Pura Besakih—Mother Temple of Bali★★★
Pura Besakih is the holiest and largest temple in Bali—and one of the most important Hindu temples worldwide. The massive complex is located at an altitude of 1,000 m on the southwest slope of Gunung Agung, Bali's highest and holiest mountain, and consists of 23 interconnected temples that extend over six terraces up the mountainside.
The oldest part of the temple may date back to the 8th century. The three main sanctuaries are dedicated to the three deities of the Hindu Trinity: Pura Penataran Agung (Shiva, in the center), Pura Kiduling Kreteg (Brahma, left), and Pura Batu Madeg (Vishnu, right). Every district, caste, and profession in Bali has its own shrine here.
The temple miraculously survived the 1963 volcanic eruption: The lava flows split and flowed past the temple on both sides—a sign of divine protection for the Balinese. Over 1,700 people died in the eruption, but Besakih remained unscathed.
Besakih is not a museum but a living ceremonial site. Festivals are held here on at least 70 days a year, the largest being the Eka Dasa Rudra, celebrated only every 100 years (last in 1979).
Achtung
Unfortunately, Besakih is also notorious for pushy "guides" who claim you can only enter the temple with a guide. This is not true—the temple is open to everyone (with sarong and sash). Do not let yourself be pressured. Politely but firmly say "Tidak, terima kasih" (No, thank you). Pay the official entrance fee at the ticket office.
Tips for Visiting
Getting There: From Klungkung about 45 minutes, from Ubud 1.5 hours, from Kuta/Seminyak 2 hours. Own driver recommended—public buses only go to Klungkung. Parking: 5,000 IDR (motorcycle), 10,000 IDR (car).
Clothing: Sarong and sash are mandatory—available for rent at the entrance (10,000 IDR) or bring your own. Shoulders and knees must be covered. Women during menstruation are not allowed to enter the temple according to Balinese tradition.
Best Time to Visit: Mornings between 8:00 and 10:00 am, before the tour buses arrive. The mist usually clears around 9 am, revealing the view of Agung. In the afternoon, clouds almost always roll in.
Duration: Plan 2-3 hours to explore the entire complex at leisure. Most tourists only stay at the main temple—the smaller temples further up are much quieter and often just as impressive.