Zadar
Zadar (75,000 inhabitants) is the secret capital of Northern Dalmatia — a 3,000-year-old city on a peninsula that has experienced an impressive renaissance in recent years. While Dubrovnik and Split are overrun by cruise tourists, Zadar has retained a more authentic character.
The city combines Roman ruins, medieval churches, and avant-garde art installations in a small space. Alfred Hitchcock is said to have called the sunset in Zadar the most beautiful in the world — and those who experience the Sea Organ at sunset understand why.
Zadar is also the ideal starting point for the national parks Plitvice Lakes (about 2 hours), Krka (1 hour), Paklenica (45 minutes), and the Kornati Islands (by boat). Plan at least 2–3 full days for the city itself.
Orientation
Zadar's old town is located on a narrow peninsula (approx. 1 km long, 400 m wide) — compact and completely walkable. The main areas:
- Peninsula Tip (Northwest): Here are the Sea Organ and the Greeting to the Sun. The place for sunset.
- Forum: The ancient Roman forum in the center of the peninsula, surrounded by the main churches.
- Kalelarga (Široka ulica): The main street of the old town, from the city wall to the forum. Shops, cafés, promenade.
- Harbor (Southeast side): Ferries to the islands (Ugljan, Pašman, Dugi Otok) depart here. Along Obala Kneza Branimira are lined with restaurants.
- Voštarnica/Jazine: Modern districts east of the old town. Supermarket (Konzum, Lidl), bus station, cheaper accommodations.
- Borik & Puntamika: Beach districts 3–4 km northwest. Hotels with pools, pebble beaches, quieter.
Sights
★★★ Sea Organ (Morske orgulje)
The Sea Organ of Zadar is unique worldwide — an architectural sound installation designed by Croatian architect Nikola Bašić and inaugurated in 2005. Beneath the white marble steps at the western tip of the peninsula are hidden 35 organ pipes of different lengths and inclinations, arranged in 7 groups of 5 pipes each.
The principle: The waves of the Adriatic Sea push air through the tubes, creating melancholic, never identical chords — an eternal concert that constantly changes with the wind and waves. In calm seas, the tones are gentle and meditative; in storms, the organ becomes louder and more dramatic.
Sit on the wide steps leading down to the sea, close your eyes, and let the sounds wash over you. At sunset, the experience becomes magical — the setting sun bathes everything in gold and orange while the organ plays. It is one of the most emotional moments you can experience in Croatia.
Free access, 24/7. The best sounds with moderate wave action (Bora wind). Barely audible in complete calm.
★★★ Greeting to the Sun (Pozdrav Suncu)
Right next to the Sea Organ is Nikola Bašić's second installation: a 22-meter-wide circle of 300 glass plates, beneath which solar cells and LED modules are embedded. During the day, they store solar energy, and after sunset, a fascinating light show begins — pulsating colors and patterns symbolizing the entire solar system.
The discs show the orbits of the planets in concentric rings. The installation produces enough electricity to power the entire harbor lighting of the old town. Art, technology, and sustainability in one.
Children love to run over the glowing plates. Most impressive 30 minutes after sunset, when the darkness makes the colors appear most intense.
Free access, 24/7. Light show only after dark.
★★ Forum
The largest Roman forum on the eastern Adriatic (90 × 45 m) was built between the 1st century BC and the 3rd century AD. Of the former splendor, column stumps, paving stones, and an almost completely preserved Corinthian column remain. The column served as a pillory in the Middle Ages — convicts were publicly displayed here in chains.
Today, the forum is the central square of the old town, surrounded by the most important sacred buildings. In summer, open-air concerts are held here. A place to sit, watch, and marvel at 2,000 years of history in one spot.
Free access.
★★ Cathedral of St. Anastasia (Katedrala Sv. Stošije)
The largest cathedral in Dalmatia dates from the 12th–13th century and is a masterpiece of Romanesque architecture. The three-nave basilica impresses with its simple elegance — especially the stone carvings on the facade and the choir stalls inside.
The bell tower (56 m) was only completed in the 19th century and offers the best panoramic view over Zadar. From the top, you can see the entire peninsula, the offshore islands, and on clear days, as far as the Velebit Mountains.
Cathedral: free. Bell tower: 5€. Daily 9 a.m.–6 p.m. (summer), 10 a.m.–4 p.m. (winter). Bell tower: narrow spiral staircase.
★★ Church of St. Donatus (Sv. Donat)
The landmark of Zadar: a mighty, cylindrical church from the 9th century, built directly on the stones of the ancient forum — Roman inscriptions are still visible in the ground. The 27-meter-high round building is one of the most significant pre-Romanesque structures in Europe.
The church is no longer used for services but as a concert hall. The acoustics inside the round stone building are exceptional — the summer concerts "Musical Evenings in St. Donat" (July–August) with medieval and Renaissance music are legendary.
5€. April–October: daily 9 a.m.–9 p.m. Concerts in summer separately (15–25€).
★★ Museum of Ancient Glass (Muzej antičkog stakla)
Unique worldwide: An entire museum dedicated to ancient glassmaking. In an elegant 19th-century palace, over 2,000 glass objects from Roman times are presented — perfume bottles, drinking vessels, jewelry, urns. Many were found during excavations in and around Zadar.
Highlight: The glassblowing workshop on the ground floor, where you can watch glass being blown using ancient techniques. You can also have a souvenir blown for yourself.
8€. Mon–Sat 9 a.m.–9 p.m. (summer), 9 a.m.–4 p.m. (winter). Workshop: variable, usually in the morning.
Polačišće 1 (near Five Wells Square)
★ Five Wells Square (Trg pet bunara)
A picturesque square with five wells from the 16th century, which supplied Zadar with drinking water during Venetian rule. The cistern beneath the square held enough water for a months-long siege. Today, a quiet place to linger, surrounded by a small park (Queen Jelena Park) — the oldest park in Dalmatia.
Free access.
★ Land Gate (Kopnena vrata)
The magnificent city gate from 1543 in Renaissance style was the main entrance to the city from the land side. The Venetian Lion of St. Mark still adorns the archway. Directly behind it begins the pedestrian zone of the old town.
Free access.
★ People's Square (Narodni trg)
The social center of Zadar since the Renaissance. The city loggia (1565) now hosts changing exhibitions, and the city guard (Gradska straža) with its distinctive clock tower dates from the 16th century. Around it, cafés with old town flair.
Free access.
City Tour: From Antiquity to Avant-garde
Duration: 90 minutes | Distance: approx. 2.5 km | Best Time: Start in the late afternoon to be at the Sea Organ by sunset
1. Land Gate (Start)
Begin at the Renaissance gate from 1543. Venetian Lion of Saint Mark on top, a photo opportunity. Enter the old town through the archway.
2. Five Wells Square
Immediately left after the Land Gate. The five wells and the small park around them. A brief photo stop.
3. Museum of Ancient Glass
If open: plan 30–40 minutes. The glassblowing workshop on the ground floor alone is worth it. Alternatively, admire from the outside and move on.
4. Kalelarga (Main Street)
The wide promenade leads you directly to the Forum. Ice cream stop or window shopping along the way.
5. People's Square (Narodni trg)
Turn right to the social center. Clock tower, city guard, loggia. Here, old town life pulsates.
6. Forum & St. Donatus
The ancient Roman forum with the mighty round church. Go inside (5€), the acoustics are impressive. On the ground: Roman inscriptions.
7. Cathedral of St. Anastasia
Right next to the Forum. If you're fit: climb the bell tower (5€). The view over the peninsula and the islands is worth the sweat.
8. Through the alleys to the northern tip
Stroll through the narrow side alleys towards the northwest. Laundry over the alleys, cats in doorways, unplastered stone walls — the real Zadar.
9. Sea Organ
Down the wide marble steps to the water. Sit down, close your eyes, and listen to the organ. As the sun sets lower, you'll understand why Hitchcock loved this sunset.
10. Greeting to the Sun (End)
Right next to the organ. Wait for dusk — when the glass plates begin to glow and the organ plays simultaneously, it's magical. The perfect ending.
💡 Tipp
Start the tour about 2 hours before sunset. This gives you enough time for the sights and reaches the Sea Organ just at the golden hour. Check sunset times!
Eating & Drinking in Zadar
€ Budget (Main course under 12€)
Pet Bunara · Ul. Borelli 7
Simple konoba right by the Five Wells Square. Generous portions of classic Dalmatian cuisine: Ćevapi, grilled fish, Pašticada. Local regulars — always a good sign.
7–12€ · Daily 10 a.m.–11 p.m.
Bruschetta Zadar · Ul. Mihovila Klaića 10
As the name suggests: bruschetta variations as a specialty — plus pasta, salads, and light Mediterranean dishes. Ideal for a quick, inexpensive lunch in the old town.
6–11€ · Daily 9 a.m.–11 p.m.
Market (Pazar) · Obala Kneza Branimira
The daily market on the harbor side offers fresh fruit, cheese, pršut, and bread. Perfect for a picnic on the steps of the Sea Organ.
1–5€ · Daily 6 a.m.–2 p.m.
€€ Mid-range (Main course 12–25€)
Proto Food & More · Ul. Stomorice 4
Modern restaurant in the old town with creative Dalmatian cuisine. Tuna tartare, black risotto, homemade pasta. Stylish decor, friendly service. Reservation recommended.
14–25€ · Daily 12–11 p.m. · ★★
Konoba Stomorica · Ul. Stomorice 12
Traditional konoba with stone walls and rustic charm. Fresh fish on the grill, octopus salad, lamb under the peka (pre-order!). Family-run with warm service.
12–22€ · Mon–Sat 11 a.m.–11 p.m. · ★★
2Ribara · Ul. Blaža Jurjeva 1
"Two Fishermen" — a fish restaurant right by the harbor. Daily catch on ice, you choose your fish. Grilled, baked, or as buzara (in tomato-white wine sauce). Seafood platter for two is an experience.
15–28€ · Daily 12–12 a.m. · ★★
€€€ High-end (Main course from 25€)
Foša · Ul. Dmitra Zvonimira 2
The gourmet restaurant by the city moat (Foša), located right by a small harbor. Fine seafood cuisine with a modern twist, excellent wine selection from all over Croatia. Squid with truffle, scallops, tasting menu.
25–45€ · Daily 12–12 a.m. · ★★★
Kaštel · Bedemi zadarskih pobuna 13
High-end cuisine in a restaurant on the city wall with sea views. Creative fish dishes, lamb from Velebit, seasonal menus. One of the most beautiful places for dinner in Zadar.
28–50€ · Daily 12–11 p.m. · ★★★
Bars & Nightlife
The Garden Lounge · Bedemi zadarskih pobuna 13
The legendary bar that put Zadar on the nightlife map. Founded by UB40 drummer James Brown (yes, really) — a lounge bar on the city wall overlooking the sea. Cocktails, DJ sets, sunset sessions. The mother of the "Garden Festival," which made Zadar a hotspot for electronic music.
Cocktails 8–14€ · Daily from 6 p.m. (summer). Closed in winter.
Arsenal · Trg tri bunara 1
Impressive multifunctional venue in a renovated Venetian arsenal (shipyard) from the 18th century. Bar, restaurant, and concert hall under a huge vaulted roof. Local craft beers, live music, cultural events.
Beer 4–6€, cocktails 8–12€ · Daily from 9 a.m.
Ledana · Narodni trg
The terrace bar on the People's Square — Zadar's living room. Coffee in the morning, Aperol Spritz in the evening. People-watching at its best. The most popular meeting place for locals for decades.
Coffee 2–3€, Spritz 7€ · Daily 7 a.m.–1 a.m.
Buba Bar · Ul. Dalmatinskog sabora 4
Small cocktail bar in a side alley with fairy lights and a relaxed atmosphere. Friendly bartenders who also accommodate individual requests. Good for the second drink of the evening.
Cocktails 7–11€ · Daily from 6 p.m.
Kult Caffe · Stomorica
Café by day with excellent coffee, bar by night with a local music scene. The city's hipster hangout with indie concerts and art exhibitions. Smoky, cozy, authentic.
Beer 3–5€ · Daily 8 a.m.–2 a.m.
💡 Tipp
The best bar experience: Start with a sundowner at the Garden Lounge on the city wall, then head to Arsenal for live music, and end in the small bars of the side alleys. On Fridays and Saturdays, there's activity in the old town until 3 a.m.
Staying in Zadar
€ Budget (under 60€/night)
Boutique Hostel Forum · Ul. Široka 20
Centrally located on the Kalelarga, in the heart of the old town. Private rooms and dorms, rooftop terrace with Forum view. Clean, modern, social. One of the highest-rated hostels in all of Croatia.
Dorm from 18€, private rooms from 55€
Apartments in the Old Town
Zadar has hundreds of vacation rentals on Booking.com and Airbnb. In the old town, you'll find charming stone house apartments from 45–70€/night. Advantage: kitchen available, market right next door.
€€ Mid-range (60–150€/night)
Hotel Bastion · Bedemi zadarskih pobuna 13
4-star boutique hotel in a converted medieval fortress tower right on the city wall. Elegant rooms, some with sea views, small wellness area. Central location, good restaurant.
From 120€/night · ★★
Hotel Kalelarga · Ul. Mihe Klaića 1
Small, modern boutique hotel directly on Zadar's main street. 10 individually decorated rooms, soundproofed despite central location. Good breakfast, helpful staff.
From 90€/night · ★★
€€€ High-end (from 150€/night)
Art Hotel Kalelarga · Ul. Mihe Klaića 1
The sister hotel of Kalelarga — even a notch more elegant. Design rooms with local art references, rooftop terrace, excellent breakfast buffet. Adult atmosphere.
From 160€/night · ★★★
Falkensteiner Hotel Adriana · Majstora Radovana 7
4-star superior directly by the sea in Puntamika (3 km from the center). Pool, spa, private beach, half-board possible. Ideal for families wanting to combine beach and city. Bus connection to the center every 20 minutes.
From 180€/night · ★★★
Practical Info Zadar
Arrival
Zadar Airport (ZAD): 8 km east of the city. Direct flights from Germany (Frankfurt, Berlin, Cologne, Munich — mainly Eurowings, Ryanair) seasonally from April to October. Shuttle bus (Liburnija, 5€, 20 min.) or taxi (25–30€).
Bus Station: 1 km east of the old town (Ul. Ante Starčevića 1). Excellent connections:
• Zagreb: 3–4 hours, 15–22€, hourly
• Split: 3 hours, 12–18€, every 1–2 hours
• Dubrovnik: 7–8 hours, 25–35€, 4–5 connections daily
• Šibenik: 1.5 hours, 8–12€, frequently
• Plitvice: 2–2.5 hours, 12–18€, several daily
Ferries: Jadrolinija and smaller shipping companies connect Zadar with:
• Ugljan (Preko): 25 min., every 1–2 hours, 4€ per person / 25€ per car
• Pašman (Tkon): 30 min.
• Dugi Otok (Brbinj): 1.5 hours
• Ancona (Italy): 5–7 hours, Jadrolinija, from 45€ (summer 2× weekly)
Getting Around
The old town is entirely walkable — you don't need a car within Zadar. City buses (Liburnija) run for 1.50€ (at the kiosk) to the beaches and suburbs. Rental cars are only useful for excursions (Plitvice, Kornati embarkation Murter). Numerous rental agencies at the airport and in the city.
Parking
There is no parking in the old town. Nearest parking garages: Jazine Garage (4€/hr), parking at the Obala (2€/hr). In summer, arrive early or book a hotel with parking directly.