Tegallalang Rice Terraces★★★
The Tegallalang Rice Terraces are the most photographed motif of Bali — and for good reason. About 20 minutes north of Ubud, dramatic steps of emerald green rice fields cascade into a deep river valley, interspersed with coconut palms and the ancient Subak irrigation system, which has been functioning since the 9th century and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2012. The Subak is based on the Balinese philosophy of Tri Hita Karana — the harmony between humans, nature, and gods — and distributes water equitably from temple to temple, from field to field.
The terraces are divided into three sections, managed by local farmers' cooperatives. Each section charges a donation of 15,000–20,000 IDR (~0.90–1.20€). The most spectacular is the middle section with its steep steps and the famous palm swings that swing over the gorge (100,000 IDR/~5.80€ per ride). Follow the narrow paths between the rice fields down to the river — it gets quiet here, and most tourists stay up at the edge.
The rice cycle determines the view: After planting (usually January and July), the terraces glow with fresh green, and at harvest time (about 3–4 months later), they transform into a golden sea. Between cycles, the fields lie fallow and are less photogenic, but you can watch the farmers plowing — often with water buffaloes, which are still in use here.
If you want to escape mass tourism, head instead to the Jatiluwih Rice Terraces (45 minutes west of Ubud) — they are a UNESCO World Heritage Site, twice as large, ten times as quiet, and at least as spectacular. A hiking trail of 2–4 hours leads through the entire terrace system, past small temples and farmers' huts. Entrance fee 40,000 IDR (~2.30€).
💡 Tipp
Arrive at 7:30 AM, before the tour buses arrive at 9 AM. The morning light is the best for photos anyway. The cafés at the terrace edge (Tis Café, Alas Harum) offer spectacular views — order a Luwak coffee (50,000 IDR/~2.90€), the famous civet coffee, but make sure the animals are not kept in cages.
Achtung
The paths between the rice fields are narrow, uneven, and extremely slippery after rain. Flip-flops are a recipe for disaster — wear sturdy shoes or at least sandals with a grip.