Pula
Istria's largest city (57,000 inhabitants) is not a pretty tourist town — Pula is a lively, somewhat rough working city with a 3,000-year history simmering beneath the surface. The Romans made Pula the most important city in Istria and left behind an amphitheater, which today is one of the best-preserved in the world. There is also a Temple of Augustus, an Arch of Triumph, and early Christian mosaics.
Pula has less postcard charm than Rovinj or Poreč, but more authenticity, lower prices, and real city life. Most tourists only come for the Arena — a mistake. Those who take their time will discover excellent restaurants, a lively café culture, and the most beautiful bathing bays in Istria on the nearby Cape Kamenjak peninsula.
Plan at least 2 full days: one for the city, one for Cape Kamenjak or the Brijuni Islands.
Sights
★★★ Arena (Amphitheater)
The landmark of Pula and Istria — the sixth-largest preserved Roman amphitheater in the world. Built between 27 BC and 68 AD under the emperors Augustus and Vespasian, it once held 23,000 spectators for gladiator fights. The outer wall (132 × 105 m, up to 32 m high) is still almost completely intact — three stories of arches made of Istrian limestone, glowing golden in the evening light.
In the underground is an exhibition on olive oil trade and wine production in antiquity — surprisingly interesting. In summer, concerts and the film festival take place in the arena: Sting, Elton John, Andrea Bocelli, and Foo Fighters have performed here. A concert in the arena at sunset is an unforgettable experience.
Admission: 10€ (adults), 5€ (children 7–18), under 7 free. April–September: 8 AM–9 PM (July/August until 11 PM). October–March: 9 AM–5 PM. Audioguide 5€ (worth it). Concert tickets: 30–80€, via Eventim.hr.
💡 Tipp
Come in the morning at opening (8 AM) or in the evening from 7 PM — then the arena is almost empty and the light is perfect. The evening lighting of the arena (from dusk) is freely visible from outside and spectacular.
Other Sights
★★ Temple of Augustus (Augustov Hram)
At the Forum (main square) stands this exquisitely preserved Roman temple from the 1st century — dedicated to the goddess Roma and Emperor Augustus. One of the best-preserved Augustan temples outside Rome. Small but perfectly proportioned. Inside, a small collection of Roman stonework and sculptures.
3€. May–September: 9 AM–9 PM. October–April: only with guided tours.
★★ Triumphal Arch of the Sergii (Slavoluk Sergijevaca)
This elegant triumphal arch from 29 BC was once part of the city gate (Porta Aurea). Built by Salvia Postuma Sergia in honor of three family members who fought in the Battle of Actium. Elaborate Corinthian columns and reliefs with garlands, sphinxes, and eagles. James Joyce (who lived in Pula in 1904–05) is said to have spent his evenings at a café next to the arch — today a bronze statue of Joyce sits on a chair in front.
Free access, 24/7.
★★ Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary
Located directly by the sea, on the foundations of a Roman temple and an early Christian basilica from the 5th century. The freestanding bell tower was partially built from stones of the arena. Inside: remains of beautiful Byzantine floor mosaics from the 5th/6th century.
Free. Daily 8 AM–6 PM.
★ Historical and Maritime Museum (Povijesni i Pomorski Muzej)
In the Venetian castle on the hill above the city. The fortress itself (17th century) is more impressive than the exhibition. But the 360° panoramic view over Pula, the harbor, and the offshore islands is worth the climb alone.
6€. Daily 9 AM–8 PM (summer), 9 AM–5 PM (winter).
★ Aquarium Pula
In the Austro-Hungarian fortress Verudela, 3 km south of the center. Around 200 native Adriatic species plus a sea turtle rescue station. Especially good for families with children — the touch pool is a highlight.
10€ (adults), 6€ (children). June–September: 9 AM–10 PM. Otherwise shorter.
★ Ambrela Beach (Plaža Ambrela)
Pula's most popular city beach on the Verudela peninsula, 3 km south. Pebble beach with concrete platforms, clear water, beach bar, sunshade rental. Bus No. 2A from the center.
Mosaic of the Punishment of Dirce
Hidden behind a parking lot wall in Ul. Sergijevaca: an astonishingly well-preserved Roman floor mosaic from the 3rd century depicting the punishment of Dirce. Hardly visited, freely accessible.
Small Roman Theater
On the hill below the castle: the remains of a small Roman theater from the 2nd century. Less spectacular than the arena, but atmospheric and deserted.
City Walk: Roman Pula
Duration: approx. 90 minutes | Distance: approx. 2 km | Best time: Mornings from 9 AM
1. Arena (Start)
Start at the amphitheater. Admire the dimensions from outside, then go inside and see the underground exhibition. 30–45 minutes.
2. Double Gate (Porta Gemina)
5 minutes on foot south: double-arched Roman city gate from the 2nd/3rd century. Behind it begins the ascent to the castle.
3. Castle (Fortress)
On the highest point of the old town. Venetian star fortress with panoramic view. Briefly go in for the view, the museum is optional.
4. Small Roman Theater
Directly below the castle on the north side. Atmospheric ruin, hardly visited.
5. Forum with Temple of Augustus
Down the hill to the Forum — Pula's main square for 2,000 years. Admire the Temple of Augustus, coffee at the café on the square.
6. Mosaic of Dirce
2 minutes north of the Forum: the hidden Roman floor mosaic. Easy to overlook — watch for the signage.
7. Triumphal Arch of the Sergii
Continue through the pedestrian zone. At the arch, the Joyce statue for a photo, then through the arch.
8. Promenade & Market (End)
Along Sergijevaca Street (Pula's shopping street) to the market. Fresh fruit, cheese, Istrian pršut, truffle products. Perfect ending.
💡 Tipp
The arena offers combo tickets with the Temple of Augustus and the mosaic (15€ instead of 16€ individually). There is good espresso at the Forum — Pula has a pronounced café culture thanks to its Italian and Austrian past.
Eating & Drinking in Pula
€ Budget (Main course under 12€)
Jupiter · Castropola 42
Pula's best pizzeria for decades. Wood-fired pizza, huge portions, local draft beer. Always full — locals and tourists alike.
6–12€ · Daily 11 AM–11 PM
Market Caffe · Tržnica (Market Hall)
In the historic market hall: simple, fresh dishes — fried fish, sardines, salads. Authentic atmosphere among the market stalls.
5–10€ · Mon–Sat 7 AM–3 PM
Pekarna (Bakery) · Flanatička 16
For the best burek in town: börek with meat, cheese, or spinach. Plus a yogurt. Breakfast for under 4€.
2–5€ · Daily 6 AM–10 PM
€€ Mid-range (Main course 12–25€)
Konoba Batelina · Čimulje 25, Banjole (4 km south)
Legendary fish restaurant, regularly awarded as one of the best in Croatia. No menu — owner Davorka brings what's fresh. Multi-course fish menu with surprise dishes. Reservation required, at least 3 days in advance!
25–40€ (for a full menu) · Tue–Sat 12–10 PM · ★★★
Konoba Frateria · Trg Portarata 5
In the middle of the old town, yet authentic. Istrian specialties: Fuži with truffles, black risotto, pršut platter. Beautiful courtyard in summer.
12–22€ · Daily 11 AM–11 PM · ★★
Kantina · Flanatička 16
Modern bistro style with Istrian products. Fantastic truffle pasta, seafood linguine, good wine selection. Younger crowd, relaxed atmosphere.
10–20€ · Mon–Sat 12–11 PM · ★★
Vodnjanka · Vitezićeva 4
Traditional Istrian cuisine: Maneštra (vegetable stew), Fritaja (omelet with wild asparagus), grilled fish of the day. Family-run, warm-hearted.
10–18€ · Mon–Sat 11 AM–10 PM
€€€ High-end (Main course 25€+)
Milan · Stoja 4
Fine dining in a relaxed atmosphere. Tasting menu with 5–7 courses, each course an Istrian masterpiece: truffles, seafood, game from the hinterland. Excellent wine list with Istrian rarities.
40–70€ (menu) · Tue–Sat 6–11 PM · ★★★ · Reservation!
Cafés & Bars
Cvajner · Forum 2 — Coffee at the Forum with a view of the Temple of Augustus. Espresso like in Italy, 1.50€.
Cabahia · Sisplac 7 — Craft beer bar with 12 taps, including local breweries. Backyard garden.
Uliks · At the Triumphal Arch — Named after James Joyce (Ulysses). Craft cocktails next to the Joyce statue.
Accommodation in Pula
€ Budget (under 50€/night)
Crazy House Hostel · Šijanska 6
Popular hostel with colorful design, communal kitchen, and rooftop terrace. Dorm from 18€, private room from 45€. 10 min walk to the arena.
Apartments Maslina · Verudela
Simple, clean apartments with kitchen, 5 min to Ambrela Beach. Studio from 40€/night. Ideal for self-caterers.
€€ Mid-range (50–120€/night)
Hotel Galija · Epulonova 3
Centrally located boutique hotel in a renovated townhouse. Modern rooms, 3 min to the arena. Double room from 70€ including breakfast.
Park Plaza Arena · Verudela
Large family hotel on Verudela. Pool, animation, private beach, sports facilities. Double room from 90€. Ideal with children.
€€€ High-end (120€+/night)
Hotel Valsabbion · Pješčana Uvala IX/26
Istria's flagship — boutique hotel with the best restaurant in town. Right by the sea, minimalist design, excellent service. Suite from 180€.
Practical Info Pula
Arrival
- Pula Airport (PUY): 6 km northeast. In summer, direct flights from Germany (Eurowings, Ryanair, Wizz Air from Berlin, Cologne, Düsseldorf, Munich, Frankfurt-Hahn). Shuttle bus 5€ (30 min), taxi 15–20€.
- Bus: Zagreb 3.5–4h (18–28€), Rijeka 1.5–2h (10–15€), Rovinj 45 min (5–7€), Trieste 2h (12€).
- Car: A9 (Istrian Ypsilon) to Pula. Toll required (~8€ from Slovenia/Umag). Free parking at the stadium (15 min walk to the center).
Orientation
Pula is compact. The arena is at the northern edge of the old town, the Forum (main square) in the center, the harbor in the southwest. Everything is within walking distance. The beaches (Verudela, Stoja) are 3–4 km south — bus 2A or 3A.
Tourist Information
Forum 3. Mon–Fri 8 AM–8 PM, Sat/Sun 9 AM–4 PM (summer longer). Free city maps and event calendars.
Achtung
Pula has a parking problem: In the season, all parking spaces in the center are chargeable (1–2€/h) and often full. Use the large free parking lot at the Aldo Drosina Stadium or at the Max City shopping center.