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Verstehen · Kapitel 14

Art & Architecture

Mallorca Reiseführer

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VerstehenKapitel 14: Art & Architecture
Verstehen · Kapitel 14

Art & Architecture

From the largest Gothic cathedral on the Mediterranean to Art Nouveau jewels and Miro's explosions of color — Mallorca is an open-air museum that compellingly combines architecture and art.

Gothic in Mallorca

The Catalan Gothic shapes Palma and all of Mallorca more than any other architectural style. It differs from French Gothic with wider, lower naves, fewer buttresses, and larger wall surfaces — an adaptation to the Mediterranean climate and light.

La Seu — The Cathedral of Palma

The largest building in Mallorca and one of the most impressive Gothic cathedrals in Europe. Begun in 1300 by Jaume II on the foundations of a mosque, completed only in 1601. Numbers that impress: 44 meters in height in the main nave (higher than Notre-Dame), 121 meters in length, a rosette of 13.8 meters in diameter with 1,236 glass stones. Twice a year — around February 2nd and November 11th — the rising sun projects the rosette as a light spectacle on the opposite interior wall: the famous "Festa de la Llum" (Festival of Light). Antoni Gaudi worked on the interior from 1904 to 1914 — his floating canopy over the altar is an early testament to his organic style. The artist Miquel Barcelo designed the Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament in 2007 — a ceramic landscape depicting an underwater world and the multiplication of bread. Controversial but fascinating.

Llotja de Palma

The former maritime trade exchange (1420–1452) is a masterpiece of Catalan late Gothic. Designed by Guillem Sagrera (who also worked on Castel Nuovo in Naples), the single large hall impresses with its six twisted columns that rise like palm trunks to the ceiling and support the ribbed vault. Today, the Llotja is used for temporary exhibitions — admission is free, and the building alone is worth the visit.

Castell de Bellver

Europe's only circular Gothic castle — built for Jaume II from 1300 to 1311 on a hill west of Palma. The circular layout with a round courtyard and three round towers plus a freestanding keep (connected by an arch bridge) is architecturally unique. The view from the terrace — 360 degrees over Palma, the harbor, and the bay — is breathtaking. Inside, the Castell houses the city museum with Roman sculptures from Pollentia.

Tipp

The light spectacle in the cathedral (rosette projected on the interior wall) takes place around February 2nd and November 11th — each shortly after 8 a.m. A magical moment that invites photography. Arrive early — the cathedral gets crowded on these days!

Modernisme

Around the turn of the 20th century, Palma experienced a Modernisme boom — the Catalan version of Art Nouveau, related to the Art Nouveau in France and the Vienna Secession style. Wealthy merchants and nobles had representative city palaces built in the new style, and Palma became — after Barcelona — the second most important Modernisme city in the Catalan-speaking world.

Can Forteza Rey

Perhaps the most striking building in Palma stands at Placa del Mercat: The facade of Can Forteza Rey virtually explodes in color and form — ceramic tiles, wrought iron balconies, imaginative animal and plant motifs. Designed by Lluis Forteza Rey (1908–1909), it is a prime example of the decorative exuberance of Modernisme. The building is privately owned and can only be admired from the outside — but it's worth it.

Gran Hotel (CaixaForum)

The Gran Hotel (1903) by Lluis Domenech i Montaner — the same architect who created the Palau de la Musica Catalana and the Hospital de Sant Pau in Barcelona — was Palma's first luxury hotel. The magnificent facade with ceramic decor, floral motifs, and wrought iron balconies has been extensively restored and now houses the cultural center CaixaForum with changing exhibitions. On the ground floor is a permanent exhibition with works by the Mallorcan painter Hermen Anglada Camarasa — free admission.

Almacenes El Aguila

The former department store El Aguila (1908) at Placa del Mercat impresses with its monumental facade — ceramic cladding, large glass surfaces, and a distinctive eagle (Aguila) on the roof. A testament to the bourgeois self-confidence of the Mallorcan commercial elite.

Can Casasayas and Pensio Menorquina

The twin buildings Can Casasayas and the former Pension Menorquina (1908–1911) at Placa del Mercat stand out with their curved, almost flowing facades — often referred to as "Palma's little Casa Batllo." The wave movements of the balconies and the organic shapes indeed recall Gaudi's masterpieces in Barcelona. Designed by architect Francesc Roca i Simo.

A Modernisme walk through Palma can be done in 2–3 hours: Start at Placa del Mercat (Gran Hotel, Can Forteza Rey, Can Casasayas), continue through the old town to Passeig des Born and into the side streets — everywhere hide Art Nouveau details: facade tiles, wooden doors with stained glass, wrought iron lanterns.

Miro & Contemporary Art

Joan Miro and Mallorca — this is a love story that lasted over 50 years and left one of the island's most important artistic legacies.

Miro in Mallorca

Joan Miro (1893–1983) first came to Mallorca in 1929 — his mother was from a Mallorcan family, and in 1929 he married Pilar Juncosa, also a Mallorcan. However, it was not until 1956 that he moved permanently to the island and had a studio built in Cala Major, a suburb of Palma, by the renowned architect Josep Lluis Sert. This studio — flooded with light, spacious, with a view of the sea — became the workshop where Miro created much of his later work: paintings, sculptures, ceramics, prints.

Fundacio Pilar i Joan Miro

The foundation, established by Miro himself in 1981, includes the Sert studio, a museum building designed by Rafael Moneo (1992), and Miro's former residence (Son Boter). Visiting the studio is the highlight: It has been left as Miro last used it — brushes, paint tubes, half-finished canvases, found objects that served as inspiration. You can almost physically feel the creative spirit. The collection includes over 6,000 works, including paintings, drawings, and a remarkable collection of prints. Admission: about 9 €. Be sure to visit the sculpture garden.

Es Baluard Museu d'Art Contemporani

Palma's museum for contemporary art, opened in 2004 in a spectacular building that merges old city walls from the 16th century with modern architecture. The collection includes works by Miro, Picasso, Barcelo, Tapies, and contemporary Balearic artists. The rooftop terrace offers one of the most beautiful views of the harbor and the cathedral. Admission: about 6 €, free on Friday afternoons.

Other Art Venues

  • CaixaForum (in the former Gran Hotel) — high-caliber temporary exhibitions, free admission
  • Museo Sa Bassa Blanca (Alcudia) — the Yannick and Ben Jakober collection in spectacular architecture above the Bay of Pollenca: contemporary art, historical children's portraits, and a sculpture park
  • Galleries in Santa Catalina and Sa Gerreria — Palma's vibrant gallery scene is concentrated in these two districts
  • Nit de l'Art (September) — Palma's art night, where galleries, museums, and studios open until midnight

Tipp

The Fundacio Miro in Cala Major is quietest on Saturday mornings. Take city bus No. 3 or 46 from Placa d'Espanya. Tip: Visit the studio first, then the exhibition, then the sculpture garden — this sequence makes the visit most impactful.

Dry Stone Walls (Marges)

They are unspectacular and yet one of the most impressive cultural testimonies of Mallorca: the Marges — dry stone walls, stacked without a drop of mortar, that have shaped the landscape of the Tramuntana for centuries.

A UNESCO Heritage

The dry stone walls of the Serra de Tramuntana have been part of the UNESCO World Heritage since 2011. It is estimated that there are over 15,000 kilometers of these walls on Mallorca — a distance that would stretch from Palma to Beijing. They were built over centuries by Margers (dry stone wall builders), a group of craftsmen whose knowledge was passed down orally from generation to generation.

Function and Technique

The Marges fulfill several vital functions: They create terraces (Marjades) on the steep slopes of the Tramuntana, enabling the cultivation of olives, almonds, and wine. They prevent erosion, channel rainwater in a controlled manner, provide wind protection, and mark property boundaries. The technique is simple and ingenious: Stones are interlocked without binding agents so that they support each other — the correct selection and placement of each stone determine the durability.

Good dry stone walls last centuries — some of the still-standing walls date back to the Moorish period (10th–13th century). Modern Margers are now trained in special courses to preserve the knowledge. The Escola de Margers in Soller trains new dry stone builders — a profession experiencing a renaissance thanks to UNESCO status and hiking tourism.

Hiking Along the Marges

The most beautiful hikes in Mallorca lead along and through dry stone wall landscapes: the Ruta de Pedra en Sec (GR 221), a long-distance hiking trail that runs through the entire Tramuntana, is the best example. Stages like Deia–Soller, Esporles–Banyalbufar, or Lluc–Pollenca lead through centuries-old terrace landscapes that poetically showcase the interplay of man and nature.

Tipp

On the hike from Banyalbufar to Esporles (about 3 hours, medium difficulty), you will see the island's most spectacular dry stone wall terraces — olive groves on narrow steps stretching from the mountain top to the sea. A masterpiece of rural landscape design.

Architecture of the Fincas

The Finca — the Mallorcan country house — is more than a building: It is an archetype of Mediterranean architecture, born from the practical needs of a rural society and today one of the island's most sought-after real estate and vacation properties.

Construction and Features

Typical features of a Mallorcan finca: thick walls made of local natural stone (Mares sandstone in the south, limestone in the Tramuntana), which cool in summer and warm in winter. Wood-beamed ceilings (Bigues) made of pine or olive wood. Small windows on the sunny side (heat protection), larger ones on the shady side. An inner courtyard (Clastra) as a protected living space. A cistern (Aljub) for rainwater. Roof tiles in warm terracotta. Exterior walls often in typical earth tones — ochre, terracotta, light beige.

Possessions — the Large Estates

Possessions (from Latin possessio — possession) were the estates of the Mallorcan landed gentry. Larger than regular fincas, they often included a manor house (Cases de possessio), a chapel, an oil mill (Tafona), farm buildings, stables, and large lands with olives, almonds, or grain. Many possessions bear historical names that date back centuries: Son Marroig (Deia), Son Moragues (Valldemossa), Son Brull (Pollenca).

In the 20th century, many possessions fell into disrepair as agriculture became unprofitable and families moved to the city. Since the 1990s, they have experienced a renaissance as country hotels: Lavishly restored possessions like Son Brull near Pollenca, Son Net in Puigpunyent, or Finca Son Palou in Orient are among the island's most atmospheric accommodations today. The restoration often follows strict conservation guidelines: Original beams are preserved, Mares stones reused, traditional building techniques applied.

Fincas Today

Finca tourism is an important economic factor: Hundreds of fincas and possessions are approved as agrotourism businesses (Agroturismes) or holiday apartments (Turisme Interior). The most beautiful combine historical atmosphere with modern comfort — a pool in the orange grove, exposed stone masonry next to a designer bathroom, olive oil tasting in their own grove. Prices range from 100 € per night for a simple finca to over 1,000 € for an exclusive possession with staff.

Tipp

Those seeking an authentic finca experience should look inland — around Arta, Campos, Sineu, and Petra, there are beautifully restored fincas at significantly lower prices than on the coast. Plus: You experience the "real" Mallorca.

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