Pinar del Río

Pinar del Río, the provincial capital 25 km south of Viñales, is not a tourist highlight but an authentic Cuban provincial town. Most visitors just pass through — but a short stop is worthwhile.

Sights include the Fábrica de Tabacos Francisco Donatién (the province's large tobacco factory, tours 5 €), the Palacio de Guasch (an eclectic palace from the early 20th century housing the natural history museum), and the Fábrica de Bebidas Casa Garay, where Guayabita del Pinar is produced — a sweet guava liqueur that has been the region's specialty since 1892 (tasting 2 €).

The town has a pleasant, unpretentious atmosphere with colonial houses along the main street, horse-drawn carts in traffic, and friendly locals surprised to see tourists.