Durbar Square & Old Town★★★
★★★ Kathmandu Durbar Square (UNESCO World Heritage)
The Durbar Square (Palace Square) was the political and religious center of the Kingdom of Kathmandu for centuries. The complex includes the old Hanuman Dhoka Palace, over 50 temples, and the living goddess Kumari, who resides in a splendid house on the square.
The 2015 earthquake destroyed or severely damaged several temples — including the Kasthamandap, the Maju Deval, and the Trailokya Mohan Narayan. Reconstruction is ongoing, partly supported by international organizations like UNESCO and German development cooperation. Despite the damage, the atmosphere remains unique: Sadhu ascetics, vegetable vendors, school children, and tourists share the square with stray dogs and occasional cows.
The square is divided into two main areas: the outer Durbar Square with the Kasthamandap and the Kumari Chowk, and the inner Durbar Square around the Hanuman Dhoka Palace with the Taleju Temple, the Jagannath Temple, and the nine-story Basantapur Tower, from whose roof you have a fantastic panorama over the old town.
Entry: 1,000 NPR (approx. 6.50€) for foreigners, valid for the day. Best time to visit: early morning (7:00–8:00), when the first vendors set up and the light falls golden over the square, or at sunset on the steps of the Maju-Deval Temple.
★★★ Kumari Chowk (House of the Living Goddess)
Perhaps the most fascinating cultural phenomenon in Nepal: The Kumari is a young girl from the Newar community (specifically: from the Shakya caste of gold and silversmiths), revered as the incarnation of the goddess Taleju. She is selected according to strict criteria: flawless skin without scars or birthmarks, perfect teeth, the fearlessness of a goddess (she must not cry during a ritual test when buffalo heads and masked dancers try to scare her), and a horoscope that harmonizes with that of the king — today the president.
The Kumari lives in the Kumari Chowk, a three-story courtyard building from the 18th century with spectacular carved wooden balconies. She leaves the house only for certain religious occasions, carried on a golden palanquin. Her feet must not touch the ground. Even the king had to kneel before her and receive her blessing.
If you're lucky, she may briefly appear at the window of the courtyard — photography is strictly forbidden. Her gaze is considered a blessing. The Kumari serves until puberty (first menstruation), after which she returns to normal life. Former Kumaris often report difficulties in returning — a controversy emotionally discussed in Nepal.
★★★ Kasthamandap
The temple that gave Kathmandu its name! Legend has it that it was built from the wood of a single sal tree — probably in the 7th century, making it one of the oldest wooden structures in South Asia. The three stories once served as a rest house (Sattal) for pilgrims on the trade route between India and Tibet.
The earthquake on April 25, 2015, completely destroyed the Kasthamandap — only a pile of rubble remained. However, the archaeological investigation of the ruins revealed a sensation: Under the foundation, researchers found coins from the 7th century, confirming the temple's dating. The reconstruction using traditional methods — without nails, only with wooden joints — was completed in 2024. The new Kasthamandap is a symbol of Nepali resilience and craftsmanship.
★★★ Hanuman Dhoka Palace
The former royal palace extends over ten courtyards and now houses the Tribhuvan Museum (life and possessions of King Tribhuvan, who overthrew the Rana dictatorship in 1951) and the Mahendra Museum. The palace was expanded in the 17th century by King Pratap Malla, who also erected the famous Hanuman (monkey god) at the entrance gate — a red, mustard oil paste-smeared stone figure under an umbrella, meant to protect the palace.
Particularly noteworthy: the Nasal Chowk (courtyard where the coronation of Nepali kings took place), the Basantapur Tower (9 stories, spectacular view), and the erotic wood carvings on the temple struts, which according to Hindu belief are meant to deter the lightning god Indra.
Hanuman Dhoka Museum: 250 NPR extra. Tue–Sat 10:30–16:00, Sun until 14:00. Closed on Mondays.
★★ Taleju Temple
The tallest temple of Durbar Square (36 m) — dedicated to the guardian goddess of the Malla kings. Only Hindus are allowed inside, and only once a year during the Dashain festival, when the gates are opened to all and thousands queue in long lines. Impressive from the outside nonetheless: The gilded roof peak and massive brick walls testify to the power of the Malla dynasty.
★★ Asan Tol & Indra Chowk
From Durbar Square, the historic trade alleys lead north: Asan Tol is Kathmandu's oldest and busiest marketplace — a frenzy of spices, vegetables, flower garlands, and crowds. Here, locals buy their daily needs: piles of turmeric, chili, ginger, coriander, fresh fruit, and religious offerings. The tiny Annapurna Temple in the midst of the hustle and bustle is one of the most visited in all of Kathmandu — merchants bring their first earnings here as offerings in the morning.
Indra Chowk houses the Akash Bhairav Temple (the "Sky Bhairav," a fearsome manifestation of Shiva) and is famous for its pearl, pashmina, and wool traders. Here also begins the Makhan Tol, the historic trade route that once connected the Silk Road with India.
★★ Jagannath Temple
The Jagannath Temple at Durbar Square is famous for its erotic wood carvings on the roof struts — explicit depictions of sexual scenes that regularly surprise visitors. These carvings are found on many Nepali temples and have various interpretations: They are meant to deter the chaste lightning god Indra (who might otherwise strike the temple with lightning), symbolize the union of opposites, or simply serve as fertility symbols.
★ Kumari Sighting: When and How?
The Kumari does not appear on a schedule, but the best chances are around 16:00, when she sometimes briefly appears at the carved window of the courtyard. During the Indra Jatra Festival (September), she is paraded through the streets of Kathmandu on a magnificent chariot — the only time the public can see her up close.
