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Hawaii

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RegionenKapitel 7: Hawaii
Regionen · Kapitel 7

Hawaii

Hawaii is the most exotic part of the USA — a volcanic archipelago in the middle of the Pacific, 3,800 km from the mainland, where Polynesian culture meets American lifestyle. Six main islands, each with its own character: from urban Waikiki on Oahu to the dramatic cliffs of Kauai and the active volcanoes on Big Island. Here, people surf, snorkel, hike, and eat Poke — all under a rainbow that appears so often it's depicted on license plates.

Oahu — The Heart of Hawaii

Oahu is the third-largest but by far the most populous island in Hawaii — about 70% of the state's residents live here. The capital Honolulu is a modern city with skyscrapers, top-notch restaurants, and the world-famous Waikiki Beach. But Oahu is much more than Waikiki: The North Shore offers world-class surfing, Pearl Harbor is a moving historical site, and the interior surprises with lush green mountains and hidden hiking trails.

Waikiki Beach & Honolulu

Waikiki is Hawaii's tourist epicenter — a 3 km long sandy beach lined with high-rise hotels, shopping malls, and the iconic view of Diamond Head in the background. Yes, it's touristy. Yes, it's crowded. And yes, it's still beautiful — the warm, turquoise water, the gentle waves (perfect for beginner surfers), and the sunset over the Pacific are simply magical.

In Honolulu itself: The Bishop Museum is the best museum for Polynesian and Hawaiian culture in the world. The Iolani Palace is the only royal palace on American soil — here the Hawaiian monarchy ruled until its overthrow in 1893. And the Diamond Head crater offers a 360° view over Waikiki and the Pacific after a short, steep hike (2.6 km, 1–1.5 hours, $5 entry + $10 parking).

Pearl Harbor

On December 7, 1941, Japan attacked the naval base Pearl Harbor — the attack that brought the USA into World War II. Today, Pearl Harbor is a National Historic Landmark with several memorials:

  • USS Arizona Memorial — A white monument that hovers over the sunken battleship, where 1,177 sailors still rest. Free tickets, but limited — reserve online (recreation.gov), often booked weeks in advance.
  • USS Missouri — The battleship where Japan signed the surrender in 1945. Tours of the ship: $35.
  • Pearl Harbor Aviation Museum — In the original hangars with bullet holes from 1941. Fascinating even for non-military fans: $26.

North Shore

In winter (November–February), the largest waves in the world roll in at the North Shore — 10–15 m high monsters at Banzai Pipeline, Sunset Beach, and Waimea Bay, ridden only by the best surfers in the world. In summer, the same beaches transform into calm, crystal-clear lagoons for snorkeling. The surfer town Haleiwa has charming shrimp trucks (the Giovanni's Shrimp Truck garlic shrimp are legendary, $14), shaved ice stands, and surf shops.

The Banzai Pipeline is the mecca of surfing — the Triple Crown of Surfing takes place here in winter. Even without surfing yourself: Watching the waves from the road is spectacular.

Tipp

Kailua Beach on the Windward side (east coast) of Oahu is the most beautiful beach on the island — powder-white sand, turquoise water, hardly any tourists compared to Waikiki. 30 minutes from Honolulu via the Pali Highway, which is a sight in itself (viewpoint at Nuuanu Pali Lookout!).

Maui — The Magical Island

Maui is often referred to as the most versatile and romantic island of Hawaii — and rightly so. On an area smaller than Saarland, you find: golden sandy beaches in the west, the over 3,000 m high Haleakalā volcano, the legendary Road to Hana through tropical rainforest, and some of the best snorkeling spots in the world. Maui is Hawaii's honeymoon island — but also a paradise for adventurers.

Road to Hana

The Hana Highway (Highway 360) is one of the most exciting roads in the world: 84 km, 620 curves and 59 one-lane bridges along Maui's northeast coast. The drive takes at least 3 hours (without stops), but plan for a whole day — the stops are the real experience:

  • Twin Falls (km 3) — Easy 15-minute hike to two waterfalls with swimming pools.
  • Keanae Peninsula (km 27) — A volcanic promontory with taro fields and a view of the wild coast. The roadside banana bread stand is legendary.
  • Wai'anapanapa State Park (km 50) — Hawaii's most famous black sand beach, surrounded by lava cliffs and tropical greenery. Reservation and park fee ($5) required.
  • Hana — The sleepy town at the end of the road. Hamoa Beach (James Michener called it the most beautiful beach in the world) is less crowded than the west coast.
  • Pools of Oheo (Seven Sacred Pools) (km 68, beyond Hana) — Tiered freshwater pools flowing into the sea, in Haleakalā National Park. Entry $30 per car.

Haleakalā

The Haleakalā (3,055 m) is a massive shield volcano, whose crater is 11 km long, 3 km wide, and 800 m deep — "large enough to fit all of Manhattan," as Mark Twain wrote. The sunrise at the summit is a nearly spiritual experience: You stand above the clouds and watch as the sun slowly bathes the crater in gold and red. Reservation required (recreation.gov, $1 per car, plus $30 park entry, book at least 60 days in advance). It is freezing at the top (often below 0°C at sunrise) — warm clothing is absolutely necessary!

Beaches & Snorkeling

Maui's west coast offers the best beaches and snorkeling spots:

  • Ka'anapali Beach — 5 km of dream beach with the famous Black Rock, from which a cliff diver jumps every evening at sunset (Hawaiian tradition).
  • Molokini Crater — A half-submerged volcanic crater off the south coast with crystal-clear water and over 250 fish species. Only accessible by boat (snorkeling tours from $80). Book early in the morning before the wind picks up.
  • Honolua Bay — Maui's best snorkeling spot, freely accessible. Marine reserve with turtles, rays, and tropical fish.

Tipp

Drive the Road to Hana in one direction only (out via the north coast, back via the south coast via Piilani Highway — rental companies often prohibit this, but the road is passable and spectacular). This way, you avoid oncoming traffic on the one-lane bridges. Start before 7 a.m.!

Achtung

Whale watching season on Maui is from December to April — humpback whales come to calve in the warm waters. Visible from the coast, but boat tours (from $45) bring you up close. It is one of Hawaii's most impressive natural spectacles.

Big Island — Volcanoes & Contrasts

Big Island (officially: Hawai'i Island) is the largest and youngest island of the archipelago — and geologically the most active. Here stands the Kīlauea, one of the most active volcanoes on earth, and the Mauna Kea (4,207 m), the highest mountain in the Pacific (and measured from the sea floor, the tallest mountain in the world with over 10,000 m!). Big Island is so diverse that it contains all the Earth's climate zones — from tropical rainforest to desert to snow on the peaks.

Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park

The Volcanoes National Park on the southeast coast is the highlight of any Big Island trip. Here you experience active volcanism up close:

  • Kīlauea Crater (Halema'uma'u) — The main crater of Kīlauea has completely changed after the dramatic eruption of 2018. Whether you see glowing lava depends on the current volcanic activity — check the park's website (nps.gov/havo) before visiting. But even without lava: The steaming, sulfur-yellow crater is impressive.
  • Crater Rim Drive — The road around the crater with several viewpoints and hiking trails.
  • Thurston Lava Tube — A walkable lava tunnel formed during a previous eruption. 500 m long, illuminated, fascinating.
  • Chain of Craters Road — 30 km road through cooled lava fields to the coast. At the end: the Hōlei Sea Arch, a natural rock arch over the sea.

Mauna Kea

The drive to the summit of Mauna Kea (4,207 m) is a surreal experience: You start at the beach at 30°C and stand 2 hours later above the clouds at 0°C, surrounded by the largest observatories in the world. The observatories at the summit (13 telescopes from 11 countries) use the extremely clear, dry air — the best place in the world for astronomical observations. The sunset at the summit is surreal: The cloud cover below you turns into an orange sea.

The summit road requires a 4WD vehicle. Rental companies usually prohibit the drive — specialized tour providers (from $200) are the best option. At 4,207 m altitude, the air is thin — people with heart or lung problems should not drive to the summit.

Kona Coast

The sunny west coast around Kailua-Kona is the tourist center: Here are the best beaches (Hapuna Beach and Mauna Kea Beach are among Hawaii's most beautiful), the best snorkeling spots (Kealakekua Bay, where Captain Cook was killed in 1779 — only accessible by kayak or boat), and the famous Kona coffee plantations inland (free tastings!). Big Island produces the only commercial coffee in the USA.

Tipp

On Big Island, the two sides of the island are completely different: Kona (west) is sunny and dry, Hilo (east) is the rainiest place in the USA. Plan beach days for Kona and volcano/rainforest days for the Hilo side. You need a rental car — there is no public transportation.

Kauai — The Garden Island

Kauai is the oldest and greenest of the Hawaiian main islands — and perhaps the most beautiful. Over millions of years, erosion has shaped the volcano into a landscape more breathtaking than anything Hollywood could imagine (and indeed more has been filmed here than on any other island: "Jurassic Park," "Avatar," "Pirates of the Caribbean," "South Pacific"). The Mount Waialeale in the center of the island is one of the rainiest places on earth with over 11,000 mm of rainfall per year — which explains why Kauai is so incredibly green.

Nā Pali Coast

The Nā Pali Coast on the northwest coast is Hawaii's most dramatic landscape: 27 km of rugged cliffs interspersed with tropical valleys, rising up to 1,200 m vertically from the sea. There is no road — the coast is only accessible on foot, by boat, or by helicopter.

  • Kalalau Trail — The legendary 35 km hike (round trip) along the coast to the remote Kalalau Beach. Permit required (gohaena.com, $35/person/night, often booked months in advance). The first 3.2 km to Hanakapi'ai Beach are possible without a permit and give a taste.
  • Boat tours — Catamaran tours along the coast (from $130) with snorkeling stops and dolphin sightings. Only possible in summer (May–September), in winter the sea is too rough.
  • Helicopter flights — The most spectacular way to see the Nā Pali Coast and Waimea Canyon (from $250 per person, 45–60 minutes). Expensive, but a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Waimea Canyon

Mark Twain called it the "Grand Canyon of the Pacific" — and that's hardly an exaggeration. Waimea Canyon is 16 km long, 1.6 km wide, and over 1,000 m deep, with layers in red, green, brown, and purple. The Waimea Canyon Drive leads to several viewpoints, the best being the Waimea Canyon Lookout. At the end of the road: the Kalalau Lookout with a breathtaking view of the Nā Pali Coast from above (if the clouds allow — come in the morning for the best chances).

Beaches

Kauai's beaches are less developed than those on Maui or Oahu — and that's exactly what makes their charm. Poipu Beach on the south coast is the most reliable sunny beach (the south coast is drier). Hanalei Bay on the north coast is one of the most beautiful beaches in the world — a perfect crescent bay with green mountains in the background. And Tunnels Beach (Makua Beach) near Haena offers the best snorkeling on the island.

Tipp

Kauai has no building taller than a coconut palm — an unwritten rule that has preserved the island from disfigurement. The island has only one road around the coast, ending in the north and west (Nā Pali Coast is impassable). Plan your day trips accordingly.

Which Island Suits You?

The most common question when planning a trip to Hawaii: Which island should I visit? Here is an honest overview:

Oahu — For First-Timers & City Lovers

Pro: The full Hawaii experience on one island — Waikiki, Pearl Harbor, North Shore. Best infrastructure, cheapest hotels, best nightlife, best food. Most direct flights from Europe. Con: Most touristy, most densely populated. Waikiki can be overwhelming.

Maui — For Couples & Versatility

Pro: The most balanced island — great beaches, Road to Hana, Haleakalā, whale watching. Luxurious resorts, romantic atmosphere. Con: More expensive than Oahu, rental car required, the Road to Hana is exhausting.

Big Island — For Adventurers & Nature Lovers

Pro: Active volcanoes, black sand beaches, stargazing on Mauna Kea, Kona coffee. The most diverse landscape. Con: Huge (two-hour drive from Kona to Hilo), beaches not as spectacular as on Maui, long drive times.

Kauai — For Nature Purists & Hikers

Pro: The most dramatic landscape (Nā Pali Coast, Waimea Canyon), least developed, greenest, quietest. Con: Rain (especially north coast), limited nightlife and restaurant options, fewer beaches for swimming.

Our Recommendation

First visit (10–14 days): Oahu (3–4 days) + Maui (5–6 days). Second visit: Big Island + Kauai. Honeymoon: Only Maui (7 days). Adventure: Big Island + Kauai. Only one week: Maui or Oahu, depending on interest. Inter-island flights with Hawaiian Airlines or Southwest cost $50–150 and take 30–45 minutes.

Surfing & Snorkeling

Hawaii is the birthplace of surfing — the ancient Hawaiians called it "he'e nalu" (wave sliding) and it was a sport of kings. Today, Hawaii remains the mecca of surfing and simultaneously one of the best snorkeling areas in the world.

Surfing

Beginners: The best spots for beginners are Waikiki Beach (Oahu) — the gentle, long waves are perfect for learning. Surf lessons are available at every beach stand (2-hour group lessons from $80, private lessons from $150). Also Lahaina on Maui and Poipu Beach on Kauai are suitable for beginners.

Advanced: The North Shore of Oahu is the ultimate — Pipeline (the most perfect tube in the world), Sunset Beach, and Waimea Bay offer waves of 4–15 meters high in winter (November–February). But beware: These waves are life-threatening for the inexperienced. On Maui, Jaws (Pe'ahi) is one of the largest big-wave spots in the world — only accessible by jet ski and only for professionals.

Snorkeling

Hawaii's reefs are home to over 680 fish species, 30% of which are found nowhere else in the world. The best snorkeling spots:

  • Hanauma Bay (Oahu) — An extinct volcanic crater filled with seawater. Over 400 fish species in crystal-clear water. Reservation required, entry $25, closed on Tuesdays.
  • Molokini Crater (Maui) — Half-submerged crater with visibility up to 45 m. Only accessible by boat.
  • Kealakekua Bay (Big Island) — Hawaii's richest reef with dolphins and manta rays. Only accessible by kayak or boat.
  • Tunnels Beach (Kauai) — Labyrinthine reef accessible directly from the beach. Green sea turtles almost guaranteed.

Manta Ray Night Snorkeling

Every evening off the Kona coast (Big Island), manta rays (wingspan up to 5 m!) come to feed at the reef. You swim with a wetsuit and snorkel on the surface, hold onto a lit platform, and watch the mantas glide directly below you through the plankton. It is one of the most unforgettable natural experiences in the world. Tours: from $100, daily from Keauhou Bay or the old airport beach.

Tipp

When snorkeling in Hawaii, only wear "reef-safe" sunscreen (without oxybenzone and octinoxate) — since 2021, chemical sunscreens that harm corals have been banned by law in Hawaii. Mineral sunscreen (zinc oxide) is the best choice.

Hawaiian Cuisine

Hawaii's cuisine is a fascinating fusion of Polynesian tradition, Japanese, Chinese, Korean, Filipino, and Portuguese influences — a reflection of the islands' immigration history. Here, you eat differently than on the mainland: fresher, more diverse, and with a love for rice, fish, and pork that permeates everything.

Poke

Poke (pronounced "Poh-keh") is Hawaii's national dish: cubes of raw Ahi tuna (or salmon, octopus, tofu), marinated in soy sauce, sesame oil, scallions, seaweed, and chili. Known as a hyped food trend on the mainland and in Europe, poke in Hawaii is everyday food — every supermarket has a poke counter with 10–20 varieties (from $12 per pound). The best poke bowls: Ono Seafood in Honolulu, Tamura's Fine Wine & Liquors on Maui (yes, a liquor store with the best poke on the island), and Suisan Fish Market in Hilo.

Plate Lunch

The Plate Lunch is Hawaii's cheapest and most filling meal: A main dish (Teriyaki Chicken, Kalbi Short Ribs, Katsu, Laulau) with two scoops of rice and one scoop of macaroni salad. Sounds simple, but it's incredibly satisfying and a real piece of Hawaiian culture. Available everywhere, from drive-ins to food trucks, for $10–15. The best: Rainbow Drive-In in Honolulu (since 1961) and Zippy's (the Hawaiian fast-food chain, an institution).

Loco Moco

Hawaii's ultimate comfort food: A hamburger patty on a bed of rice, topped with gravy and a fried egg. Invented in 1949 at Café 100 in Hilo (Big Island), where the original is still available — for under $5. Sounds inelegant, tastes heavenly.

Lūʻau

A Lūʻau is a traditional Hawaiian feast with food, music, and dance. The centerpiece is Kālua Pig — a whole pig cooked for hours in an underground oven (Imu) until the meat falls apart like butter. Other traditional dishes: Poi (purple taro mash, an acquired taste), Laulau (pork steamed in taro leaves), Haupia (coconut pudding). Tourist Lūʻaus cost $100–200 per person — the best value is offered by the Old Lahaina Lūʻau on Maui.

Shave Ice

Not to be confused with "Shaved Ice" (that's something else!) — Hawaiian Shave Ice is feather-light, paper-thin ice, topped with tropical syrups (Lilikoi/passion fruit, guava, mango, Li Hing Mui). The premium version has a scoop of ice cream or azuki beans at the bottom. The best on the islands: Matsumoto Shave Ice in Haleiwa (Oahu, since 1951) and Ululani's on Maui.

Tipp

Hawaii's food is expensive — almost everything has to be imported from the mainland. A restaurant visit quickly costs $30–50 per person. Save with plate lunches, poke from the supermarket, and the food trucks that are everywhere on the islands. Farmers markets (especially the KCC Farmers Market on Saturday in Honolulu) offer fresh tropical fruits at fair prices.

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