Sousse, El Jem & Kairouan

★★★ Sousse — The Pearl of the Sahel

Sousse is Tunisia's third-largest city (approx. 270,000 inhabitants) and one of the country's most popular destinations. The city uniquely combines history and beach life: A UNESCO-protected Medina from the 9th century meets kilometers of sandy beaches, lively souks meet modern beach promenades.

Sousse boasts over 3,000 years of history. The Phoenicians founded the city of Hadrumetum here, the Romans made it a provincial capital, and the Aghlabids built the fortifications in the 9th century, which are now part of the World Heritage. Unlike some seaside resorts, Sousse has preserved real life and authenticity — the Medina is not a museum but a vibrant city district.

Plan at least 1–2 days for Sousse: half a day for the Medina, half for the archaeological museum, plus beach time and dinner at the harbor.

★★ Beaches of Sousse

The city beach of Sousse stretches north of the Medina along the Boujaafar promenade. The beach is wide, sandy, and lively in summer — but also heavily frequented. For quieter beaches, it's worth the short drive north.

★★ Port el-Kantaoui

The marina and tourist resort is located 10 km north of Sousse and was created in the 1970s as a planned town — a Tunisian Port Grimaud. What sounds artificial has its charm: A pretty marina with restaurants, cafes, and boutiques, surrounded by well-kept gardens, golf courses, and large resort hotels.

The beaches of Port el-Kantaoui are among the most beautiful and cleanest in the region: fine white sand, gently sloping water, perfect for families. Boat tours (pirate ship, glass-bottom boat) and water sports are available from the harbor.

• Golf Course: 36-hole course right by the sea, one of the best in North Africa. Green fee from 50€.
• Acqua Palace: Large water park, popular with families (15 TND entry).
• Botanical Garden: The Oasis Park offers shady walking paths with exotic plants.

Arrival from Sousse: Taxi (10 min, 5 TND), Tuk-Tuk or "Noddy Train" (tourist train along the coast, 3 TND).

★★ Monastir — Habib Bourguiba's Hometown

Monastir is inextricably linked with Habib Bourguiba — the "Father of Tunisian Independence," who was born here in 1903 and made the city his prestige project. Wide boulevards, an oversized mausoleum, and a palace by the sea testify to the megalomania and at the same time the modernization achievements of the man who freed Tunisia from France.

★★★ Ribat of Monastir

The Ribat of Monastir (796 AD) is one of the oldest and most impressive of its kind. Originally a small fortress, it was expanded over centuries and served as a defensive structure, place of prayer, and — thanks to its photogenic walls — as a film set: "Life of Brian" (Monty Python) and "Jesus of Nazareth" (Zeffirelli) were partially filmed here.

From the watchtower, there is a spectacular view over the harbor, the old town, and the golden mausoleum of Bourguiba.

At the Old Port. 8 TND. Tue–Sun 8:00–18:00.

★★ Bourguiba Mausoleum

The splendid mausoleum with its golden dome and slender minarets is visible from afar. Habib Bourguiba (1903–2000), Tunisia's first president, is buried here. The complex with the well-kept cemetery, marble colonnades, and richly decorated burial chamber deliberately recalls oriental rulers' tombs.

Av. Habib Bourguiba. Free entry. Daily 9:00–16:30.

Monastir as a Seaside Resort

The beaches of Monastir are less spectacular than in Hammamet or Djerba, but the beach of Skanes (5 km north) offers fine sand and calm water. Here, the large package hotels line up.

Arrival: Louage from Sousse (30 min, 1.50€). Train from Sousse (20 min, 1€). Monastir-Habib Bourguiba Airport (MIR) is 9 km away.

★★★ Amphitheater of El Jem (UNESCO World Heritage)

In the middle of the Tunisian steppe, in the sleepy town of El Jem, stands one of the most magnificent structures of antiquity: the third-largest amphitheater of the Roman world. It is the largest preserved after the Colosseum in Rome and the (destroyed) amphitheater of Capua — and in some respects more impressive than its Roman counterpart.

The Numbers

What makes El Jem so special: The facade is almost completely preserved on three stories — three rows of arcades with Corinthian, Ionic, and Composite capitals stacked on top of each other. You can also enter the underground (hypogeum), where gladiators and wild animals once waited for their appearance — the cells, corridors, and elevator shafts are impressively well-preserved.

The history of the amphitheater is equally fascinating: Thysdrus (the Roman name) was one of the richest cities in Africa in the 3rd century — made wealthy by olive oil. The proconsul Gordian had the theater built to bolster his claim to the imperial throne. He was indeed proclaimed emperor (238 AD) but lost both the throne and his life a few weeks later.

In the 17th century, the Bey of Tunis breached the wall to drive out rebels who had entrenched themselves in the amphitheater — this gap is now the only visible damage to the otherwise perfect facade.

★★ Archaeological Museum El Jem

200 meters from the amphitheater is an excellent museum on the site of an excavated Roman villa. The mosaics here are spectacular and less crowded than at the Bardo. Particularly impressive: the Africa mosaics illustrating the wealth of Thysdrus, and the reconstructed dining room of a Roman villa with original mosaic floors.

In the garden, more mosaics and sculptures are displayed, along with a second, older, and smaller amphitheater (1st century AD) that most visitors overlook.

Practical Info:

• Amphitheater: 12 TND. Daily 8:00–18:00 (summer 7:30–19:00). In summer: El Jem Music Festival (symphony orchestra in an ancient setting!)
• Museum: 7 TND (combo ticket with amphitheater: 15 TND). Tue–Sun 9:00–17:00.
• Arrival: Louage from Sousse (1h, 2€), train from Sousse (45 min, 1.50€). El Jem is a perfect half-day trip from Sousse or on the route Sousse → Sfax.

★★★ Kairouan — The Fourth Holiest City of Islam

Kairouan is one of the most significant cities in the Islamic world. Founded in 670 AD by the Arab general Oqba ibn Nafi as a military camp, the city developed into the first Islamic capital of the Maghreb and the spiritual center of North Africa. In Islamic tradition, seven pilgrimages to Kairouan are equivalent to one to Mecca.

Today, Kairouan (approx. 120,000 inhabitants) is a UNESCO World Heritage city that has preserved its historical authenticity. The Medina is less touristy than Tunis or Sousse, but all the more atmospheric. Kairouan is located 60 km inland from Sousse — a half-day trip from the coast or a worthwhile stop on the way south.

★★★ Great Mosque of Kairouan (Oqba Mosque)

The oldest mosque in North Africa and one of the most important in the Islamic world. Founded in 670, in its current form from the 9th century (Aghlabids). The vast courtyard (135×80 meters) is surrounded by colonnades, whose columns were gathered from all over the Mediterranean — each is different. The 31.5-meter-high minaret is the oldest surviving minaret tower in the Islamic world.

Non-Muslims may visit the courtyard and colonnades but cannot enter the prayer hall. Through the door, you can glimpse the forest of ancient columns and the carved prayer niche (Mihrab) — both considered masterpieces of Islamic art.

North of the Medina. 12 TND (combo ticket for all monuments). Daily except Fri 8:00–14:00, Sat–Thu 8:00–18:00. Appropriate clothing required, scarves are provided at the entrance.

★★ Aghlabid Basins (Bassins des Aghlabides)

These monumental water reservoirs from the 9th century are a masterpiece of engineering. Two circular basins (the larger has a diameter of 128 meters!) were built to supply the city with water from the mountains 36 km away. A sophisticated filtration system with settling pools purified the water. The facility impressively shows how advanced Islamic civilization was in the Middle Ages.

North of the mosque. Included in the combo ticket. Daily 8:00–18:00.

★★ Sidi-Sahab Mosque (Barber Mosque)

The most magnificent mosque in Kairouan houses the tomb of Abu Zama al-Balawi, a companion of the Prophet Muhammad, who allegedly carried three of the Prophet's beard hairs — hence the name "Barber Mosque". The interiors with their Zellige tiles (geometric ceramic mosaics), carved stucco ceilings, and painted wooden ceilings are breathtaking. One of the most beautiful sacred spaces in North Africa.

West of the Medina. Free entry. Daily 8:00–18:00. Shoes off.

★★ Medina of Kairouan

The Medina is more compact and quieter than those of Tunis or Sousse. Locals shop here, tourists are rare. Particularly worth seeing:

• Bir Barouta: A historic well in the center of the Medina, powered by a camel walking in circles. Legend has it that the water is connected to the Zamzam Well in Mecca.
• Carpet Merchants: Kairouan is Tunisia's carpet capital. The hand-knotted carpets (Kairouan carpets) are famous nationwide. In the workshops of the Medina, you can watch the weavers at work.
• Makroud: The famous pastry from Kairouan — semolina dough filled with date paste and dipped in honey. Every bakery has its own recipe, and Kairouanis claim that only their Makroud is the real one.

★★ Sfax — The Underrated Economic Center

Tunisia's second-largest city (approx. 330,000 inhabitants) is often overlooked by tourists — and that's precisely what makes it appealing. Sfax is an authentic working city: no hotel resorts, no tourist shops, but a beautifully preserved Medina, great restaurants, and real Tunisian everyday life.

★★★ Medina of Sfax

The Medina of Sfax is considered the best-preserved medieval city wall in Tunisia. The massive walls (from the 9th century) are almost completely intact and form a perfect rectangle. Inside: a labyrinth of alleys, mosques, and souks that have changed little over the centuries. Here, Sfaxians shop — not tourists.

• Bab Diwan: The imposing main gate in the south, fully restored. Next to it, the archaeological museum.
• Dar Jellouli: A magnificent 17th-century townhouse, now a museum of traditional art and folk culture. The wood carvings and tile work are masterful.
• Souks: Authentic and unspoiled. Especially the Souk el-Jemaa (Fridays) and the perfume merchants near the Great Mosque.

Kerkennah Islands

An hour by ferry from Sfax are the Kerkennah Islands — an archipelago of two main islands, flat as a pancake, with traditional fishing, palm gardens, and absolute tranquility. Kerkennah is the opposite of Djerba: no resorts, no tourists, just fishermen and palm groves. Ideal for travelers seeking true seclusion.

Ferry from Sfax: 1h, several times daily, 2 TND. On the island: few simple hotels and guesthouses.

Arrival in Sfax: Louage from Sousse (2h, 4€), train from Tunis (4h, 5–8€). Sfax is a good stopover on the route Sousse → Gabès → Djerba.