The Istrian Hinterland
This is where the soul of Istria lies. While the coast booms, time ticks more slowly in the hinterland. Medieval hilltop villages perch above a sea of olive groves, vineyards, and oak forests. The air smells of earth and herbs, and Europe's most valuable truffles grow in the forests.
The hinterland is why connoisseurs call Istria the "Croatian Tuscany" — only with fewer tourists, lower prices, and an even more unspoiled atmosphere. A rental car is indispensable here: The small villages are hardly accessible by bus, and the winding roads through the hilly landscape are an experience in themselves.
Motovun (Montona)
★★★ Motovun
The most famous hilltop village in Istria (531 inhabitants) sits atop a 277 m high hill above the Mirna Valley and is the truffle capital of Croatia. The silhouette — medieval walls and towers over vineyards — is iconic and graces almost every Istria travel guide.
The city wall is walkable and offers a breathtaking 360° view: to the north, the green hills up to the Alps, to the south, the Mirna Valley with its oak forests where the famous truffles grow. The small main square (Trg Andrea Antico) with its Romanesque tower, Renaissance church, and Venetian palace is a gem.
Every summer, the Motovun Film Festival takes place (July/August, 5 days): independent and arthouse films are shown on the main square under the open sky. 10,000+ visitors in a village of 531 inhabitants — a unique atmosphere.
Motovun's truffle season begins in September (black summer truffle from June), the coveted white truffles are available October–December. Almost every restaurant serves truffle dishes (Fuži with truffles, truffle omelet, truffle cheese), and several shops sell truffle products.
💡 Tipp
Motovun has a parking problem: The town is car-free, and the only parking lot is 500m below on the slope (3€/day). In summer (and during the film festival), it is often full. Arrive early or in the evening when day-trippers are gone.
Grožnjan (Grisignana)
★★ Grožnjan — The Artist Village
In the 1960s, Grožnjan was almost deserted — a decaying hilltop village that had lost its Italian population after World War II. Then came the artists. Today, every second house is a studio, gallery, or music studio. Every summer, the Jeunesses Musicales Festival takes place: young musicians from all over the world rehearse in the stone houses, and in the evenings there are free concerts on the square.
The atmosphere is magical: narrow stone alleys, blooming bougainvilleas, cats in every corner, jazz music from open windows, and from the terrace of the café on the main square, a view over the endless hills of Istria.
Free access. Galleries: mostly 10–13 & 17–21 (summer). In winter, many studios are closed. Festival: July–August.
Hum & Buzet
★ Hum — The Smallest Town in the World
Hum officially has 30 inhabitants and claims the title "smallest town in the world" (disputed by the Guinness Book, but the sign stands). One city gate, one alley, one church, one Konoba, one souvenir shop — that's it. Sounds like a tourist trap, but it's surprisingly charming and authentic. In October, the mayoral election takes place: The male residents vote in the city loggia by notching a wooden stick (tradition since the 12th century).
The Glagolitic Alley (Aleja Glagoljaša) leads from Roč (7 km away) to Hum: Eleven stone sculptures along the roadside commemorate the Glagolitic alphabet, the oldest Slavic script. A beautiful walk (2 hours) or by car in 10 minutes.
Free access. The Konoba Humska has Biska (mistletoe schnapps) — the local specialty. Try a glass (2€)!
★ Buzet — Town of Truffles
Buzet (6,000 inhabitants) calls itself "Town of Truffles" and hosts the Truffle Festival every second Saturday in September: A giant omelet made from over 2,000 eggs and 10 kg of truffles is prepared on the main square in a huge pan and distributed for free. The rest of the year, Buzet is a sleepy hinterland town with a pretty old town on the hill and several truffle restaurants.
Truffle Hunting in Istria
Istria's truffles are on par with those from Alba (Piedmont) — at a fraction of the price. In the Mirna Valley and the surrounding oak forests, both white truffles (Tuber magnatum) and several types of black truffles grow.
Season & Types
- White truffle (Tuber magnatum): October–December. The king of truffles, intense aroma, only grated raw over pasta/eggs. Price: 2,000–4,000€/kg (in restaurants: dishes 25–50€).
- Black winter truffle (Tuber melanosporum): December–March. Strong, versatile (also for cooking). Price: 400–800€/kg.
- Black summer truffle (Tuber aestivum): June–September. Milder, cheaper. Price: 80–200€/kg.
Truffle Hunting as an Experience
The most impressive way to discover Istrian truffles is a guided truffle hunt with a dog in the forest. Several providers offer this experience:
Karlic Tartufi · Paladini 14, Buzet
The most famous provider. 2-hour truffle hunt in the forest with dogs + subsequent truffle lunch (5 courses!). Giancarlo Zigante, who found the world's largest white truffle (1.31 kg, Guinness record) in 1999, is the neighbor.
60–80€/person (incl. hunt + meal). Year-round, reservation required. karlic-tartufi.hr
Prodan Tartufi · Ipši, near Motovun
Family business in the third generation. Hunt in the Mirna Valley + tasting in the family cellar. More personal and intimate than Karlic.
55–70€/person. April–December. prodan-tartufi.com
Zigante Tartufi · Livade (3 km from Motovun)
The empire of Giancarlo Zigante: restaurant, shop, and truffle experiences. The restaurant "Zigante" in Livade is Istria's most famous truffle restaurant — every course contains truffles. Not the most authentic, but the most comprehensive experience.
Restaurant: Menu 40–80€. Shop: Truffle oil from 8€, truffle paste from 6€. zigante-tartufi.com
💡 Tipp
The best value-for-money tip for truffles: In October/November, order Fuži with fresh truffles in any Konoba in the hinterland — costs 15–25€ and is a culinary experience. Buy a jar of truffle paste (6–10€) as a souvenir in the store.
Olive Oil & Wine
Olive Oil — World-Class from Istria
Istria produces some of the best olive oils in the world — regularly among the top 10 in international competitions, ahead of Spain and Italy. The native variety Buža produces a fruity, slightly spicy oil with notes of green apple and artichoke.
Chiavalon · Vodnjan (12 km north of Pula)
Sandi Chiavalon regularly wins gold at the New York International Olive Oil Competition. Tour of the olive grove, harvest explanation, tasting of 4–5 oils with bread and cheese.
Tasting: 15–25€/person. Advance booking required. chiavalon.hr
Olea BB (Belić) · Kanfanar
One of the most awarded producers in Istria. Family-run, personal atmosphere, excellent oils.
Tasting: 15€/person. oleabb.com
Ipša · Baredine near Poreč
In an old stone mill, can be combined with a visit to the Baredine Cave. 6 oils for tasting, plus local cheese and Pršut.
Tasting: 12€/person. ipsa.hr
Wine — The Wine Route of Istria
Istria's wine scene is booming — the region has transformed from a mass-production to a quality wine region in the last 20 years. The three main grape varieties:
- Malvazija (Malvasia): Istria's No. 1 white wine. Fresh, fruity, mineral, with notes of acacia and white peach. Perfect with seafood and truffle dishes. Found everywhere.
- Teran: Powerful, earthy red wine from the indigenous Refosco grape. Deep dark, tannic, with notes of forest berries and earth. Pairs with game, red meat, and aged cheese.
- Muškat Momjanski (Muscat): Sweet, aromatic white wine from the area around Momjan. Ideal as an aperitif or dessert wine. Rare and special.
Wine Road Central Istria: From Vodnjan via Kanfanar to Motovun and Buzet. Dozens of wineries with tastings (usually 10–20€ for 4–6 wines + snacks). Highly recommended:
Kozlović · Momjan (near Buje) — Istria's most famous winery. Modern cellar, terrace with panoramic view, excellent Malvazija and Muškat. Tasting from 15€.
Kabola · Kanedolo near Momjan — Organic winery in an old stone house. Tasting in the cellar, plus homemade cheese. 12€.
Trapan · Šišan near Pula — Young, innovative winemaker. Orange wine and amphora wine alongside classic Malvazija. Tasting from 20€.
Roxanich · Motovun — Experimental natural wines in a spectacular new cellar. Not to everyone's taste, but fascinating. Tasting from 25€.
💡 Tipp
Most wineries and oil mills offer tastings only by appointment (24–48h in advance). Just call or send an email — almost everyone speaks German or English.
Accommodation in the Hinterland
In the hinterland, there are hardly any hotels — but wonderful Agriturismos (farmhouses with rooms) and restored stone houses. Here you experience the real Istria.
€€ Agroturizam San Mauro · Momjan
Farm with 6 rooms, pool, own olive oil and wine. Dinner on the terrace with a view over the vineyards (25€/person, pre-order). Double room from 70€.
€€ Meneghetti Wine Hotel · Bale (between Rovinj and Pula)
Winery + olive grove + boutique hotel. Excellent restaurant, pool, wine tasting included. Double room from 120€.
€€€ San Canzian Village & Hotel · Buje
Entire village converted into a luxury hotel. Suites in renovated stone houses, Michelin-awarded restaurant, infinity pool with hill view. From 200€.