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Regionen · Kapitel 8

Alsace & Lorraine

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RegionenKapitel 8: Alsace & Lorraine
Regionen · Kapitel 8

Alsace & Lorraine

Alsace is one of the most fascinating regions in Europe — a narrow strip between the Rhine and the Vosges, which has switched between France and Germany over the centuries, developing a unique cultural blend. Half-timbered houses like those in picture books, one of the most beautiful wine routes in the world, tarte flambée and Gewürztraminer, Gothic cathedrals, and the most magical Christmas markets in France. In addition, the often-overlooked Lorraine with the Art Nouveau city of Metz and the Centre Pompidou.

Strasbourg★★★

Strasbourg is the capital of Alsace and the unofficial capital of Europe — home to the European Parliament, the European Court of Human Rights, and the Council of Europe. But beyond the European institutions, Strasbourg is above all one thing: one of the most beautiful and vibrant cities in France.

The entire Grande Île — the historic old town on an island in the Ill River — is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Here, half-timbered houses from the 16th and 17th centuries stand close together, crisscrossed by canals and overshadowed by the pink sandstone of the cathedral. The city has 280,000 inhabitants, including 50,000 students, giving it a youthful energy rarely found in tourist cities.

Strasbourg is also a cycling city — over 600 kilometers of bike paths make it the most bike-friendly city in France. The city center is largely car-free and can be perfectly explored on foot and by tram.

Strasbourg Cathedral (Cathédrale Notre-Dame)★★★

Place de la Cathédrale, 67000 Strasbourg
Münster: täglich 7–11:15 & 12:40–19 Uhr. Plattform: April–Sept 9:30–20 Uhr, Okt–März 10–18 Uhr.
Münster frei. Plattform 8€. Astronomische Uhr 3€.

The Strasbourg Cathedral is a masterpiece of Gothic architecture and was the tallest building in the world from 1647 to 1874, standing at 142 meters. The west facade is a marvel of stonemasonry: hundreds of figures, scenes from the Old and New Testament, delicate rosettes, and tracery, all carved from pink Vosges sandstone that glows golden, pink, or orange-red depending on the light.

Victor Hugo called the cathedral a "wonder of the colossal and the delicate." Goethe climbed the tower as a student in Strasbourg to overcome his fear of heights — and was overwhelmed.

Inside, the stained glass windows from the 12th to 14th centuries impress with their vibrant blue and red hues. The astronomical clock (1838–1843) is a mechanical marvel: every day at 12:30 PM, a figurine show begins — the twelve apostles pass by Christ, a rooster crows three times, and complex gearworks display the positions of the sun and moon, eclipses, and church holidays.

The viewing platform (66 m, 332 steps) offers a breathtaking view over the old town, the Black Forest, the Vosges, and on clear days, all the way to the Alps.

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The Astronomical Clock show (daily at 12:30 p.m.) requires a separate ticket (€3), sold from 11:30 a.m. — arrive by 11:45 a.m. at the latest, as the demand is high. Climbing the platform is especially worthwhile at sunset (last admission 45 minutes before closing). Cathedral entry: free. Platform: €8 (adults), €5 (children/students).

Petite France★★★

Petite France is the most picturesque district of Strasbourg and one of the most photographed cityscapes in Europe. The former tanner and miller district is located on an island in the Ill River and consists of perfectly preserved half-timbered houses from the 16th and 17th centuries with steep roofs, flower boxes at every window, and open tanner lofts under the gables (the so-called "drying attics" where animal hides once dried).

The Ponts Couverts (Covered Bridges) — three bridges with four medieval defense towers — mark the western entrance to the district. From the Barrage Vauban (Vauban Dam, freely accessible), the best panoramic view over Petite France, the Ponts Couverts, and the cathedral in the background can be enjoyed.

The alleys along the canals — especially the Rue du Bain-aux-Plantes — are photogenic in every season: in spring with blooming geraniums, in summer with reflections in the water, in autumn with colorful leaves, and in winter with Christmas lights.

Despite the tourist crowds, Petite France is not an open-air museum — people live here, laundry hangs in the windows, and in the morning it smells of fresh bread from the boulangerie. Those who come early (before 9 a.m.) have the alleys almost to themselves.

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A boat trip on the Ill through Petite France and around the Grande Île is the best way to discover Strasbourg. "Batorama" offers 70-minute trips with an audio guide from the Palais Rohan (€15.50 adults, €9 children, under 4 free). In high season every 15 minutes, book tickets online in advance.

Food & Drink in Strasbourg

Strasbourg is one of the culinary capitals of France — with a unique cuisine that combines French finesse and Alsatian heartiness.

Winstub S'Münsterstüwel · 8 Place du Marché-aux-Cochons-de-Lait
The most authentic winstub in the old town. Wood-paneled dining room from the 17th century. Tarte flambée (from €10), choucroute garnie (sauerkraut with sausage and meat, €18), baeckeoffe (stew with three types of meat, €22). Alsatian wines by the glass from €4.
€€ · Tue–Sat 12–2 p.m. & 6:30–10 p.m.

Au Pont Saint-Martin · 13–15 Rue des Moulins (Petite France)
Dreamy terrace by the canal in Petite France. Regional cuisine at a high level. Lunch menu €24 (starter + main course + dessert). Preselkopf (pork head jelly), Coq au Riesling, Gugelhupf as dessert. Evening à la carte main course €20–30.
€€ · Daily 12–2:30 p.m. & 7–10:30 p.m.

La Cloche à Fromage · 27 Rue des Tonneliers
The largest cheese buffet in France — over 200 types of cheese under a giant glass dome. Fondue from €22, raclette from €24, cheese platter for 2 from €28. A paradise for cheese lovers.
€€€ · Mon–Sat 12–2 p.m. & 7–11 p.m.

Maison Kammerzell · 16 Place de la Cathédrale
The most famous half-timbered house in Strasbourg (1427), right on the cathedral square. Touristy, but the building with its 75 carved window posts is a work of art. Choucroute royale €26, foie gras maison €24. Reservation recommended.
€€€ · Daily 12–2:30 p.m. & 7–11 p.m.

Colmar★★★

Colmar is the most picturesque city in Alsace — and that means something in a region full of picture-book towns. The third-largest city in Alsace (about 70,000 inhabitants) survived World War II almost unscathed and therefore has one of the best-preserved historic city centers in Europe: over 1,000 half-timbered houses from the 13th to 17th centuries in vibrant pink, blue, yellow, and green.

The heart of the city is "Little Venice" (Petite Venise) — a district along the La Lauch canal with pastel-colored half-timbered houses reflecting in the water, flower boxes on every balcony, and tiny bridges. Boat trips through Little Venice (about 30 min., €8) are kitschy-beautiful and still worth it.

Colmar is also a first-class cultural city. The Musée Unterlinden in the former Dominican convent houses the Isenheim Altarpiece by Matthias Grünewald (circa 1512–1516) — one of the most harrowing and expressive works of Western painting. The crucifixion scene with its realism and emotional impact alone is worth the trip to Colmar.

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Colmar has one of the driest climates in France (less rain than Nice!) thanks to the shielding by the Vosges. The city is ideal as a base for the Alsace Wine Route — all wine villages are within a 30-minute drive. Hotels in the old town from about €85/night.

Sights in Colmar

Musée Unterlinden & Isenheim Altarpiece

The most important museum in Alsace, expanded in 2015 with a modern extension by Basel architects Herzog & de Meuron. In addition to the Isenheim Altarpiece — whose folding wings display three different pictorial programs — the museum houses an excellent collection from the Middle Ages to modern times: Cranach, Holbein, Schongauer, Picasso, Monet.

€13 (adults), under 18 free. Wed–Mon 9 a.m.–6 p.m. (Thu until 8 p.m.). Closed on Tuesdays.

Little Venice (Petite Venise)

The tanner's district along the Lauch: Quai de la Poissonnerie (former fish market), the pretty Rue des Tanneurs and the view from the Pont Saint-Pierre on the row of half-timbered houses are the highlights. Boat trip: €8/person, departure at Rue de la Herse, March–October.

Old Town Walking Tour

Start at the Place de la Cathédrale (Collegiate Church of Saint-Martin, 13th century, with glazed roof tiles), continue past the Koïfhus (Old Customs House, 1480), the oldest public building in the city, to the Pfister House (1537, magnificent facade painting), then through the Rue des Marchands and the Rue des Têtes (with the famous House of Heads — 106 masks and heads on the facade). Duration: about 2 hours.

Bartholdi Museum

Colmar is the birthplace of Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi, the creator of the Statue of Liberty. His birthplace (30 Rue des Marchands) is now a museum with models, designs, and personal items. €6.

Food & Drink in Colmar

Winstub Brenner · 1 Rue de Turenne
Cozy winstub with a wood-paneled room. Tarte flambée "gratinée" (with Munster cheese) €12, Coq au Riesling €19, Tarte aux Myrtilles (blueberry tart) €8. Excellent Alsatian wines by the glass.
€€ · Thu–Mon 12–2 p.m. & 6:30–9:30 p.m.

Chez Hansi · 23 Rue des Marchands
Named after the Alsatian illustrator Hansi, whose nostalgic drawings shaped the image of Alsace. Traditional cuisine: head cheese €11, Baeckeoffe €22, Gugelhupf with cream €9. Touristy, but authentic cuisine.
€€ · Daily 12–2 p.m. & 7–10 p.m.

JY'S · 17 Rue de la Poissonnerie
Michelin-starred restaurant by Jean-Yves Schillinger. Creative French-Alsatian cuisine in a modern setting right in Little Venice. Lunch menu from €45, dinner menu from €85. Reservation absolutely necessary.
€€€ · Tue–Sat 12–1:30 p.m. & 7–9 p.m.

Marché couvert · Rue des Écoles
Covered market: cheese, charcuterie, pretzels, kougelhopf. Thu 8 a.m.–6 p.m., Sat 7 a.m.–5 p.m. Perfect for a picnic by the canal.

Alsace Wine Route★★★

The Route des Vins d'Alsace is the oldest wine route in France (since 1953) and one of the most beautiful in the world. Over 170 kilometers, it winds from Marlenheim near Strasbourg to Thann near Mulhouse along the foot of the Vosges — through vineyards that climb the slopes like a carpet, past over 70 wine villages with half-timbered houses, castle ruins, and stork nests on the roofs.

Alsace produces almost exclusively white wines — and at a world-class level. The seven approved grape varieties are:

Riesling — the king of Alsatian wines: dry, mineral, long-lasting. Quite different from the German Riesling style.

Gewürztraminer — aromatic, floral, with aromas of lychee, rose, and spices. Perfect with spicy food and Munster cheese.

Pinot Gris — full-bodied, smoky, with honey and nut aromas. Excellent with foie gras.

Muscat d'Alsace — dry (unlike other Muscats!), grape-fresh, ideal as an aperitif.

Pinot Blanc — fresh, uncomplicated, the everyday wine of Alsace.

Sylvaner — light, sprightly, at its best with a fine herbal spice.

Pinot Noir — the only red wine of Alsace, usually light and fruity.

The top wines bear the designation Grand Cru — there are 51 Grand Cru sites in Alsace, each with its own terroir character. Vendanges Tardives (late harvest) and Sélection de Grains Nobles (noble selection) are the sweet crown jewels, ranking among the greatest dessert wines in the world.

Practical tips: Most wineries offer free tastings (Dégustation gratuite) — just ring the doorbell. Buy at least one bottle as a thank you. Prices: good Riesling from €8, Grand Cru from €15, Vendanges Tardives from €25/bottle.

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The most beautiful section of the wine route lies between Ribeauvillé and Colmar (about 30 km) — here the prettiest villages line up like pearls: Riquewihr, Hunawihr, Kaysersberg, Eguisheim. This route can also be excellently cycled (e-bike recommended due to the hills, rental in Colmar from €25/day).

Riquewihr & Kaysersberg★★★

Riquewihr and Kaysersberg are the two most beautiful wine villages in Alsace — and strong contenders for the most beautiful villages in France overall. Both are members of the association "Les Plus Beaux Villages de France".

Riquewihr★★★

68340 Riquewihr

Riquewihr is a fully preserved wine village from the 16th century, nestled in vineyards and surrounded by a medieval city wall. The only main street — the Rue du Général de Gaulle — is so picturesque that it is said to have served as the model for the village in Disney's "Beauty and the Beast."

Half-timbered houses in all colors, wrought-iron inn signs, cobbled courtyards with vines, the Dolder (gate tower from 1291, now a museum, 4€), and everywhere the scent of fresh Kougelhopf. Riquewihr is touristy, yes — but it's simply too beautiful to miss.

Wineries in Riquewihr:

Hugel & Fils — Family-owned since 1639, one of the most renowned Alsatian wine houses. Tasting in the historic cellar (free), excellent Gewürztraminer and Riesling Grand Cru Schoenenbourg. Bottles from 12€.

Domaine Dopff "Au Moulin" — Known for Crémant d'Alsace (Alsatian sparkling wine, from 9€/bottle). Free tasting, large salesroom.

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Come in the morning before 10 a.m. or in the evening after 5 p.m. — during the day, tour bus groups crowd through the narrow main alley. The vineyards directly behind the village are freely accessible: the Sentier Viticole (wine trail, 1.5 km, 45 min.) offers wonderful views over the village and the Rhine plain to the Black Forest.

Kaysersberg★★★

68240 Kaysersberg-Vignoble

Kaysersberg was voted France's favorite village in 2017 (Émission "Le Village préféré des Français") — and rightly so. The town on the Weiss River has everything that makes Alsace special: a castle ruin on the hill (freely accessible, fantastic view), a fortified bridge from the 15th century, half-timbered houses with geraniums, artisanal bakeries, and excellent wineries.

Kaysersberg is also the birthplace of Albert Schweitzer (1875–1965), the doctor, theologian, musician, and Nobel Peace Prize laureate. His birthplace at Rue du Général de Gaulle 126 is a small museum (2.50€).

The Christmas market in Kaysersberg (last weekend of November until shortly before Christmas) is considered one of the most authentic in Alsace — smaller and less commercial than Strasbourg or Colmar, with artisanal products and Vin chaud (mulled wine) from local wines.

Winery tip: Domaine Weinbach (former Capuchin monastery, Grand Cru sites Schlossberg and Furstentum) — one of the best wineries in Alsace. Tasting by appointment, 10€ for 6 wines.

Metz & Centre Pompidou★★

Metz is the capital of Lorraine and one of the most underrated cities in France. With 3,000 years of history, a spectacular Gothic cathedral, the futuristic Centre Pompidou-Metz, and one of the largest preserved Art Nouveau districts in Europe, the city deserves far more than just being a stopover on the way to Paris.

Metz is located at the confluence of the Moselle and Seille rivers and is a city of water — canals, islands, and parks crisscross the center. The old town on the Île du Petit-Saulcy and around the cathedral has a unique character: bright Jaumont limestone (the "golden stone of Lorraine") gives the buildings a warm, honey-colored tone.

Cathedral Saint-Étienne★★★

Place de la Cathédrale, 57000 Metz
Täglich 8–18 Uhr (Sommer bis 19 Uhr)
Frei

The cathedral of Metz has the largest stained glass area of any Gothic cathedral worldwide — 6,500 m² of stained glass, earning it the nickname "Lantern of God" (Lanterne du Bon Dieu). The windows come from all eras: from the 14th century to Marc Chagall, who designed several windows from 1958–1968. His brightly blue and red windows in the north transept — scenes from the Old Testament — are among the most beautiful modern church windows in the world.

The nave reaches a height of 41.41 meters — one of the highest in France. The overall impression of the light flooding through the colored windows is overwhelming.

Free entry. Daily 8 a.m.–6 p.m. (summer until 7 p.m.). Guided tours in German and French through the tourist office (€8).

Centre Pompidou-Metz★★

1 Parvis des Droits de l'Homme, 57000 Metz
Mi–Mo 10–18 Uhr (Do bis 20 Uhr). Dienstags geschlossen.
12€ (Erwachsene), unter 26 frei. Donnerstag ab 17 Uhr: 8€.

The first "branch" of the Paris Centre Pompidou opened in Metz in 2010 — a spectacular building by Japanese architects Shigeru Ban and Jean de Gastines. The hexagonal roof made of wood and Teflon membrane resembles a Chinese bamboo hat and is a masterpiece of engineering.

The museum features temporary exhibitions with works from the Centre Pompidou's collection (over 120,000 works, the largest collection of modern art in Europe). Three large gallery rooms, each with 1,000 m², provide space for ambitious exhibitions. The quality varies — check the current program in advance.

Even if the current exhibition doesn't convince: The building itself is worth a visit. From the rooftop terrace (freely accessible), there is a beautiful view over Metz and the train station.

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The TGV station Metz is right next to the Centre Pompidou — ideal for a day trip from Paris (1:25 hrs, from €29) or Strasbourg (1:15 hrs, from €15). On Thursdays, the museum is open until 8 p.m. and cheaper from 5 p.m. (€8 instead of €12).

Quartier Impérial

The Imperial Quarter (Quartier Impérial, UNESCO World Heritage candidate) was built between 1902 and 1918 when Metz belonged to the German Empire. Kaiser Wilhelm II wanted to make the city the showcase of the Reichsland Alsace-Lorraine and commissioned the best architects with representative buildings.

The result is a unique ensemble of Wilhelminian neo-Baroque, Art Nouveau, and Neo-Renaissance: the monumental Metz-Ville train station (1908, entirely made of granite), the Main Post Office (Neo-Romanesque), the Governor's Palace, and numerous residential buildings with Art Nouveau facades. An architectural history walk through the district takes about 1 hour.

Christmas Markets in Alsace★★★

The Alsatian Christmas markets are among the oldest and most beautiful in the world. The tradition dates back to 1570, when the "Christkindelsmärik" in Strasbourg was first mentioned in a document. Today, the entire Alsace transforms into a Christmas wonderland from late November to late December — over 100 places host markets, from the big city to the tiny wine village.

Strasbourg: Capitale de Noël

Strasbourg's Christmas market is the most famous in France and one of the largest in Europe. Over 300 chalets are spread across 12 locations in the old town. The main market on the Place Broglie (since 1570) offers handicrafts and mulled wine, the market on the Place de la Cathédrale shines under the giant Christmas tree (over 30 m high), and the Place du Château hosts the "OFF" market with alternative crafts and organic products.

Last Friday in November to December 24. Daily 11 a.m.–8 p.m. (Fri–Sat until 9 p.m.). Free entry.

Colmar: Five Christmas Markets

Colmar distributes its markets across five picturesque squares: Place des Dominicains (handicrafts), Place de l'Ancienne Douane (culinary), Place Jeanne d'Arc (children's market with ice rink), Petite Venise (by the canal, especially atmospheric), and Place de la Cathédrale (gourmet market).

Last Thursday in November to December 29. Daily 10 a.m.–7 p.m. (Fri–Sat until 9 p.m.). Free entry.

Kaysersberg

Small, authentic, magical. The market takes place only on the four Advent weekends (Fri–Sun), making it more exclusive and less crowded. Local craftsmen, genuine Alsatian products, vin chaud from their own production. The castle ruins above the village are illuminated.

Eguisheim

The circular village (one of the most beautiful in France) transforms its concentric streets into a Christmas market that looks like a nativity scene. Half-timbered houses, a nativity scene with live animals, Bredle bakeries (Alsatian Christmas cookies). Three Advent weekends.

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The Christmas markets are most atmospheric during the week and in the evenings after 5 p.m., when the lights come on and the day tourists leave. Weekends (especially the 2nd and 3rd Advent) are extremely crowded. Stay overnight in Alsace instead of a day trip — the illuminated villages at night are incomparable. Hotels are in high demand during the Christmas season: book at least 2–3 months in advance. Prices rise by 30–50%.

Alsatian Cuisine★★★

Alsatian cuisine is one of the most distinctive and hearty regional cuisines in France — a unique fusion of French finesse and Germanic heartiness. Here, you don't nibble elegantly; you eat. The "winstub" (Alsatian wine tavern) is the institution: wood-paneled dining rooms with checkered tablecloths, serving tarte flambée, choucroute, and baeckeoffe.

The Great Classics

Tarte flambée (Flammkuchen)
The national dish of Alsace: paper-thin, crispy dough topped with crème fraîche, onions, and bacon, baked in a wood-fired oven. The "nature" (classic) is unbeatable, the "gratinée" (with Munster cheese) a hearty upgrade, the "forestière" (with mushrooms) autumnally aromatic. In a real winstub, tarte flambée is served on a wooden board and eaten à discrétion — you order as many as you can manage. Price: €10–14/piece.

Choucroute garnie (Sauerkraut)
Perhaps the most famous Alsatian dish: mild sauerkraut braised in Riesling, garnished with a sumptuous selection of meats and sausages: smoked pork, Strasbourg knackwurst, Montbéliard sausage, bacon, Kasseler, potatoes. A portion of choucroute royale (the large version) is a mountain on the plate and satisfies two people. It is accompanied by Riesling or Sylvaner. Price: €18–26.

Baeckeoffe
The "baker's oven" — a stew of three types of meat (pork, beef, lamb), potatoes, and vegetables, marinated in white wine and slow-cooked in a clay pot. Traditionally, women brought the prepared pot to the baker on washday, who cooked it in his oven after baking bread. Available in every good winstub today (usually only by pre-order). Price: €20–28.

Kougelhopf (Gugelhupf)
The iconic Alsatian yeast cake in its characteristic fluted shape: airy, buttery, slightly sweet, with raisins (soaked in Kirschwasser) and almonds. Every bakery has its own recipe. There is also a savory version with bacon and nuts. A whole kougelhopf costs €8–14 in the boulangerie. No Alsatian breakfast without kougelhopf.

Gewürztraminer — the wine for food
The most aromatic wine of Alsace: intensely floral with aromas of lychee, rose, mango, and spices. With Munster cheese, it is the perfect combination — the sweetness of the wine balances the intensity of the cheese. Also excellent with spicy Asian cuisine, foie gras, and desserts. Glass from €5 in the winstub, bottle from €9 at the winery.

Other Specialties

Munster cheese — soft cheese with a washed rind, intense in smell, surprisingly mild in taste. From the Vosges, served with caraway and boiled potatoes. From €3/piece at the market.

Pretzels (Bretzels) — larger and softer than Bavarian pretzels, with coarse salt. Fresh from the boulangerie from €1.

Spätzle — the Alsatian version of Swabian egg noodles, often served as a side dish to meat dishes.

Foie gras — Strasbourg is considered the birthplace of foie gras (goose liver pâté). Jean-Pierre Clause created the famous "pâté de foie gras en croûte" here in 1780. Ethically controversial, culinary undeniably excellent. Can from €15 at the market.

Bredle — Alsatian Christmas cookies in dozens of varieties: butterbredele, cinnamon stars, anisbredele, spritzbredele. Available in every bakery and at every Christmas market during Advent. Bag from €5.

Tipp

The best way to experience Alsatian cuisine is an evening in a real winstub — not a Michelin-starred restaurant, but a wood-paneled wine tavern with checkered tablecloths and a menu that has remained the same for decades. Order tarte flambée "à discrétion" (flat rate, about €16), along with a carafe of Riesling (0.5l from €9). Reservation on weekends is absolutely necessary, especially in Strasbourg and Colmar.

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