Serra de Tramuntana

The Serra de Tramuntana stretches from Andratx in the southwest to Cap de Formentor in the northeast — over 90 kilometers of mountains that drop steeply into the Mediterranean. The highest peak is the Puig Major (1,445 m, military restricted area), the highest climbable is the Puig de Massanella (1,365 m). In between: terraced olive groves that have been cultivated for over 800 years, holm oak forests, spectacular gorges, and villages that look as if nothing has changed since the 16th century.

What makes the Tramuntana special? It is the combination of nature and culture that earned it UNESCO status. The terraces, irrigation systems, and dry stone walls are a unique example of the transformation of a mountain landscape by humans — and yet everything seems harmonious, never destroyed.

The Best Bases in the Tramuntana

• Sóller: The largest town in the Tramuntana (13,000 inhabitants), with good infrastructure, restaurants, hotels, and the historic train to Palma. Ideal for families and hikers.
• Valldemossa: The most romantic village, perfect for couples. Smaller, quieter, but also less choice of accommodations and restaurants. 20 min. from Palma.
• Pollença: At the northeast end of the Tramuntana, an excellent hiking base (Puig de Maria, Boquer Valley), lively small town with a Sunday market. Close to the beaches of the north coast.
• Deià: Luxurious and expensive, but beautiful. Ideal for art lovers and gourmets with the necessary budget.

Getting Around

A rental car is almost indispensable — bus connections exist, but the frequency is low (1–3 buses per day on some routes). The MA-10 road, which winds from Andratx to Pollença through the mountains, is one of the most beautiful panoramic roads in Europe, but also narrow, winding, and heavily trafficked in summer. Beware of cycling groups!

Valldemossa may be the most beautiful village in Mallorca — and not only do the travel guides say that, but also the Mallorcans themselves. The mountain village (around 2,000 inhabitants) nestles at an altitude of 400 meters on a slope of the Tramuntana and offers a picture-book ensemble of stone houses, cobblestones, flower pots, and the silhouette of the charterhouse.

★★★ Real Cartuja de Valldemossa

The former Carthusian monastery (14th century) is the main reason for visiting — not because of the architecture alone, but because of its most famous winter guests: In the winter of 1838/39, the Polish composer Frédéric Chopin and the French writer George Sand spent three months here. Chopin composed parts of his Préludes and the Ballade No. 2 in his monastery cell — a Pleyel piano from the time is on display. George Sand wrote her (rather spiteful) book "A Winter in Mallorca" about the stay.

The visit includes: the monks' cells (with Chopin's piano and Sand memorabilia), the cloister, the pharmacy (17th century, with original medicine jars), the Palace of King Sancho, and the church with frescoes.

Admission: 9.50 € (adults), children 4 €. April–Sept.: Mon–Sat 10 am–6 pm. Oct.–March: Mon–Sat 9:30 am–3 pm.

Strolling through the Village

Valldemossa's alleys are a poem: Every house decorates its entrance with flower pots and a ceramic tile of Saint Catalina Tomàs — Mallorca's only saint, born here in 1531. The alleys around the monastery church are the most beautiful, especially the Carrer de la Rectoria and the Carrer de la Rosa.

Coca de Patata

Valldemossa has its own specialty: the Coca de Patata — a soft, slightly sweet potato pastry that is only available here. Traditionally, it is enjoyed with a glass of almond milk. The best bakeries: Ca'n Molinas (Carrer de la Blanquerna, 15) and Panadería Valldemossa. Definitely try it — it sounds strange, but tastes heavenly.

Deià (pronounced: "Dejá") is Mallorca's artist village — a tiny place (around 700 inhabitants) perched like an eagle's nest on a steep slope above the sea. Since the 1920s, Deià has attracted artists, writers, and dropouts, and to this day it has retained a special aura: expensive, elitist, but irresistibly beautiful.

Robert Graves & the Artist Colony

The British poet and novelist Robert Graves ("I, Claudius") lived in Deià from 1929 until his death in 1985 — with a break during the Civil War and World War II. His house Ca N'Alluny is now a museum, preserved almost unchanged: desk, library, garden with mountain views. His grave is in the cemetery of the village church — simple, with a plain inscription.

Ca N'Alluny: Mon–Fri 10 am–5 pm (April–Oct.), Mon–Fri 9 am–2 pm (Nov.–March). Admission 7 €.

In Graves' footsteps came many others: Anaïs Nin, Ava Gardner, Peter Ustinov, and more recently Andrew Lloyd Webber and actor Michael Douglas (who owns an estate near Valldemossa). Deià became synonymous with creative exile in the Mediterranean.

★★★ Cala Deià

The Bay of Deià is one of the most beautiful bathing spots in Mallorca — and one of the most challenging: A steep, rocky path (20 min. walk from the village, no strollers possible!) leads down to a small pebble bay framed by cliffs. The water is crystal clear, the atmosphere magical. Two fish restaurants (Ca's Patró March, Sa Caleta) right on the bay serve fresh fish with sea views — make a reservation! On summer weekends, the bay is crowded.

Dining & Accommodation

Deià is expensive — let that be clear. The legendary Hotel La Residencia (Belmond Group) is one of the most exclusive establishments in Mallorca (from 500 €/night). But even the simpler options range from 120–200 €/night. Restaurants:

• Es Racó d'es Teix: 1 Michelin star, Mallorcan-Mediterranean, menu from 80 €. Terrace with valley views.
• Sa Vinya: Tapas and wine, much cheaper (15–25 €), on the main street.
• Ca's Patró March: Fish restaurant directly at Cala Deià. Legendary. Reservation! 25–40 €.

Sóller is the unofficial capital of the Tramuntana — a lively town (13,000 inhabitants) in a fertile valley, surrounded by orange groves and mountains over 1,000 meters high. While Valldemossa and Deià mainly look beautiful, Sóller actually has urban life: markets, shops, schools, an active local scene.

★★★ The Historic Train (Tren de Sóller)

The highlight of the journey IS the journey: Since 1912, a historic wooden carriage train has connected Palma with Sóller — through the Tramuntana, over a viaduct, through 13 tunnels. The one-hour ride is a time travel and one of the most beautiful railway routes in Europe.

Departure Palma (Estació Intermodal, Plaça d'Espanya): daily 10:10, 10:50, 12:15, 13:30, 15:10 (times vary seasonally). One-way: 25 €, round trip: 32 €. TIP: Sit on the left for the best views!

Plaça de la Constitució

The central square of Sóller is a wonderful ensemble: the neo-Gothic parish church Sant Bartomeu (facade by Joan Rubió, a Gaudí student), the Banco de Sóller (also Modernisme style) and around it cafés with terrace seating under plane trees. A popular weekly market takes place here on Saturdays.

The Tram to Port de Sóller

Another historic means of transport: The Tranvía de Sóller has been rattling along 5 km of tracks through the orange groves from the town center down to the harbor of Port de Sóller since 1913. The open wooden cars are an experience in themselves.

Every 30 min. from Plaça de Sóller. One-way: 10 €. Duration: 20 min.

Port de Sóller

The natural harbor town in an almost circular bay is the perfect counterpart to the mountain town above: a small sandy beach, the harbor promenade with restaurants and cafés, boat tours along the coast (to Sa Calobra!). Port de Sóller is more touristy than Sóller itself, but it has its charm, especially in the evening when the day-trippers are gone and the lights reflect in the harbor basin.

Orange Groves & Ice Cream

The Sóller valley is famous for its oranges — the "Canoneta" and "Navel" varieties have been cultivated since the 19th century and once made Sóller wealthy. In spring, the whole valley smells of orange blossoms. Today, the oranges are processed into marmalade, liqueur, juice, and the famous orange ice cream. The best ice cream: Fet a Sóller (several locations in town and at the harbor).

Fornalutx officially holds the title of "Spain's most beautiful village" — and at first glance, you understand why. The tiny mountain village (around 700 inhabitants) is located 3 km above Sóller and is an almost perfect ensemble of honey-colored stone houses, red tiled roofs, blooming bougainvillea vines, and the dramatic backdrop of Puig Major.

Fornalutx is not a place for sights in the classic sense — it IS the sight. You stroll through the steep, winding alleys (sturdy footwear recommended, the cobblestones are slippery!), past stone steps, through arches, over small squares with fountains. The Plaça d'Espanya is the center: a church, a few cafés, a fountain, mountains all around.

What there is: Three to four restaurants (the Ca'n Antuna offers Mallorcan cuisine with a panoramic terrace, €€), a few holiday apartments, a small shop, absolute tranquility. Fornalutx is ideal as a morning or afternoon walk in combination with Sóller — you can reach the village on foot in about 45 minutes on a hiking trail through the orange groves (the path is signposted, moderate incline).

Honestly: In high summer (July/August), tour buses stream through the village, and the charm suffers. In the off-season or early morning, Fornalutx, on the other hand, has something almost unreal — as if time has stood still.

The Serra de Tramuntana is Mallorca's number one hiking paradise — hundreds of kilometers of marked trails through a spectacular mountain landscape. From leisurely village walks to challenging summit tours, everything is included. Here is an overview of the top routes:

★★★ GR 221 — Ruta de Pedra en Sec (Dry Stone Route)

Mallorca's great long-distance hiking trail traverses the entire Tramuntana from Port d'Andratx in the southwest to Pollença in the northeast. The complete route is about 150 km long and divided into 8 stages, with Refugis (mountain huts) as overnight accommodations. Not all stages are equally well marked — the middle sections (Esporles → Deià → Sóller → Lluc) are the best signposted.

Total: 150 km, 8 stages, 6–8 days. Difficulty: medium to hard. Refugis: 15–25 €/night (book online in advance via ibanat.caib.es!). Best time: Oct.–May.

★★★ Torrent de Pareis

The most spectacular gorge in Mallorca — a 3 km long canyon with rock walls up to 200 meters high, ending in the bay of Sa Calobra. The crossing is an unforgettable experience, but NOT a walk: You climb over boulders, squeeze through narrow passages, and have to use your hands in some sections.

Start: Escorca (parking lot on the MA-10). Duration: 4–5 hours. Distance: 6.5 km. Difficulty: HARD. Elevation difference: 600 m descent.

★★★ Puig de Massanella (1,365 m)

The highest climbable peak in Mallorca (the Puig Major is a military restricted area). The view from the summit is overwhelming: on clear days, you can see Menorca! The standard route starts at Lluc.

Start: Lluc Monastery (parking lot). Duration: 5–6 hours (round trip). Distance: 14 km. Difficulty: medium-hard. Elevation difference: 750 m.

★★ Barranc de Biniaraix

One of the most beautiful and accessible hikes in the Tramuntana. The paved pilgrimage path (an old cobblestone path!) leads through the gorge of Biniaraix with 2,000 stone steps, terraced olive groves, and spectacular mountain panoramas. Start in the village of Biniaraix above Sóller.

Start: Biniaraix (village square). Duration: 3–4 hours (circular route). Distance: 8 km. Difficulty: medium. Elevation difference: 500 m.

★★ Boquer Valley (near Pollença)

An easy, short hike, ideal for families and beginners. Through a dry valley with free-roaming goats to the hidden Cala Boquer (pebble beach, crystal clear water). Start at the end of the road behind the Pine Walk in Port de Pollença.

Start: Port de Pollença (end of Bóquer Street). Duration: 1.5–2 hours (round trip). Distance: 5 km. Difficulty: easy-medium. Elevation difference: 100 m.

★ Puig de Maria (near Pollença)

Short, steep ascent to the monastery on the summit (320 m) with a 360° panorama over the bay of Pollença, Alcúdia, and the Tramuntana. The monastery offers simple accommodation (Refugi) and a small restaurant.

Start: Pollença (signposted from the town center). Duration: 1 hour (ascent). Distance: 3 km (one way). Difficulty: medium (steep but short). Elevation difference: 250 m.

The Tramuntana is dotted with monasteries on mountain peaks and viewpoints (Miradors) that take your breath away. Three of the best:

★★★ Lluc Monastery (Santuari de Lluc)

Mallorca's most important pilgrimage site, hidden in a mountain valley at an altitude of 525 m. Since the 13th century, Mallorcans have been pilgrimaging here to the "Black Madonna" (La Moreneta), a dark stone figure of the Virgin Mary. The monastery is an extensive complex with a basilica (baroque, impressive altar), a museum (archaeological finds, religious art), a botanical garden with endemic plants, and a restaurant.

Especially atmospheric: The boys' choir "Els Blauets" (the "Blues," named after the color of their robes) sings daily except Saturdays at 11:15 am in the basilica — one of the oldest boys' choirs in Europe, since the 15th century.

Lluc also offers simple accommodation in former monks' cells (from 35 €/night for a double room) — spartan, but quiet and atmospheric.

Monastery admission: free. Museum: 4 €. Parking available. Restaurant with Mallorcan cuisine (€). Bus 330 from Inca.

★★★ Road to Sa Calobra (MA-2141)

The most famous road in Mallorca: 12 km, 800 meters of elevation, 26 hairpin bends — including the legendary "Tie Knot" (Nus de sa Corbata), a 270° loop where the road winds under itself. The drive is an experience in itself — not only for drivers but also for the hundreds of road cyclists who tackle the climb here daily.

At the bottom awaits the small bay of Sa Calobra and a 200 m long tunnel leading to the mouth of the Torrent de Pareis — one of the most dramatic coastal landscapes in Mallorca.

★★ Mirador de ses Barques

The best viewpoint over Port de Sóller: From a terrace at an altitude of 400 m, you look down on the crescent-shaped bay, the harbor, and the open sea. The restaurant of the same name (€€) serves Pa amb Oli (bread with olive oil and tomatoes), Paella, and Mallorcan classics with this incredible panorama. Located on the MA-10 between Sóller and Lluc Monastery.

Coordinates: 39.7918, 2.7710. Parking directly on the road. Restaurant open daily.

★★ Mirador Ricardo Roca

On the MA-10 between Andratx and Estellencs, on the southwestern side of the Tramuntana. The viewpoint (with restaurant/bar) offers a breathtaking view down the steep coast and of the island Sa Dragonera on the horizon. Especially spectacular at sunset — the rocks glow golden and red.

Coordinates: 39.6448, 2.4536. Bar/restaurant with terrace, affordable prices (coffee, beer, snacks).

★ Mirador de ses Ànimes (Torre del Verger)

A 16th-century watchtower on a cliff near Banyalbufar — one of the most photographed spots in Mallorca. From here, you overlook the entire west coast with its terraced vineyards reaching down to the sea. The tower itself is accessible (free of charge).

Coordinates: 39.6835, 2.5090. Small parking bay directly on the MA-10.

The cuisine of the Tramuntana is mountain cuisine in the best sense — hearty, seasonal, rooted. Up here, people eat differently than on the coast: instead of fish and seafood, lamb, pork, olive oil, almonds, oranges, and wild herbs are the focus. Portions are generous, and the recipes are often centuries old.

Typical Dishes

• Frito Mallorquín: Offal (liver, lung) with potatoes, peppers, and fennel fried in olive oil. Sounds unusual, tastes fantastic — the island's national dish.
• Tumbet: Layered vegetable casserole of potatoes, eggplant, peppers, and tomato sauce. Vegetarian and delicious.
• Lomo con Col: Pork loin wrapped in cabbage leaves — a winter comfort food.
• Sopes Mallorquines: Not a soup, but a thick vegetable stew with thin slices of bread that soak up the liquid. Rustic and filling.
• Pa amb Oli: Mallorca's national bread — rustic bread rubbed with tomato and drizzled with the best olive oil. Served with Serrano ham, cheese, or Sobrassada.
• Cordero al horno: Lamb slowly roasted in a wood oven — the specialty of the mountain villages.

Olive Oil from the Tramuntana

The olive oil of the Serra de Tramuntana has a protected designation of origin (D.O. Oli de Mallorca) and is among the best in Spain. The gnarled olive trees, some 1,000 years old, shape the landscape. In Sóller, Fornalutx, and Valldemossa, you can do olive oil tastings and buy bottles directly from the producer (from 8 € for 500 ml).

Restaurant Recommendations

€ Budget

Sa Cova · Sóller, Plaça de la Constitució — Right on the main square, down-to-earth Mallorcan cuisine, Pa amb Oli in many variations. Perfect after the train ride. 8–15 €.

Restaurant Lluc · Lluc Monastery — Surprisingly good restaurant in the monastery complex. Mallorcan home cooking, Menú del día for 13 €. Large terrace.

€€ Mid-range

Ca'n Antuna · Fornalutx, Carrer Arbona Colom, 8 — Mallorcan mountain cuisine with a panoramic terrace over the valley. Lamb, Tumbet, homemade desserts. 18–28 €.

Es Turo · Deià, Carretera de Valldemossa — Local hangout off the tourist paths. Grilled meat, local vegetables, good value for money for Deià standards. 15–25 €.

Bens d'Avall · Sóller/Deià (on the MA-10) — Spectacular location on a cliff above the sea. Mediterranean cuisine, fish, and meat. Reservation required. 25–40 €.

€€€ High-end

Es Racó d'es Teix · Deià, Carrer de Sa Vinya Vella, 6 — 1 Michelin star. The German-born chef Josef Sauerschell interprets Mallorcan traditional recipes at star level. Tasting menu from 80 €. Terrace with views over the Tramuntana.

Es Fum · Costa d'en Blanes (on the edge of the Tramuntana) — 1 Michelin star at the St. Regis Mardavall Resort. Mediterranean-Asian fusion, sea view. Menu from 120 €.

Orange Products from Sóller

The oranges of Sóller are not just for eating — they are processed into a whole range of products:

• Zumo de naranja: Freshly squeezed orange juice in every café (from 3 €)
• Mermelada de naranja: Orange marmalade (ideal as a souvenir, from 4 €)
• Àngel d'Or: Orange liqueur from Sóller, sweet and intense (from 10 € per bottle)
• Orange ice cream: At Fet a Sóller — the best ice cream in the valley
• Orange blossom honey: From the beehives between the groves