Cascais

Cascais (pronounced: Kash-KAISH) is the elegant seaside resort at the mouth of the Tagus — 30 minutes west of Lisbon and a different world. What was once a sleepy fishing village was chosen as the summer residence of the Portuguese King Luís I in 1870 and developed into an exclusive resort for Europe's aristocracy. During World War II, Cascais was a refuge for displaced royal families and spies — Ian Fleming is said to have been inspired to create James Bond here.

Today, Cascais is a perfect blend of fishing village and cosmopolitanism. The historic center around the bay is picture-perfect: pastel-colored houses, cobbled streets, a pretty fortress by the water (Cidadela de Cascais, now a luxury hotel), elegant villas, and in between, fishing boats that still set out every morning.

The Boca do Inferno (Hell's Mouth) is a natural rock arch west of the center, where the Atlantic crashes with thunderous force. In storms, fountains shoot through the hole — spectacular and easily reachable on foot (15 min. from the center along the coastal promenade).

The Museu Condes de Castro Guimarães is a fairy-tale castle by the water with a small, fine collection (entrance €4). More interesting is the Casa das Histórias Paula Rego, a museum designed by Pritzker Prize winner Eduardo Souto de Moura, showcasing the works of the great Portuguese painter Paula Rego (entrance €5).

The most beautiful beach is the Praia do Guincho, 8 km west of Cascais — a vast sandy beach considered one of the best wind and kitesurfing spots in Europe. The waves can be massive, swimming is only safe in calm seas. On the beach is the legendary restaurant Bar do Guincho — fresh fish with a sea view.