East Bali
Amed & the Northeast Coast
Amed is not a single place but a chain of seven small fishing villages along a 14 km coastal road in the far northeast of Bali. The area is what Bali was everywhere 30 years ago: quiet, simple, breathtakingly beautiful. Behind black volcanic beaches, the land rises steeply to the majestic Gunung Agung (3,142 m), while some of Bali's best diving and snorkeling spots lie offshore.
The villages—Amed, Jemeluk, Bunutan, Lipah, Lean, Selang, and Banyuning—traditionally live from fishing and salt production. The centuries-old tradition of sea salt production, where saltwater evaporates in hollowed-out palm trunks, is fascinating to watch and results in an aromatic flake salt now appreciated in gourmet restaurants worldwide.
Amed is the ideal place to slow down: snorkel in the morning, lie in a hammock in the afternoon, eat freshly grilled fish on the beach in the evening, and watch the sunset over Gunung Agung. The tourist infrastructure is deliberately kept small—no chains, no clubs, no hustle.
Plan at least 3-4 nights to truly enjoy the tranquility.
Tipp
The journey from South Bali takes 3-3.5 hours. Book a private driver (approx. 500,000-600,000 IDR) instead of a taxi—he can stop at Tirta Gangga or the Sidemen Gorge along the way. Alternatively, the Perama shuttle runs from Kuta/Ubud to Amed.
Snorkeling & Diving★★★
USAT Liberty Wreck (Tulamben)
Bali's most famous diving and snorkeling destination is just 25 minutes west of Amed: the USAT Liberty wreck, an American cargo ship torpedoed by a Japanese submarine in 1942. The 120 m long ship was towed to the beach of Tulamben, where it slid into the sea during the 1963 eruption of Gunung Agung—and has since lain at a depth of 5-30 m.
The wreck is accessible directly from the beach—no boat needed! When snorkeling, you can already see the upper decks at a depth of 3-5 m, overgrown with soft and hard corals. About 400 fish species live here: Napoleon wrasse, barracudas, batfish, moray eels, and with luck even the rare sunfish (Mola Mola) from July to October.
For divers, the Liberty wreck is a paradise: Visibility is often 20-30 m, the current is minimal, and you can dive the entire ship—through cargo holds, over the bridge, and along the bow and stern guns. Even open-water divers with little experience can dive safely here.
Dive from 350,000 IDR (approx. 20€) with a local dive school. Snorkel equipment on the beach: 50,000 IDR/day. Best time: April-November (calm sea, 25-30 m visibility). Mornings before 8 am or afternoons after 3 pm when day-trippers are gone.
Tipp
The absolute insider tip: Go to the wreck at 5:30 am—before sunrise. Many nocturnal marine creatures are still active then, and you have the wreck all to yourself. Several dive schools in Tulamben offer "Dawn Dives."
Jemeluk Bay & Coral Garden★★
The horseshoe-shaped Jemeluk Bay, just 2 km east of Amed, is the best snorkeling spot right on the doorstep. The reef begins a few meters from the beach and drops steeply—a submarine garden of table corals, fan corals, and staghorn corals in vibrant colors.
Here you can find clownfish in anemones, triggerfish, parrotfish, pufferfish, and regularly turtles. At the northern end of the bay lies a Japanese wreck from World War II at a depth of 6-12 m—perfect for snorkelers with a bit of courage to dive deeper.
In the afternoon, when the sun is low, the light underwater is particularly magical. In the evening, the traditional Jukung outrigger boats of the fishermen return—a beautiful photo motif against the backdrop of Gunung Agung.
Accommodation & Dining in Amed€
Budget: Simple bungalows right by the sea are available from 150,000-300,000 IDR (8-17€) per night—often with breakfast and sea view. Recommended: Amed Café & Bungalows in Jemeluk and Galang Kangin in Bunutan.
Mid-range: Stylish boutique accommodations with pool for 500,000-1,000,000 IDR (28-56€). Blue Moon Villas offer spectacular infinity pool views over the bay. Griya Villas in Bunutan combine Balinese architecture with modern comfort.
Dining: The warungs on the beach serve the freshest fish in Bali—the morning's catch is on ice, you choose your fish, it is grilled and served with sambal, rice, and vegetables. Warung Enak in Amed and Sails Restaurant in Jemeluk are favorites. Expect to pay 40,000-80,000 IDR (2-4€) for a complete fish meal.
Sidemen—Rice Terraces Away from the Crowds★★★
If Tegallalang near Ubud is the Instagram-famous rice terraces, then Sidemen is Bali's best-kept secret. The Sidemen Valley in the east, dominated by the mighty Gunung Agung, offers perhaps the most beautiful rice landscapes on the entire island—and a fraction of the visitors.
The narrow valley stretches from south to north, flanked by steeply rising mountains. The slopes are carved into countless rice terraces that shimmer in emerald green, gold, or earthy brown depending on the growth phase. In between are coconut palms, banana plants, small temples, and farmers still plowing with water buffaloes.
The village of Sidemen itself is a sleepy village with a handful of warungs and homestays. The charm lies not in sights but in immersing yourself in rural Bali: hikes through the rice fields, conversations with farmers, observing traditional weaving (Sidemen is famous for Songket and Endek ikat fabrics), and yoga retreats with volcano views.
The legendary Walter Spies, a German painter and Bali pioneer of the 1930s, lived in Sidemen for a time and said: "This is the most beautiful place on the whole island."
Tipp
The most beautiful hike leads from the village of Iseh (4 km north of Sidemen) through rice fields down to the Unda River and back—about 3 hours, no guide needed. Start in the morning when Mount Agung is cloud-free and the light turns the terraces golden.
Activities in the Sidemen Valley
Rice Field Walks
There are no marked hiking trails—and that's the charm. Just set off along the narrow paths between the fields. The farmers appreciate a friendly "Selamat pagi!" (Good morning). For longer tours (4-6 hours) to the Gunung Agung viewpoint, a local guide is recommended (approx. 200,000-300,000 IDR).
Weaving Visit
Sidemen is one of the last centers of traditional Balinese Songket weaving—elaborate fabrics with woven gold and silver threads, worn at ceremonies. Several family workshops open for visitors: You can see the women working on simple wooden looms and buy cloths and scarves directly (from 150,000 IDR for a scarf). The quality is significantly better and the price fairer than in tourist shops.
Rafting on the Telaga Waja
The Telaga Waja is Bali's most exciting rafting river—Class III-IV rapids through a deep gorge with waterfalls. The 16 km tour starts north of Sidemen and takes about 2.5 hours. Providers: Sobek, Mega Rafting. From 450,000 IDR (approx. 25€) including transfer and lunch.
Accommodation in Sidemen€
Budget: Simple homestays with rice field views from 200,000 IDR (€11). Darmada Eco Resort offers simple bamboo bungalows amidst the rice fields.
Mid-range: Surya Shanti Villa — beautiful villa with infinity pool and direct Agung view (from 800,000 IDR). Samanvaya Luxury Resort — the best accommodation in the valley with spa, yoga pavilion, and gourmet restaurant (from 1,500,000 IDR).
Food: The warungs in the village serve authentic Balinese food: Nasi Campur, Mie Goreng, Sate Lilit. Prices: 20,000-40,000 IDR. Warung Godogan at the edge of the main road has the best cuisine in town.
Tirta Gangga—Water Palace★★
The Tirta Gangga ("Holy Water of the Ganges") is one of the most enchanting places in East Bali: a royal water palace from 1946, created by the last Raja of Karangasem, Anak Agung Anglurah Ketut Karangasem. The complex spans several levels with ponds, fountains, sculptures, and lush tropical gardens—a place of fairy-tale beauty.
The centerpiece is the stepping stone ponds: stone slabs leading over the water, surrounded by koi carp and lotus flowers, with Gunung Agung as a backdrop. Above is an 11-tiered fountain tower from which water flows in all directions—a symbol of the Balinese concept of water as the source of life.
In the upper area, there is a natural freshwater swimming pool, fed by a sacred spring—crystal clear and refreshingly cool. A swim here, surrounded by frangipani trees and stone god statues, is one of Bali's most unforgettable experiences.
The palace was severely damaged in 1963 during the eruption of Gunung Agung and lovingly rebuilt. Today it is both a tourist attraction and an active ceremonial site—Balinese Hindus come here for ritual cleansings.
Tipp
Come in the morning before 9 am—then you have the stepping stone ponds almost to yourself. The light is best early, and the koi are more active. Bring a swimsuit for the swimming pool above.
Pura Besakih—Mother Temple of Bali★★★
Pura Besakih is the holiest and largest temple in Bali—and one of the most important Hindu temples worldwide. The massive complex is located at an altitude of 1,000 m on the southwest slope of Gunung Agung, Bali's highest and holiest mountain, and consists of 23 interconnected temples that extend over six terraces up the mountainside.
The oldest part of the temple may date back to the 8th century. The three main sanctuaries are dedicated to the three deities of the Hindu Trinity: Pura Penataran Agung (Shiva, in the center), Pura Kiduling Kreteg (Brahma, left), and Pura Batu Madeg (Vishnu, right). Every district, caste, and profession in Bali has its own shrine here.
The temple miraculously survived the 1963 volcanic eruption: The lava flows split and flowed past the temple on both sides—a sign of divine protection for the Balinese. Over 1,700 people died in the eruption, but Besakih remained unscathed.
Besakih is not a museum but a living ceremonial site. Festivals are held here on at least 70 days a year, the largest being the Eka Dasa Rudra, celebrated only every 100 years (last in 1979).
Achtung
Unfortunately, Besakih is also notorious for pushy "guides" who claim you can only enter the temple with a guide. This is not true—the temple is open to everyone (with sarong and sash). Do not let yourself be pressured. Politely but firmly say "Tidak, terima kasih" (No, thank you). Pay the official entrance fee at the ticket office.
Tips for Visiting
Getting There: From Klungkung about 45 minutes, from Ubud 1.5 hours, from Kuta/Seminyak 2 hours. Own driver recommended—public buses only go to Klungkung. Parking: 5,000 IDR (motorcycle), 10,000 IDR (car).
Clothing: Sarong and sash are mandatory—available for rent at the entrance (10,000 IDR) or bring your own. Shoulders and knees must be covered. Women during menstruation are not allowed to enter the temple according to Balinese tradition.
Best Time to Visit: Mornings between 8:00 and 10:00 am, before the tour buses arrive. The mist usually clears around 9 am, revealing the view of Agung. In the afternoon, clouds almost always roll in.
Duration: Plan 2-3 hours to explore the entire complex at leisure. Most tourists only stay at the main temple—the smaller temples further up are much quieter and often just as impressive.
Karangasem (Amlapura)
Karangasem (the city is officially called Amlapura) was once the center of the most powerful kingdom in Bali. Today it is a sleepy, authentic small town that hardly any tourist visits—and that is exactly what makes it so appealing. The remnants of the royal past are visible everywhere.
The Puri Agung Karangasem (Royal Palace) in the city center is a fascinating ensemble of Balinese, Chinese, and European architecture—the last Raja was a well-traveled cosmopolitan who integrated elements from London, Amsterdam, and Shanghai into his palace. The Bale Kambang (floating pavilion) in the lotus pond and the Maskerdam pavilion (named after Amsterdam!) are the highlights.
Amlapura is a quiet base for exploring East Bali: Tirta Gangga (15 min), Besakih (1 hr), Amed (45 min), and Padangbai (45 min) are easily accessible from here. Amlapura's morning market (daily from 5 am) is a lively spectacle with fruits, vegetables, spices, and flowers for temple offerings.
Padangbai—Ferries & Diving
Padangbai is Bali's ferry port for the crossing to Lombok and the Gili Islands—but using the sleepy fishing village only as a transit point would be a mistake. The small bay has developed into a relaxed backpacker hangout with excellent dive sites, hidden beaches, and a cozy atmosphere.
The main bay with the ferry terminal is not suitable for swimming, but a few minutes' walk away are two beautiful bays:
Blue Lagoon Beach (10 minutes walk east): A small, sheltered bay with white sand, clear water, and a reef just off the beach that is perfect for snorkeling. Turtles, clownfish, and blue-spotted stingrays are regular guests. Sun loungers and warungs available during the day.
Bias Tugel Beach (also "Secret Beach", 15 minutes walk over the hill east): The most beautiful beach in the area—white sand, turquoise water, hardly any people. No shade and no warung, so bring water and sun protection.
Tipp
Padangbai is one of the cheapest places to dive in all of Bali. Two dives with equipment cost from 700,000 IDR (approx. 40€)—significantly cheaper than in Sanur or Nusa Lembongan. The dive schools Water Worx and OK Divers are recommended.
Ferries & Speedboats
To Lombok (Lembar): The state ferry from Padangbai to Lembar runs hourly, around the clock. Crossing 4-5 hours. Price: 46,000 IDR (approx. 2.60€) per person, motorcycle 130,000 IDR, car 600,000 IDR. Just come to the port and take the next boat—no reservation needed.
To Gili Islands / Lombok (Senggigi): Speedboats run daily (1 departure in the morning, around 9:00 am). Crossing 1.5-2 hours to Gili Trawangan. Price: 350,000-600,000 IDR (20-34€) depending on the provider. Note: In rough seas (especially July-August and December-February), boats regularly cancel or the crossing becomes very rough. Book through the accommodation or a reputable provider like Bluewater Express or Eka Jaya.
Achtung
At the port, there are aggressive touts who want to sell you overpriced tickets. Go directly to the official counter. For speedboats: Only book with established providers and pay attention to the condition of the boat—there have been serious accidents in the past with poorly maintained boats.
Tenganan—Bali Aga Village★★
Tenganan Pegringsingan is one of the last Bali Aga villages—settlements of the "original Balinese" who have preserved their pre-Hindu culture for centuries, while the rest of the island came under the influence of the Javanese Majapahit Empire. The village is only 5 km from Padangbai but is a time travel back centuries.
Tenganan is strictly self-sufficient and endogamous: The approximately 600 inhabitants are only allowed to marry among themselves, land cannot be sold, and decisions are made by the village council according to ancient rules (awig-awig). Anyone who marries an outsider loses the right to live in the village.
The village is famous for two unique crafts:
Geringsing: The only double ikat weaving in the world (besides a few in Japan and India). Both thread systems—warp and weft—are dyed separately before weaving and coordinated so that the pattern emerges when woven. A single fabric can take several years to produce. Geringsing cloths are considered magical and are worn as protection during ceremonies.
Lontar palm leaf painting: On dried palm leaves, the finest patterns and mythological scenes are etched with bamboo needles and blackened with nut dye—a technique found only in Tenganan.
Every year in June or July, the Mekare-Kare festival takes place: A ritual fight where young men cut each other's backs with pandanus leaves (which cut like razors)—a blood ritual in honor of the war god Indra. Fascinating and not for the faint-hearted.
Tipp
Admission is a donation (donation box at the entrance, 20,000-50,000 IDR is appropriate). Visit the workshops at the back of the village—the women who weave Geringsing are happy to explain their work. A small Geringsing cloth costs from 300,000 IDR, a large one can cost several million.
East Bali Practical Information
Getting Around: East Bali is difficult to explore without your own vehicle or a private driver. The distances between highlights are large (Sidemen–Amed: 2 hours, Padangbai–Amed: 1.5 hours), and public buses run rarely and unreliably. The best option is a scooter (from 70,000 IDR/day) or a private driver (approx. 500,000-700,000 IDR/day including fuel). The roads are mostly good, but the coastal road to Amed has some tight curves and steep sections.
Best Travel Time: April to October (dry season). The view of Gunung Agung is best in the morning. November to March is the rainy season—the rice fields are then greenest, but the volcano view is often obscured by clouds.
ATMs: There is only one ATM in Amed (at Bank BRI, often empty). Several ATMs in Amlapura and Padangbai. Bring enough cash!
Mobile Coverage: In Amed and Sidemen, network coverage is patchy—Telkomsel has the best coverage. Wi-Fi in accommodations is usually available but slow.
Achtung
Gunung Agung is an active volcano. It last erupted in 2017/2018 and can become active again at any time. Pay attention to the warning levels of the Indonesian Volcanology Center (PVMBG) and adhere to exclusion zones (usually 4-6 km radius around the summit). Ascents are prohibited at warning level II and above.
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