Ubud & Central Bali

The Tegallalang Rice Terraces are the most photographed motif of Bali — and for good reason. About 20 minutes north of Ubud, dramatic steps of emerald green rice fields cascade into a deep river valley, interspersed with coconut palms and the ancient Subak irrigation system, which has been functioning since the 9th century and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2012. The Subak is based on the Balinese philosophy of Tri Hita Karana — the harmony between humans, nature, and gods — and distributes water equitably from temple to temple, from field to field.

The terraces are divided into three sections, managed by local farmers' cooperatives. Each section charges a donation of 15,000–20,000 IDR (~0.90–1.20€). The most spectacular is the middle section with its steep steps and the famous palm swings that swing over the gorge (100,000 IDR/~5.80€ per ride). Follow the narrow paths between the rice fields down to the river — it gets quiet here, and most tourists stay up at the edge.

The rice cycle determines the view: After planting (usually January and July), the terraces glow with fresh green, and at harvest time (about 3–4 months later), they transform into a golden sea. Between cycles, the fields lie fallow and are less photogenic, but you can watch the farmers plowing — often with water buffaloes, which are still in use here.

If you want to escape mass tourism, head instead to the Jatiluwih Rice Terraces (45 minutes west of Ubud) — they are a UNESCO World Heritage Site, twice as large, ten times as quiet, and at least as spectacular. A hiking trail of 2–4 hours leads through the entire terrace system, past small temples and farmers' huts. Entrance fee 40,000 IDR (~2.30€).

The Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary (Mandala Suci Wenara Wana) is located in the heart of Ubud — a 12.5-hectare jungle of ancient banyan trees, moss-covered stone figures, and three Hindu temples, home to over 1,260 long-tailed macaques in five groups. The forest is not a zoo but a sacred place: The Balinese believe that the monkeys protect the temple, and the three Pura (temples) in the forest are actively used for ceremonies.

The Pura Dalem Agung Padangtegal (Temple of Death) in the center is the most impressive: moss-covered stone steps, demon sculptures with grim faces, and giant banyan roots winding around the temple walls like the tentacles of an octopus. The atmosphere is cinematic — Peter Jackson could have filmed here. At the southern end of the forest, a stone bridge leads over a jungle gorge to a bathing area with a small waterfall.

The macaques are semi-wild and accustomed to humans, making them both fascinating and unpredictable. They steal sunglasses, hats, water bottles, and phones with surgical precision. Park staff (in green uniforms) are trained to retrieve stolen items — usually in exchange for a few bananas as barter. Some monkeys have learned that they get more food for more valuable items, leading to a quirky negotiation economy.

The park is also an important research center: Primatologists from Udayana University have been studying the social behavior of the macaques here for decades. The animals are accustomed to human presence, allowing for rare behavioral observations. Signs in the park explain the hierarchy of the five monkey groups and their territories.

The Ubud Art Market (Pasar Seni Ubud) and the opposite Puri Saren Agung (Royal Palace) form the cultural epicenter of Ubud — where art, commerce, and Balinese tradition meet in close quarters. The market, located directly at the intersection of Jalan Raya Ubud / Jalan Monkey Forest, is a two-story labyrinth of stalls overflowing with sarongs, wood carvings, batik fabrics, silver jewelry, woven bags, and oil paintings.

The quality varies enormously: Much is industrial mass-produced from Java, but among the kitsch are genuine treasures — hand-carved masks from Mas (the carving village 5 km south), delicate silverwork from Celuk, handwoven ikat fabrics, and acrylic paintings by Balinese artists. The rule of thumb: The further you venture into the back alleys of the upper floor, the more authentic the goods become. Bargaining is a must — start at 30–40% of the quoted price. A hand-carved wooden Buddha costs 150,000–300,000 IDR (9–18€) after negotiation, a handwoven silk sarong 200,000–400,000 IDR (12–23€).

The Puri Saren Agung directly opposite is the palace of the royal family of Ubud, the Sukawati dynasty, which has resided here since the 18th century — and still does today. The palace is partially open to visitors during the day (free of charge): The front courtyard with its elaborate stone carvings, Paduraksa gates, and frangipani trees gives an impression of Balinese palace architecture. But the true magic unfolds in the evening from 7:30 PM, when traditional dance performances take place in the inner courtyard — Legong, Barong, or Kecak dance, performed by local dance groups in elaborate costumes, accompanied by a gamelan orchestra. The palace courtyard with its torch lights and temple gate as a backdrop is Bali's most atmospheric stage.

The Puri Lukisan Museum (200 meters west, 85,000 IDR/~5€) is Bali's oldest art museum and showcases the development of Balinese painting from traditional Wayang still lifes through the influence of Walter Spies to modern Balinese art. Anyone wanting to understand Ubud's art scene should start here.

Tirta Empul is one of Bali's holiest water temples — a place of such spiritual power that Balinese people have been making pilgrimages here for over a thousand years to ritually cleanse themselves in the sacred springs. The temple was founded in 962 AD to protect a natural freshwater spring that bubbles up from volcanic rock. Legend has it that the god Indra created the spring when the demon king Mayadanawa poisoned the water — a drop of Indra's Amrit (elixir of immortality) caused the sacred spring to flow.

The heart of the temple is the purification pools (Petirtaan): Two long, rectangular pools fed by 30 water spout fountains (Pancuran), each with its own spiritual significance. Devout Balinese and visitors wade through waist-deep water from fountain to fountain, letting the icy spring water flow over their heads and shoulders — a purification ritual called Melukat. Each fountain represents a different cleansing: of negative energy, of illness, of bad karma. Two fountains are skipped — they are meant for death rituals and are taboo for the living.

Participation in the ritual is open to non-Hindus as well, but respect is expected: Wear a sarong and sash (available for rent at the entrance), pray briefly at the small offering place at the edge of the pool, and then go through the fountains from left to right. The water is surprisingly cold — it comes directly from volcanic spring layers — and the experience is deeply moving, regardless of one's religiosity. Many visitors describe it as one of the most intense moments of their Bali trip.

In the back area of the temple, behind the purification pools, lies the actual spring: A crystal-clear pool where you can see the sand rising from the bottom as the water pushes up from the earth. This area is particularly sacred and must not be entered. Above it stands the presidential palace Istana Tampaksiring, built by Sukarno in 1957 — from its terrace, one can view the entire temple complex (not open to the public).

Gunung Kawi is one of Bali's most impressive and underrated temples — an ensemble of ten monumental rock-cut tombs (Candi) carved directly into the cliffs of a deep river valley in the 11th century. The reliefs, up to 7 meters high, are dedicated to the kings of the Udayana dynasty and are reminiscent of the rock temples of Petra or Ellora in their monumentality. The fact that this architectural masterpiece is located in a tropical jungle valley, surrounded by rice terraces and coconut palms, makes the visit surreal.

The descent to the temple is part of the experience: Over 370 stone steps, a path leads through lush jungle, past rice terraces and a waterfall, down to the Pakerisan River. The air becomes more humid with each step, the vegetation denser, the noise of civilization disappears. Once at the bottom, the complex is divided into two groups: On the east side of the river stand five Candi in a row — presumably the tombs of King Anak Wungsu and his four queens. On the west side, accessible via a bridge, stand another five Candi, whose attribution is disputed.

The stone carving is exceptional: The false facades imitate the style of Indonesian wooden temples, but everything is hewn from the volcanic rock — a technical masterpiece of the 11th century. Ferns grow from every crevice between the tombs, moss covers the figures, and small streams trickle over the reliefs — the jungle has half-reclaimed the temples, giving them a melancholic beauty that no restored temple can achieve.

In the valley, there is also an active temple (Pura Gunung Kawi), where Balinese pray and make offerings. The contrast between the thousand-year-old tranquility of the rock-cut tombs and the vibrant faith next door is one of the strongest impressions of Central Bali. Plan at least 20–30 minutes for the return journey (370 steps uphill in tropical heat!).

The Campuhan Ridge Walk is Ubud's most beautiful walk — a narrow ridge between two deep river valleys, where you wander through waist-high elephant grass, while coconut palms rise from the jungle on both sides and the silhouette of Gunung Agung appears on the horizon. The path begins at Pura Gunung Lebah (a small temple on the western outskirts of Ubud, Jalan Raya Campuhan) and leads 2 kilometers to the village of Bangkiang Sidem.

The landscape is a panoramic kaleidoscope: The ridge itself is only a few meters wide, and you look down into green gorges on both sides, through which the Sungai Wos (Wos River) flows. The path is paved and flat — not a strenuous hike, but a meditative walk that takes about 30–45 minutes in one direction. At the end of the ridge, you reach Karsa Kafe, a charming café amidst rice fields, serving fresh juices, smoothie bowls, and Indonesian coffee (main courses 45,000–85,000 IDR/2.60–5€).

The Ridge Walk was long a secret tip, but since Instagram, it is no longer a secret. The solution: Get up early. At sunrise (around 6:15 AM), the path is almost deserted, the light bathes the grass in gold, and the mist in the valleys slowly dissolves. It is one of the most magical moments Ubud has to offer. At noon, it becomes hot and crowded.

If you want to extend the walk, follow the field paths through the rice terraces of Keliki from Bangkiang Sidem — a rarely visited landscape that stretches over several kilometers. Here you are more likely to encounter farmers and ducks than tourists. The return route can be taken via Jalan Raya Lungsiakan back to Ubud (a total of 6–7 km round trip, 2–3 hours).

Ubud is the yoga mecca of Southeast Asia — nowhere else in Asia is the density of yoga studios, meditation centers, healers, and wellness retreats so high. What began in the 1970s with a few hippies meditating with Balinese healers is now a full-fledged industry — from the 50,000-IDR drop-in class to the 5,000-dollar luxury retreat with a private guru and volcano view. The quality varies enormously, but the best is truly top-notch.

The Yoga Barn (Jalan Hanoman) is the institution: A sprawling complex of open bamboo pavilions surrounded by tropical gardens, offering over 15 classes daily — Hatha, Vinyasa, Ashtanga, Kundalini, Yin Yoga, Ecstatic Dance, Sound Healing, Breathwork. A drop-in class costs 150,000 IDR (~8.80€), a 5-pass 600,000 IDR (~35€). The morning class at 7:30 AM (Hatha with a jungle view) is a legendary experience. The adjacent Garden Kafe serves top-notch healthy cuisine.

For more intensive experiences, there is the Ubud Bodyworks Centre (traditional Balinese healing treatments), Taksu Spa (a combination of yoga and spa in a hidden garden), and Radiantly Alive (smaller, more personal, excellent teachers). If you want to visit a Balinese healer (Balian): Ketut Liyer, the "Eat Pray Love" healer, passed away in 2016, but his grandson continues the practice. More serious and less touristy are the Balians in the villages around Ubud — ask at your accommodation for recommendations.

The spa scene is paradisiacal: A 60-minute Balinese massage costs 200,000–350,000 IDR (12–20€) in a good spa, in a luxury resort like the Four Seasons Sayan or Como Shambhala from 1,500,000 IDR (~88€). The best budget option is the small spas along Jalan Hanoman — here you can get an excellent massage for 100,000–150,000 IDR (6–9€). Pay attention to cleanliness and ask if the therapists are certified.

The Gunung Batur (1,717 m) is an active volcano on the edge of a gigantic caldera — and the sunrise trek to its summit is one of Bali's most unforgettable experiences. When the sun rises over Gunung Agung (3,142 m, Bali's highest mountain) at 5:45 AM and the golden light flows over the crater lake, the cooled lava fields, and the mist-shrouded caldera, you understand why the Balinese revere their volcanoes as the seats of the gods.

The trek starts around 3:30–4:00 AM in the darkness from the village of Toya Bungkah at the crater lake. A local guide is mandatory — the Volcano Guide Association (PPPGB) controls access, and without a guide, you will not be allowed on the mountain. The ascent takes about 1.5–2 hours over a well-marked but steep path of volcanic gravel and lava rock. Flashlights (headlamps are better) are necessary — climbing over black lava gravel in the dark is more adventurous than it sounds.

At the summit, you'll find steaming fumaroles, where the guides cook breakfast eggs and grill bananas in the hot earth. The view at sunrise is a 360-degree panorama: To the east, the majestic Gunung Agung, to the west, Gunung Abang (Bali's third-largest volcano), below the crescent-shaped crater lake Danau Batur (Bali's largest lake), and all around the steep walls of the 13 km wide caldera. On clear days, you can see as far as Gunung Rinjani on Lombok.

The difficulty is moderate — no climbing equipment needed, no technical sections, but a decent level of fitness should be present. The descent (1–1.5 hours) optionally leads over the black lava landscape of the 1963/1968 eruption or directly back to the starting point. Some tours offer a detour to the hot springs (Toya Devasya) at the crater lake — perfect for tired legs after the trek (entrance 150,000 IDR/~8.80€).

Ubud's culinary scene is a fascinating juxtaposition of ancient Balinese warung tradition and modern plant-based cuisine — nowhere else in Bali can you eat so diversely. Here, the Balinese farmer sits next to the Australian digital nomad, one eats Babi Guling with their fingers, the other an acai bowl with a golden spoon. Both have their place, but to understand Bali, one must first understand the warungs.

A warung is more than a restaurant — it is the soul of Balinese food culture. A simple hut (sometimes just a table under a tarp) where a family has been cooking the same dish for generations. The quality is often overwhelming, the prices ridiculous. The Nasi Campur (rice with various side dishes) costs 20,000–35,000 IDR (1.20–2€) in a warung, and it's not uncommon for it to be better than the same dish in a 50-dollar hotel restaurant. The best warungs in Ubud: Warung Biah Biah (Jalan Suweta, Nasi Campur for 25,000 IDR), Warung Ibu Oka 3 (for Babi Guling), and Warung Mendez (Jalan Monkey Forest, authentic Balinese cuisine at local prices).

Babi Guling (suckling pig) is Bali's national dish — and a religious experience. A whole pig is stuffed with a paste of turmeric, coriander seeds, lemongrass, garlic, chilies, and langkuas (galangal) and grilled for hours over coconut shell charcoal until the skin is glassy-crispy. The meat is buttery-tender and aromatic, the skin crackles when chewed. The most famous place for Babi Guling is Ibu Oka (three locations in Ubud, main branch on Jalan Suweta, a portion from 50,000 IDR/~2.90€) — Anthony Bourdain called it "the best pork I've ever eaten." But connoisseurs swear by Babi Guling Pak Malen in Gianyar (20 minutes from Ubud), where the meat is even smokier and the skin even crispier.

On the other end of the spectrum, Ubud has the best vegan and healthy restaurant scene in Indonesia. Alchemy (Jalan Penestanan Kelod) is a raw food paradise with a legendary salad bar buffet (by weight, ~60,000–100,000 IDR/3.50–5.80€), where you can assemble your bowl from 40+ ingredients. Sage offers upscale plant-based cuisine in a loft-like setting. Moksa (Jalan Nyuh Bojog) operates its own permaculture farm and serves what was harvested in the morning — farm-to-table in its purest form (dishes 55,000–95,000 IDR/3.20–5.60€).

Between the extremes lies the modern Balinese cuisine: Locavore (Jalan Dewi Sita) was Bali's first fine-dining restaurant with exclusively Indonesian ingredients and has conquered Asia's 50-best lists. A tasting menu (7 courses) costs from 1,350,000 IDR (~79€) — not cheap, but a culinary experience of the highest class. Reservations are necessary weeks in advance.