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Regionen · Kapitel 4

Palawan

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RegionenKapitel 4: Palawan
Regionen · Kapitel 4

Palawan

Palawan is regularly voted the "most beautiful island in the world" — and anyone who has snorkeled in the emerald lagoons of El Nido, dived the sunken shipwrecks of Coron, or navigated the underground river of Puerto Princesa will immediately understand why. This 450-kilometer-long island on the western edge of the Philippines is a natural wonder like no other.

El Nido — Lagoons & Island Hopping★★★

El Nido, Palawan
Island Hopping Touren: täglich 9:00–16:00
Touren: 1.200–1.500 PHP (~20–25 €) inkl. Lunch, Eco Fee: 200 PHP

El Nido is the jewel of the Philippines — a coastal town at the northern tip of Palawan, framed by dramatic limestone cliffs that rise vertically from the emerald sea. The name comes from the swallow nests (nido) harvested in the rock niches and exported as a delicacy to China.

The highlight is the Island Hopping Tours, divided into four standard routes:

  • Tour A (A must!): Big Lagoon (the most iconic — kayak through turquoise water between limestone rocks), Secret Lagoon (swim through a narrow gap), Shimizu Island (snorkeling), 7 Commando Beach (beach with volleyball net and bar). From 1,200 PHP (~20 €) including lunch.
  • Tour B: Snake Island (snake-shaped sandbar), Cudugnon Cave (cave with archaeological finds), Cathedral Cave, Pinagbuyutan Island. More adventure, fewer tourists.
  • Tour C: Hidden Beach (secluded beach, only accessible by boat), Matinloc Shrine (abandoned chapel on a cliff), Secret Beach (swim through a hole in the rock wall), Helicopter Island. The favorite of many travelers.
  • Tour D: Cadlao Lagoon, Pasandigan Beach, Nat Nat Beach, Bukal Beach. The quietest tour with fewer boats.

Away from the tours, El Nido offers spectacular sunsets from the beach (Las Cabanas Beach is the hotspot with a zipline over the water), excellent diving (turtles, rays, coral gardens), and a lively bar scene with beach bars right by the sea.

The town itself is small and walkable: A main street with restaurants, dive shops, and souvenir stores. The infrastructure has massively improved in recent years — there are now ATMs, fast internet, and even a small airport (Lio Airport, flights from Manila with AirSWIFT).

Tipp

Book Tour A and Tour C — these are the two best. Combine them on different days. Start at 9 AM to be in the lagoons before the crowds. Bring a waterproof bag for your phone and reef-safe sunscreen. The boatmen cook a surprisingly good lunch on the beach.

Achtung

El Nido has an environmental fee of 200 PHP (Eco Tourism Development Fee), valid for 10 days. Pay it at the office at the port — without the certificate, you cannot take any tours. Plastic bottles are banned in El Nido — bring a reusable bottle.

Coron — Shipwrecks & Lakes★★★

Coron, Busuanga Island, Palawan
Tauchshops: 7:00–18:00, Island Hopping: 8:00–16:00
Fundive: 1.800–2.500 PHP (~29–41 €), Island Hopping: 1.500–2.000 PHP (~25–33 €), Kayangan Lake Eintritt: 300 PHP

Coron on Busuanga Island is the diving paradise of the Philippines — and one of the best wreck diving sites in the world. On September 24, 1944, American planes sank a Japanese fleet in Coron Bay. Today, 12 Japanese shipwrecks lie at depths of 10–40 meters — covered with corals and inhabited by schools of tropical fish. An underwater museum like no other.

The most important wrecks for divers:

  • Irako: 150-meter-long refrigerated ship at 28–42 meters. The largest and most spectacular wreck, only for experienced divers (Advanced).
  • Akitsushima: Seaplane carrier with a still visible crane. At 20–38 meters.
  • Okikawa Maru: Oil tanker at 10–26 meters, also suitable for beginners. Huge schools of batfish.
  • Skeleton Wreck: Small, shallow wreck (5–25 meters) — perfect for Open Water divers.

But Coron is much more than diving. The Kayangan Lake is the postcard moment: A crystal-clear lake amidst limestone cliffs, accessible via a steep staircase. The water is a mix of fresh and saltwater with visibility up to 15 meters — you can see every stone on the bottom. The Barracuda Lake next door offers a surreal diving experience with thermoclines (alternating warm and cold water layers).

Island Hopping in Coron leads to the Twin Lagoons (two lagoons connected by an underwater tunnel), CYC Beach (powder-white sand beach), and the Siete Pecados (seven small islands with excellent snorkeling). Malcapuya Island and Banana Island offer picture-perfect beaches with fewer tourists.

Tipp

Book at least 3 dives if you are certified — the wrecks are all different and fascinating. For non-divers: An Open Water course in Coron (from 15,000 PHP/~245 €) using the wrecks as a training ground is a dream. Kayangan Lake is most peaceful when you arrive at 8 AM.

Puerto Princesa Underground River (UNESCO)★★★

Sabang, Puerto Princesa, Palawan
Täglich 8:00–16:00 (letzter Eintritt)
Permit + Bootsfahrt + Umweltgebühr: ca. 1.500–2.000 PHP (~25–33 €) über Tour-Operator

The Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park is home to the world's longest navigable underground river — 8.2 kilometers winding through a vast cave system beneath St. Paul Mountain. A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999 and one of the "New Seven Wonders of Nature" since 2012.

The boat ride covers the first 4.3 kilometers of the cave. The audio guide (on the boat) explains the gigantic stalactites and stalagmites that have grown over millions of years — some several stories high. The cave houses a huge colony of bats and swallows, whose sounds echo surreally in the darkness. The play of flashlights on the limestone formations creates bizarre shadow images — you can see cathedrals, faces, mushrooms, and entire landscapes.

The journey from Puerto Princesa city takes 1.5 hours to the port in Sabang, then 20 minutes by Bangka boat to the cave entrance. The entire excursion takes a whole day. The number of visitors is limited to 900 per day — a permit must be booked in advance at the City Tourism Office or through a hotel/tour operator.

Puerto Princesa itself is the capital of Palawan and a pleasant town: Clean, safe, with good restaurants and the lively Baywalk (waterfront promenade) for evening strolls. Tours to Honda Bay (island hopping with snorkeling) and onward travel to El Nido by van (5–6 hours) also start from here.

Tipp

Book the permit at least 1 week in advance (2–3 weeks in high season). The easiest way is through your hotel or a local travel agency. The first slot in the morning (8:00) is best — fewer boats in the cave and better light at the entrance.

Port Barton & San Vicente★★

Port Barton / San Vicente, Palawan
Unterkunft: 800–3.000 PHP (~13–49 €), Island Hopping: 800–1.200 PHP (~13–20 €)

For those looking to escape the hustle and bustle of El Nido, Port Barton and San Vicente offer the Palawan of ten years ago — quiet, untouched, and with the charm of a sleepy fishing village.

Port Barton

This tiny village on the west coast of Palawan is the perfect stopover between Puerto Princesa and El Nido. No ATMs (bring cash!), no nightlife, just a handful of simple accommodations right on the beach. Instead: excellent snorkeling right off the coast (turtles almost guaranteed!), affordable island hopping (800–1,200 PHP/~13–20 € for the whole day), and the most relaxed atmosphere in Palawan. In the evening, sit on the beach, drink San Miguel, and watch the fishermen dock.

San Vicente & Long Beach

San Vicente is located north of Port Barton and holds a secret: the Long Beach — at 14.7 kilometers, the longest contiguous beach in the Philippines. White sand, hardly any people, turquoise water. San Vicente has a small airport (flights from Manila with SkyJet) and is touted as the "next El Nido" — for now, it is still quiet and affordable.

The infrastructure is simple: A few beach resorts (from 1,500 PHP/~25 € for a beach house), local restaurants with fresh fish, and an unpaved road running along the beach. The perfect place to do absolutely nothing.

Tipp

Port Barton is accessible by van from Puerto Princesa (3 hours, 500 PHP). From Port Barton to El Nido, it's another 4 hours by van. Plan for at least 2 nights — the pace of the place takes time to take effect. Be sure to bring cash from Puerto Princesa or El Nido!

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