Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple)

★★★ Swayambhunath — The Monkey Temple

On a hill west of Kathmandu sits one of Nepal's oldest and holiest Buddhist sites. The golden stupa with the all-seeing Buddha eyes gazes in all four directions — the most photographed motif in the country. For over 2,000 years, Swayambhunath has been a pilgrimage site, and the 365 steep stone steps (one for each day of the year) are populated by hundreds of cheeky rhesus monkeys, giving the temple its nickname.

History & Spiritual Significance

Swayambhunath is possibly the oldest Buddhist site in Nepal. Legend has it that the Kathmandu Valley was once a vast lake. The Bodhisattva Manjushri saw a wondrous lotus flower glowing on the lake and split the mountains at the southern edge of the valley with his sword to let the water flow out. Where the lotus flower had been, the hill of Swayambhunath rose — "Svayambhu" means "the self-existent." Archaeological finds date the site to the 5th century AD, although the legend makes it much older.

The stupa itself is a cosmic diagram: The white dome symbolizes the earth, the 13 golden rings above it the 13 steps to enlightenment, the four Buddha eyes omniscience, and the "nose symbol" between the eyes is the Nepali sign for the number one — the unity of all existence.

What to See

• Main Stupa: The massive white dome with the golden tower, colorful prayer flags, and all-seeing eyes. Circumambulate it three times clockwise, spinning the prayer wheels and murmuring "Om Mani Padme Hum"
• Vajra (Thunderbolt): At the foot of the stupa stands a massive bronze Vajra — the tantric Buddhist symbol of diamond imperishability and spiritual power
• Harati Temple (Ajima): A small but well-visited Hindu temple for the goddess of smallpox and childhood diseases — a perfect example of Nepal's Hindu-Buddhist symbiosis. Hindu mothers bring their sick children here
• Shantipur: A mysterious underground temple where, according to legend, a meditation master has been in trance for 1,500 years. The door is locked and only opened in extreme times of need
• Dewa Dharma Monastery: On the western edge of the hill plateau, with daily meditation sessions open to visitors
• Museum: A small museum on the western edge shows Buddhist sculptures, manuscripts, and artifacts from the Kathmandu Valley

The Monkeys

The hundreds of rhesus monkeys that populate the hill are part of the religious tradition: They are considered sacred and are fed by pilgrims. But beware: They are aggressive, lightning-fast, and absolutely unscrupulous. They snatch glasses off faces, steal water bottles, open backpacks, and snatch phones. Hide all edibles, hold your phone tight, and make no sudden movements. Never show your teeth (interpreted as a threat gesture).

Entry: 200 NPR (approx. 1.30€). Accessible all day. Best early morning (6:00–7:00, when monks say their morning prayers and the valley is shrouded in mist) or at sunset (17:30–18:30, when the city glows in golden light). The west side of the hill has a less steep access via a driveway — good for travelers who shy away from the 365 steps.