Rijeka
Rijeka (128,000 inhabitants) is Croatia's third-largest city and the most important port in the country. For a long time, the industrial city was overlooked by tourists — unjustly. Since being named the European Capital of Culture 2020 (extended to 2021 due to the pandemic), Rijeka has reinvented itself: Former industrial buildings have become cultural centers, street art adorns the facades, and a lively creative scene pulses in the neighborhoods around the port.
Rijeka is not a classic beauty — the city is rough, authentic, and full of contrasts. Habsburg splendor buildings stand next to socialist architecture, elegant coffee houses next to underground bars. This is exactly what makes the charm: Rijeka feels real, not staged.
As a transport hub with an airport (on Krk), ferry terminal, and highway connection, Rijeka is also an ideal starting point for exploring the Kvarner islands.
Sights
★★ Trsat Castle (Gradina Trsat)
High above the city, the Trsat fortress sits on a 138m high hill with a breathtaking panoramic view over the entire Kvarner Bay, Rijeka, and the islands of Krk and Cres. The castle dates back to the 13th century and was converted into a romantic summer palace by Austrian Field Marshal Laval Nugent in the 19th century — including a Greek temple in the garden. Today: open-air concerts in summer, gallery, and a café on the castle walls.
The ascent via the Petar Kružić Staircase (561 steps!) begins in the city center at Titov trg and has been a pilgrimage route since the 15th century. Alternatively: Bus 2 to Trsat.
Free entry. Daily 9–21 (summer), 9–17 (winter). Café on the walls Mon–Sun 9–23.
★★ Korzo (Main Promenade)
Rijeka's bustling pedestrian zone — a 500m long promenade from the city tower to the harbor district. Elegant Austro-Hungarian facades, street cafés, boutiques, and the hustle and bustle of a real port city. All of Rijeka meets here for Špica (the Croatian ritual of seeing and being seen). The City Tower (Gradski toranj), Rijeka's landmark, with an 18th-century clock, also stands on the Korzo.
Freely accessible, always lively.
★ Cathedral Sv. Vida (Rijeka Cathedral)
Unusual round baroque church from the 17th century — one of the few round churches in Croatia. Inside, a Gothic crucifix attributed with miraculous powers: Legend has it that it bled when a player angrily threw a stone at it.
Freely accessible. Daily 7–12 and 16–19.
★ City Market (Tržnica)
Rijeka's splendid market hall (1880) is a secessionist jewel. On the ground floor fish (can't get fresher — the fishermen deliver directly in the morning), on the upper floor fruit, vegetables, cheese, honey, herbs. Behind it, a flower market and the farmers' market. A must-visit for gourmets.
Mon–Sat 7–14, fish market from 6. Saturdays largest and liveliest.
★ Governor's Palace (Muzej moderne i suvremene umjetnosti)
The neoclassical palace (1893) at the harbor houses the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art. Changing exhibitions of Croatian and international artists, plus a permanent collection with works from Klimt to contemporary video installations. The building alone is worth seeing — opulent stairs, chandeliers, stucco.
5€. Tue–Sun 10–20 (summer), 10–18 (winter). Closed on Mondays.
★ Peek & Poke — Museum of Informatics
Unique museum in the center with a collection of historical computers and game consoles — from the Commodore 64 to the Atari, all to touch and play. Surprisingly entertaining, especially for families and retro fans.
5€ (children 3€). Mon–Sat 10–18. Ivana Grohovca 2.
Astronomical Path (Astronomska Staza)
A scale model of our solar system along the Lungomare from Rijeka — the sun at the beginning, Pluto 6 km further. Perfect for a walk with children: astronomy lesson under the open sky.
European Capital of Culture 2020 — The Legacy
The designation of Rijeka as the European Capital of Culture 2020 has sustainably transformed the city. Although the pandemic prevented many events, the infrastructure investments remained:
Rikard Benčić (former industrial building) — converted into a cultural complex with the city museum, children's library, and exhibition spaces. Modern design in historic walls.
Exportdrvo — former timber warehouse at the harbor, now a venue for concerts, theater, and festivals by the water.
Street Art — all over the city: large-format murals that emerged during the Capital of Culture year. Especially abundant in the neighborhood around Ulica Ante Starčevića.
Astronomical Park Risnjak — nearby: Croatia's first Dark-Sky Park in Risnjak National Park, perfect for stargazing.
Rijeka's cultural identity is shaped by its industrial past and multi-ethnic history: Italians, Croats, Hungarians, Austrians — all have left their mark. This diversity makes the city unique to this day.
Carnival in Rijeka
The Rijeka Carnival is the largest carnival in Croatia and one of the largest in Europe — the most significant on the Adriatic after Venice. Officially since 1982, the traditions date back to the 19th century.
The highlight is the International Carnival Parade on the last Sunday before Ash Wednesday: Over 10,000 participants and up to 100,000 spectators celebrate on the Korzo and through the city center. Imaginative floats, colorful costumes, samba groups, and confetti everywhere.
Particularly fascinating are the Zvončari (bell ringers) — masked men in sheepskins who wear huge cowbells around their waists and make an ear-splitting noise. This pre-Christian custom is meant to drive away winter and is protected as UNESCO cultural heritage.
The carnival spans several weeks (January–February): balls, children's parades, mask competitions, street festivals. The whole city is in a state of exception.
💡 Tipp
Book a hotel in Rijeka for the carnival parade at least 3 months in advance! The best spots to watch are on the Korzo — arrive early (from 10 am) and secure your position. The parade starts around 1 pm.
Food & Drink in Rijeka
€€ Konoba Fiume
Authentic konoba in the center with daily fish offerings directly from the market. Black risotto, scampi na buzaru, grilled orada — all fresh, all honest. The wine list focuses on local drops. Lunch menu for under 10€.
12–22€ · Ul. Ante Starčevića 2 · Tue–Sat 11–23
€€ Bistro Morčić
Modern bistro on the Korzo, named after Rijeka's landmark (the Morčić, a Moor's head earring). Creative fusion cuisine with Dalmatian-Mediterranean influences. Squid burger, truffle pasta, plus local craft beers. Young, lively atmosphere.
10–20€ · Korzo 22 · Mon–Sat 10–23, Sun 12–22
€ Konoba Nebuloza
Student locale on the stairs to Trsat — affordable, tasty, atmospheric. Ćevapi, grilled vegetables, huge salads. In summer on the terrace with views over the rooftops.
6–12€ · Stube Petra Kružića 2 · Mon–Sat 10–22
€ Kavana Filodrammatica
Historic café from 1885 on the Korzo — Rijeka's answer to the Viennese coffee house. High ceilings, marble tables, newspaper stands. Perfect for a cappuccino and a piece of cake in the afternoon.
3–8€ · Korzo 28 · Daily 7–23