Sidi Bou Said

★★★ Sidi Bou Said

The most photographed village in Tunisia perches on a hill above the Gulf of Tunis. Whitewashed houses, cobalt blue doors and window frames, blooming bougainvilleas, and narrow cobblestone alleys make Sidi Bou Said one of the most beautiful villages on the entire Mediterranean.

The village is named after the Sufi saint Abu Said ibn Khalef al-Beji (13th century), whose mausoleum stands atop the hill. In the early 20th century, the beauty of the place attracted artists from all over Europe: Paul Klee and August Macke painted their famous watercolors here in 1914, revolutionizing European Expressionism. Klee wrote in his diary: "Color has me. I don't need to chase after it. It has me forever."

What to See

• Café des Nattes — The legendary café on the main street where Paul Klee drank his tea. Steep steps lead to the terrace overlooking the Gulf. Order the Thé aux pignons (mint tea with pine nuts) — served in a glass cup with floating pine nuts and a hint of orange blossom water. The ultimate café experience.
• Dar el-Annabi — A beautifully restored traditional house from the 18th century, offering an insight into the life of a wealthy Tunisian family. Mannequins in historical costumes in original rooms.
• Ennejma Ezzahra (Palais Baron d'Erlanger) — The palace of the French-German Baron Rodolphe d'Erlanger (1872–1932), a musicologist who studied Arabic music here. Today the Centre des Musiques Arabes et Méditerranéennes. The architecture alone — a blend of Andalusian and Tunisian style — and the gardens with sea views are worth the visit.
• The Harbor — At the foot of the hill lies a small harbor with fishing boats. Less touristy than above, good fish restaurants.

TGM Station: Sidi Bou Said (25 min. from Tunis Marine). The place is compact and can be explored in 1–2 hours. Best at sunset. On weekends (especially Saturday), many Tunisians come — charming but crowded.