Southwest: Calvià & Andratx
Discovering the Southwest
The southwest of Mallorca encompasses the municipalities of Calvià and Andratx — together one of the wealthiest regions in Spain. Calvià, with around 50,000 inhabitants, has the highest per capita income of all municipalities in the Balearics. You can tell: well-maintained streets, lushly landscaped resorts, marinas full of sailboats, and an infrastructure geared towards affluent vacationers.
The coast stretches over about 50 kilometers from Palmanova in the east to Sant Elm in the west. In between are some of Mallorca's most famous holiday resorts: Magaluf (party mile, currently reinventing itself), Santa Ponça (family mainstream), Peguera (German-influenced, family-friendly), Camp de Mar (quiet, upscale), and Port d'Andratx (the island's most elegant harbor).
In the hinterland, authentic villages surprise: Calvià Pueblo with its medieval church, Andratx with its weekly market (Wednesdays), Capdellà with its almond trees. Here, you can still feel the old Mallorca — just 15 minutes by car from the resorts.
The western end of the coast becomes wilder and more dramatic. From Camp de Mar, the coastal road climbs into the mountains, heralding the Serra de Tramuntana. Sant Elm is the last town before the wilderness — and the starting point for boat trips to the uninhabited island of Sa Dragonera, a nature park full of lizards and seabirds.
Plan 2–4 days for the southwest depending on your interests. Those seeking luxury and beach clubs stay in Illetes or Port d'Andratx. Families are well catered for in Peguera or Santa Ponça. Those preferring nature and hiking use Sant Elm as a base.
Tipp
The southwest is the ideal region if you don't want a rental car. The bus connections are excellent: line 104 (Palma–Peguera–Camp de Mar–Port d'Andratx, every 20–30 min.), line 107 (Palma–Palmanova–Santa Ponça, every 15 min.). Only for Sant Elm and Sa Dragonera do you need a car or the less frequent bus 102.
Port d'Andratx★★
Port d'Andratx is the most elegant harbor town in Mallorca — and one of the most beautiful in the entire Mediterranean. The natural, almost circular bay offers a perfect natural harbor that has been used since antiquity. Today, hundreds of yachts are moored here — from the elegant 12-meter sailing yacht to the 50-meter mega yacht — and the waterfront is lined with restaurants, boutiques, and art galleries.
In the last 30 years, the town has transformed from a sleepy fishing village into the Beverly Hills of Mallorca. In the hills around the bay, the villas of the rich and famous are hidden — international celebrities, entrepreneurs, and nobility have their summer residences here. Property prices are among the highest in Spain: 5–15 million euros for a villa with a sea view are not uncommon.
Nevertheless, Port d'Andratx has retained its charm. The small fishing port at the west end still functions, with fishermen bringing in their catch in the morning. The architecture is kept low (maximum 3 stories), the colors muted, no high-rise hotels. In the evening, when the yachts glow golden in the sunset and the restaurants open their terraces, the place reveals its full magic.
The art scene is surprisingly lively. About a dozen galleries showcase contemporary art — from established international artists to local Mallorcan talents. The CCA Andratx (Centro Cultural Andratx), 5 minutes outside in a converted factory, is one of the largest art centers in southern Europe. Admission about 8 €.
For swimming, it's best to go to Cala Llamp (5 minutes by car south, rocky cove with crystal-clear water) or Playa de Camp de Mar (10 minutes, beautiful sandy beach). Port d'Andratx itself doesn't have a proper bathing beach — people come here to see and be seen, to eat and to stroll.
The sunset over the sea, viewed from the harbor promenade or from one of the hilltop restaurants, is one of the most beautiful experiences in Mallorca. The sun sets directly behind the island of Sa Dragonera on the horizon — especially dramatic from October to March.
Tipp
Parking in Port d'Andratx in the evening is a nightmare. It's best to use the free parking at the entrance to the town (signposted, about a 10-minute walk to the harbor) or take the bus (line 102/104 from Palma). On Sundays, the town is much quieter — many restaurants are closed, but the atmosphere is more relaxed.
Sant Elm & Sa Dragonera
Sant Elm (also San Telmo) is the westernmost coastal town in Mallorca — a small, sleepy village at the end of the road, where the mountains of the Serra de Tramuntana plunge directly into the sea. Here, the tourist infrastructure ends and the wilderness begins. That's exactly what makes it so appealing.
The town has a pretty sandy beach (about 100 m wide), protected by an offshore island and therefore usually offering calm waters. In summer, there is a lifeguard, sunbed rental (about 8 €), and two beach restaurants. Nothing spectacular, but pleasant and never overcrowded.
The real star is the island of Sa Dragonera, which lies like a sleeping dragon (hence the name) right off the coast. The 4-kilometer-long, uninhabited island has been a nature park since 1995 and is home to unique wildlife: the Balearic wall lizard (Podarcis lilfordi) is found only here and on a few other Balearic islands. Thousands of these tame, dark green lizards bask on the rocks — a highlight for nature lovers and photographers.
The crossing takes only 15–20 minutes with the small excursion boats that depart several times a day from Sant Elm in summer (about 14–16 € round trip). On the island, there are three marked hiking trails: to the old lighthouse Far de Tramuntana (1 hour, easy), to the middle viewpoint (30 min.), and to the lighthouse Far Vell at the top (2 hours, more challenging). The views over the sea and back to the Mallorcan coast are magnificent.
Important: On Sa Dragonera, there is no drinking water, no restaurants, and no shade on the hiking trails. Bring enough water (at least 2 liters per person), sun protection, sturdy footwear, and a picnic. The boats run about every 1–2 hours — remember the return time!
Some of Mallorca's most beautiful coastal hikes also start from Sant Elm. The path to the abandoned Trappist monastery La Trapa (about 2 hours round trip) leads through fragrant maquis vegetation with breathtaking views of Sa Dragonera. Moderately difficult, steep at the end — but the view from the monastery grounds is one of the best on the island.
Tipp
The hike to the La Trapa monastery is an absolute must for hiking enthusiasts. Best to start in the morning (before 9 a.m.), when it's still cool. From the monastery, you have the perfect view of Sa Dragonera with the rising sun. Combination: hike in the morning, swim in Sant Elm at noon, cross over to Sa Dragonera by boat in the afternoon.
Peguera & Camp de Mar
Peguera (also Paguera) has been one of the most popular holiday resorts for German-speaking tourists on Mallorca for decades — and for good reason. The town offers three excellent sandy beaches, a well-maintained pedestrian zone, a plethora of restaurants and hotels in all price ranges, and an infrastructure specifically tailored to families.
The three beaches — Platja Palmira (the main beach, about 500 m), Platja Torà (smaller, quieter), and Platja La Romana (at the western end) — are all well-maintained, with fine sand, clean water, and lifeguards in summer. A coastal path connects all three and is also accessible with strollers. Sunbeds: about 8 € each.
The German heritage is visible everywhere: menus in German, pharmacies with German staff, German bakeries (fresh bread and rolls in the morning!), even a German medical service. For some, this is reassuring, for others a reason to avoid the place. The fact is: Peguera is well-organized, safe, and family-friendly — though not particularly authentically Mallorcan.
The boulevards behind the beach offer everything: souvenir shops, fashion boutiques, ice cream parlors, bike rentals, pharmacies. In the evening, the pedestrian zone becomes a promenade with live music in some bars. Nothing wild, more cozy.
Camp de Mar, 5 minutes by car west, is Peguera's quieter, more upscale sister. A single, beautiful sandy beach (about 180 m) in a sheltered bay, surrounded by pine forests. The special feature: a small rock restaurant on a platform in the sea (Restaurant Illeta), accessible via a wooden footbridge — one of the most photogenic motifs on Mallorca's southwest coast. Main courses 15–30 €, the location is unique.
Camp de Mar has fewer shops and nightlife than Peguera, but more peace and a sophisticated atmosphere. Several 4- and 5-star hotels (including the Steigenberger Golf & Spa Resort with one of the best golf courses in Mallorca), but also affordable apartments. The Golf de Andratx (18 holes, par 72) is one of the top courses on the island: green fee from about 85 € in the low season, 130 € in summer.
Tipp
Peguera is an excellent base for families who want to combine a beach holiday with excursions. The bus connection to Palma (line 104, every 20 min., about 40 min. ride) and to Port d'Andratx (same line, 20 min.) is excellent. A rental car is only necessary if you want to explore the Tramuntana or the east.
Illetes & Portals Nous★★
Illetes (also Illetas) is Mallorca's most exclusive beach resort — located just 8 kilometers west of Palma and yet a different world. The small peninsula between two bays offers some of the most beautiful beaches near the city: turquoise, shallow water, white sand, plus a view of the Bay of Palma and the cathedral in the distance.
The Platja d'Illetes is the main beach: about 200 meters of fine sand, gently sloping, ideal for children. Next to it is the Platja de Ses Caletes, a bit rockier, but with even clearer water for snorkeling. Both beaches have been repeatedly awarded as Spain's best beaches.
Here is also the highest concentration of beach clubs on Mallorca. The Balneario Illetas offers sunbeds from about 25 € (weekends up to 35 €), plus cocktails, sushi, and DJ sets in the afternoon. The Virtual Club and the Illetas Beach Club are similarly positioned. Luxury has its price — but once you've lounged on a Bali bed with an Aperol Spritz (12 €) and watched the sunset over the Bay of Palma, you'll understand why people pay.
Portals Nous, right next to Illetes, is even more exclusive. The Puerto Portals is Mallorca's most glamorous marina — this is where the superyachts dock (regularly 50–80 meters in summer), and the restaurants and boutiques along the marina cater to a wealthy clientele. Flaniterra, Ritzi, and Cappuccino Grand Café are the places to see and be seen.
The beach of Portals Nous (Platja de Portals Nous) lies below the town: a small, sheltered sandy beach (about 100 m) with some good restaurants above. Quieter and more authentic than Puerto Portals — locals also come here to swim.
Historically interesting: Between Illetes and Portals once lay the Marineland, one of the oldest marine parks in Europe (since 1970). After years of controversy over animal welfare and economic problems, Marineland was finally closed in 2020. The site stands empty and awaits repurposing.
If you want to save: The public beaches in Illetes are free — you don't have to go to a beach club. Bring your own mat, your own umbrella, your own drinks, and enjoy the same turquoise water as the beach club guest next door. Bus line 3 from Palma (every 15 min., about 20 min. ride, 2 €).
Tipp
Illetes is perfect for a beach day from Palma: take bus line 3 (every 15 min., 20 min. ride), swim at the beach, have fish for lunch, stroll to Puerto Portals in the afternoon and enjoy a coffee. Return to Palma in the evening. Cost without beach club: under 30€ per person. With beach club: 80–150€.
Santa Ponça & Palmanova
Santa Ponça and Palmanova are the mainstream holiday resorts on Mallorca's southwest coast — and they make no secret of it. Large hotels, all-inclusive resorts, souvenir shops, international restaurants, and a well-oiled tourist machinery. This may sound off-putting at first, but it certainly has its place: anyone looking for a straightforward, well-organized beach holiday — especially with family — will be well catered for here.
Santa Ponça has a long, wide sandy beach (about 500 m), gently sloping into the water and awarded the Blue Flag. Behind it stretches a pedestrian zone with shops, restaurants, and bars. The town has a large British community — fish & chips and full English breakfast are part of the cityscape. In the hinterland, there are three golf courses (Golf Santa Ponça I, II, and III), which are among the most played on the island. Green fee from about 60 €.
Historically, Santa Ponça is significant: Here, in 1229, King Jaume I of Aragon landed with his army to reconquer Mallorca from the Moors. A cross on the headland (Creu de Santa Ponça) commemorates this event. Every September, the landing is reenacted with a historical festival.
Palmanova, just 3 kilometers east, is similarly structured but slightly more compact and internationally mixed. Three sandy beaches (Son Maties, Palmanova, and Es Carregador) seamlessly merge into almost 1 kilometer of beach. The beach promenade between Palmanova and Magaluf has been extensively renovated in recent years: wide promenade, palm trees, modern lighting.
Both places offer an excellent infrastructure: supermarkets (Mercadona, Eroski), pharmacies, medical centers with German-speaking staff, bike rentals, diving schools, water parks (Western Water Park in Magaluf, about 30 € entry). For families with children, the overall package is hard to beat.
Honest assessment: Santa Ponça and Palmanova are not places for individual travelers seeking authentic Mallorca. Everything here is geared towards tourism, and the Mallorcan identity takes a back seat. But they are safe, clean, family-friendly, and affordable — and sometimes that's exactly what's needed. The proximity to Palma (20 min. by bus) allows for a trip to the real city at any time.
Tipp
If you're staying in Santa Ponça or Palmanova, you should definitely spend an evening inland: the village of Calvià (10 min. by car) has a pretty plaza with authentic restaurants that charge a fraction of the beach prices. Or go to Palma in the evening — the bus connection (line 107) runs until midnight.
Dining in the Southwest
Port d'Andratx — Harbor Cuisine at a High Level
Sumailla · Av. de Gabriel Roca 37, Port d'Andratx
Nikkei cuisine (Peruvian-Japanese fusion) at the highest level, right at the harbor. The chef is a former Nobu cook. Sea bass tiradito, Wagyu gyoza, perfect ceviches. Stylish interior, open kitchen. One of the best restaurants in the southwest.
35–70€ · Tue–Sat 19:30–23:00 · ★★★ · Reservation recommended
Rocamar · Av. de Gabriel Roca 32, Port d'Andratx
Classic harbor restaurant, an institution for decades. Fish and seafood in traditional preparation — gambas a la plancha, arroz brut, caldereta de langosta (lobster stew, about 65€ for 2 people, order 24 hours in advance!). Terrace right on the water.
25–45€ · Daily 12–23 · ★★
La Consigna · Av. de Gabriel Roca 4, Port d'Andratx
Cool tapas spot at the end of the harbor. Small dishes to share: pulpo a la gallega, patatas bravas, jamón ibérico. Good wine selection, relaxed atmosphere. Perfect for an evening when you don't want a three-course meal.
15–30€ · Daily 18–24
Beach Clubs & Beach Restaurants
Gran Folies Beach Club · Cala Llamp, near Port d'Andratx
Spectacular beach club in a rocky cove: swimming platforms over crystal-clear water, cocktail bar, Mediterranean cuisine. The location is unique — it feels like being on a Greek island. Sunbed including minimum consumption about 30–50€. DJ sets on weekends.
20–40€ (food) · April–October · ★★
Restaurant Illeta · Camp de Mar
The famous rock restaurant on the small island off Camp de Mar, accessible via a wooden footbridge. Fresh fish, paella, grilled squid — solid cuisine, but you mainly pay for the unique location. Photogenic and romantic.
18–35€ · April–October, daily 10–18
Santa Ponça & Peguera — Good Value for Money
Randemar · Carrer Constitució 7, Calvià Pueblo
10 minutes inland from Santa Ponça: a hidden gem in a converted oil mill. Creative Mallorcan cuisine with seasonal products. Tasting menu about 50€, fantastic wine list with Mallorcan rarities. Beautiful garden in summer.
25–55€ · Wed–Mon 19–23 · ★★★ · Reservation required!
Ca Na Toneta · Peguera Boulevard
Mallorcan restaurant with traditional cuisine: tumbet, frit mallorquí (offal pan), lomo con col (pork with cabbage). Not for vegetarians, but authentic and affordable. Family-run for 40 years.
10–20€ · Tue–Sat 12–22
Cappuccino Grand Café · Puerto Portals
Mallorca's most famous café chain started here. Breakfast (avocado toast 14€, eggs benedict 16€), lunch, cocktails. You pay for the ambiance — marina view, designer furniture, beautiful crowd. Touristy, but the experience is part of it.
15–30€ · Daily 8–1
Budget Tip
In the tourist towns of the southwest coast, restaurant prices directly on the beach are 30–50% higher than one street back. The rule of thumb: always go one street away from the sea, that's where the locals eat. Especially in Peguera and Santa Ponça, you can find authentic places with Menú del Día (daily menu with starter, main course, dessert, and drink) for 12–15€.
Tipp
The best culinary experience in the southwest? Sitting at the harbor in Port d'Andratx in the evening, enjoying the sunset, and ordering fresh fish. Alternatively: lunch at the rock restaurant in Camp de Mar — the combination of food, sea, and atmosphere is unique in Mallorca. For authentic Mallorca: head to Calvià Pueblo to Randemar.
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