Tavira

Tavira is the most beautiful city in the Algarve — and the least touristy. While Lagos and Albufeira are dominated by beach tourists, Tavira has retained its authentic Portuguese character. The city on the Gilão River, 30 km east of Faro, enchants with over 30 churches (more than any other city in the Algarve), elegant Renaissance and Baroque facades, a Roman bridge, and an atmosphere reminiscent of the time before mass tourism.

The Ponte Romana (Roman Bridge) over the Gilão is Tavira's postcard motif — although the current structure dates from the 17th century (the Roman foundations lie beneath). From here, you have the best view of the Old Town with its white houses, characteristic hipped roofs (telhados de tesoura), and countless church towers. Locals sit in the cafes along the riverbank, watching the leisurely bustle.

The Old Town stretches on both sides of the river and is compact enough to explore everything on foot. On the hill above the city stands the Castelo de Tavira (free), a Moorish castle with a beautiful garden and panoramic views. The Igreja de Santa Maria do Castelo (13th century) right next door was built over a mosque and contains the graves of the seven Christian knights who fell during the city's reconquest in 1242. In the Núcleo Islâmico (entry €2) in the Old Town, fascinating finds from the Moorish period are exhibited — the Algarve was under Islamic rule for over 500 years.

Tavira's beach — the Ilha de Tavira — is a barrier sand island in the Ria Formosa and is one of the most beautiful beaches in the Algarve. The island is accessible by ferry (from the Quatro Águas ferry terminal, 2 km east of the Old Town, €2 round trip, every 15 minutes in summer) and offers kilometers of fine sandy beach that becomes increasingly deserted towards the west. At the eastern end, there are beach bars and restaurants; those who walk 15 minutes westward will have the beach almost to themselves.

Culinarily, Tavira is a gem. The Restaurante Ponto de Encontro (Praça Dr. António Padinha) serves the best tuna in the Algarve — Tavira was for centuries the center of Portuguese tuna fishing with the traditional armação (net trap). Try the Atum de cebolada (tuna with onion sauce, €15) or the Cataplana de marisco (seafood from the copper pot, for 2 people €35). For budget dining: The Tasca do Zé (Rua João Vaz Corte Real) offers daily menus from €8.50 with soup, main course, and coffee.