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Regionen · Kapitel 7

North Luzon

Philippines Reiseführer

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RegionenKapitel 7: North Luzon
Regionen · Kapitel 7

North Luzon

The north of Luzon is the cultural and scenic counterbalance to the beach paradises of the Philippines — here you will find 2,000-year-old rice terraces, coffins carved into rocks, a perfectly preserved Spanish colonial town, and the cool mountain air of the Cordillera. To truly understand the Philippines, you must head north.

Banaue & Batad Rice Terraces (UNESCO)★★★

Banaue / Batad, Ifugao, Luzon
Viewpoints: tagsüber jederzeit
Umweltgebühr Banaue: 50 PHP, Guide: 500 PHP/Tag, Nachtbus Manila: ab 600 PHP

The rice terraces of Banaue and Batad are among the most spectacular cultural landscapes in the world — hand-carved steps that stretch across entire mountainsides, created by the Ifugao people over 2,000 years ago. A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1995 and often referred to as the "eighth wonder of the world."

The terraces were built without machines — only with stone, earth, and human endurance. A sophisticated irrigation system from the mountain peaks channels water down hundreds of steps. If all the terraces were lined up, they would cover a distance that would circle half the globe.

Banaue Viewpoint

The most famous view of the terraces is from the Banaue Viewpoint on the main road — a panorama depicted on the 1,000-PHP bill. The town of Banaue itself is a simple mountain town with basic amenities: small hotels, restaurants, guides.

Batad — The Amphitheater

The even more spectacular terraces are located in Batad — a remote village accessible only on foot (45–60 minutes descent from the saddle point). The terraces form a natural amphitheater that encircles the village in concentric circles — breathtakingly beautiful and significantly less visited than Banaue.

From Batad, a hiking trail (2 hours round trip) leads to the Tappiyah Falls — a 21-meter high waterfall with a natural swimming pool, framed by rice terraces and jungle. The hike leads over narrow rice terrace paths and is slippery when wet — sturdy footwear is a must.

Getting there: Night bus from Manila to Banaue (8–10 hours, from 600 PHP with Ohayami Trans or Coda Lines). From Banaue to Batad by jeepney or tricycle to the saddle point (45 minutes, 150 PHP), then on foot. Alternatively: flight to Cauayan or Tuguegarao + transfer.

Tipp

Stay overnight in Batad (homestays from 500 PHP) — experiencing the sunrise over the terraces is magical. The terraces are greenest (and most photogenic) from June to July when the rice is freshly planted. Hire a local Ifugao guide (500 PHP/day) — they know the best viewpoints and tell the story of their ancestors.

Achtung

The rice terraces are a living cultural heritage — the Ifugao still actively cultivate them. Do not step on the terrace walls, do not pick rice, and ask before photographing people. The preservation of the terraces is becoming increasingly difficult as young Ifugao migrate to the cities.

Sagada — Hanging Coffins & Caves★★

Sagada, Mountain Province, Luzon
Echo Valley: tagsüber, Sumaguing Cave: 8:00–15:00
Registrierung: 35 PHP, Guide Echo Valley: 500 PHP/Gruppe, Sumaguing Cave: 500 PHP/Person + Guide 800 PHP/Gruppe

Sagada is located at 1,500 meters altitude in the Cordillera and is a place that stimulates the imagination. The small mountain village of the Kankanaey-Igorot is famous for its hanging coffins — an ancient burial tradition where the dead are nailed in wooden coffins to limestone cliffs to be closer to the sky.

Hanging Coffins

The most impressive hanging coffins are located in Echo Valley — a short hiking trail (30 minutes) from the center leads to a cliff where dozens of coffins hang in various stages of decay. Some are centuries old, others fresh (the tradition is still practiced). The sight is both fascinating and awe-inspiring. A local guide is recommended and respectful of the culture.

Sumaguing Cave

The Sumaguing Cave (Big Cave) is the most spectacular cave in the Philippines: massive stalactites and stalagmites, an underground river, natural formations that resemble rice fields, curtains, and organ pipes. The tour lasts 2–3 hours and leads through narrow passages, over slippery rocks, and through knee-deep water. A guide with a gas lamp leads the way — an adventure of the highest order. For the brave: The Cave Connection connects Sumaguing Cave with the neighboring Lumiang Cave (4–5 hours, only with a guide).

Sagada as a Place

Sagada has maintained a quiet, almost meditative atmosphere. The climate is cool (bring a jacket!), the pine forests are reminiscent of European mountain regions, and the local coffee culture is surprisingly good. The Yoghurt House is the most famous institution — homemade yogurt, cakes, and the best view in town. At 5 AM, the Kiltepan Viewpoint offers a spectacular sunrise over the sea of clouds — if the weather is right, you can see the rice terraces of Sagada in the golden light.

Tipp

Register at the Tourist Information at the town entrance (mandatory, 35 PHP) — this is also where you will be assigned official guides. Sumaguing Cave: Rent neoprene socks (50 PHP) and bring a headlamp. The hanging coffins in Echo Valley are most atmospheric in the fog — and it's almost guaranteed in the morning.

Baguio — The Summer Capital

Baguio City, Benguet, Luzon
BenCab Museum: 120 PHP, Bus ab Manila: ab 500 PHP

Baguio at 1,500 meters altitude is the "summer capital" of the Philippines — the place where Manila escapes the heat. The American colonial government made the city the summer residence at the beginning of the 20th century, and this tradition has been maintained. The temperatures are pleasantly cool all year round (15–25 °C) — a shocking contrast to the humid lowlands.

For travelers, Baguio is primarily a stopover on the way to Sagada and Banaue. But the city has its own charms:

  • Burnham Park: The green center of the city with a lake for boating, bike paths, and the best strawberry shake in the Philippines.
  • Session Road: The main street with cafes, restaurants, and Baguio's nightlife. On Sundays, it becomes a pedestrian zone.
  • BenCab Museum: The best art museum outside Manila, founded by national artist Benedicto Cabrera. Modern Filipino art in a spectacular mountain setting.
  • Tam-awan Village: Reconstructed Igorot mountain village with art studios and a café with panoramic views.
  • Night Market (Harrison Road): Every evening from 9 PM — second-hand clothing (Ukay-Ukay), street food, and the busiest hustle and bustle in the city.

Getting there: Bus from Manila (Victory Liner or JoyBus, 5–6 hours, from 500 PHP). JoyBus offers reclining seats and WiFi — the most comfortable way.

Vigan — Spanish Colonial Town (UNESCO)★★

Vigan City, Ilocos Sur, Luzon
Calle Crisologo: 24/7 (Geschäfte 9–18 Uhr)
Kalesa: 150 PHP, Empanada: 25 PHP, Museen: 20–50 PHP

Vigan in the province of Ilocos Sur is the best-preserved Spanish colonial town in Asia — a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999 and the only city in the Philippines that largely survived the bombs of World War II unscathed. The old town (Calle Crisologo) is an 18th-century cobblestone dream: two-story stone houses with Capiz shell windows, wooden balconies, and lanterns that bathe the street in warm light in the evening.

Vigan is a mix of Spanish, Chinese, and Ilocano culture. The mestizo houses (Bahay na bato) combine Filipino wooden architecture with Spanish stone construction and Chinese influence in the floor tiles and porcelain decorations. The Vigan Cathedral (1574) is one of the oldest churches in the Philippines with a baroque facade in the earthquake baroque style (built to withstand earthquakes).

Other highlights:

  • Kalesa Ride: Horse-drawn carriage ride through the old town — the most romantic experience in Vigan (150 PHP for 30 minutes).
  • Burnay Pottery: Centuries-old pottery tradition — workshops where you can see pots and jars being made using traditional methods.
  • Empanada: Vigan's culinary landmark — crispy, orange pastries filled with minced meat, egg, and papaya. Best at Plaza Burgos (25 PHP/piece).
  • Bantay Bell Tower: Separate bell tower from the 18th century with a view over Vigan and the sea.

Getting there: Bus from Manila (8–10 hours, from 700 PHP with Partas or Florida Bus) or from Baguio (4–5 hours).

Tipp

Vigan is most beautiful in the early morning hours (before 8 AM) and at sunset, when the lanterns are lit and Calle Crisologo transforms into a movie set. Try the Vigan Empanada at Plaza Burgos — a culinary institution for generations.

La Union — Surfing near Manila

San Juan, La Union, Luzon
Surfstunde: 500 PHP (~8 €), Surfboard-Verleih: 200 PHP/Stunde, Unterkunft: ab 800 PHP

San Juan, La Union is the surf spot closest to Manila — only 5–6 hours by bus. For Manileños, it is the number one weekend surf destination, and it is also worthwhile for travelers who want to make a quick beach-and-surf getaway.

The waves at Urbiztondo Beach are gentle and ideal for beginners — perfect for learning. Surf lessons from 500 PHP (8 €) including board. In the rainy season (July–October), larger swells come that challenge even experienced surfers. The beach promenade has developed into a small party mile in recent years: beach bars, restaurants, surf shops, and a relaxed backpacker vibe.

La Union can be well combined with Baguio (1.5 hours by bus). First surfing on the beach, then cool mountain air in Baguio. The Tangadan Falls (20 minutes from San Juan) are a worthwhile half-day trip: hike through bamboo forest to a hidden waterfall with cliff jumping.

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