Istria
Discover Istria
Istria is Croatia's northernmost and wealthiest region — and the one that differs most from the rest of Croatia. The heart-shaped peninsula (3,476 km²) was part of the Republic of Venice for centuries, then the Habsburg Empire, then Italy, and only became part of Yugoslavia in 1947. This past is felt everywhere: bilingual town signs (Croatian/Italian), pasta on every menu, and architecture that resembles Tuscany more than Dalmatia.
In the west, the Venetian coastal towns of Rovinj, Poreč, Novigrad, and Umag with their pastel-colored facades and fishing boats. In the south, Pula with the sixth-largest preserved Roman amphitheater in the world. And in the hinterland — the true heart of Istria — medieval hilltop villages, endless olive groves, vineyards, and oak forests where Europe's most valuable truffles grow.
Istria is culinary Croatia. Nowhere else in the country do you eat and drink so well. The region has more olive oil awards per capita than Tuscany, the white truffles rival those from Alba, and the native grape varieties Malvazija and Teran are conquering international wine guides.
Plan at least 5–7 days for Istria. Ideally with a rental car, as the most beautiful places in the hinterland are hard to reach without a car.
Tipp
Istria is the ideal region for a car rental holiday. Distances are short (Pula–Rovinj 40 min., Pula–Motovun 1 hr.), roads are good, and much of the hinterland is hardly accessible by bus. Car rentals from Pula Airport from about €25/day.
Pula
Istria's largest city (57,000 inhabitants) is not a pretty tourist town — Pula is a lively, somewhat rough working city with a 3,000-year history simmering beneath the surface. The Romans made Pula the most important city in Istria and left behind an amphitheater, which today is one of the best-preserved in the world. There is also a Temple of Augustus, an Arch of Triumph, and early Christian mosaics.
Pula has less postcard charm than Rovinj or Poreč, but more authenticity, lower prices, and real city life. Most tourists only come for the Arena — a mistake. Those who take their time will discover excellent restaurants, a lively café culture, and the most beautiful bathing bays in Istria on the nearby Cape Kamenjak peninsula.
Plan at least 2 full days: one for the city, one for Cape Kamenjak or the Brijuni Islands.
Sights
★★★ Arena (Amphitheater)
The landmark of Pula and Istria — the sixth-largest preserved Roman amphitheater in the world. Built between 27 BC and 68 AD under the emperors Augustus and Vespasian, it once held 23,000 spectators for gladiator fights. The outer wall (132 × 105 m, up to 32 m high) is still almost completely intact — three stories of arches made of Istrian limestone, glowing golden in the evening light.
In the underground is an exhibition on olive oil trade and wine production in antiquity — surprisingly interesting. In summer, concerts and the film festival take place in the arena: Sting, Elton John, Andrea Bocelli, and Foo Fighters have performed here. A concert in the arena at sunset is an unforgettable experience.
Admission: 10€ (adults), 5€ (children 7–18), under 7 free. April–September: 8 AM–9 PM (July/August until 11 PM). October–March: 9 AM–5 PM. Audioguide 5€ (worth it). Concert tickets: 30–80€, via Eventim.hr.
Tipp
Come in the morning at opening (8 AM) or in the evening from 7 PM — then the arena is almost empty and the light is perfect. The evening lighting of the arena (from dusk) is freely visible from outside and spectacular.
Other Sights
★★ Temple of Augustus (Augustov Hram)
At the Forum (main square) stands this exquisitely preserved Roman temple from the 1st century — dedicated to the goddess Roma and Emperor Augustus. One of the best-preserved Augustan temples outside Rome. Small but perfectly proportioned. Inside, a small collection of Roman stonework and sculptures.
3€. May–September: 9 AM–9 PM. October–April: only with guided tours.
★★ Triumphal Arch of the Sergii (Slavoluk Sergijevaca)
This elegant triumphal arch from 29 BC was once part of the city gate (Porta Aurea). Built by Salvia Postuma Sergia in honor of three family members who fought in the Battle of Actium. Elaborate Corinthian columns and reliefs with garlands, sphinxes, and eagles. James Joyce (who lived in Pula in 1904–05) is said to have spent his evenings at a café next to the arch — today a bronze statue of Joyce sits on a chair in front.
Free access, 24/7.
★★ Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary
Located directly by the sea, on the foundations of a Roman temple and an early Christian basilica from the 5th century. The freestanding bell tower was partially built from stones of the arena. Inside: remains of beautiful Byzantine floor mosaics from the 5th/6th century.
Free. Daily 8 AM–6 PM.
★ Historical and Maritime Museum (Povijesni i Pomorski Muzej)
In the Venetian castle on the hill above the city. The fortress itself (17th century) is more impressive than the exhibition. But the 360° panoramic view over Pula, the harbor, and the offshore islands is worth the climb alone.
6€. Daily 9 AM–8 PM (summer), 9 AM–5 PM (winter).
★ Aquarium Pula
In the Austro-Hungarian fortress Verudela, 3 km south of the center. Around 200 native Adriatic species plus a sea turtle rescue station. Especially good for families with children — the touch pool is a highlight.
10€ (adults), 6€ (children). June–September: 9 AM–10 PM. Otherwise shorter.
★ Ambrela Beach (Plaža Ambrela)
Pula's most popular city beach on the Verudela peninsula, 3 km south. Pebble beach with concrete platforms, clear water, beach bar, sunshade rental. Bus No. 2A from the center.
Mosaic of the Punishment of Dirce
Hidden behind a parking lot wall in Ul. Sergijevaca: an astonishingly well-preserved Roman floor mosaic from the 3rd century depicting the punishment of Dirce. Hardly visited, freely accessible.
Small Roman Theater
On the hill below the castle: the remains of a small Roman theater from the 2nd century. Less spectacular than the arena, but atmospheric and deserted.
City Walk: Roman Pula
Duration: approx. 90 minutes | Distance: approx. 2 km | Best time: Mornings from 9 AM
1. Arena (Start)
Start at the amphitheater. Admire the dimensions from outside, then go inside and see the underground exhibition. 30–45 minutes.
2. Double Gate (Porta Gemina)
5 minutes on foot south: double-arched Roman city gate from the 2nd/3rd century. Behind it begins the ascent to the castle.
3. Castle (Fortress)
On the highest point of the old town. Venetian star fortress with panoramic view. Briefly go in for the view, the museum is optional.
4. Small Roman Theater
Directly below the castle on the north side. Atmospheric ruin, hardly visited.
5. Forum with Temple of Augustus
Down the hill to the Forum — Pula's main square for 2,000 years. Admire the Temple of Augustus, coffee at the café on the square.
6. Mosaic of Dirce
2 minutes north of the Forum: the hidden Roman floor mosaic. Easy to overlook — watch for the signage.
7. Triumphal Arch of the Sergii
Continue through the pedestrian zone. At the arch, the Joyce statue for a photo, then through the arch.
8. Promenade & Market (End)
Along Sergijevaca Street (Pula's shopping street) to the market. Fresh fruit, cheese, Istrian pršut, truffle products. Perfect ending.
Tipp
The arena offers combo tickets with the Temple of Augustus and the mosaic (15€ instead of 16€ individually). There is good espresso at the Forum — Pula has a pronounced café culture thanks to its Italian and Austrian past.
Eating & Drinking in Pula
€ Budget (Main course under 12€)
Jupiter · Castropola 42
Pula's best pizzeria for decades. Wood-fired pizza, huge portions, local draft beer. Always full — locals and tourists alike.
6–12€ · Daily 11 AM–11 PM
Market Caffe · Tržnica (Market Hall)
In the historic market hall: simple, fresh dishes — fried fish, sardines, salads. Authentic atmosphere among the market stalls.
5–10€ · Mon–Sat 7 AM–3 PM
Pekarna (Bakery) · Flanatička 16
For the best burek in town: börek with meat, cheese, or spinach. Plus a yogurt. Breakfast for under 4€.
2–5€ · Daily 6 AM–10 PM
€€ Mid-range (Main course 12–25€)
Konoba Batelina · Čimulje 25, Banjole (4 km south)
Legendary fish restaurant, regularly awarded as one of the best in Croatia. No menu — owner Davorka brings what's fresh. Multi-course fish menu with surprise dishes. Reservation required, at least 3 days in advance!
25–40€ (for a full menu) · Tue–Sat 12–10 PM · ★★★
Konoba Frateria · Trg Portarata 5
In the middle of the old town, yet authentic. Istrian specialties: Fuži with truffles, black risotto, pršut platter. Beautiful courtyard in summer.
12–22€ · Daily 11 AM–11 PM · ★★
Kantina · Flanatička 16
Modern bistro style with Istrian products. Fantastic truffle pasta, seafood linguine, good wine selection. Younger crowd, relaxed atmosphere.
10–20€ · Mon–Sat 12–11 PM · ★★
Vodnjanka · Vitezićeva 4
Traditional Istrian cuisine: Maneštra (vegetable stew), Fritaja (omelet with wild asparagus), grilled fish of the day. Family-run, warm-hearted.
10–18€ · Mon–Sat 11 AM–10 PM
€€€ High-end (Main course 25€+)
Milan · Stoja 4
Fine dining in a relaxed atmosphere. Tasting menu with 5–7 courses, each course an Istrian masterpiece: truffles, seafood, game from the hinterland. Excellent wine list with Istrian rarities.
40–70€ (menu) · Tue–Sat 6–11 PM · ★★★ · Reservation!
Cafés & Bars
Cvajner · Forum 2 — Coffee at the Forum with a view of the Temple of Augustus. Espresso like in Italy, 1.50€.
Cabahia · Sisplac 7 — Craft beer bar with 12 taps, including local breweries. Backyard garden.
Uliks · At the Triumphal Arch — Named after James Joyce (Ulysses). Craft cocktails next to the Joyce statue.
Accommodation in Pula
€ Budget (under 50€/night)
Crazy House Hostel · Šijanska 6
Popular hostel with colorful design, communal kitchen, and rooftop terrace. Dorm from 18€, private room from 45€. 10 min walk to the arena.
Apartments Maslina · Verudela
Simple, clean apartments with kitchen, 5 min to Ambrela Beach. Studio from 40€/night. Ideal for self-caterers.
€€ Mid-range (50–120€/night)
Hotel Galija · Epulonova 3
Centrally located boutique hotel in a renovated townhouse. Modern rooms, 3 min to the arena. Double room from 70€ including breakfast.
Park Plaza Arena · Verudela
Large family hotel on Verudela. Pool, animation, private beach, sports facilities. Double room from 90€. Ideal with children.
€€€ High-end (120€+/night)
Hotel Valsabbion · Pješčana Uvala IX/26
Istria's flagship — boutique hotel with the best restaurant in town. Right by the sea, minimalist design, excellent service. Suite from 180€.
Practical Info Pula
Arrival
- Pula Airport (PUY): 6 km northeast. In summer, direct flights from Germany (Eurowings, Ryanair, Wizz Air from Berlin, Cologne, Düsseldorf, Munich, Frankfurt-Hahn). Shuttle bus 5€ (30 min), taxi 15–20€.
- Bus: Zagreb 3.5–4h (18–28€), Rijeka 1.5–2h (10–15€), Rovinj 45 min (5–7€), Trieste 2h (12€).
- Car: A9 (Istrian Ypsilon) to Pula. Toll required (~8€ from Slovenia/Umag). Free parking at the stadium (15 min walk to the center).
Orientation
Pula is compact. The arena is at the northern edge of the old town, the Forum (main square) in the center, the harbor in the southwest. Everything is within walking distance. The beaches (Verudela, Stoja) are 3–4 km south — bus 2A or 3A.
Tourist Information
Forum 3. Mon–Fri 8 AM–8 PM, Sat/Sun 9 AM–4 PM (summer longer). Free city maps and event calendars.
Achtung
Pula has a parking problem: In the season, all parking spaces in the center are chargeable (1–2€/h) and often full. Use the large free parking lot at the Aldo Drosina Stadium or at the Max City shopping center.
Rovinj
If Istria had a heart, it would be Rovinj (Italian: Rovigno). The most photogenic city in Croatia juts out into the sea on a narrow peninsula — a pastel-colored jumble of Venetian houses whose balconies hang directly over the water. Above it towers the Church of St. Euphemia with its 61m high bell tower, which serves as a landmark for the entire Istrian west coast.
Rovinj was actually an island until 1763 — only then was the narrow channel between the island and the mainland filled in. The Venetian past (1283–1797) is omnipresent: in the architecture, the language (many older residents still speak Italian as their mother tongue), and in the cuisine.
In summer, however, Rovinj can become very crowded — the narrow streets of the old town then become human chains. The best time is May/June or September/October: Warm enough for swimming, but without the crowds.
Sights
★★★ Old Town & Peninsula
Rovinj's old town is an open-air museum. Get lost on purpose: Every alley leads either to the sea or uphill to the church. The houses are built so close together that some balconies almost touch. Colorful facades in terracotta, ocher, and pastel pink, with clotheslines and flower boxes in between. On the south side of the peninsula, steps lead directly into the crystal-clear water — here locals sunbathe on the rocks.
Free access, 24/7. The most beautiful walk: once around the peninsula on the coastal path (Lungomare), approx. 45 min.
★★★ Church of St. Euphemia (Sv. Eufemija)
The baroque church (completed in 1736) on the highest point of the peninsula dominates the skyline. Inside is the sarcophagus of Saint Euphemia, an early Christian martyr from the 3rd century, whose relics, according to legend, mysteriously arrived by boat from Constantinople to Rovinj. The bell tower (61 m, modeled after the St. Mark's Campanile in Venice) is climbable and offers a 360° view over the old town, the archipelago, and on clear days, even to the Alps.
Church free. Bell tower: 3€. Daily 10 AM–6 PM (summer), mass Sun 10 AM.
★★ Grisia Street
The steepest alley in the old town, from the Balbi Arch up to the church, is Rovinj's artist's mile. Dozens of galleries and studios display (and sell) paintings, sculptures, ceramics, and jewelry. Every August, the entire street transforms into an open-air gallery during the Grisia Art Festival — then over 200 artists exhibit on walls, stairs, and doors.
Galleries: mostly 10 AM–1 PM & 5–10 PM. Grisia Festival: mid-August, one day, free.
★★ Balbi Arch (Balbijev Luk)
The former city gate from 1680 marks the entrance to the old town. Venetian style with a Turkish head on the outside and a Venetian head inside — symbolic of the defense against the Ottomans. Today the most photographed passage in Rovinj.
Free access.
★★ Homeland Museum (Zavičajni Muzej)
In the baroque palace of the Counts Califfi. Small but fine collection: paintings by old masters (including a real Tiepolo!), archaeological finds, maritime history. The view from the rooftop terrace over the harbor is worth the admission alone.
5€. Tue–Sun 10 AM–2 PM & 5–9 PM (summer). Winter limited.
★★ Rovinj Archipelago
In front of Rovinj lie 22 islands and islets. The largest, Crveni Otok (Red Island), is reachable by boat in 15 minutes and offers two interconnected islands: St. Andrew (hotel complex, rocky beach) and Maškin (natural, nudist). Next to it is the island Sveta Katarina — smaller, quieter, with a boutique hotel and a pebble beach.
Boat from the harbor: Crveni Otok 5€ return, Sv. Katarina 4€ return. Every 30–60 min in summer.
★ Forest Park Zlatni Rt (Punta Corrente)
South of the old town: a 70 ha coastal park with Aleppo pines, cypresses, and hidden bathing bays. Designed as a park by the Austrian industrialist Baron Hütterott in 1890. Ideal for jogging, cycling, or a picnic. The bays Lone Bay and Škaraba are popular with locals.
Free access. 15 min walk from the harbor.
Eating & Drinking in Rovinj
€ Budget (Main course under 12€)
Maestral · Obala V. Nazora 2 (at the harbor)
Simple fish restaurant right by the water. Freshly grilled sardines, calamari, large salads. Cheap for Rovinj standards.
8–14€ · Daily 10 AM–11 PM
Valentino Gelateria · Sv. Križa 28
Artisanal ice cream with an Istrian twist: lavender, olive oil, truffle chocolate. Absurdly good. Tiny shop, always a line.
Scoop 2€ · Daily 10 AM–12 AM (summer)
€€ Mid-range (Main course 12–25€)
Konoba Ulika · Šetalište Vijeća Europe 3
Right by the sea outside the old town. Excellent seafood pasta, grilled sea bass, Istrian pršut. Terrace with sunset view.
14–24€ · Daily 12–11 PM · ★★
Konoba Jure · Ul. Svetog Križa 1
Hidden in a side alley of the old town. Family-run, tiny, only 6 tables. Homemade fuži with truffles, maneštra, fritaja with wild asparagus. Reservation!
12–20€ · Tue–Sun 12–10 PM · ★★
Barba Danilo · Trg Brodogradilišta 4
Located at the fish market, seafood tapas style. Squid burger, mussels, shrimp skewers. Quick, uncomplicated, delicious.
8–16€ · Daily 11 AM–10 PM
Giannino · Augusto Ferri 38
A bit off the beaten path, but honestly Istrian-Italian. Freshly made pasta, truffle risotto, local wines by the glass. Cozy garden.
12–22€ · Wed–Mon 12–11 PM · ★★
Puntulina · Sv. Križa 38
Romantic restaurant on the rocks on the south side of the peninsula. The tables are on rock terraces directly above the sea. Seafood and Istrian pasta at a very high level.
18–30€ · Daily 12 PM–12 AM · ★★★ · Reservation!
€€€ High-end (Main course 25€+)
Monte · Montalbano 75
Rovinj's top restaurant with a Michelin star. Chef Danijel Đekić interprets Istrian classics at the highest level — truffles, seafood, game. Tasting menu from 90€. Terrace with church view. Reserve weeks in advance.
90–130€ (menu) · Tue–Sat 6:30–10 PM · ★★★ · Reservation required
Bars
Valentino Bar · Sv. Križa 28 — Cocktail bar directly on the rocks by the sea. Cushions on the rock, feet in the water, sunset. Expensive (cocktail 12–15€), but unique.
Monte Beach Bar · Zlatni Rt — Beach bar in the forest park. Lounge music, cocktails, relaxed.
Havana · At the harbor — Casual music bar, cocktails, view of the illuminated old town.
Tipp
In Rovinj, be sure to reserve — especially at Puntulina and Monte. In July/August, the best restaurants are fully booked in the evenings. At lunchtime, you often have more luck.
Accommodation in Rovinj
€ Budget (under 60€/night)
Hostel Link · Montalbano 2a
Rovinj's only true hostel, centrally located. Dorm from 22€, private double room from 55€. Communal kitchen, rooftop terrace.
Apartments Casa Alice · Various locations
Privately rented apartments in and around the old town. Studio from 50€/night. Search on Booking.com or Airbnb — the offer is large.
€€ Mid-range (60–150€/night)
Hotel Adriatic · Obala P. Budicina 16
Directly at the harbor, completely renovated in modern boutique style. Rooms with harbor view from 100€. The rooftop terrace is the perfect sundowner spot.
Villa Tuttorotto · A. Ferri 34
Small heritage hotel in a Venetian townhouse. Individually decorated rooms, warm service. Double room from 80€.
€€€ Upscale (150€+/night)
Hotel Lone · Luje Adamovića 31
Top-class design hotel in the Zlatni Rt forest park. Award-winning architecture, infinity pool, spa, two restaurants. The coolest hotel in Istria. From 200€.
Grand Park Hotel Rovinj · A. Smareglia 1
Luxury resort by the sea, opened in 2019. 5 stars, Cap Aureo Spa, three restaurants (including the Michelin-awarded one). From 250€.
Poreč
Poreč (Italian: Parenzo) is Istria's most visited city — mainly because of the huge hotel resorts in the south (Zelena Laguna, Plava Laguna) and a UNESCO World Heritage site in the heart of the old town. The Euphrasian Basilica from the 6th century has gold-ground mosaics that are among the most important early Byzantine artworks outside Ravenna.
The old town is located on a narrow peninsula with the Roman street grid still clearly visible: The Decumanus (main street) and the Cardo (cross street) from the 1st century are now pedestrian zones. Poreč is more touristy than Rovinj, but more family-friendly: The beaches are better equipped, there are water parks, and the infrastructure for families is first-class.
Sights
★★★ Euphrasius Basilica (UNESCO World Heritage)
Poreč's undisputed highlight and one of the most significant early Christian buildings in Europe. Bishop Euphrasius had the basilica built in 553 AD — at a time when Poreč belonged to the Byzantine Empire. The golden mosaics in the apse are breathtaking: Christ enthroned, the Virgin Mary with child, Bishop Euphrasius with the church model, saints and angels — all in glowing gold, blue, and red on a 1,500-year-old foundation.
The complex also includes an atrium (courtyard with ancient stone fragments), a baptistery (baptismal chapel), and the bishop's palace. The bell tower is climbable.
Basilica free. Museum + bell tower: 5€. Daily 9 AM–6 PM (summer until 9 PM). Appropriate clothing (shoulders/knees covered).
Tipp
The mosaics of the basilica are most impressive in the afternoon light when the sun shines through the windows and makes the gold glow. Around 4–5 PM, the number of visitors is also lower.
Beaches & Family Activities
Beaches
Zelena Laguna: 5 km south, Istria's most famous beach complex. Pebble and rocky beaches with excellent infrastructure: sunshades, beach bars, water skiing, banana boat, diving schools. Blue Flag beach.
Plava Laguna: 3 km south. Similar to Zelena Laguna, slightly quieter. Ideal for families with small children — shallow entry in some places.
City Beach Brulo: Directly on the old town peninsula. Small but convenient. Pebbles, clear water.
Island Sv. Nikola: Opposite the old town, taxi boat 5 min. Beautiful pebble beaches on the south side, less crowded. 4€ return.
Family Activities
- Aquacolors Water Park (Červar-Porat, 7 km north): Largest water park in Istria. 17 slides, wave pool, lazy river, children's pool. 30€/adults, 24€/children. May–September.
- Dinopark Funtana (8 km south): Life-size dinosaur models in the forest. Playgrounds, zip-line, 4D cinema. 16€/adults, 12€/children. Perfect for children 3–12 years.
- Baredine Cave (Nova Vas, 8 km): Stalactite cave with an underground lake and the endemic olm. Guided tours (45 min), pleasantly cool in summer. 10€.
- Boat trips: Dolphin watching (from 25€, evenings), day trip to Rovinj (from 20€), boat trip to pirate caves (15€, with children).
Eating & Staying in Poreč
Restaurants
Konoba Daniela · Matka Laginje 4
A bit off the beaten path in the east of the old town. Istrian home cooking: Fuži, Pljukanci, grilled fish. Small garden, honest prices.
10–18€ · Tue–Sun 12–10 PM · ★★
Sv. Nikola · Obala Maršala Tita 23
Right on the promenade, fresh fish and seafood. Squid salad, mussels Buzara, grilled sea bream. Nice terrace.
14–25€ · Daily 11 AM–11 PM · ★★
Nono · Zagrebačka 4
Legendary pizzeria for generations. Huge pizzas from the stone oven, family-friendly, cheaper than the promenade restaurants.
7–12€ · Daily 11 AM–11 PM
Spinnaker · Obala Maršala Tita 15
Modern fish restaurant at the harbor. Creative dishes, beautifully presented, good wine selection.
18–30€ · Daily 12–11 PM · ★★
Accommodations
€ Camp Zelena Laguna — One of the best campsites in Croatia. Right by the sea, pitch from 25€/night. Pools, restaurants, animation.
€€ Hotel Mauro · Veli Jože 9 — Small boutique hotel in the heart of the old town. Double room from 80€. Charm and central location.
€€ Valamar Riviera Hotel & Residence · Rade Končara 12 — Right on the coast, pool, spa, half-board possible. Double room from 100€. Solid family option.
€€€ Valamar Collection Parentino · Zelena Laguna — Luxurious adults-only hotel. Infinity pool, spa, fine dining. From 180€.
The Istrian Hinterland
This is where the soul of Istria lies. While the coast booms, time ticks more slowly in the hinterland. Medieval hilltop villages perch above a sea of olive groves, vineyards, and oak forests. The air smells of earth and herbs, and Europe's most valuable truffles grow in the forests.
The hinterland is why connoisseurs call Istria the "Croatian Tuscany" — only with fewer tourists, lower prices, and an even more unspoiled atmosphere. A rental car is indispensable here: The small villages are hardly accessible by bus, and the winding roads through the hilly landscape are an experience in themselves.
Motovun (Montona)
★★★ Motovun
The most famous hilltop village in Istria (531 inhabitants) sits atop a 277 m high hill above the Mirna Valley and is the truffle capital of Croatia. The silhouette — medieval walls and towers over vineyards — is iconic and graces almost every Istria travel guide.
The city wall is walkable and offers a breathtaking 360° view: to the north, the green hills up to the Alps, to the south, the Mirna Valley with its oak forests where the famous truffles grow. The small main square (Trg Andrea Antico) with its Romanesque tower, Renaissance church, and Venetian palace is a gem.
Every summer, the Motovun Film Festival takes place (July/August, 5 days): independent and arthouse films are shown on the main square under the open sky. 10,000+ visitors in a village of 531 inhabitants — a unique atmosphere.
Motovun's truffle season begins in September (black summer truffle from June), the coveted white truffles are available October–December. Almost every restaurant serves truffle dishes (Fuži with truffles, truffle omelet, truffle cheese), and several shops sell truffle products.
Tipp
Motovun has a parking problem: The town is car-free, and the only parking lot is 500m below on the slope (3€/day). In summer (and during the film festival), it is often full. Arrive early or in the evening when day-trippers are gone.
Grožnjan (Grisignana)
★★ Grožnjan — The Artist Village
In the 1960s, Grožnjan was almost deserted — a decaying hilltop village that had lost its Italian population after World War II. Then came the artists. Today, every second house is a studio, gallery, or music studio. Every summer, the Jeunesses Musicales Festival takes place: young musicians from all over the world rehearse in the stone houses, and in the evenings there are free concerts on the square.
The atmosphere is magical: narrow stone alleys, blooming bougainvilleas, cats in every corner, jazz music from open windows, and from the terrace of the café on the main square, a view over the endless hills of Istria.
Free access. Galleries: mostly 10–13 & 17–21 (summer). In winter, many studios are closed. Festival: July–August.
Hum & Buzet
★ Hum — The Smallest Town in the World
Hum officially has 30 inhabitants and claims the title "smallest town in the world" (disputed by the Guinness Book, but the sign stands). One city gate, one alley, one church, one Konoba, one souvenir shop — that's it. Sounds like a tourist trap, but it's surprisingly charming and authentic. In October, the mayoral election takes place: The male residents vote in the city loggia by notching a wooden stick (tradition since the 12th century).
The Glagolitic Alley (Aleja Glagoljaša) leads from Roč (7 km away) to Hum: Eleven stone sculptures along the roadside commemorate the Glagolitic alphabet, the oldest Slavic script. A beautiful walk (2 hours) or by car in 10 minutes.
Free access. The Konoba Humska has Biska (mistletoe schnapps) — the local specialty. Try a glass (2€)!
★ Buzet — Town of Truffles
Buzet (6,000 inhabitants) calls itself "Town of Truffles" and hosts the Truffle Festival every second Saturday in September: A giant omelet made from over 2,000 eggs and 10 kg of truffles is prepared on the main square in a huge pan and distributed for free. The rest of the year, Buzet is a sleepy hinterland town with a pretty old town on the hill and several truffle restaurants.
Truffle Hunting in Istria
Istria's truffles are on par with those from Alba (Piedmont) — at a fraction of the price. In the Mirna Valley and the surrounding oak forests, both white truffles (Tuber magnatum) and several types of black truffles grow.
Season & Types
- White truffle (Tuber magnatum): October–December. The king of truffles, intense aroma, only grated raw over pasta/eggs. Price: 2,000–4,000€/kg (in restaurants: dishes 25–50€).
- Black winter truffle (Tuber melanosporum): December–March. Strong, versatile (also for cooking). Price: 400–800€/kg.
- Black summer truffle (Tuber aestivum): June–September. Milder, cheaper. Price: 80–200€/kg.
Truffle Hunting as an Experience
The most impressive way to discover Istrian truffles is a guided truffle hunt with a dog in the forest. Several providers offer this experience:
Karlic Tartufi · Paladini 14, Buzet
The most famous provider. 2-hour truffle hunt in the forest with dogs + subsequent truffle lunch (5 courses!). Giancarlo Zigante, who found the world's largest white truffle (1.31 kg, Guinness record) in 1999, is the neighbor.
60–80€/person (incl. hunt + meal). Year-round, reservation required. karlic-tartufi.hr
Prodan Tartufi · Ipši, near Motovun
Family business in the third generation. Hunt in the Mirna Valley + tasting in the family cellar. More personal and intimate than Karlic.
55–70€/person. April–December. prodan-tartufi.com
Zigante Tartufi · Livade (3 km from Motovun)
The empire of Giancarlo Zigante: restaurant, shop, and truffle experiences. The restaurant "Zigante" in Livade is Istria's most famous truffle restaurant — every course contains truffles. Not the most authentic, but the most comprehensive experience.
Restaurant: Menu 40–80€. Shop: Truffle oil from 8€, truffle paste from 6€. zigante-tartufi.com
Tipp
The best value-for-money tip for truffles: In October/November, order Fuži with fresh truffles in any Konoba in the hinterland — costs 15–25€ and is a culinary experience. Buy a jar of truffle paste (6–10€) as a souvenir in the store.
Olive Oil & Wine
Olive Oil — World-Class from Istria
Istria produces some of the best olive oils in the world — regularly among the top 10 in international competitions, ahead of Spain and Italy. The native variety Buža produces a fruity, slightly spicy oil with notes of green apple and artichoke.
Chiavalon · Vodnjan (12 km north of Pula)
Sandi Chiavalon regularly wins gold at the New York International Olive Oil Competition. Tour of the olive grove, harvest explanation, tasting of 4–5 oils with bread and cheese.
Tasting: 15–25€/person. Advance booking required. chiavalon.hr
Olea BB (Belić) · Kanfanar
One of the most awarded producers in Istria. Family-run, personal atmosphere, excellent oils.
Tasting: 15€/person. oleabb.com
Ipša · Baredine near Poreč
In an old stone mill, can be combined with a visit to the Baredine Cave. 6 oils for tasting, plus local cheese and Pršut.
Tasting: 12€/person. ipsa.hr
Wine — The Wine Route of Istria
Istria's wine scene is booming — the region has transformed from a mass-production to a quality wine region in the last 20 years. The three main grape varieties:
- Malvazija (Malvasia): Istria's No. 1 white wine. Fresh, fruity, mineral, with notes of acacia and white peach. Perfect with seafood and truffle dishes. Found everywhere.
- Teran: Powerful, earthy red wine from the indigenous Refosco grape. Deep dark, tannic, with notes of forest berries and earth. Pairs with game, red meat, and aged cheese.
- Muškat Momjanski (Muscat): Sweet, aromatic white wine from the area around Momjan. Ideal as an aperitif or dessert wine. Rare and special.
Wine Road Central Istria: From Vodnjan via Kanfanar to Motovun and Buzet. Dozens of wineries with tastings (usually 10–20€ for 4–6 wines + snacks). Highly recommended:
Kozlović · Momjan (near Buje) — Istria's most famous winery. Modern cellar, terrace with panoramic view, excellent Malvazija and Muškat. Tasting from 15€.
Kabola · Kanedolo near Momjan — Organic winery in an old stone house. Tasting in the cellar, plus homemade cheese. 12€.
Trapan · Šišan near Pula — Young, innovative winemaker. Orange wine and amphora wine alongside classic Malvazija. Tasting from 20€.
Roxanich · Motovun — Experimental natural wines in a spectacular new cellar. Not to everyone's taste, but fascinating. Tasting from 25€.
Tipp
Most wineries and oil mills offer tastings only by appointment (24–48h in advance). Just call or send an email — almost everyone speaks German or English.
Accommodation in the Hinterland
In the hinterland, there are hardly any hotels — but wonderful Agriturismos (farmhouses with rooms) and restored stone houses. Here you experience the real Istria.
€€ Agroturizam San Mauro · Momjan
Farm with 6 rooms, pool, own olive oil and wine. Dinner on the terrace with a view over the vineyards (25€/person, pre-order). Double room from 70€.
€€ Meneghetti Wine Hotel · Bale (between Rovinj and Pula)
Winery + olive grove + boutique hotel. Excellent restaurant, pool, wine tasting included. Double room from 120€.
€€€ San Canzian Village & Hotel · Buje
Entire village converted into a luxury hotel. Suites in renovated stone houses, Michelin-awarded restaurant, infinity pool with hill view. From 200€.
Cape Kamenjak★★★
The southernmost tip of Istria is a protected nature reserve and hosts the most beautiful wild beaches on the peninsula. Along 9.5 km of coastline, hidden pebble bays, rugged cliffs, turquoise pools, and underwater caves alternate. No hotels, no bed castles, no beach loungers — just nature.
What is there to see and do?
- Cliffs & Cliff Jumping: At the southern tip and on the west coast, there are natural jumping rocks (3–10m). The most popular spot is at the Safari Bar — even beginners jump here (3–5m). Caution: Check water depth beforehand!
- Bays: Over 30 small bays, many only accessible on foot. The most well-known: Podugo (large pebble beach), Njive (family-friendly), Plovanije (nudist), the "Kolumbija" bay at the very south.
- Snorkeling: Crystal clear water, underwater caves on the west side, rich fish life. Bring snorkeling equipment!
- Safari Bar: Legendary beach bar on the west side, right on the cliffs. Hammocks, cocktails, reggae music, sunset over the open sea. A must.
- Dinosaur Footprints: On the southeast coast (signposted), you can find real, 100 million-year-old dinosaur footprints in the rock. Fascinating, especially with children.
Entrance: €6/car + €4/person (bicycle €1.50). Open year-round (bar and snacks only in summer). Parking distributed throughout the reserve.
Tipp
Cape Kamenjak has no shade! In summer (July/August), it can get brutally hot on the rocks, over 40°C. Bring sunscreen, a hat, and plenty of water. Best to come in the morning (before 10 am) or afternoon (after 4 pm). The Safari Bar has the best sunset in Istria.
Achtung
The reserve is a protected nature park. Wild camping, making fires, and picking plants are strictly prohibited and will be fined. Take all trash with you — there are hardly any trash bins.
Brijuni Islands (National Park)★★
Off the west coast of Pula lies an archipelago of 14 islands, which has been a national park since 1983. The main island Veli Brijun was for decades the private residence of Josip Broz Tito — here, Yugoslavia's president for life received state guests like Fidel Castro, Indira Gandhi, Elizabeth Taylor, and Sophia Loren. The traces of this glamorous past are still visible everywhere.
What is there to see?
- Safari Park: Tito received exotic animals as gifts from his guests — elephants, zebras, llamas, parrots. Their descendants still live in the park. A bizarre mix of Croatian nature and African savanna.
- Tito Exhibition: In the former guesthouse: photos, films, and memorabilia from Tito's time. Fascinating for history enthusiasts — Tito as a playboy and statesman.
- Roman Villa: Remains of a luxurious Roman villa from the 1st century with floor mosaics in Veriga Bay.
- Dinosaur Footprints: Over 200 tracks of various dinosaur species, 100 million years old. Best seen on the east coast.
- Byzantine Castle: Ruins on a hill with panoramic views over the archipelago.
- Golf Course: 18-hole golf course with sea views — one of the most exclusive in the Adriatic.
Organize your visit
The islands are only accessible by organized tour from Fažana (8 km north of Pula). The standard tour lasts 4 hours and includes a boat trip, safari train, Tito exhibition, and free time for walking.
Standard tour: €35 (adults), €18 (children 4–14). Boats from Fažana hourly 8–17 (summer). Book in advance at brijuni.hr, especially July/August.
Tipp
The standard tour is quite rushed (4 hours for everything). If you want more time, you can rent an e-bike (€20/day) and explore the island on your own — then one boat there and one back is enough. Best: Take the morning tour, stay on the island in the afternoon.
Novigrad & Umag
★★ Novigrad (Cittanova)
Novigrad is Istria's best-kept secret — a tiny fishing village with an old town on a former island, which is not prominently featured in any travel guide, but hosts some of the best restaurants in the region. While Rovinj and Poreč burst at the seams in the summer, Novigrad remains pleasantly quiet.
The old town is a miniature Rovinj: pastel-colored houses, narrow alleys, a small harbor with colorful fishing boats. The Pelagija Church with its bell tower dominates the townscape. Along the Riva (promenade), first-class restaurants line up.
Restaurant Damir & Ornella · Zidine 5 — The most famous restaurant in Novigrad and regularly among the best fish restaurants in Croatia. No menu: Damir brings the catch of the day and explains personally. 5–7 courses, each a masterpiece. 40–60€/person. Reservation weeks in advance!
Restaurant Marina · Sv. Antona 38 — Right at the harbor, more down-to-earth than Damir & Ornella, but excellent. Seafood pasta, grilled fish, Istrian Pršut. 15–25€.
Konoba Čok · Svetog Pelagija 1 — Traditional konoba in the old town. Fuži, Maneštra, fresh fish. Cozy, family-run, fair. 10–18€.
★ Umag
Istria's northernmost town is primarily known as a tennis stronghold: The ATP tournament "Croatia Open" (July) attracts world stars, and the tennis facilities in the Stella Maris Resort are among the best in Europe. Otherwise, Umag offers a charming small old town, good beaches, and is the first stop for travelers from Slovenia/Italy.
Katoro Beach: 3 km south, one of the most beautiful family beaches in Istria. Pebbles, loungers, beach bars, water slide for children. Blue Flag beach.
Accommodation:
€€ Hotel & Residence Kempinski Savudrija · Alberi 300a — Luxury resort right on the cliffs, 3 km north. Infinity pool, spa, golf. From 150€.
€€ Sol Umag Hotel · Katoro — Large family resort. Pool, animation, tennis courts. Double room from 80€.
Tipp
Novigrad is the perfect insider tip for foodies: In a town with 4,000 inhabitants, there are at least 5 excellent restaurants. If you want to eat well without paying the tourist prices of Rovinj, this is the place to be.
Istria's Cuisine
Istria is Croatia's culinary epicenter. The mix of Italian culinary tradition, Croatian ingredients, and a new generation of ambitious chefs has created a gourmet region like no other. Three Michelin-recommended restaurants, hundreds of excellent konobas, world-class olive oil, truffles that rival those from Alba, and emerging wineries — Istria is a paradise for gourmets.
Truffles: Istria's Black (and White) Gold
The truffles from the Mirna Valley (between Motovun and Buzet) are among the best in the world. While the white truffles from Italian Alba are traded for 5,000–10,000€/kg, the Istrian ones cost only 2,000–4,000€/kg — with comparable quality. Connoisseurs say: no difference in taste.
White vs. Black Truffle
- White truffle (Tuber magnatum): October–December. Most intense aroma, ONLY grated raw over warm dishes (pasta, omelet, risotto). Loses its flavor when cooked. The king of truffles. In restaurants: 25–50€ for a dish with fresh white truffles (double in Alba).
- Black winter truffle (Tuber melanosporum): December–March. Strong, earthy, also suitable for cooking. In sauces, butter, pâtés. In restaurants: 15–30€.
- Black summer truffle (Tuber aestivum): June–September. Milder, subtler. Good in salads, pasta. In restaurants: 12–20€.
Where to Buy?
Zigante Shop (Livade near Motovun) has the largest selection: fresh truffles (seasonal), truffle oil (from 8€), truffle paste (from 6€), truffle cheese (from 5€), truffle honey (from 7€). There are also truffle shops in Pula, Rovinj, and Poreč — prices are similar.
Market in Buzet (Saturdays): Local truffle hunters sell directly. Cheapest price for fresh truffles, but only October–December (white) or year-round (black).
Olive Oil: World-Class from 5 Million Trees
Istria has over 5 million olive trees and produces some of the highest-rated olive oils in the world. In the Flos Olei Guide (the "bible" of the olive oil world), more than 20 Istrian producers are regularly among the top 500 worldwide — more than any other region of comparable size.
The native varieties Buža, Istarska Bjelica, and Rosinjola produce intensely fruity oils with a characteristic slightly spicy finish. Ideal for dipping with fresh bread or over grilled fish.
Top Tastings
- Chiavalon (Vodnjan): Multiple world champion. 15–25€.
- Olea BB / Belić (Kanfanar): Award-winning, family-run. 15€.
- Ipša (Poreč): In a historic mill. 12€.
- Brist (Vodnjan): Small, personal, excellent. 10€.
Almost every supermarket in Istria carries local olive oil — but beware: Only buy what explicitly says "Istrian extra-virgin olive oil" (ekstra djevičansko maslinovo ulje). Price from 8€/0.5l (direct sale) or 12€/0.5l (in-store). A perfect souvenir.
Wine: Malvazija, Teran & Muškat
Istria's wine revolution began in the 2000s — today there are over 200 wineries, most offering tastings. The region even has its own wine road (Vinska cesta) with over 80 stops.
The Three Main Grape Varieties
Malvazija Istarska (Malvasia)
Istria's signature wine — a dry white wine that can range from fresh and fruity (citrus, white peach) to complex and matured (honey, nut, herbs) depending on the winemaker. Some winemakers experiment with skin fermentation, producing world-class orange wines. Pairs with: seafood, truffle dishes, Istrian Pršut.
Teran
The red of Istria — dark, tannic, earthy, with notes of forest berries, plum, and a hint of red earth (terra rossa). Some say you can taste the soil of Istria. Pairs with: grilled meat, game, aged cheese, hearty pasta.
Muškat Momjanski
Aromatic sweet wine from the area around Momjan in the north. Fragrant with nutmeg, orange blossom, and honey. Perfect as an aperitif or dessert wine. Becoming increasingly rare — a must-try.
Recommended Wineries
Kozlović (Momjan) — Istria's most famous name. Spectacular terrace. From 15€.
Kabola (Momjan) — Organic, authentic, in a stone cellar. From 12€.
Trapan (Šišan near Pula) — Innovative, orange wine. From 20€.
Coronica (Umag) — Elegant Malvazija, modern cellar. From 15€.
Fakin (Motovun) — Young winemaker, creative, cool design. From 15€.
Istrian Specialties
Fuži
Istria's national pasta — handmade rolls of pasta dough that look like small quills. Traditionally served with truffle shavings, wild game ragout, or chicken sauce. On the menu in every Konoba in Istria — and almost always good.
Pljukanci
Hand-rolled pasta, thicker than Fuži, similar to Italian Pici. Usually with meat sauce or truffles.
Istrian Pršut
Air-dried ham, similar to Italian prosciutto, but with its own character: dried by the Bora (cold north wind) and sea salt, less fat, stronger in flavor. Served thinly sliced as an appetizer with cheese and olives. Available in every restaurant and market.
Fritaja
Istrian omelet with seasonal ingredients: in spring with wild asparagus (April/May — the best time!), in autumn with truffles, in summer with zucchini or tomatoes. Simple but fantastic when the ingredients are right.
Maneštra
Thick vegetable stew — Istria's comfort food. Beans, potatoes, corn, cabbage, depending on the season. Served with a dash of the best olive oil. Modest but satisfying.
Seafood
On the coast, fresh fish dominates: grilled Orada (gilt-head bream), Brancin (sea bass), Scampi na buzaru (scampi in tomato-white wine sauce), black risotto with cuttlefish ink.
Top 5 Food Experiences in Istria
- Truffle hunting with dog + menu (Karlic or Prodan near Buzet) — The ultimate Istria experience. 60–80€.
- Fish menu at Konoba Batelina (Banjole near Pula) — No menu, only the catch of the day. One of the best fish tables in Croatia. 25–40€.
- Olive oil tasting at Chiavalon (Vodnjan) — World-class oil, directly from the producer. 15–25€.
- Dinner at Damir & Ornella (Novigrad) — Top-class fish fine dining, personally served. 40–60€.
- Wine tasting at Kozlović + lunch (Momjan) — Winery with panorama, followed by lunch in a hinterland Konoba with Fuži and truffles. 15€ + 15–25€.
Tipp
The best culinary travel time for Istria is October/November: The white truffle season is at its peak, the new olive oil vintage arrives, the grape harvest is just over, and the tourist crowds are gone. Plus: pleasant 15–20°C, perfect for hiking and cycling in the hinterland.
Stadtrundgang
Römisches Pula
From the Arena over the Forum to the Arch of Triumph — 2,000 years of history on a walk.
Arena (Amphitheater)
Start at the largest preserved structure. Spend 30–45 minutes inside, don't miss the underground exhibition.
30–45 min.Double Gate (Porta Gemina)
Double-arched Roman city gate from the 2nd/3rd century.
5 min.Hilltop Castle
Venetian star fortress with a 360° panoramic view over Pula and the harbor.
10 min.Small Roman Theater
Atmospheric ruin on the north side of the castle hill. Hardly visited.
5 min.Forum & Temple of Augustus
Pula's main square for 2,000 years. Coffee at the café on the square.
15 min.Mosaic of Dirce
Hidden Roman floor mosaic from the 3rd century.
5 min.Arch of the Sergii
Elegant arch from 29 BC with the James Joyce statue in front.
5 min.Promenade & Market
End at Sergijevaca Street and the market. Pršut, cheese, truffle products.
15 min.War dieses Kapitel hilfreich?
