Tunis & Surroundings

Tunis is a city of contrasts. On one side, the Medina — a UNESCO-protected labyrinth from the 7th century with over 700 historic monuments, winding alleys, and lively souks. On the other side, the Ville Nouvelle (New Town) with wide Parisian-style boulevards, Art Deco facades, and air-conditioned cafés.

The city, with around 2.7 million inhabitants in the metropolitan area, is not only the political center but also the cultural heart of Tunisia. It is home to the country's best museums, the most vibrant art scene, and the most interesting restaurants. Additionally, it boasts a unique geographical location: Situated on the Gulf of Tunis, with the ruins of Carthage to the north, the picturesque Sidi Bou Said above it, and the seaside resorts of La Marsa and La Goulette right next door.

Plan at least 2–3 days for Tunis and its surroundings. The Medina alone deserves a whole day, the Bardo Museum half a day, and Carthage + Sidi Bou Said perfectly fill another day.

★★★ Medina of Tunis (UNESCO World Heritage)

The Medina of Tunis is one of the best-preserved medieval cities in the Islamic world. Founded in 698 AD under the Aghlabids, it flourished in the 12th–15th centuries under the Hafsids. Covering an area of 270 hectares, it contains over 700 historic monuments: mosques, madrasas (Koranic schools), zaouias (saint shrines), hammams, fondouks (caravanserais), and palaces.

What makes it special: The Medina is alive. Unlike in some Moroccan cities, where the Medina has been turned into a museum, thousands of Tunisians still live and work here. The souks are not tourist traps but real shopping streets for locals — alongside the vendors who, of course, also cater to tourists.

★★★ Ez-Zitouna Mosque (Olive Tree Mosque)

The oldest and most important mosque in Tunis, founded in 732 AD, is the spiritual and geographical center of the Medina. The courtyard with its ancient columns (many from Carthage!) is accessible to non-Muslims — the prayer hall itself is not. The square minaret tower is visible from everywhere in the Medina and serves as a landmark.

Rue Djemaa ez-Zitouna. Courtyard freely accessible (except during prayer). Appropriate clothing required!

★★★ The Souks

The souks of the Medina are organized by crafts — a tradition dating back centuries:

• Souk el-Attarine (perfume merchants) — right next to the mosque, intoxicating scents of jasmine, rose, amber, and oud
• Souk el-Trouk (cloth merchants) — magnificent fabrics and traditional clothing (Jebba, Safsari)
• Souk el-Berka — historically the slave market, today goldsmiths and jewelers
• Souk el-Leffa — wool blankets and carpets from all over the country
• Souk el-Blaghdjia — the famous Tunisian babouche slippers in all colors
• Souk el-Chaouachiyin — the Chéchia makers, the traditional red felt cap has been made here since the 17th century

★★ Dar Ben Abdallah (Folk Museum)

This splendid city palace from the 18th century offers an insight into the life of the wealthy Tunisian upper class. Carved stucco ceilings, painted wooden ceilings, courtyard with marble fountain — and an exhibition on traditional clothing, jewelry, and everyday objects.

Impasse Ben Abdallah. 3 TND. Tue–Sun 9:30–16:30.

★★ Dar el-Haddad

Another beautifully restored palace in the Medina, now a museum for traditional crafts. The tile work and stucco decorations are breathtaking.

★★ Tourbet el-Bey

The most magnificent mausoleum in Tunis — the burial site of the Husseinid dynasty (1705–1957), Tunisia's last rulers. Italian marble, Andalusian tiles, and Ottoman calligraphy combine in an architectural masterpiece.

Rue Tourbet el-Bey. 2 TND. Mon–Sat 9:30–16:30.

★★★ Musée National du Bardo

The Bardo Museum is the most important museum in North Africa and houses the world's largest and most significant collection of Roman mosaics. Housed in a former Beylical palace (13th–19th century), it brings together archaeological treasures from prehistory through Carthage and Rome to the Islamic period.

The Highlights

• Virgil Mosaic (3rd century AD): The museum's masterpiece depicts the Roman poet Virgil, flanked by two muses. One of the few ancient portraits of a real person. 3×3 meters in size, with a level of detail comparable to photographs.
• Neptune Mosaic: A massive floor mosaic from the 2nd century, showing Neptune on his chariot, surrounded by sea creatures. Over 100 m² in size.
• Odysseus Mosaic: Odysseus, bound to the mast, resists the song of the sirens. From Dougga (2nd century AD).
• Punic Collection: Grave goods, terracottas, and steles from Carthage — testimonies of a civilization systematically eradicated by the Romans.
• Islamic Department: Calligraphy, ceramics, and textiles from the Aghlabid and Hafsid periods.
• The palace itself: The interiors with their painted wooden ceilings, stucco work, and tiles are standalone works of art.

Le Bardo (Métro Léger, Bardo Station). 13 TND (approx. 4€). Entry with photo permission: 14 TND. Tue–Sun 9:00–17:00 (summer until 18:00). Closed on Mon. Audioguide available (French, English). Duration: at least 2–3 hours.

★★★ Carthage (UNESCO World Heritage)

Carthage was once the most powerful city in the western Mediterranean — Rome's arch-enemy, home of Hannibal, center of a trading empire that stretched from Spain to Libya. According to legend, founded in 814 BC by the Phoenician princess Dido, Carthage controlled the sea trade routes until Rome completely destroyed the city in 146 BC after three Punic Wars — the ground was salted so that nothing would grow again.

However, the Romans themselves rebuilt Carthage: Under Augustus, it became the third-largest city of the empire (after Rome and Alexandria), with spectacular baths, theaters, and villas. Today's ruins mostly date from this Roman phase.

The Most Important Sites

★★★ Antoninus Pius Baths (Thermes d'Antonin)

The largest Roman baths outside Rome — and the most impressive ruin of Carthage. From the massive complex, a 15-meter-high column still stands, hinting at the dimensions of the frigidarium (cold bath room). The complex is located right by the sea with a spectacular view over the Gulf of Tunis.

Avenue de la République. Included in the combination ticket.

★★ Byrsa Hill & National Museum

The hill where the Punic acropolis stood. At the top, the French-built Saint-Louis Cathedral (now a cultural center) stands next to the National Museum of Carthage with finds from the Punic and Roman periods. The view from the hill over the entire Gulf is breathtaking.

★★ Tophet (Punic Sanctuary)

One of the most controversial archaeological sites of antiquity: The Tophet was a sanctuary where — according to the disputed thesis — the Carthaginians offered child sacrifices to their gods Baal Hammon and Tanit. Hundreds of urns with children's bones were found. The interpretation is disputed among archaeologists. Fascinating and disturbing at the same time.

★★ Roman Theater & Villa District

The restored theater is used in summer for the Festival International de Carthage (July–August) — concerts and performances in an ancient setting. In the neighborhood: the remains of luxurious Roman villas with well-preserved mosaic floors.

★ Punic Ports

Two artificial harbor basins — the commercial port (circular) and the military port (rectangular) — were the heart of Carthaginian naval power. Today they are water-filled depressions, but a model in the Oceanographic Museum shows how the facility once housed 220 warships simultaneously.

Combination ticket: 12 TND (approx. 3.50€) for all Carthage sites. Available at the entrance of the Antoninus Pius Baths or on Byrsa Hill. The sites are scattered — plan 3–4 hours. Best with the TGM (stations Carthage Salammbô, Carthage Byrsa, Carthage Hannibal, Carthage Dermech) or on foot.

★★★ Sidi Bou Said

The most photographed village in Tunisia perches on a hill above the Gulf of Tunis. Whitewashed houses, cobalt blue doors and window frames, blooming bougainvilleas, and narrow cobblestone alleys make Sidi Bou Said one of the most beautiful villages on the entire Mediterranean.

The village is named after the Sufi saint Abu Said ibn Khalef al-Beji (13th century), whose mausoleum stands atop the hill. In the early 20th century, the beauty of the place attracted artists from all over Europe: Paul Klee and August Macke painted their famous watercolors here in 1914, revolutionizing European Expressionism. Klee wrote in his diary: "Color has me. I don't need to chase after it. It has me forever."

What to See

• Café des Nattes — The legendary café on the main street where Paul Klee drank his tea. Steep steps lead to the terrace overlooking the Gulf. Order the Thé aux pignons (mint tea with pine nuts) — served in a glass cup with floating pine nuts and a hint of orange blossom water. The ultimate café experience.
• Dar el-Annabi — A beautifully restored traditional house from the 18th century, offering an insight into the life of a wealthy Tunisian family. Mannequins in historical costumes in original rooms.
• Ennejma Ezzahra (Palais Baron d'Erlanger) — The palace of the French-German Baron Rodolphe d'Erlanger (1872–1932), a musicologist who studied Arabic music here. Today the Centre des Musiques Arabes et Méditerranéennes. The architecture alone — a blend of Andalusian and Tunisian style — and the gardens with sea views are worth the visit.
• The Harbor — At the foot of the hill lies a small harbor with fishing boats. Less touristy than above, good fish restaurants.

TGM Station: Sidi Bou Said (25 min. from Tunis Marine). The place is compact and can be explored in 1–2 hours. Best at sunset. On weekends (especially Saturday), many Tunisians come — charming but crowded.

★★ La Marsa

The most elegant suburb of Tunis is at the end of the TGM line right by the sea. La Marsa is where wealthy Tunisians live and go out. The beach of La Marsa is not the prettiest (rather urban), but the café culture is legendary: Along the beach promenade and in the side streets, cafés and restaurants line up.

• Café Saf Saf — The oldest café in the district under a massive tree, with narguile (water pipe) and traditional pastries. A must for the atmosphere.
• Beach of Marsa Plage: Urban, but in summer the meeting point of Tunisian youth. Beach bars and restaurants.
• Gammarth: The neighboring town (5 min. by taxi) has the nicer beaches and luxury hotels (Four Seasons, The Residence).

★★ La Goulette (Halq el-Wadi)

The port suburb of Tunis has a fascinating history: Until the 1960s, Tunisians, Italians, Maltese, and Sephardic Jews lived here peacefully together — a mosaic of cultures immortalized in the film "Un été à La Goulette".

Today, La Goulette is famous for its fish restaurants. Along Avenue Roosevelt, dozens of eateries line up, serving freshly caught fish, shrimp, and mussels — significantly cheaper than in the city center. On weekends, Tunisians come in families for fish meals.

Worth seeing: The Kasbah of La Goulette, a Spanish fortress from the 16th century, and the cruise port, from which you can enjoy the view over the entire Gulf of Tunis.

TGM Station: La Goulette. 15 min. from Tunis Marine.