Djerba & the South

Djerba is the largest island in North Africa (514 km²) and a world of its own. Only connected to the mainland by an ancient causeway (Roman Causeway, 7 km long) and a ferry, a unique mixed culture has developed on the flat island: Arab Muslims, Berbers (Amazigh), and one of the oldest Jewish communities in the world have lived here peacefully for centuries.

The island was already known to the ancient Greeks: Homer possibly describes it as the island of the Lotus-Eaters in the Odyssey — that mythical place where Odysseus' men ate the sweet lotus fruit and forgot everything. Anyone who has lain on Djerba's beaches understands the metaphor.

Djerba offers a perfect mix: 20 km of dream beaches on the northeast coast, the charming capital Houmt Souk with its lively medina, the ancient synagogue La Ghriba, Berber villages, and since 2014 the street art project Djerbahood, which has transformed an entire village into an open-air gallery.

Plan 3–5 days for Djerba: beach days combined with culture and a day trip to the mainland (Matmata, Ksar Ouled Soltane).

★★★ Houmt Souk — Djerba's Lively Capital

The name literally means "market district" — and that's exactly what Houmt Souk is: a single large souk experience. The capital of Djerba (65,000 inhabitants) is the most charming town on the island, with white funduk buildings (former caravanserais), an authentic medina, and a picturesque fishing harbor.

★★★ The Souks

The souks of Houmt Souk are among the most colorful in Tunisia. Unlike in the big cities, the traders here are relaxed and friendly — the typical Djerba calmness. Particularly worth seeing:

• Souk el-Rebaa: The main market. Monday and Thursday are wholesale market days with traders from all over the island. Spices, olives, dates, ceramics, textiles.
• Jewelry market: Djerba is famous for its silver jewelry in Berber style. The intricate bracelets, fibulae, and necklaces are handcrafted according to ancient patterns. The "Khamsa" (Hand of Fatima) as a pendant is the most popular souvenir.
• Spice market: Pyramids of turmeric, Ras el-Hanout, saffron, and harissa. The spice traders mix individual blends on request.

★★ Bordj el-Kebir (Great Fortress)

The imposing 15th-century fortress stands at the harbor and is a reminder of the island's turbulent history. It was built by the Hafsids against the Spanish invasion, later expanded by the Ottomans. The walls are partly made of ancient Roman columns recycled from the ruins of the nearby city of Meninx.

Inside: a small museum on the island's history and a famous (albeit macabre) anecdote — the Tower of Skulls: In 1560, the Ottoman admiral Dragut erected a tower here from the skulls of defeated Spaniards. The tower stood until 1848 when the French buried the remains in the Christian cemetery.

At the harbor of Houmt Souk. 7 TND. Tue–Sun 9:00–16:30.

★★ Fishing Harbor

The small harbor with its colorful fishing boats and the squid hung out to dry is one of the most photogenic places in Djerba. A visit in the morning (6–8 am) is particularly worthwhile: Then the fishermen return and sell their catch directly at the quay. The restaurants at the harbor serve the freshest fish on the island.

★★★ Synagogue La Ghriba

The oldest synagogue in Africa and one of the oldest in the world stands in the village of Erriadh (formerly Hara Sghira) in the heart of Djerba. The Ghriba Synagogue is the spiritual center of a Jewish community that has lived on Djerba for over 2,500 years — according to legend, since the destruction of Solomon's Temple in Jerusalem (586 BC).

The name "La Ghriba" means "The Wonderful" or "The Stranger." The current synagogue dates from the 19th century and impresses with its interior of blue tiles, colorful glass, and carved wood. In the Holy of Holies, one of the oldest Torah scrolls in the world is kept, allegedly from the destroyed temple.

Every year in May, the Ghriba Pilgrimage (Pèlerinage) takes place, attracting thousands of Jews from around the world to Djerba. It is one of the oldest and most significant Jewish pilgrimages and an impressive testament to Tunisia's religious tolerance.

Erriadh, 7 km south of Houmt Souk. Free entry (donations welcome). Sun–Fri 8:00–17:00, Sat closed. Appropriate clothing, security check at the entrance. Photography of the interior with permission.

★★★ Djerbahood (Street Art Village)

Since 2014, Erriadh has transformed into one of the largest street art projects in the world. Over 250 artists from 30 countries have painted the white walls of the village with monumental murals, calligraphic artworks, and surreal installations. The result is a fascinating open-air gallery where Arabic calligraphy meets European expressionism, African patterns meet Japanese manga art.

The art is everywhere: on house walls, garage doors, in abandoned courtyards. A walk through Erriadh takes 1–2 hours and constantly brings new surprises. The residents are proud of "their" open-air museum and are happy to help with orientation.

Erriadh. Freely accessible, around the clock. Best in the afternoon with slanting light for photos.

★★★ The Beaches — Djerba's Trump Card

Djerba has some of the most beautiful beaches in the entire Mediterranean: fine, white to golden sand, shallow, turquoise water, gently sloping seabed — ideal for children and non-swimmers. The main beach zone stretches over 20 km on the northeast coast from the Zone Touristique to Aghir in the south.

The Best Beaches

• Sidi Mahrez: The main beach of the Zone Touristique and the most beautiful public beach. Fine white sand, crystal-clear water, sun loungers, and water sports. A bit busier, but never crowded. The large hotels are directly behind the beach.
• Seguia: West of Sidi Mahrez, a bit quieter. Particularly beautiful sunset. A few beach bars, but less touristy.
• Plage de la Couronne (Ras Rmel): The peninsula in the north is Djerba's hidden gem. Only accessible by boat (from Houmt Souk, 10 TND), it offers untouched sandy beaches, shallow water, and flamingos. A paradise!
• Aghir: In the southeast, quieter and less developed than the Zone Touristique. Good beach for families. Some smaller hotels and guesthouses.
• Plage de Lella Hadhria: Named after a local saint. Wild and unspoiled, ideal for walking. At the western end of the north coast.

Water Sports

The conditions on Djerba are ideal for various water sports:

• Kitesurfing: Djerba is one of the best kitesurfing spots in the Mediterranean. Constant winds (especially in spring and autumn), shallow water, sandy bottom. Several kite schools on the north coast, courses from €60/day.
• Diving: Less spectacular than Tabarka, but good diving spots off the northeast coast. Posidonia seagrass meadows, rock reefs, good visibility.
• Sailing & Boat Tours: From Houmt Souk or the Zone Touristique: Half-day boat tours (30–50 TND), pirate boat rides, fishing tours.

★★ Guellala — The Pottery Village

In the south of Djerba, on a hill with a sea view, lies the oldest pottery village in Tunisia. Guellala has been producing ceramics for over 2,000 years — the tradition dates back to the Punic era. Dozens of workshops line the main street, where potters shape jugs, amphorae, plates, and the typical Djerba oil lamps on the wheel before visitors' eyes.

Particularly worth seeing: the Guellala Heritage Museum (Musée du Patrimoine), which documents the traditions and daily life of the Djerba Berbers — from wedding customs to olive oil production to pottery making. The museum is housed in a traditional Houch (Berber homestead) and offers a panoramic view of the island.

Guellala, 22 km south of Houmt Souk. Museum: 7 TND. Workshops: freely accessible.

★★ Djerba Mosques

Djerba has a unique mosque architecture: The over 300 small white mosques on the island look like miniature fortresses — square, with thick walls, without a minaret (or only a small one). They belong to the Ibadi faith, a distinct Islamic branch practiced only on Djerba, in parts of Algeria, and in Oman. The Ibadis came to Djerba in the 7th century and have shaped the island's culture to this day.

• Mosque Fadhloun: One of the oldest (10th century), with underground rooms that served as hideouts in times of crisis.
• Mosque of Mahboubine: Photogenic white cube shape amidst olive groves — a typical Djerba motif.

Meninx — Forgotten Roman City

At the southeastern tip of Djerba lie the barely excavated ruins of Meninx, the ancient capital of the island. Under the sand lies a complete Roman city with a forum, baths, and villas. What has been uncovered so far: mosaic fragments, column remains, and an ancient harbor. For archaeology fans, a fascinating place, even if there is little to "see" — the imagination must work.

★★★ Matmata — Star Wars on Earth

Matmata is one of the most extraordinary settlements in the world. For centuries, the Berbers have not built their houses above ground, but dug them into the earth: A circular crater (10–15 meters deep) serves as an open courtyard, from which cave-like rooms are horizontally driven into the soft sandstone. The temperature remains a pleasant 18–22°C year-round — a brilliant adaptation to the extreme climate.

Matmata became world-famous in 1976 when George Lucas filmed the home of Luke Skywalker on the desert planet Tatooine here. The Hotel Sidi Driss, a converted troglodyte house, served as the setting for the Lars family's moisture farm. The sets are still preserved — the dining room and bar are decorated with Star Wars props. The film crew returned for "Star Wars: Episode II" (2002).

What to see

• Hotel Sidi Driss: The original Star Wars set. Non-guests can visit for 5 TND. Having a beer (or tea) in the Tatooine dining room is a must for fans.
• Troglodyte houses: Several inhabited cave houses can be visited. Berber families open their homes for a small tip (2–5 TND) and explain underground life. Fascinating: kitchen, bedroom, storage rooms, oil press — all underground.
• New Matmata (Matmata Nouvelle): In the 1960s, the government initiated the construction of a "modern" settlement on the plain. Many Berbers moved, some stayed in their caves. The contrasts between old and new tell a story of modernization.

Getting there: Louage from Gabès (45 min, €1.50). By rental car from Djerba (2h via Gabès). Day trips from Djerba (organized, from €40 per person).

★★★ Ksar Ouled Soltane

The most spectacular granary castle in Tunisia is located 22 km south of Tataouine and is a masterpiece of Berber architecture. Four levels of storage cells (Ghorfas) surround two courtyards in a honeycomb structure reminiscent of a beehive. The vaulted cells served the semi-nomadic Berbers as secure storage rooms for grain, oil, and valuables.

Ksar Ouled Soltane was also a Star Wars set: The slave quarters on the planet Tatooine in "Episode I: The Phantom Menace" (1999) were filmed here. The resemblance to alien architecture is astonishing.

22 km south of Tataouine. Free entry. Accessible at any time. Best in the morning or late afternoon for photos (light play in the courtyards).

★★ Other Ksour (Granary Castles)

The region around Tataouine and Médenine is home to dozens of Ksour (plural of Ksar). Particularly worthwhile:

• Ksar Médenine: Directly in the city, the largest Ksar in the region with over 6,000 Ghorfas. Today partially used as shops and cafes.
• Ksar Haddada: Converted into a hotel — you can stay in a Ghorfa! Also a Star Wars filming location (Mos Espa).
• Ksar Hallouf: Remote and rarely visited, but particularly authentic. The Ghorfas are up to five stories high.
• Chenini: A dramatically perched Berber village with abandoned Ghorfas and an old mosque. The view over the desert plain is breathtaking.
• Douiret: Another abandoned hilltop village with troglodyte houses and an underground oil mill. Atmospheric and deserted.

★★ Gabès — The Sea Oasis

Gabès is the world's only oasis by the sea — a palm grove of over 300,000 date palms stretches directly along the Mediterranean coast. The city itself (120,000 inhabitants) is industrial and not particularly pretty, but the oasis of Chenini-Gabès on the outskirts is worth a visit: A labyrinth of irrigation channels, palm gardens, and orchards, where it is 10°C cooler than in the city.

Gabès is mainly important as a transport hub: Here, the roads from the coast (Sfax), from Djerba, and from the Sahara (Matmata, Tozeur) converge. The lively market (Souk Jara) on Tuesday is one of the most authentic in Tunisia.

Louage from Sfax (2h, €4), from Tunis (5h, €10). Ferry to Djerba from Jorf (20 km south, 15 min).

★★ Zarzis

The coastal town of Zarzis (70 km south of Djerba) is the quiet alternative to tourist hotspots. Miles of deserted sandy beaches, olive groves, and a relaxed small-town life. In recent years, several boutique hotels and eco-accommodations have emerged, positioning Zarzis as an alternative for travelers seeking tranquility.

• Beaches: The beaches south of the town (towards Sangho) are among the most secluded in Tunisia — golden sand, crystal-clear water, hardly a soul.
• Olive oil: The region produces top-quality olive oil. Oil mill tours are possible (autumn = harvest time).
• Gateway to the Desert: From Zarzis, you can reach the Ksour and the Sahara border areas.