Mafra — The Megalomania Palace

The Palácio Nacional de Mafra is the largest building in Portugal — and a monument to royal megalomania. What was planned as a modest monastery for 13 monks grew, thanks to the gold flows from Brazil, into a colossal palace-monastery complex with 1,200 rooms, 4,700 doors, 2,500 windows, 156 staircases, and a basilica crowned by two identical bell towers with a total of 114 bells — the largest historical carillon in the world.

King João V. commissioned the construction in 1717 after his wife finally bore him an heir. The vow: to build a monastery. The reality: to build a palace that would overshadow Versailles. At its peak, 45,000 people worked simultaneously on the construction site — more than at the pyramids. Forced labor, desertions, and deaths were commonplace. Nobel laureate José Saramago immortalized this story in his novel "The Memorial" (O Memorial do Convento).

The library is the undisputed highlight: an 88-meter-long hall with a Rococo ceiling and 36,000 leather-bound volumes from the 14th to the 19th century. What makes the library unique: a colony of bats that have lived in the bookshelves for centuries, protecting the books from insect infestation — natural pest control since the 18th century. The library has been part of the UNESCO World Heritage since 2019.

Other highlights: the basilica with its Italian marble and jasper altars, the monks' hospital (sickrooms with a direct view of the altar so the sick could follow the mass), and the hunting grounds Tapada Nacional de Mafra, an 800-hectare walled wildlife park with deer, wild boars, and birds of prey (separate entrance fee: €6, guided tours on jeep safari: €15).

Mafra is located 28 km northwest of Lisbon and is easily accessible by car (35 min.). The bus from Lisbon (Ericeira line from Campo Grande) takes about 50 min. Plan at least 2 hours for the palace, with Tapada half a day.