Split & Central Dalmatia · Abschnitt 1/6

Split

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Split

Croatia's second-largest city (178,000 inhabitants) is not a museum — it is a vibrant metropolis within an ancient imperial palace. The Diocletian's Palace (UNESCO since 1979) was built in 305 AD as a retirement residence for the Roman Emperor Diocletian. Today, people live, work, eat, and celebrate within its 1,700-year-old walls. Nowhere else in the world is this possible.

Split is also the most important ferry and transport hub on the Dalmatian coast. Almost all ferries to the islands depart from here. Most travelers pass through Split — and many stay longer than planned.

Plan for at least 2–3 full days. The city deserves it.

Orientation

Split is compact and pedestrian-friendly. The main areas:

  • Diocletian's Palace (Old Town): The heart. Within the palace walls are most of the attractions, restaurants, and bars. Completely car-free.
  • Riva: The 250m long waterfront promenade directly south of the palace. Split's living room — the whole city meets here.
  • Veli Varoš: The old fishing quarter west of the palace, on the slopes of Marjan Hill. Winding alleys, fewer tourists, cheaper restaurants.
  • Manuš & Lučac: East of the palace. Up-and-coming neighborhoods with craft bars and street art.
  • Bačvice: Split's home beach, 10 minutes southeast of the palace. Sandy beach (rare in Croatia!), bars, Picigin players.
  • Marjan: Wooded peninsula west of the city. Hiking trails, viewpoints, hidden bays. Split's green lung.
  • Harbor & Ferry Terminal: Directly east of the Riva. All island ferries depart here.

Attractions

★★★ Diocletian's Palace

The entire palace measures 215 × 180 meters and was the largest Roman residence ever built. The outer walls (up to 26m high) are almost completely preserved. Inside: a labyrinth of alleys, squares, churches, residential buildings, restaurants, and boutiques — all on ancient foundations.

Free access, 24/7. The individual attractions within the palace have separate entrance fees.

★★★ Peristyle

The heart of the palace — an open colonnaded courtyard that once served as a ceremonial place. Today an open-air stage: In summer, operas and theater performances take place here. The pink granite columns come from Egypt. Sit on the steps, order a coffee at one of the bars, and soak in the atmosphere.

Free access.

★★★ Cathedral of St. Domnius (Sv. Duje)

Originally the mausoleum of Emperor Diocletian — the most anti-Christian of all Roman emperors — it was converted into a cathedral in the 7th century. It is the oldest continuously used cathedral in the world. The bell tower (57m) offers the best panoramic view over Split.

Cathedral: 5€, Bell tower: 7€, Combo ticket: 10€. Daily 8 AM–7 PM (summer), shorter in winter. Bell tower: 176 narrow steps, not for the claustrophobic.

★★ Cellars of Diocletian's Palace (Podrum)

The underground vaults are astonishingly well-preserved and show the dimensions of the ancient palace. Game of Thrones fans know them as Daenerys' dragon dungeons. Occasionally exhibitions and events.

8€. April–October: 8:30 AM–9 PM, November–March: 9 AM–5 PM.

★★ Vestibule

Round, open antechamber to the imperial apartments. The dome (once decorated with mosaics) has a hole at the top — great for photos. Street musicians use the acoustics, and the a cappella singing here is magical.

Free access.

★★ Temple of Jupiter (Baptistery of St. John)

The tiny ancient temple was converted into a Christian baptistery. The Egyptian sphinx (3,500 years old!) at the entrance is one of the original 12 specimens — the other preserved one stands at the Peristyle.

3€, included in the combo ticket with the cathedral.

★★ Riva (Waterfront Promenade)

The promenade, completely redesigned in 2007, is Split's social hub. Palms, cafés, views of the sea and ferries. Joggers in the morning, tourists at noon, all of Split in the evening. A must: a coffee on the Riva.

★★ Green Market (Pazar)

Right by the eastern palace wall: Split's lively fruit and vegetable market. Fresh fruit, lavender sachets, honey, dried figs, pršut. Perfect for breakfast or as a picnic purchase.

Daily 6 AM–2 PM, smaller on Sundays.

★★ Fish Market (Peškarija)

Covered market west of the palace. Fresh fish directly from the boat. The selection is best in the morning. Even if you don't buy anything — the atmosphere is unique.

Daily 6 AM–1 PM.

★★ Marjan Peninsula

178m high wooded hill, only 15 minutes on foot from the old town. Running and cycling paths, the Vidilica viewing platform with 360° panorama, the chapel of St. Jure at the summit, and hidden pebble bays (Kašjuni, Bene) on the south side for swimming.

Free access, 24/7. Ascent to Vidilica: 20 min from Veli Varoš.

★ Ivan Meštrović Gallery

Villa and studio of Croatia's most important sculptor (1883–1962). Impressive sculptures in and around an elegant Secession villa, located directly by the sea.

10€. Tue–Sun 9 AM–7 PM (summer), 9 AM–4 PM (winter). Closed on Mondays.

★ Museum of the City of Split

In the Gothic Papalić Palace within Diocletian's Palace. History of Split from antiquity to today, with an impressive model of the palace in its original state.

5€. Tue–Sun 9 AM–9 PM (summer), 9 AM–5 PM (winter).

★ Diocletian's Aqueduct

2 km east of the old town: 9 km long Roman aqueduct (partially preserved) that once brought water from the Jadro River to the palace. Best seen on a walk towards Solin/Salona.

★ Salona (Solin)

5 km north of Split: the ruins of the former capital of the Roman province of Dalmatia (60,000 inhabitants in the 3rd century!). Amphitheater, city walls, early Christian basilicas. Little visited, lots of atmosphere.

4€. Daily 9 AM–7 PM (summer). Bus 37 from Split.

City Tour: Old Town & Diocletian's Palace

Duration: 2–3 hours | Distance: approx. 2.5 km | Best Time: Mornings from 8 AM (fewer tourists)

1. Riva (Start)
Start at the waterfront promenade. Coffee on the Riva to wake up, view of the harbor and the islands.

2. Bronze Gate (Mjedena Vrata)
The inconspicuous south gate of the palace, directly on the Riva. Through the cellar-like passage, you enter the cellars of the palace.

3. Cellars of Diocletian's Palace
Wander through the vaults, GoT feeling included. At the end, go up the stairs to the Peristyle.

4. Peristyle
Sit on the steps, enjoy the atmosphere. Look up: the Egyptian sphinx on the left has been guarding the entrance for 3,500 years.

5. Cathedral of St. Domnius + Bell Tower
First the cathedral (Diocletian's mausoleum!), then up the 176 steps. The view is worth the sweat.

6. Vestibule
Right next to the Peristyle: round open room with a dome. If a Klapa singer is singing — stay and listen.

7. Temple of Jupiter
Through a narrow alley to the former temple. The sphinx in front is the second preserved specimen.

8. Golden Gate (Zlatna Vrata) & Grgur Ninski Statue
The monumental north gate of the palace. Outside: the huge bronze statue of Bishop Grgur Ninski (Ivan Meštrović). Touching his big toe brings luck — you'll recognize it by the shiny polished toe.

9. Green Market (Pazar)
East side: Buy fresh fruit as a snack, lavender, and honey as a souvenir.

10. Veli Varoš
Through the Iron Gate (Željezna Vrata) westward into the old fishing quarter. Winding stone stairs, laundry on the line, cats everywhere.

11. Vidilica (Marjan Viewpoint)
From Veli Varoš, about 20 minutes ascent to the viewing platform. Panoramic view over Split, the palace, the harbor, and the islands. Perfect for photos.

12. Kašjuni Beach or back via Riva (End)
Either continue to the hidden Kašjuni Beach (15 min) or back via the Riva for a well-deserved sundowner.

💡 Tipp

The tour works best in the morning (8–11 AM). In the afternoon, the palace is crowded, and the bell tower has long lines. Buy a combo ticket in the morning!

Dining & Drinking in Split

€ Budget (main course under 12€)

Kantun Paulina · Matošića 4
Tiny stand in a side alley with the best street food in town. Squid burger, tuna sandwich, local specialties. A queue is normal and worth it.
8–15€ · Daily 10 AM–11 PM

Fešta · Ul. Ivana pl. Zajca 3
No-frills konoba with honest food: grilled fish, Ćevapi, black risotto. Local atmosphere, fair prices.
7–14€ · Mon–Sat 9 AM–11 PM

Luka Ice Cream & Cakes · Svačićeva 2
Best ice cream parlor in Split — artisanal flavors, all homemade. Lavender ice cream is the recommendation.
Scoop 2€ · Daily 9 AM–11 PM

€€ Mid-range (main course 12–25€)

Konoba Matejuška · Ul. Tome Stržića 3
Right at the small fishing harbor Matejuška, away from the tourist paths. Fresh fish, seafood risotto, local wines. Reservation recommended!
12–22€ · Daily 12–11 PM · ★★

Uje Oil Bar · Domaldova 3
Creative Dalmatian cuisine focusing on Croatian olive oil. Tuna tartare, octopus under the bell, excellent wine selection.
14–25€ · Daily 11 AM–12 AM · ★★

Konoba Hvaranin · Ban Mladenova 9
Hidden in Veli Varoš. Family-run, only a few tables. The Peka (pre-order!) is legendary. Daily catch from the house's son.
10–20€ · Tue–Sun 12–10 PM · ★★

Bokeria Kitchen & Wine Bar · Domaldova 8
Modern-Dalmatian in a stylish setting. Great tapas selection, craft cocktails, local wines by the glass. Popular with younger locals.
12–22€ · Daily 10 AM–12 AM

€€€ Upscale (main course 25€+)

Dvor · Put Firula 14
In an old mill right by the sea, 2 km east of the old town. Finest seafood, perfect sunset. One of the most romantic locations in Split.
25–45€ · Daily 12–12 AM · ★★★ · Reservation!

Zrno Soli · Uvala Baluni bb
Fine dining at the ACI marina. Modern Croatian cuisine at the highest level, tasting menu with wine pairing. For special occasions.
35–60€ · Tue–Sat 12–11 PM · ★★★ · Reservation required

Cafés & Bars

D16 Coffee · Domaldova 16 · Specialty Coffee, Flat White 2.50€. Split's No. 1 hipster café.

Lvxor · At the Peristyle · Coffee at the Peristyle, literally on the steps of the imperial palace. More expensive than elsewhere, but where else can you sit like this?

Marvlvs Library Jazz Bar · Papalićeva 4 · Jazz bar in a converted library in the palace. Live music in the evenings.

Paradox Wine & Cheese Bar · Ilićev prolaz 2 · Croatian wines and cheese, cozy cellar atmosphere.

Central · At Pjaca (Narodni Trg) · Classic café on the busiest square. The whole of Split sits here.

Accommodation in Split

€ Budget (under 40€/night)

Split Boutique Hostel · Ul. Hrvoja Vukčića Hrvatinića 4
Best hostel in town: clean, central, great atmosphere. Dorms from 18€, private rooms from 50€. Rooftop terrace with palace view.

Tchaikovsky Hostel · Krešimirova 1
Small, personal, 5 min from the palace. Dorm 15€, double room 45€.

€€ Mid-range (40–120€/night)

Heritage Hotel Antique Split · Ul. Kraj Sv. Marije 1
Charming hotel in the heart of the old town, in a restored stone building. Double rooms from 80€. Breakfast on the rooftop terrace with views over the rooftops.

Apartment Splits Finest · Various locations
Excellently furnished apartments in the old town and surroundings. 2-room apartment from 70€/night. Ideal for families and longer stays.

Divota Apartment Hotel · Bačvice
Modern, right by Bačvice Beach. Studio from 65€, apartment from 90€. Rooftop pool!

€€€ Upscale (120€+/night)

Judita Palace Heritage Hotel · Narodni Trg 4
Directly on Pjaca (People's Square), in a Renaissance palace. Luxurious rooms with historical details. From 150€. Breakfast in the courtyard.

Hotel Vestibul Palace · Iza Vestibula 4a
The only hotel within Diocletian's Palace. Boutique luxury in ancient walls. From 200€. A unique experience.

Radisson Blu Resort Split · Put Trstenika 19
Modern resort 3 km south of the old town. Pool, spa, private beach. From 160€. Shuttle to the city.

💡 Tipp

Split's old town apartments offer unbeatable value for money: 60–90€ for 2 people with a kitchen, right in the action. Book with private landlords (Booking.com or directly) instead of large chains.

Practical Information Split

Arrival and Further Travel

  • Split Airport (SPU): 25 km west. Bus 37 (5€, 30 min), Taxi 35€.
  • Bus Station: Right at the harbor, 5 min walk to the old town. Zagreb 5–6h (15–25€), Dubrovnik 4h (12–20€), Zadar 3h (10–15€).
  • Ferry Terminal: At the eastern end of the harbor. Jadrolinija + Krilo to Brač, Hvar, Vis, Korčula, Lastovo.
  • Train: Station next to the bus station. Zagreb 6h (15–25€), scenic route.

Within the City

  • The old town is completely walkable.
  • City Buses: Promet Split, single ticket 1.80€ (at the kiosk) or 2.50€ (on the bus).
  • Uber/Bolt: Works well, cheaper than taxis.
  • Parking: Old town car-free. Nearest parking garages: Konzum Garage (Hrvojeva), Spinčićeva. 1.50–3€/h.

Useful Addresses

  • Tourist Office: Peristyle 1, daily 8 AM–9 PM (summer)
  • Hospital: KBC Split, Spinčićeva 1 (Emergency 24/7)
  • Police: Trg Hrvatske bratske zajednice 9
  • Post Office: Ul. Kralja Tomislava 9, Mon–Fri 7 AM–8 PM
  • ATMs: Everywhere in the old town, also at the Riva and bus station

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