The South

The south of Mallorca is the least developed coastal region of the island — and that's exactly what makes it so special. While resorts line the east and west coasts, endless natural beaches, flat salt lagoons, and a hinterland of dry steppes and pine forests reminiscent of North Africa dominate here.

The center of the region is the municipality of Ses Salines with its eponymous salt pans, which have been producing salt since Roman times. Right next to it stretches the Es Trenc, Mallorca's most famous natural beach: over 3 kilometers of white sand, turquoise water, no hotel fortresses. In the small port town of Colònia de Sant Jordi, boats depart for the Cabrera Archipelago — a national park with crystal-clear water that can only be visited with permission.

In contrast, the north of the region features the Playa de Palma, a 6-kilometer-long beach promenade stretching from the elegant old town of Palma to the notorious S'Arenal. Here, the tourist heart of Mallorca beats — Ballermann included. But even here, there are quieter sections worth visiting.

In the southwest, hidden bays like Cala Pi surprise with dramatic cliffs and turquoise water, which are not overcrowded even in high summer. The south is ideal for those who prefer natural beaches, bird watching, and maritime adventures to an organized resort life.

Plan at least 3–4 days for the south. A rental car is essential here — the best beaches and bays are hardly accessible by bus. The distances are manageable: Palma–Es Trenc about 50 minutes, Palma–Colònia de Sant Jordi about 55 minutes.

Es Trenc is Mallorca's most famous natural beach — and one of the most beautiful in the entire Mediterranean. Over 3 kilometers of fine, white sand stretch between flat dunes and pine forests, behind which lies the crystal-clear, gently sloping water in turquoise and emerald tones. You might think you've landed in the Caribbean — only the pines at the edge reveal that you're still in Europe.

The beach is undeveloped and under nature protection. No hotels, no concrete blocks, no beach promenade. At the eastern end, there are two chiringuitos (beach bars) serving drinks, snacks, and paella — more infrastructure is not needed. Sun loungers cost around 8–12 € each, umbrellas similarly. Those who bring their own mat can lie for free.

At the western end of the beach — towards Ses Covetes — there is a traditional nudist section that has been tolerated for decades. It is usually quieter here than on the main beach. The transition is seamless, and no one takes offense.

The water is exceptionally clear and shallow — perfect for children and snorkelers. The sandy bottom slopes down slowly, and after 50 meters, you are often still waist-deep. On windy days (especially with a south wind), waves and currents can occur.

The parking situation is the biggest problem. There are three official access points: from Ses Covetes (west), from the parking lot on the country road (middle), and from Colònia de Sant Jordi (east, about a 25-minute walk). The parking lot on the country road (Ma-6040) holds about 500 cars and costs a 7 € daily fee. In July and August, it is full by 10:30 a.m. From Ses Covetes, there is a small municipal parking lot (free, but only about 80 spaces) and resident parking zones — towing is strictly enforced here.

The best alternative: Come early (before 9:30 a.m.) or after 4 p.m., when the first bathers leave. Walk from Colònia de Sant Jordi (25 minutes along the coast, scenically beautiful) or rent a bike (rental in Campos and Colònia, about 10 €/day).

The Salines de Llevant (salt pans of Ses Salines) are one of the oldest still active salt production areas in the Mediterranean. Sea salt has been harvested here since Roman times — the pink salt pans, stretching over 150 hectares between the town of Ses Salines and the coast, are a fascinating sight. In spring and autumn, flamingos, stilts, and egrets rest here on their way between Africa and Northern Europe. The best time for observation is in the morning between 7 and 9 a.m., when the birds are active and the light is perfect.

The Flor de Sal d'Es Trenc — the premium sea salt from these salt pans — is internationally known and used in gourmet kitchens worldwide. In the small salt shop on the outskirts of Ses Salines (Calle Marjals), you can buy various types: natural, with hibiscus, with olives, with Mediterranean herbs. Prices: 4–8 € per tin. A perfect souvenir.

Colònia de Sant Jordi is located 5 kilometers south and is a charming, unpretentious fishing village that has retained its relaxed character. The small harbor with its colorful llaüts (Mallorcan fishing boats) is the heart of the village. Here, the excursion boats to the Cabrera Archipelago depart — the most important tourist attraction in the region.

The village has its own beach (Platja des Port), which is smaller and more sheltered than Es Trenc, but closer to restaurants and cafes. At the eastern end of the village lies the Platja d'es Dolç, a quieter sandy beach with a view of the offshore islands.

Around the harbor, there are excellent fish restaurants. Colònia de Sant Jordi has developed into a small culinary hotspot in recent years — with less hype and lower prices than Port d'Andratx or Deià. There is also a small salt museum (Centro de Interpretación de las Salinas) on the outskirts, documenting the 2,000-year history of salt production.

The weekly market takes place on Wednesdays (8–13 hrs) and is much more authentic than the tourist markets in Artà or Santanyí. Locals shop here: fresh vegetables, sobrassada, local cheese, almonds.

The Cabrera Archipelago is Mallorca's best-kept natural jewel — and one of Spain's most strictly protected national parks. The group of islands (19 small islands and rocks) lies 14 kilometers south of Colònia de Sant Jordi and is only accessible by authorized boat trips. Since 1991, the entire area — including the surrounding waters — has been under strict protection. No hotels, no development, no private boats without permission.

The result: an underwater paradise unparalleled in the western Mediterranean. The water is so clear that you can see the bottom from the boat at a depth of 20 meters. Posidonia seagrass meadows, schools of barracudas, sea turtles (if you're lucky), moray eels, groupers — the biodiversity is breathtaking. Snorkeling in the Cova Blava (Blue Grotto) is the highlight: a sea cave where the light bathes the entire space in an unreal cobalt blue.

On the main island stands a 14th-century castle, built as a watchtower against pirates. The 20-minute climb is rewarded with a 360° panorama over the entire archipelago. On land, there is a small exhibition on natural history, a hiking trail to the lighthouse (about 1 hour), and picnic areas.

The standard tour lasts a whole day: Departure from Colònia de Sant Jordi at 9:30 a.m., return around 5:00 p.m. The crossing takes about 45 minutes. The price (approx. 45–55 € adults, 25–30 € children) includes the boat trip, a snorkeling stop, and a visit to the Blue Grotto. On the island, you have about 3–4 hours of free time for hiking, swimming, or picnicking.

There are also speedboat tours (approx. 90 €, 3 hours) for those with less time, as well as diving excursions for certified divers (approx. 80–120 € including equipment). The dive spots in the national park are among the best in the Mediterranean — huge groupers, eagle rays, and lobsters in underwater canyons.

Important: The number of visitors is limited to about 200–300 people per day. During peak season (July/August), boats are often fully booked weeks in advance. Book directly with Excursions a Cabrera (excursionsacabrera.es) or Marcabrera (marcabrera.com).

The Playa de Palma is Mallorca's longest continuous city beach: 6 kilometers of fine sand from Can Pastilla in the west to S'Arenal in the east, numbered into 15 Balnearios (beach sections). It is the most visited beach on the island — and one of the most polarizing places in the entire Mediterranean.

Yes, here lies the Ballermann. The Balnearios 5 to 7 at the eastern end (S'Arenal) are the zone everyone knows: Bierkönig, Megapark, Schinkenstraße. German Schlager music, sangria buckets, party excesses. The headlines write themselves. Those looking for this will find it here in concentrated form — those who want to avoid it should steer clear of this section.

But the Playa de Palma is much more than the Ballermann. This is often forgotten. The western sections around Can Pastilla and Ciudad Jardín (Balnearios 1–3) are surprisingly quiet, well-maintained, and family-friendly. Here, locals stroll, families spread out their blankets, and there are decent restaurants instead of cheap pubs. The city of Palma has massively invested in the upgrading of the beach promenade in recent years: new bike paths, green spaces, better lighting.

The beach itself is — regardless of the section — excellent: fine, light sand, gently sloping water, lifeguards, barrier-free access, showers, toilets. The infrastructure is first-class. Sun loungers cost about 8–10 € each, umbrellas similarly.

The bus connection is practical: Line 25 (EMT Palma) runs every 10–15 minutes from Playa de Palma to the center of Palma (about 20 minutes, 2 €). The airport is also only 5 minutes away by car — perfect for the last beach day before departure.

The Balnearios 8–10 (middle) offer a good compromise: lively but not overcrowded, some nice beach bars, and the wide bike path on the promenade invites you to cycle. Bike rental is available at several locations (about 8–12 €/day).

Cala Pi is one of the most dramatic bays in Mallorca — and a hidden gem that hasn't yet made it into every travel guide. A deep, fjord-like bay cuts into the land between 30-meter-high vertical limestone cliffs. Below: a narrow sandy beach, above it an old watchtower ruin (Torre de Cala Pi, 17th century), surrounded by nothing but nature. Access is via a steep stone staircase (147 steps) carved into the rock — breathtaking, but not suitable for those with mobility issues or small children without supervision.

The water in the bay is so clear that you can see every stone on the bottom. Since the bay is protected to the south, the sea usually remains calm — ideal for snorkeling along the rock walls where fish seek shelter in the underwater caves. The beach is small (about 50 meters wide), so it gets quite crowded in high summer. Best to come in the morning or after 4 p.m.

Above the bay lies the eponymous Urbanización Cala Pi, a quiet holiday home settlement with a few restaurants and a small supermarket. There are also free parking spaces here (about a 5-minute walk to the stair descent).

Other Bays in the Southwest

Cala Llombards is a 20-minute drive east and is also a natural gem: a small sandy bay between golden rock walls, reminiscent of a miniature version of the Algarve. Access is easier than at Cala Pi (no steep descent). Park on the roadside above, about a 5-minute walk. No infrastructure on the beach — bring drinks and snacks.

Caló des Moro — the Instagram-famous neighboring bay of Cala Llombards — is a 10-minute walk south and offers turquoise water between dramatic rocks. However: Since the bay went viral, it is hopelessly overcrowded in summer (capacity: about 150 people). Come before 9 a.m. or not at all.

Cala Beltrán and Cala Marmols are the true hidden gems: both only accessible on foot (30 or 90 minutes hike from the nearest road), but guaranteed deserted. Cala Marmols is a dream — a 40-meter-wide sandy beach, framed by cliffs, not a soul in sight. But: be sure to bring enough water and sun protection, there is no infrastructure, and the way back is strenuous.

Colònia de Sant Jordi — Fish at its Finest

La Sal · Carrer Gabriel Roca, Colònia de Sant Jordi
Located directly at the harbor, with a view of the fishing boats. Fresh fish of the day, excellent paella (min. 2 people, approx. 18€/person), excellent gambas al ajillo. The terrace is a dream in the evening at sunset. Reservation recommended in summer.
15–30€ · Daily 12–23 hrs · ★★

Port Blau · Puerto de Colònia de Sant Jordi
Unpretentious harbor restaurant with the freshest seafood in the region. The fish soup (Caldereta de peix) is legendary. Try the local white wine from Binissalem with it. Simple ambiance, great quality.
12–25€ · Tue–Sun 12–22 hrs · ★★

Sal de Cocó · Carrer Centre 12, Ses Salines
One of the best restaurants in the entire south. Creative Mallorcan cuisine with local products: lamb from the hinterland, fish from Colònia, vegetables from the surrounding fincas. Tasting menu approx. 55€. Modern and stylish interior, rooftop terrace with village view.
25–55€ · Wed–Mon 19–23 hrs · ★★★ · Reservation required!

At Es Trenc — Beach Cuisine

Es Trenc Restaurant (Chiringuito at the east end)
The better-known of the two beach chiringuitos. Paella, grilled fish, sangria, mojitos. The quality is surprisingly good for a beach kiosk. Prices correspond to the location: 12–20€ for a main course. Perfect for a lunch with a sea view and feet in the sand.
12–20€ · Daily 10–18 hrs (May–October)

Sa Ràpita Beach Club · Platja de Sa Ràpita
At the neighboring beach of Sa Ràpita, 10 minutes by car west of Es Trenc. Much more relaxed, less crowded, and with a nice beach club serving solid Mediterranean cuisine. Cocktails at sunset are better here than at any other beach section on the south coast.
10–22€ · Daily 10–sunset (May–Oct)

S'Arenal & Playa de Palma — Beyond the Tourist Traps

Yes, you can eat well in S'Arenal — if you know where. The main streets directly at Ballermann are full of tourist traps with laminated menus in five languages. Instead:

Ca'n Torrat · Carrer Trasimè 12, S'Arenal
Two streets behind the beach promenade: Mallorcan grill restaurant, popular with locals. Meat and fish on the open charcoal grill. No frills, large portions, fair prices. Order tumbet (Mallorcan vegetable casserole) as a side dish.
10–20€ · Tue–Sun 12–23 hrs

Es Molí de'n Bou · Carrer Almirante Moreno 6, Sa Coma (near S'Illot)
A bit further east, but worth mentioning: Mallorca's only Michelin-starred restaurant outside Palma (as of 2025). Creative island cuisine at the highest level, tasting menu from approx. 85€. For special occasions.
65–120€ · Wed–Sun 19:30–22:30 hrs · ★★★ · Reservation well in advance!