Marais & Place des Vosges

The Marais is the most vibrant, diverse, and fashionable district of Paris — and one of the few that survived Baron Haussmann's radical urban renewal in the 19th century. Here, medieval half-timbered houses stand next to aristocratic hôtels particuliers from the 17th century, and the ground floors are lined with designer boutiques, independent galleries, Jewish bakeries, and LGBTQ+ bars.

The heart of the district is the Place des Vosges (1612), France's oldest planned square and one of the most beautiful in the world. Thirty-six identical red brick houses with slate roofs frame a manicured lawn with fountains and lime trees. In house No. 6, Victor Hugo lived from 1832 to 1848 and wrote parts of "Les Misérables" here — his apartment is now a museum (free). On summer afternoons, Parisians picnic on the lawn, and street musicians play under the arcades.

Other highlights in the Marais: the Musée Picasso in the Hôtel Salé (over 5,000 works, €14), the Musée Carnavalet (Parisian city history, free, excellent), the Centre Pompidou at the edge of the district (Renzo Piano & Richard Rogers' inside-out building with the best collection of modern art in Europe — closed for renovation until 2030, but the piazza in front remains a meeting point), and the Rue des Rosiers — the historic Jewish quarter with the best falafel in Paris (L'As du Fallafel, line starts at noon, falafel plate €15).