Nature & Geology

Island of Fire

Iceland lies on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, exactly where the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates drift apart — 2 cm per year. Additionally, the island sits above a mantle plume (hotspot), which pushes hot magma up from 2,900 km deep. This double geological peculiarity makes Iceland one of the most volcanically active places on Earth — and the only place where the Mid-Atlantic Ridge is above water.

The Main Volcanoes

Geothermal Energy — Iceland's Superpower

The volcanic activity has a huge advantage: Iceland generates 100% of its electricity from renewable sources — 73% from hydropower and 27% from geothermal energy. Hot water is pumped directly from the earth and heats 90% of all buildings in Iceland. Heating costs are minimal (about 100€/month for an apartment), and greenhouses near Reykjavík even grow bananas, tomatoes, and cucumbers thanks to geothermal energy.

The Hellisheiði power plant near Reykjavík is the third largest geothermal power plant in the world and uses the heat of the Hengill volcanic system. It produces 303 MW of electricity and 133 MW of heat — enough for all of Reykjavík. Visitors can visit the attached museum (Geothermal Exhibition, free of charge).

Europe's Largest Glacier

About 11% of Iceland's land area is covered by glaciers — a proportion that decreases every year. Iceland is the only European country with glaciers of this magnitude.

The Main Glaciers

Sad Reality: Iceland's glaciers are rapidly shrinking. The Okjökull (Ok Glacier) was the first Icelandic glacier to be officially declared "dead" in 2019 — it no longer had enough mass to move as a glacier. A memorial plaque on the mountain bears the inscription "A Letter to the Future" and addresses future generations: "Ok is the first Icelandic glacier to lose its status as a glacier. In the next 200 years, all our glaciers are expected to suffer the same fate."

Scientists estimate that with continued warming, all Icelandic glaciers could disappear by 2200–2300. For a country named after ice, this is an existential dimension.

Northern Lights — When and Where?

The Aurora Borealis (northern lights) is for many THE reason to visit Iceland in winter. Here are the key facts:

• Season: September to March (the darker, the better). The best months: October, February, and March (statistically clearest skies)
• Conditions: Three things must come together: Darkness (no moon, no city lights), clear skies (no clouds), and solar activity (KP index from 2–3, ideally from 5)
• Forecast: The website vedur.is (under "Aurora forecast") and the app My Aurora Forecast show the KP index and cloud cover — the green areas on the map are cloud-free
• Best Places: Away from city lights: Þingvellir, the South Coast, Mývatn (North Iceland). Also possible directly from the hot pots of the Mývatn Nature Baths or the Blue Lagoon
• Colors: Most commonly green (oxygen at 100–300 km altitude), less often violet/red (nitrogen) and blue. Often more gray-greenish to the naked eye — the camera (long exposure!) shows the colors more intensely
• Tours: Northern lights tours from Reykjavík (3–5h, from 7,990 ISK/53€) drive to cloud-free areas. No guarantee, but high expertise of the guides

Puffins — Iceland's Favorites

The puffin (Icelandic: Lundi) is Iceland's unofficial national bird. About 60% of the world's population (approx. 8–10 million breeding pairs) nest on Iceland's cliffs, especially:

• Westman Islands (Vestmannaeyjar): The largest colony — millions of birds. Accessible by ferry from Landeyjahöfn (35 min.)
• Látrabjarg (Westfjords): Europe's westernmost point and spectacular 14 km long cliffs. The birds are extremely tame here
• Dyrhólaey (South Coast): Best accessible from the mainland. Puffins in the cliffs directly below the lighthouse
• Borgarfjörður Eystri (East Iceland): Small but very close colony. Viewing platform within arm's reach of the birds
• Grímsey (North Iceland): The only Icelandic island on the Arctic Circle. Puffins, midnight sun, and almost nothing else

The birds are at their breeding sites from May to mid-August. They spend the winter on the open North Atlantic and only come ashore to breed. With their colorful beaks (which fade in winter!), clumsy waddling gait, and frantic wing flapping (they must flap 400 times per minute to stay airborne!), they are irresistible.

Puffins as food? Yes, in Iceland puffins are traditionally eaten — especially on the Westman Islands, where they are caught with nets (an age-old method). The meat is reminiscent of game. For many visitors an ethical dilemma, for Icelanders a tradition. The population is carefully monitored, and hunting is suspended when numbers are low.

Whales

In the waters around Iceland, there are 23 whale species:

Whaling: Iceland is one of the few countries still conducting commercial whaling — though increasingly controversial. In 2023, the hunt for fin whales was temporarily suspended after an animal welfare debate, and more and more Icelanders (especially the younger generation) support ending whaling. The whale-watching industry is already significantly more economically important than whaling.

Icelandic Horse — Five Gaits

The Icelandic horse is a unique breed that has been bred in complete isolation for over 1,000 years. In 982, the Alþingi passed a law prohibiting the import of horses to Iceland — this law still applies today! An Icelandic horse that leaves the island may never return, even if it wins an international championship.

The horses master five gaits (most horse breeds only three or four):

1. Walk (Fetgangur)
2. Trot (Brokk)
3. Canter (Stökk)
4. Tölt — the most famous gait: An extremely comfortable four-beat gait where the rider sits almost motionless in the saddle while the horse gallops at high speed. It's like sitting on a sofa that moves forward
5. Pace (Skeið) — a fast two-beat gait where the legs on the same side move forward simultaneously. Not all Icelandic horses master this gait, and it is considered the "royal discipline"

Icelandic horses are small (130–145 cm), robust, weatherproof, and incredibly sure-footed. Riding tours are offered all over the island — from one-hour rides (from 9,000 ISK/60€) to multi-day herd treks through the highlands.

Arctic Fox

The Arctic fox (Alopex lagopus) is Iceland's only native land mammal — it was here before the Vikings, probably having migrated over the ice of the last ice age. Best observed in the Hornstrandir Nature Reserve in the Westfjords (they are extremely tame here) and at Jökulsárlón. The foxes change to white fur in winter, brown in summer — perfect camouflage.