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Verstehen · Kapitel 10

Food & Drink

Tunisia Reiseführer

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VerstehenKapitel 10: Food & Drink
Verstehen · Kapitel 10

Food & Drink

Tunisian cuisine is a feast — spicy, aromatic, and diverse. From crispy Brik to steaming Couscous to sweet Makroud: a culinary guide through a country that wants to be understood through its food.

Tunisian Cuisine

Tunisian cuisine is the spiciest in the Maghreb and one of the most diverse in North Africa. It combines Berber foundations with Arab, Turkish, Andalusian, and French influences into something unique. Three ingredients are ubiquitous: olive oil (Tunisia is the fourth largest producer in the world), Harissa (the fiery chili paste), and coriander.

The Classics

★★★ Brik

The national dish of Tunisia and a must-experience. A paper-thin pastry shell (Malsouka — spread thinly by hand on a hot copper lid) is filled with a raw egg, tuna, capers, parsley, and Harissa, folded together and fried in oil until golden brown. The egg should still be runny when bitten into — the art is not to spill anything. Every family, every restaurant has its own recipe. Price: 0.50–2 TND.

★★★ Couscous

The heart of Tunisian cuisine. Semolina grains, steamed for hours over a spicy broth, served with lamb, chicken, or fish, vegetables (chickpeas, carrots, pumpkin, zucchini), and a spicy sauce. Tunisian couscous is spicier than Moroccan and is often served with a red sauce (instead of yellow). Friday is Couscous Day — then every family cooks.

★★★ Lablabi

The breakfast of Tunisians: A hearty soup of chickpeas in a broth with garlic, cumin, and Harissa, served over crumbled old bread. On top: a raw or poached egg, olive oil, capers, olives. Sounds simple, is genius. For 1–2 TND you get a bowl that keeps you full until evening.

★★ Ojja

The Tunisian Shakshuka: Eggs poached in a spicy tomato sauce with peppers, Harissa, Merguez sausage, or shrimp. Served in the pan, with fresh bread. A classic lunch or dinner.

★★ Mechouia

The Tunisian grilled salad: grilled tomatoes, peppers, and onions are chopped and dressed with olive oil, capers, tuna, and Harissa. Practically comes as a starter on every table — free, as part of the "Couvert" (cover charge).

★★ Tajine (Tunisian)

Beware of confusion: The Tunisian Tajine is not a stew like in Morocco, but a kind of frittata/casserole: eggs with meat, cheese, and vegetables, baked in the oven and cut into diamonds. Popular as street food and at celebrations.

★★ Merguez

The spicy lamb sausage from North Africa — particularly fiery in Tunisia. Grilled with bread, Harissa, and Mechouia salad, it is the perfect street food.

Drinks

Hot Drinks

  • Café (Espresso): Tunisians drink a lot of strong coffee. The "Direct" is a double espresso, the "Capucin" a cappuccino. In cafés (almost exclusively men, but female tourists are welcome) from 0.30€.
  • Thé à la menthe: Peppermint tea, very sweet, served in small glasses. The national drink.
  • Thé aux pignons: Peppermint tea with pine nuts and a hint of orange blossom water — the specialty of Sidi Bou Said.

Alcohol

Tunisia has a surprisingly lively drinking culture:

  • Celtia: The Tunisian beer. A lager, decently chilled, perfect after a hot day. 1.50–3€ in restaurants.
  • Tunisian wine: Underestimated! The best: Vieux Magon (red wine), Magon (rosé), Muscat de Kelibia (sweet white wine), Sidi Rais (Pinot Gris). From 5 TND in restaurants.
  • Boukha: Fig brandy — the Jewish-Tunisian specialty. Clear, strong (36%), with a distinctive fig aroma. As a digestif or with cola.
  • Thibarine: Date liqueur — sweet and aromatic. A perfect souvenir.

Alcohol is available in tourist restaurants, hotels, bars, and in stores of the Magasin Général chain. Not in all restaurants and not during Ramadan (then only in hotels).

Refreshments

  • Citronnade: Freshly squeezed lemon juice with sugar and orange blossom water. Heavenly refreshing.
  • Jus d'orange: Freshly squeezed orange juice — available everywhere, from 0.50 TND.
  • Boga: Tunisian lemonade in retro bottles. Cidre (apple), Limoun (lemon), Gaseuze (natural).

Restaurant Guide

Where to eat?

  • Gargote: Simple eateries, often without a menu. You get what is available — Couscous, Ojja, Lablabi. Authentic, affordable (3–5 TND), sometimes rustic. This is where Tunisians eat.
  • Restaurant: Upscale local cuisine with a menu. 8–20 TND per main course. Often with Mechouia, Brik, and olives as a free Couvert.
  • Restaurant touristique: Geared towards tourists, often with a folklore show. More expensive (15–30 TND), not always better. Good for a one-time experience.
  • Street stalls: Brik, Merguez, Fricassé (fried bun with tuna, egg, Harissa, olives), Bambaloni (churros). Cheap and delicious. 0.50–2 TND.
  • Patisserie: Tunisia has a fantastic pastry tradition. Baklava, Makroud (date-semolina diamonds from Kairouan), Bambalouni (fried dough rings with sugar), Samsa (almond puff pastry). Tasting is a must!

Price Level

TypePrice Range
Street food (Brik, Fricassé)0.50–2 TND
Gargote (Couscous, Ojja)3–8 TND
Good restaurant15–30 TND
Upscale restaurant30–60 TND
Fish restaurant (per kg of fish)20–40 TND

Tipp

The best food is found where the locals eat. If a simple eatery is full of Tunisians at lunchtime, go in — no matter how it looks. The most inconspicuous eateries often have the best food. And: The Couvert (starter set with Mechouia, olives, Brik) is ALWAYS included in the price.

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