Discover Zagreb

Zagreb is surprisingly compact. Most sights are within a 2 km radius and are easily accessible on foot.

• Gornji Grad (Upper Town): The medieval heart of Zagreb on the hill. St. Mark's Church, Lotrščak Tower, Stone Gate, Museum of Broken Relationships. Accessible by funicular or via stairs. Here you breathe history.
• Kaptol: The cathedral hill directly next to Gornji Grad, historically the rival settlement. Zagreb Cathedral, Dolac Market, Archbishop's Palace. Today seamlessly merged with the Upper Town.
• Donji Grad (Lower Town): The "new town" from the 19th century in a grid pattern, laid out after the Viennese model. Splendid buildings, parks, theaters, museums, and cafés along the famous Green Horseshoe (Lenuci's Horseshoe — a U-shaped chain of squares and parks).
• Tkalčićeva: The nightlife mile between Upper and Lower Town. Former red-light district, today an uninterrupted chain of cafés, bars, and restaurants.
• Maksimir: In the east: huge English landscape park (316 ha) with the Zagreb Zoo. Perfect for half a day of nature.
• Jarun: In the southwest: artificial lake with beaches, sports facilities, and the trendiest clubs in the city. Zagreb's summer hotspot.
• Novi Zagreb (New Zagreb): South of the Sava, across the river: socialist housing, Museum of Contemporary Art, Zagreb Arena. Interesting for architecture fans, otherwise not a must-see.

★★★ Museum of Broken Relationships

Zagreb's most famous museum — and one of the most unusual in the world. Founded by a Zagreb artist couple after their own breakup, it collects objects of failed relationships from around the world, each with a personal story. A wedding dress from Bosnia, an axe from Berlin (used to chop up the ex's furniture), a toaster from the USA. It is alternately heartbreaking, funny, and profound — and you leave the museum a more thoughtful person.

The museum is headquartered in the baroque Kulmer Palace in the Upper Town and now has branches in Los Angeles and other cities worldwide.

Ćirilometodska 2, Gornji Grad. 7€ (students 5€). June–Sept: 9 a.m.–10:30 p.m., Oct–May: 9 a.m.–9 p.m. Audio guide 2€ (worth it!). Duration: 60–90 min.

★★★ Dolac Market

Zagreb's "belly" — the central farmers' market, held daily since 1930. On a terrace above Kaptol Square, a sea of red umbrellas spreads over fruit, vegetable, and flower stalls. The peasant women from the surrounding area sell seasonal fruits and vegetables, homemade cheese (Turoš!), honey, pumpkin seed oil, and Štrukli (filled pastries).

Below the open-air market is the covered fish hall with fresh fish from the coast and rivers. In the basement: a small meat market with local sausages and Pršut.

Dolac 9. Mon–Sat 6 a.m.–2 p.m., Sun 6 a.m.–12 p.m. (only fruit/vegetables). The market is most lively in the morning between 7 and 10 a.m.

★★ St. Mark's Church (Crkva Sv. Marka)

The most photographed building in Zagreb — not because of its architecture (Romanesque-Gothic, 13th century), but because of its spectacular tiled roof with the colorful glazed coats of arms of Croatia, Dalmatia, Slavonia (left), and the city of Zagreb (right). The church stands on St. Mark's Square, flanked by the Sabor (Parliament) and the Banski Dvori (Government House). The changing of the guard on Saturdays at 12 p.m. is ceremonial.

Trg Sv. Marka. Interior only open for services. Viewable from outside, 24/7.

★★ Lotrščak Tower (Kula Lotrščak)

The medieval defense tower from the 13th century is known for its daily noon cannon shot ritual: Every day at exactly 12 p.m., a cannon shot is fired — a tradition since 1877 when it was used to synchronize church bells. At the top: a small viewing platform with a panoramic view of Zagreb.

Strossmayerovo šetalište 9. 4€. April–Oct: 9 a.m.–9 p.m., Nov–March: 11 a.m.–7 p.m. TIP: Be there at 11:55 a.m. and experience the cannon shot up close.

★★ Mirogoj Cemetery

Europe's most beautiful cemetery — that sounds strange, but it's true. The monumental arcade complex (1876, architect Hermann Bollé) with its ivy-covered arcades, domes, and sculptures is a work of art. Here lie Croatian writers, politicians, artists, and scientists. All denominations share the place: Orthodox crosses next to Catholic angels, Jewish tombstones next to Muslim ones.

In autumn, when the leaves change color and fog drifts over the arcades, Mirogoj is simply magical.

Aleja Hermanna Bolléa 27. Free. Open daily 6 a.m.–8 p.m. (summer), 7:30 a.m.–6 p.m. (winter). Bus 226 from Kaptol (10 min.).

★★ Croatian National Theatre (HNK)

The magnificent neo-baroque building (1895) was designed by the Viennese architects Helmer & Fellner — the same ones who also built the opera in Vienna and the Odeon in Bucharest. Emperor Franz Joseph I personally drove the first nail. In front of the building: Ivan Meštrović's Fountain of Life (1905), one of his most famous sculptures. Inside: opera, ballet, and drama in a splendid setting.

Trg Maršala Tita 15. Tours: 5€ (Mon–Fri 11 a.m., if no rehearsals). Evening performances from 10€ (!!!). Program check: hnk.hr

★★ Zagreb Cathedral (Katedrala)

The Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary is Zagreb's landmark — its 108-meter-high neo-Gothic twin towers are visible from everywhere in the city. Originally built in the 13th century, it was rebuilt in the neo-Gothic style by Hermann Bollé after the devastating earthquake of 1880. The earthquake of March 22, 2020, severely damaged the south tower — restoration is ongoing (the top is currently scaffolded).

Inside: the sacristy with frescoes from the 13th century, the sarcophagus of Cardinal Stepinac, and the baroque altars.

Kaptol 31. Free. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–5 p.m., Sun 1–5 p.m. Note: Due to earthquake damage, parts of the cathedral are still under reconstruction.

★★ Stone Gate (Kamenita Vrata)

The last remaining city gate passage from the 13th century connects the Upper Town with the Lower Town. Inside is a small chapel of Our Lady with a miraculous Madonna image that is said to have survived the fire of 1731 unscathed. Candles burn around the clock, believers pause to pray as they pass by. An astonishingly reverent place in the midst of the city's hustle and bustle.

Kamenita ul. Free, 24/7. Quiet passage, no loud photography.

★ Art Pavilion (Umjetnički Paviljon)

The yellow Art Nouveau pavilion (1898) on Tomislavov Trg was Croatia's first exhibition building. Changing art exhibitions of contemporary and modern art. The building itself — originally built for the Millennium Exhibition in Budapest and then transported to Zagreb — is the real highlight.

Trg kralja Tomislava 22. 5€. Tue–Sun 11 a.m.–7 p.m., closed on Mondays.

★ Botanical Garden

A green oasis in the middle of the Lower Town, part of the "Green Horseshoe". 50,000 plant species on 4.7 hectares, established in 1889. Particularly beautiful: the Victorian greenhouses and the English landscape garden. Perfect for a break from sightseeing.

Marulićev trg 9a. Free. Mon–Tue 9 a.m.–2:30 p.m., Wed–Sun 9 a.m.–6 p.m. (summer), shorter in winter. Closed November–March.

★ Museum of Contemporary Art (MSU)

On the other side of the Sava in Novi Zagreb: a futuristic building (2009) with the most significant collection of contemporary art in Southeast Europe. 600+ works by Croatian and international artists. The architecture alone is worth a visit — and the rooftop terrace offers a surprising view over the city.

Avenija Dubrovnik 17, Novi Zagreb. 5€ (Tue free). Tue–Sun 11 a.m.–7 p.m. (Sat/Sun until 8 p.m.). Tram 6 or 7 from the main station.

★ Nikola Tesla Technical Museum

Named after Croatia's most famous inventor: interactive exhibitions on energy, transport, space travel, and of course Tesla's work. Highlight is the Tesla demonstration with real high-voltage experiments — sparks fly, hair stands on end, children are amazed. The historical mine in the basement (a replica of an ore mine) is also fascinating.

Savska cesta 18. 4€ (Tesla demo: +2€). Tue–Fri 9 a.m.–5 p.m., Sat–Sun 9 a.m.–1 p.m. Tesla demo: Tue–Fri 3:30 p.m., Sat 11 a.m.

★ Zrinjevac Park

The most elegant park in the Lower Town and the first link of the Green Horseshoe. Old plane trees, a music pavilion from the 19th century, a meteorological pavilion with historical measuring instruments, and in winter one of the most beautiful Christmas market locations. Here, the people of Zagreb stroll on Sundays.

Nikole Šubića Zrinskog. Free, 24/7.

Duration: 90 minutes | Distance: approx. 2 km | Best time: Morning, when the sun illuminates the roofs

1. Funicular Uspinjača (Start)
Start at the bottom of Tomićeva ul. The shortest funicular in the world (66 meters, 55 seconds ride) has been taking you up to the Upper Town hill since 1890. The ride every 10 minutes costs 0.66€ — and is Zagreb's most charming means of transport.

2. Lotrščak Tower
Right at the top station of the funicular. If you're here just before 12: cover your ears! The daily cannon shot at exactly noon is loud — and tradition. Climb the tower for the first panoramic view of the day over all of Zagreb.

3. Strossmayerovo šetalište
The promenade along the old city wall is Zagreb's most romantic walk. Benches under old chestnut trees, street artists, a small open-air café. In summer, concerts and film screenings take place here. View over the red roofs of the Lower Town.

4. Meštrović Atelier
Mletačka 8. The atelier of Croatia's most important sculptor Ivan Meštrović in his former residence (17th century). Intimate exhibition of his wood and bronze works. Small but impressive. 5€.

5. Museum of Broken Relationships
Ćirilometodska 2. The highlight of the Upper Town — plan at least 45 minutes. Take your time to read the stories. Each exhibit tells of love and loss, and it is impossible not to be touched.

6. St. Mark's Church
Trg Sv. Marka. The colorful coat of arms roof shines in the sun. To the right the Sabor (Parliament), to the left the Banski Dvori (Government House). Changing of the guard on Saturdays at 12 p.m. — a folkloric spectacle.

7. Museum of Naive Art (Muzej Naive Umjetnosti)
Ćirilometodska 3, right next to the Museum of Broken Relationships. Croatia has a unique tradition of naive art — peasant painters from Zagorje who created masterpieces without training. Fascinating and surprising. 4€.

8. Stone Gate (Kamenita Vrata)
Through the Kamenita alley to the last remaining city gate. Pause briefly before the Madonna image and the burning candles. Even for non-religious people: the moment of silence in the middle of the city is touching.

9. Tkalčićeva ul. (View from above)
From Radićeva ul. the view opens down to the colorful Tkalčićeva Street — once a stream, then a red-light district, today the most popular promenade in Zagreb. Descend via the stairs.

10. Dolac Market (End)
Arrival at the "belly of Zagreb". Buy fresh fruit, have a coffee at one of the stands, watch the hustle and bustle. From here it's 2 minutes to the cathedral or 5 minutes back to Ban-Jelačić Square.

Duration: 60 minutes | Distance: approx. 2.5 km | Best time: Afternoon, when the parks are lively

1. Ban-Jelačić Square (Start)
Zagreb's central square and meeting point number one. The equestrian statue of Ban (Viceroy) Josip Jelačić from 1866 marks the center of the city. All tram lines intersect here. Around the square: shops, cafés, and access to Dolac Market.

2. Ilica
Turn into Ilica — Zagreb's longest and busiest shopping street (5.6 km!). Shops, bakeries, and cafés line up here. In the house passages (pasaži) hide courtyards with boutiques and coffee bars.

3. Trg Petra Preradovića (Flower Square)
Small square off Ilica with flower stalls and the café meeting point of Zagreb's bohemians. On the west side: the Serbian Orthodox Church of the Transfiguration with gilded icons.

4. Croatian National Theatre (HNK)
The neo-baroque splendid building on Trg Maršala Tita is a postcard motif. In front Meštrović's Fountain of Life — the bronze figures are wonderfully pathetic. If a performance is running: tickets are incredibly cheap (from 10€ for opera!).

5. Mimara Museum
Rooseveltov trg 5. Controversial collection — allegedly 3,700 works from Raphael to Renoir, but experts doubt the authenticity of many pieces. The building (1895) is still impressive and the collection entertaining. 8€.

6. Botanical Garden
Through Marulićev trg you reach the green oasis of the Botanical Garden. Sit on a bench by the pond, watch turtles and ducks, and let your mind wander. Free.

7. Main Station (Glavni Kolodvor)
The Art Nouveau station (1892) is worth seeing. In front the Tomislavov Trg — the most splendid of the horseshoe squares, with the equestrian statue of King Tomislav, the art pavilion in the background, and fountains left and right.

8. Zrinjevac Park (End)
The crowning conclusion: stroll back through the most elegant park in the Lower Town towards Ban-Jelačić Square. The old plane trees, the music pavilion, and — if it rains — the historical meteorological column from 1884 give this place its special charm.

Zagreb is an underrated gourmet city. The cuisine of Northern Croatia differs significantly from the Mediterranean coastal cuisine: here, Central European influences dominate — hearty stews, structure from the Austro-Hungarian tradition, game dishes, and desserts reminiscent of Vienna and Budapest. At the same time, Zagreb has a young, creative gastro scene that combines local traditions with modern techniques.

€ Budget (Main course under 10€)

Pingvin · Teslina 7
Since 1987 THE place for Burek and sandwiches. Tiny, always full, open until late at night. Perfect after a night out. Burek from 2€, sandwich 3–5€.
Open 24/7

Vincek Slastičarnica · Ilica 18
Zagreb's legendary confectionery since 1977. The Kremšnita (cream slice) is iconic, the ice cream is among the best in the city. Cakes 2–4€, ice cream from 1.50€/scoop.
Mon–Sat 8:30–11 p.m., Sun 10 a.m.–9 p.m.

Tip Top · Gundulićeva 18
Authentic Croatian home cooking in a restaurant that looks like a time capsule from the 1950s. Ćevapi, Sarma, grilled meat. Daily menu under 8€. Popular with workers and students.
Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–10 p.m.

La Štruk · Skalinska 5
Specializing in Štrukli — Zagreb's national dish: cheese-filled dough rolls, baked or boiled. In a charming old town house with only 6 tables. Štrukli from 5€, savory or sweet.
Open daily 11 a.m.–10 p.m.

Rocket Burger · Tkalčićeva 44
For the burger craving: juicy smash burgers with a Croatian twist (truffle mayo, Paški Sir). 7–10€. Terrace on Tkalčićeva.
Open daily 11 a.m.–11 p.m.

Heritage Croatian Food · Petrinjska 31
Modern fast-casual concept with traditional recipes: Zagorje strudel, Kulen sausage, seasonal soups. All under 10€, generous portions.
Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–10 p.m.

€€ Mid-range (Main course 10–25€)

Lari & Penati · Petrinjska 42a
One of Zagreb's best restaurants: modern Croatian bistro cuisine in a minimalist space with an open kitchen. The menu changes daily and is written on a board. Seasonal ingredients from the surrounding area, creative preparation. Reservation highly recommended!
12–20€ · Mon–Sat 12 p.m.–11 p.m.

Mundoaka Street Food · Petrinjska 2
Global street food mix in a relaxed atmosphere. Pulled pork, Thai curry, tacos — and all surprisingly good. Vegetarian-friendly. Always full at lunchtime.
8–15€ · Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–11 p.m., Sun 12–10 p.m.

Konoba Didov San · Mletačka 11, Gornji Grad
Rustic konoba in the Upper Town with stone walls and wooden beams. Specializing in game dishes (deer, wild boar) and Croatian classics like Peka. The mixed meat platter for two is a feast.
14–25€ · Open daily 11 a.m.–11 p.m.

Stari Fijaker 900 · Mesnička 6
Since 1900 (!) a Zagreb classic. Traditional Zagorje cuisine: Purica s mlincima (turkey with Mlinci noodles), Štrukli, Zagorski Štrukli. The interior with old photos tells the city's history.
12–22€ · Open daily 12 p.m.–11 p.m.

Mali Bar · Vlaška 63
Fish and seafood in the inland city! This tiny restaurant (8 tables) serves the freshest fish in Zagreb, delivered daily from the coast. No menu — the chef tells you what's available today. Reservation is a must.
15–25€ · Mon–Sat 12 p.m.–10 p.m.

Prasac · Vraniczanyeva 6
Craft beer gastropub with surprisingly good cuisine: slow-food burgers, BBQ ribs, homemade sausages. 12 taps with Croatian craft beers. Casual atmosphere.
10–18€ · Open daily 10 a.m.–12 a.m.

€€€ Upscale (Main course 25€+)

Noel · Ul. Franje Račkog 4
Zagreb's finest restaurant: Michelin-recommended, modern Croatian fine dining in the elegant interior of a former noble palace. Chef Tvrtko Šakota reinterprets Croatian classics — tasting menu from 80€, wine pairing from 45€.
Mon–Sat 12–3 p.m. + 7–11 p.m. · Reservation weeks in advance

Takenoko · Nova Ves 17
The best Japanese restaurant in Southeast Europe. Omakase menu (Chef's Choice, 7–12 courses), exceptional sushi, Wagyu. Minimalist-chic interior. From 50€.
Mon–Sat 12 p.m.–11 p.m. · Reservation recommended

Dubravkin Put · Dubravkin put 2
Fine dining in a park — the terrace under old trees is Zagreb's most romantic dinner spot. Seasonal Croatian haute cuisine, excellent wine list. Main course 25–40€.
Mon–Sat 12 p.m.–12 a.m. · Reservation recommended

Zinfandel's · Mihanovićeva 1 (Hotel Esplanade)
The restaurant in the legendary Hotel Esplanade has been serving upscale cuisine since 1925. Famous for the Štrukli tasting menu (yes, fine dining Štrukli!). Elegant Art Deco interior. From 35€.
Open daily 6:30 a.m.–11 p.m.

Cafés

Kogito Coffee · Varšavska 11
Zagreb's best specialty coffee roastery. Pour-over, V60, Aeropress — a must for coffee nerds. Flat White 3€. Bright, minimalist design.
Mon–Fri 7:30 a.m.–8 p.m., Sat 8 a.m.–3 p.m.

Velvet Café · Dežmanova 9
Hidden in a passage: a hipster living room with vintage furniture, books, and excellent cake. The courtyard in summer is a hidden gem.
Mon–Sat 8:30 a.m.–10 p.m., Sun 9:30 a.m.–8 p.m.

Johan Franck · Trg bana Jelačića 9
Since 1929 the Grande Café on the main square. Impressive Art Deco interior, terrace with a view of the square. A bit more expensive, but the place has style. Coffee 2.50–4€.
Open daily 7 a.m.–11 p.m.

Cafe u Dvorištu · Jurišićeva 22 (Courtyard)
Literally: "Café in the Courtyard". Hidden behind a house entrance, suddenly you stand in a cozy garden with gravel, wooden furniture, and fairy lights. Zagreb's courtyard culture at its best.
Mon–Sat 9 a.m.–11 p.m.

Palainovka · Ilica 73 (Courtyard)
Another hidden courtyard — this one with a small urban garden, craft lemonade, and acoustic sessions on weekends. Locals only, hardly any tourists.
Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–12 a.m.

Bars

Craft Room · Opatovina 35
Croatia's best craft beer bar: 40 taps with changing Croatian and international beers. Knowledgeable bartenders, flight tastings possible. 0.4l from 4€.
Open daily 10 a.m.–12 a.m. (Fri/Sat until 2 a.m.)

Cica Bar · Tkalčićeva 18
Legendary dive bar with basement charm, cat decor, and cocktails from 5€. The regulars are a mix of students, artists, and night owls. Small, loud, authentic.
Open daily 9 a.m.–2 a.m.

Alcatraz · Preradovićeva 1 (Courtyard)
Cocktail bar with a prison theme — bars, handcuff decor, but top mixology. The cocktails (8–12€) are creative and strong. The hidden courtyard in summer is magical.

Zagreb has the best nightlife in Croatia — more diverse than Hvar, cheaper than Dubrovnik, and more authentic than anything on the coast. The scene ranges from underground clubs in abandoned factory halls to jazz cellars to open-air parties at Lake Jarun. The night starts late (clubs fill up from midnight) and goes long (until 5–6 a.m.).

Clubs & Live Music

Culture Club Revelin · Katančićeva 5
Not to be confused with the Dubrovnik club: Zagreb's version is an underground techno temple with an international DJ lineup. Industrial ambiance, good sound system, entry 5–15€.
Fri–Sat 11 p.m.–5 a.m.

Aquarius · Jarun, Aleja Matije Ljubeka
Legendary open-air club at Lake Jarun — a Zagreb institution since the 90s. In summer: terrace right by the water, electro and house. In winter: indoor part with changing program. Entry 5–10€.
Fri–Sat 10 p.m.–5 a.m. (summer also Thu)

Vintage Industrial Bar · Savska 1 (Franck Factory)
In a former coffee factory: concerts, DJ sets, poetry slams, and film evenings. The creative heart of Zagreb's night culture. Program check on Facebook/Instagram.
Open daily 6 p.m.–2 a.m. (events longer)

KSET · Unska 3 (Student Center)
Student cultural club since 1957 — many Croatian bands started here. Punk, indie, electronic, alternative film screenings. Beer 2€, entry 3–8€. Authentic like nothing else.
Events mostly Thu–Sat

Bacchus Jazz Bar · Trg kralja Tomislava 16
Live jazz in a wine cellar vault — Friday and Saturday from 9 p.m. Good wine list, intimate atmosphere. No entry, but minimum consumption.
Mon–Sat 5 p.m.–1 a.m.

Swanky Monkey Garden · Ilica 50
Hostel bar with the coolest courtyard in the city: fairy lights, hammocks, DJ booth, and international backpacker crowd. The party runs every evening, free entry.

Dežman Bar · Dežmanova 3
Scene bar for the cultural elite of Zagreb: filmmakers, musicians, designers. Craft cocktails, occasional DJ sets, always good conversations. Small and exclusive (in the best sense).

Zagreb is not a shopping metropolis like Milan — but the mix of markets, designer stores, and traditional shops is unique and authentic.

Markets

Dolac Market · Dolac 9. The classic (see sights). For souvenirs: lavender sachets, pumpkin seed oil, honey, handmade Papreno — a gingerbread from Northern Croatia. Mon–Sat 6 a.m.–2 p.m.

Hrelić Flea Market · Sajmišna cesta, Novi Zagreb. Sundays from 7 a.m.–2 p.m., the largest flea market in Southeast Europe. Everything from Yugoslav memorabilia to vintage clothing, vinyl records, tools. Haggling is a must! Tram 7 to Savski Most, then bus.

Britanac Market · Britanski trg. Saturdays 7 a.m.–2 p.m.: antiques, books, vintage jewelry. Smaller, finer, and more manageable than Hrelić.

Shopping Streets

Ilica: Zagreb's main shopping street with chain stores, but also local boutiques. In the house passages (Pasaži) hide indie designers and second-hand shops — Oktogon (house no. 5, Art Deco passage) is the most beautiful.

Tkalčićeva: Besides the cafés, also small souvenir shops and galleries. Average quality, tourist prices.

Dežmanova / Varšavska: Hipster corner with concept stores, vinyl shops, and independent bookstores.

Special Shops

Aromatica · Vlaska 7 — Handmade natural cosmetics with Croatian herbs: lavender cream, immortelle oil, sea salt scrubs. Wonderful gifts, fair prices.

Borstein · Kaptol 19 — Croatia's best chocolate manufacturer. Truffles, pralines, chocolate with sea salt or lavender. From 5€ for a bar.

Take Me Home · Tomićeva 4 — Souvenir shop with Croatian design: no kitschy magnets, but modern posters, ceramics, T-shirts, and accessories with Zagreb references.

Croatia · Oktogon Passage, Ilica 5 — The original tie shop. The tie (cravate) was invented by Croatian mercenaries in the 30 Years' War — here you buy handmade silk ties as the ultimate Croatian souvenir. From 35€.

Typical Souvenirs from Zagreb

• Licitarsko Srce: Heart-shaped gingerbread, red decorated — UNESCO cultural heritage and THE Zagreb symbol. In every bakery and at Dolac.
• Pumpkin Seed Oil (Bučino Ulje): Dark green, nutty oil from Zagorje. At Dolac from 8€/bottle.
• Šljivovica: Plum brandy — Croatia's national schnapps. At Dolac directly from farmers, from 5€.
• Paprenjak: Spicy gingerbread, traditionally from Zagreb.
• Tie (Cravata): The original — see Croatia shop above.

Zagreb is one of the cheapest capitals in Europe for accommodations. Even central hotels cost a fraction of those in Vienna or Prague. The best location is between Ban-Jelačić Square and the main station — from here you can reach everything on foot.

€ Budget (under 40€/night)

Swanky Mint Hostel · Ilica 50
Award-winning design hostel in a converted textile factory. Courtyard with bar and pool (!), stylish dorms and private rooms. Social hostel — you meet people here. Dorm from 15€, double room from 45€.

Main Square Hostel · Radićeva 20
Directly at the connection between Upper and Lower Town, 2 minutes from Ban-Jelačić Square. Clean, friendly, good breakfast. Dorm from 18€.

Hostel Bureau · Vlaška 78
Quieter alternative in a residential street east of the center. Stylish interior, communal kitchen, garden. Dorm from 14€, private room from 40€.

€€ Mid-range (40–120€/night)

Hotel Jägerhorn · Ilica 14
Zagreb's oldest hotel (since 1827!) in the best location directly on Ilica, 1 minute from the main square. Renovated rooms with historical charm. Double room from 70€ with breakfast.

Hotel Academia · Tkalčićeva 88
Directly on the promenade — the location couldn't be better. Modern rooms above the rooftops of the old town. Rooftop terrace with city view. From 85€.

Studio Kairos · Vlašska 92
Stylish design apartments in a quiet residential area, 10 minutes' walk to the center. Kitchen, washing machine, everything you need for a longer stay. From 55€/night.

Hotel Palace · Trg J.J. Strossmayera 10
Elegant traditional hotel (1907) with Viennese flair in the Green Horseshoe. Renovated rooms, chandeliers in the breakfast room. From 90€.

€€€ Upscale (120€+/night)

Hotel Esplanade Zagreb · Mihanovićeva 1
Zagreb's Grande Dame — built in 1925 for passengers of the Orient Express. Art Deco splendor, legendary bar, Zinfandel's restaurant. Hitchcock, Elizabeth Taylor, and every Croatian state guest stayed here. From 160€. An experience, even if you just come for a drink at the bar.

Le Premier · Ul. Kneza Branimira 29
Modern luxury boutique hotel directly at the main station. Rooftop pool, spa, elegant suites. From 140€.

Hotel 9 · Klaićeva 9
Design hotel in a converted villa in the green district west of the center. Only 9 rooms, individually designed, personal service. From 130€. For those seeking peace who still want to be central.

Between 2016 and 2019, Zagreb was voted Europe's best Christmas market three times in a row — ahead of Vienna, Strasbourg, Nuremberg, and all others. No marketing trick: Advent u Zagrebu (late November to early January) is truly magical.

Why Zagreb?

It's not one Christmas market, but a dozen — the whole city transforms. From Zrinjevac over Ban-Jelačić Square to Europski Trg, from the Upper Town to Tomislavov Trg, it lights up, smells, and sounds Christmassy. Added to this is the special atmosphere: Zagreb in Advent is not overcrowded like the Western European mega-markets. It feels more like a big city festival where the people of Zagreb themselves are the main actors.

The main locations

• Zrinjevac: The elegant main location. Light tunnel of 230,000 LED lights, music pavilion with live performances, ice rink, mulled wine, and Kulen sausages.
• Ban-Jelačić Square: Giant Christmas tree, stage for concerts, stands with handicrafts.
• Europski Trg: Gourmet food court in Advent style: truffle cheese, wild goulash, Štrukli fresh from the oven.
• Strossmayerovo šetalište (Upper Town): The most romantic location — mulled wine at the viewing promenade, view over the illuminated Zagreb.
• Tomislavov Trg: Ice rink in front of the art pavilion — one of the most beautiful ice rinks in Europe, surrounded by fountains and the illuminated train station.
• Fooling Around (Stančićev Trg): Area for families with children: carousel, Santa's hut, puppet theater.
• Cathedral: Illuminated at night, with nativity scene and Advent concerts.

What to eat & drink in Advent

• Kuhano Vino: Croatian mulled wine — similar to the German one, often with mandarin and local spices. From 2€.
• Fritule: Small, fried dough balls with powdered sugar — the Croatian equivalent of Berlin pancakes. 3€ per portion.
• Kobasice: Grilled sausages, especially Kulen (spicy paprika sausage from Slavonia). 4–6€.
• Štrukli: Freshly baked at the stand — the perfect street food for cold evenings. 3–5€.
• Rakija: Croatian fruit brandy helps against the cold. Medica (honey Rakija) is the milder choice.

Practical tips for Advent

• Best time: First two weeks of December — the markets are set up but not yet crowded. It gets busy on the weekends before Christmas.
• Duration: 2 nights are enough for the markets + city sightseeing. 3 nights ideal for relaxed enjoyment.
• Weather: Zagreb in December: 0–5°C, often fog or light snow. Warm shoes, hat, gloves mandatory.
• Flights: Ryanair and Eurowings fly to Zagreb cheaply from Germany in winter. Often under 50€ return.
• Hotels: In Advent 20–40% more expensive than usual — book early! But still significantly cheaper than Vienna/Prague.

The surroundings of Zagreb are surprisingly diverse: medieval towns, thermal springs, castles, and nature — all within 1–2 hours reachable.

★★★ Samobor (25 km, 30 min.)

The most charming small town in Croatia, only 30 minutes west of Zagreb. Pastel-colored houses around the main square, a stream (Gradna) with stone bridges, cafés under chestnut trees, and — the real star — the legendary Samoborska Kremšnita: an airy cream slice that is only perfect here. The café "U Prolazu" on the main square has been serving it for generations.

Above: the castle ruins Stari Grad Samobor (30 min. ascent, beautiful view). In the surroundings: hiking in the Samoborsko-Gorje hill landscape.

Bus from Zagreb bus station every 20–30 min., 4€, 45 min. Or: 25 min. by car.

★★★ Varaždin (80 km, 1.5 hrs)

Croatia's number one baroque city — once the capital of Croatia (1756–1776), until a fire degraded it to a provincial town. Today: an incredibly well-preserved ensemble of baroque palaces, an imposing water castle (Stari Grad, 14th–16th century, now city museum), and the most beautiful cemetery in Europe after Mirogoj.

At the end of September/October, the Špancirfest takes place — a 10-day street festival with music, theater, and food on all the squares of the old town.

Bus from Zagreb every 30 min., 8–12€, 1.5–2 hrs. Train: 2.5 hrs (slower, but more scenic). Perfect for a day trip.

★★ Plitvice Lakes (Direction, 135 km, 2 hrs)

Not a typical day trip (actually too far and too much), but doable from Zagreb. The 16 emerald lakes and the 90+ waterfalls are Croatia's number one natural highlight (UNESCO). Organized tours from Zagreb (from 50€ including entry) are popular, but your own car is more flexible.

Bus: 2–2.5 hrs, from 12€. Car: A1 towards Split, exit Karlovac. Entry: 10–40€ depending on the season. Extremely crowded in summer — book online time slot!

Better: Stay 1 night on site (guesthouses from 40€) and experience the park at 7 a.m. when it's almost empty.

★★ Kumrovec & Hrvatsko Zagorje (50 km, 1 hr)

The Hrvatsko Zagorje is Zagreb's green hinterland: gentle hills, vineyards, thermal baths, and castles. Main attractions:

• Kumrovec: Birthplace of Josip Broz Tito. The Staro Selo Ethno-Museum is an entire restored village from the 19th century — blacksmith, potter, baker, wine cellar. Tito's birthplace is preserved. 5€.
• Veliki Tabor Castle: Fortified castle (15th century) on a hill with panoramic views over Zagorje. Medieval museum, in summer film festival at the castle. 5€.
• Terme Tuhelj / Stubičke Toplice: Thermal baths with warm water (30–33°C), ideal for relaxing after a day of sightseeing. Day ticket from 15€.

Best with a rental car (combination Kumrovec + Veliki Tabor + thermal baths = perfect day trip). Buses run irregularly.

★★ Medvednica (Sljeme, 10 km)

Zagreb's home mountain — directly north of the city, 1,035 m high. In winter: small ski area (yes, Zagreb has a ski slope!). In summer: hiking, mountain biking, and the medieval Medvedgrad Castle (13th century) with the Altar of the Homeland and sensational city views.

The ascent from the tram station Mihaljevac (bus 140 to Bliznec, then hike) takes about 1.5 hours to the summit. At the top: mountain huts with hearty cuisine (bean soup, goulash, Štrukli).

Bus 140 from Mihaljevac (tram 8/14). In winter ski bus on weekends. Medvedgrad free, accessible anytime.

Getting There

• Franjo Tuđman Airport (ZAG): 17 km southeast. Shuttle bus to the main bus station every 30 min. (8€, 35 min.). Taxi/Bolt 20–25€. Direct flights from Germany: Lufthansa (Munich, Frankfurt), Eurowings (Düsseldorf, Cologne, Stuttgart), Ryanair (Berlin, Cologne), Croatia Airlines (various).
• Main Station (Glavni Kolodvor): Centrally located at Tomislavov Trg. International trains to Ljubljana (2.5 hrs), Budapest (6 hrs), Vienna (6.5 hrs), Belgrade (6 hrs).
• Bus Station (Autobusni Kolodvor): 10-minute walk east of the main station. Buses throughout Croatia: Split (4.5–5.5 hrs, 15–25€), Dubrovnik (8–10 hrs, 25–40€), Zadar (3–3.5 hrs, 12–20€), Plitvice (2–2.5 hrs, 10–15€). Also international: Ljubljana, Sarajevo, Belgrade. Flixbus and local providers.
• Car: A1 towards Split/Dalmatia, A3 towards Slavonia/Belgrade, A2 towards Slovenia/Austria. Toll by ENC box or credit card.

Tram (Tramvaj)

Zagreb's tram network has 15 day and 4 night lines and covers the whole city. Most important for tourists:

• Tickets: Single ride 0.53€ at the kiosk (Tisak/iNovine), 0.66€ from the driver. Valid for 30 min. Day ticket 4€. ZET app (digital) possible.
• Important lines: Line 6 (main station → Črnomerec, along Ilica), Line 12/13 (circular route through the city center), Line 14 (Mihaljevac → Savski Most, towards Medvednica).
• Validation: Stamp ticket at the yellow machine in the tram! Inspectors are frequent, fine 50€.

Useful Addresses

• Tourist Information: Ban-Jelačić Square 11 (main office, daily 8:30 a.m.–8 p.m.) + Lotrščak Tower (Upper Town)
• Police (Emergency): 192
• Ambulance: 194
• General Emergency: 112
• KBC Zagreb (Hospital): Kišpatićeva 12 — largest clinic, 24h emergency room
• Pharmacy 24h: Ljekarna "Grad Zagreb", Trg bana Jelačića 3
• German Embassy: Ulica grada Vukovara 64 — Tel. +385 1 6300 100
• Exchange Offices: Since January 1, 2023, Croatia has the Euro (€) — Kuna no longer exists. Credit cards are accepted almost everywhere.

Safety

Zagreb is one of the safest capitals in Europe. Violent crime against tourists is practically unknown. Common sense is enough: don't leave valuables openly, watch out for pickpockets at Dolac Market, be cautious in unlit parks at night.

Earthquake 2020

On March 22, 2020, an earthquake with a magnitude of 5.5 hit Zagreb, the strongest in 140 years. The cathedral, many buildings in the Upper Town and in the Kaptol district were damaged. Restoration is ongoing — especially the cathedral is still partially scaffolded. This hardly affects the visit but can be visible in some streets. It is part of the current Zagreb history.

Zagreb in 2 Days — Recommended Plan

Day 1: Morning Dolac Market, then funicular up → Upper Town tour (Lotrščak, St. Mark's Church, Museum of Broken Relationships, Stone Gate) → Lunch on Tkalčićeva → Afternoon Lower Town (National Theatre, Green Horseshoe, Botanical Garden) → Evening: Špica strolling, then dinner.

Day 2: Morning Cathedral + Kaptol → Mirogoj Cemetery (bus, 1–1.5 hrs) → Lunch in the city → Afternoon: Museum of choice (Technical Museum / MSU / Mimara) or excursion to Samobor → Evening: Nightlife (Tkalčićeva → club).