Santa Clara — The City of Che

Santa Clara (240,000 inhabitants) is inextricably linked with Ernesto "Che" Guevara. Here, on December 29, 1958, the Battle of Santa Clara took place—the decisive victory of the Revolution that forced dictator Batista to flee and sealed Fidel Castro's triumph. Che Guevara's guerrilla troops derailed a government armored train and captured the city in a few hours.

Sights

★★★ Mausoleum del Che Guevara — The memorial on the western outskirts of the city consists of three parts: the bronze statue of Che (6.7 m) on a pedestal with his farewell letter to Fidel, the mausoleum below, where since 1997 the remains of Che and his comrades rest (fallen in Bolivia in 1967, found only in 1997), and the museum with personal items, photos, and letters. An eternal flame burns over the grave. The visit is free, moving, and for many an emotional highlight of the Cuba trip—regardless of political stance.

★★ Monumento al Tren Blindado — At the original site stands the derailed armored train as an open-air museum (1 €). Four wagons document the battle. A bulldozer, with which Che's troops tore up the tracks, stands next to it.

Santa Clara is also Cuba's most progressive city: The university attracts a young crowd, there is an active LGBTQ+ scene, and the liveliest alternative cultural scene outside Havana. The Mejunje (Calle Marta Abreu) is a legendary cultural space—half ruin, half club—with drag shows, live music, and theater.