María la Gorda — Diving★★
María la Gorda is located at the southwestern tip of Cuba, on the Guanahacabibes Peninsula — and is Cuba's best coastal diving area. The name (translated: "fat Maria") supposedly comes from a Venezuelan woman who was abandoned here by pirates and subsequently hosted sailors.
The diving area offers over 50 dive sites along a steep wall that drops to 200 m right off the beach. The coral reefs are in excellent condition — far from sewage and agriculture. You can see Black Corals (rare!), giant sponges, lobsters, barracudas, turtles, occasionally sharks, and between November and March, whale sharks.
The only accommodation is the Hotel María la Gorda (state-run, simple but right on the beach, from 60 €/night). The attached dive center offers dives from 30 €, snorkeling from 10 €, PADI courses available.
The journey is the biggest hurdle: 150 km from Pinar del Río over a lonely, potholed road through the Guanahacabibes National Park. No public transport — rental car or taxi (80–100 € one-way). But it is precisely this remoteness that makes it so appealing.
💡 Tipp
Plan at least 2–3 nights — the long journey is only worth it if you do several dives. Bring your own snacks, the hotel offerings are limited. Sunscreen and mosquito repellent are a must!
