North Bali

Lovina is North Bali's tourist center — although "tourist" is relative here. The 8 km stretch of coastline of black volcanic sand extends from Anturan to Temukus and is the exact opposite of Kuta: quiet, affordable, and unpretentious. No clubs, no boutiques, no influencers — instead, simple guesthouses, snorkeling boats, and fishermen mending their nets in the evening.

★★★ Dolphin Tours at Sunrise

The highlight of Lovina: Every morning at 5:30 am, dozens of traditional jukung outrigger boats set out to watch the spinner dolphins hunting in Lovina Bay. The animals appear in groups of 20–50, leaping acrobatically out of the water and spinning around their axis — a spectacle that lives up to its name. The sighting rate is over 90%, especially in the dry season (April–October).

Boat tour: 100,000–150,000 IDR (~6–9€) per person for about 2 hours. Departure: 5:30–6:00 am from the beach (bookable through hotel). Maximum 4 people per boat.

★★ Beach & Snorkeling

The black volcanic beach of Lovina is not a classic bathing paradise — the water is calm (no waves, ideal for children), but the sand is dark gray and the shore areas are partly rocky. The true beauty lies underwater: The offshore reef offers surprisingly good snorkeling with colorful corals, clownfish, rays, and occasionally turtles. Snorkeling equipment rental on the beach: 50,000 IDR/day.

★ Brahma Vihara Arama

Bali's only Buddhist monastery complex is located on a hill south of Lovina with panoramic views over the north coast. The complex is quiet and meditative — adorned with miniature stupas, gardens, and a golden Buddha statue. An unexpected contrast to the Hindu temple splendor of the rest of Bali and almost always deserted.

Entry: voluntary donation. Daily 8–18. Sarong required.

Accommodation & Dining in Lovina

Lovina is dirt cheap compared to the south:

• Simple room with air conditioning: from 150,000 IDR (~9€) per night
• Mid-range hotel with pool: from 350,000 IDR (~21€)
• Nasi Goreng in a warung: 20,000 IDR (~1.20€)
• Freshly grilled fish on the beach: 50,000 IDR (~3€)
• Bintang beer: 25,000 IDR (~1.50€)

Recommended restaurants: Jasmine Kitchen (Thai-Bali fusion, main courses 35,000–60,000 IDR), Warung Dolphin (seafood right on the beach, shrimp skewers 45,000 IDR), Spice Beach Club (upscale but still fair: cocktails 65,000 IDR).

Munduk is Bali's most beautiful mountain village — a sleepy place at 800 meters altitude, nestled in clove plantations, coffee gardens, and tropical rainforest. The air is fresh and cool (18–24°C), mist drifts through the valleys in the morning, and the landscape is more reminiscent of the Alps than a tropical island. Munduk is the perfect place to escape the beach hustle for 2–3 days.

★★★ Munduk Waterfall (Red Coral Waterfall)

The village's main waterfall — a 25-meter-high cataract plunging into a natural rock pool, surrounded by dense jungle and mossy rocks. The path there leads 15 minutes through a clove forest, whose scent is so intense you can taste it. Once at the pool, you can stand under the waterfall and refresh yourself with the spray — an unforgettable natural experience.

Entrance: 20,000 IDR (~1.20€). Slippery path — sturdy footwear required.

★★★ Golden Valley Waterfall

A hidden multi-tiered waterfall in a remote valley that has only been accessible to visitors for a few years. The water falls over three tiers a total of 50 meters, framed by an amphitheater of green cliffs. The hike there (30 min. from the parking lot) leads through rice fields and coffee plantations — the journey is half the attraction.

Entrance: 30,000 IDR. Local guide recommended (50,000 IDR) — the path is not always clearly marked.

★★★ Coffee Plantations

Munduk is the heart of Bali's coffee-growing region. The area produces both Arabica and Robusta beans, as well as the notorious Luwak coffee (Kopi Luwak) — the most expensive coffee in the world, made from beans eaten and excreted by civets. Several plantations offer tours:

• Munduk Moding Plantation — The most professional tour: 90 minutes through the plantation, explanation of the cultivation and roasting process, tasting of 5 different coffee and tea varieties. Price: 150,000 IDR (~9€)
• Bali Pulina — Larger, more touristy, but with spectacular views of the rice terraces. Tasting of 10+ drinks (coffee, tea, cocoa) for 50,000 IDR. Luwak coffee cup: 50,000 IDR extra

★★ Hiking around Munduk

The village is the ideal starting point for jungle hikes: A network of trails connects the various waterfalls, leads through clove and cocoa plantations, and offers viewpoints over the mountain lakes Tamblingan and Buyan. The most popular route: the waterfall trek (3–4 hours, 7 km), which connects three waterfalls and leads through dense rainforest. A local guide costs 200,000–300,000 IDR (~12–18€) and knows the hidden paths.

Gitgit is Bali's most famous and most easily accessible waterfall — a 35-meter-high cataract fed by a river and plunging into a large pool inviting for swimming. The waterfall is located on the main road between Singaraja and Bedugul and is therefore the most visited in the region — which has its pros and cons.

★★ Gitgit Waterfall (Main Fall)

The path from the parking lot to the waterfall leads 800 meters through a gauntlet of souvenir stalls and warungs — more commercial than the more remote waterfalls of the region. But the waterfall itself is impressive: The mass of water cascades down a wide curtain over the rock face, framed by ferns, moss, and tropical trees. The pool at the base is deep enough for swimming, but the water is cold (about 18°C) and the current directly under the fall is strong.

Entry: 20,000 IDR (~1.20€). Parking: 5,000 IDR. Open: daily 8–17.

★★★ Twin Waterfall (Campuhan)

Only 500 meters from the main fall but far less visited: Two parallel waterfalls that tumble down the rock face like twins. The path there leads through dense rainforest over roots and stones (15 min.) and feels significantly more adventurous than the polished path to the main fall. Fewer visitors, more nature experience, better photo opportunities.

Same entry as main fall (one ticket for both).

Practical Information

Gitgit is located at 500 meters altitude on the road from Denpasar to Singaraja. Most visitors come as part of a North Bali day tour. The waterfall can be easily combined with Pura Ulun Danu Bratan (30 min. south) or Lovina (40 min. north). It's quietest in the morning before 10 am.

Drive from Ubud: about 2 hours. From Lovina: 40 minutes. Private driver for North Bali day tour (incl. Gitgit, Ulun Danu, Munduk): 500,000–700,000 IDR.

The Air Panas Banjar (Banjar Hot Springs) are Bali's most popular natural thermal springs — a paradisiacal place where volcanically heated, sulfur-rich water flows from intricately carved Naga dragon heads into three tiered stone pools, nestled in a lush tropical garden with frangipani trees and palms.

★★★ The Pools

The water has a constant temperature of 37–40°C and is rich in sulfur and minerals, which are said to have healing effects for skin and joints. The three pools are terraced:

• Upper Pool — The hottest (40°C), small and intimate, often less visited
• Middle Pool — The largest and most popular, with several dragon heads from which warm water flows. Most visitors sit here and let the water run over their shoulders
• Lower Pool — A larger swimming pool with a pleasant 37°C, ideal for swimming and relaxing

Entry: 20,000 IDR (~1.20€) for adults, 10,000 IDR for children. Lockers: 10,000 IDR. Towel rental: 10,000 IDR. Open: daily 8–18.

★★ The Surroundings

Besides the pools, there is a restaurant overlooking the tropical garden (Nasi Goreng 25,000 IDR, fresh juice 15,000 IDR) and a small temple (Pura Komala). The complex is well-maintained, clean, and surprisingly affordable — it is one of the best value offers in all of Bali. After the bath, a detour to the nearby Brahma Vihara Arama (Buddhist temple, 2 km away) is recommended.

When to Visit?

On weekdays in the morning (8–10 am), the pools are almost empty — you share the warm water with a handful of locals. On weekends and holidays, Balinese families come in large groups. In the afternoon between 2 and 4 pm, it is the busiest. The rainy season (November–March) is particularly atmospheric: warm water, cool air, and raindrops on the surface.

Pura Ulun Danu Bratan is the most photogenic temple in Bali — and that means something on an island with over 20,000 temples. The Hindu-Buddhist water temple from the 17th century stands on a peninsula on Lake Bratan, 1,200 meters above sea level, and seems to float directly on the lake at high water levels. The temple adorns the Indonesian 50,000-rupiah banknote — it is a national landmark.

★★★ The Temple

The complex consists of several Meru pagodas (multi-tiered shrines with black palm fiber roofs) dedicated to the water goddess Dewi Danu. The largest Meru has eleven tiers — the highest number reserved only for the most important deities. Behind it rises the wooded silhouette of Mount Catur, and in the morning, mist often lies over the lake, giving the temple a mystical, otherworldly atmosphere.

The surrounding gardens are meticulously maintained with flower beds, lawns, and flamingo flower borders. A botanical garden (Kebun Raya Bali) adjoins directly and is worth a separate visit (2–3 hours).

Entry: 75,000 IDR (~4.50€). Parking: 10,000 IDR (scooter), 20,000 IDR (car). Open: daily 7–19.

★★ Photography

The temple is one of the most photographed subjects in Indonesia. The best shots are taken:

• In the morning 7–8 am — mist over the lake, soft light, almost no visitors. The golden hour makes the Merus particularly photogenic
• At high water levels (rainy season, Nov–March) — the Merus seem to float on the water
• From the jetty — a traditional jukung boat (30,000 IDR for 30 min.) takes you on the lake for unique perspectives

★ Lake Bratan

The Danau Bratan is a volcanic crater lake and an important water source for the rice fields of Central Bali. On the shore, there is a small amusement area with pedal boats (50,000 IDR/30 min.), parasailing, and water skiing — more for local day-trippers than international tourists, but amusing to watch. The lake is surrounded by mountains and offers a magnificent view of the volcano Gunung Batukaru in clear weather.

Sekumpul is considered the most beautiful waterfall in Bali — and once you stand before the thundering masses of water, you'll understand why. In fact, there are seven separate waterfalls that converge in a massive jungle-covered gorge. Two main cascades plunge over 80 meters into the depths, creating a permanent mist cloud that envelops the entire valley basin in a damp fog.

★★★ The Waterfall

The dimensions of Sekumpul are overwhelming: The cliffs tower over 100 meters above you, water trickles everywhere over moss-covered rocks, tropical plants cling to the steep walls, and the roar of the main falls is so loud you can hardly hear your own words. At the base of the falls, a natural pool forms, where you can — if you can withstand the spray — refresh yourself. The water is cold (16–18°C) and crystal clear.

The Descent

The path to the waterfall is demanding and not for the faint-hearted: From the parking lot, a steep staircase (about 300 steps) leads down into the gorge, then a path through rice fields and jungle, and finally, you have to cross a knee-deep river (shoes will get wet!). Overall: 30–45 minutes downhill, 45–60 minutes uphill. A local guide is mandatory (or at least strongly recommended) — the paths branch off, and it gets slippery in the rain.

Entry: 20,000 IDR. Local guide: 100,000 IDR per person (mandatory at the ticket counter). Parking: 10,000 IDR. Open: daily 7–17.

★★ Fiji Waterfall (Bonus)

Only 10 minutes from the Sekumpul parking lot lies another, lesser-known waterfall: Fiji (also called "Lemukih Waterfall"). Smaller than Sekumpul (about 30 m), but beautiful and almost always deserted. The descent is shorter (15 min.) and less steep. Perfect as a second stop if you still have energy.

Entry: 20,000 IDR (separate ticket).

Best Time to Visit

In the rainy season (November–March), the waterfalls are at their mightiest — huge volumes of water thunder into the depths, and the gorge steams. However, the paths are also slipperiest then, and the river crossing is more difficult. In the dry season (April–October), the waterfall is less mighty, but the paths are safer and the weather more predictable. Both seasons have their charm.

Singaraja was the capital of Bali until 1953 — a port city that became the administrative center of the island under the Dutch and preserves a fascinating mix of Balinese, Chinese, Arab, and European architecture. Today, Singaraja is Bali's second-largest city with 120,000 inhabitants but is almost completely ignored by tourists. That's what makes it so interesting.

★★ Old Town & Colonial Architecture

The former harbor promenade and the adjacent alleys still house dozens of Dutch colonial buildings from the 19th century — decaying villas with colonnades, a former royal palace, and the old harbor master's building. In between, there are Chinese temples (Ling Gwan Kiong at the old harbor is the most beautiful) and an Arab quarter with a mosque from the 15th century. A walk through the old town (1–2 hours) reveals layer upon layer of history.

★★ Gedong Kirtya — Lontar Library

A unique library with over 3,000 lontar manuscripts worldwide — handwritten texts on dried palm leaves preserving centuries of Balinese literature, medicine, astronomy, and religion. Founded in 1928 under Dutch administration, Gedong Kirtya is now a living archive where scholars study the texts and visitors can admire the fragile manuscripts (behind glass). Free entry.

Monday–Friday 8–15. Jl. Veteran, Singaraja.

★★ Pura Agung Jagatnatha

Singaraja's largest city temple, dedicated to the supreme god Sang Hyang Widhi Wasa. The complex is less spectacular than the major temples of South Bali but more authentic — you experience real ceremonies here without tourist staging. Elaborate rituals take place especially on full moon and new moon, attended by hundreds of devotees in traditional attire.

Entry: voluntary donation. Sarong required (rental at the entrance).

★ Pasar Anyar — Central Market

Singaraja's bustling main market is a sensory experience: mountains of tropical fruits (mangosteen, rambutan, salak), fresh fish from the Bali Sea, handmade sweets from sticky rice (Jaja Bali), spices, and everyday goods. Here you buy at real local prices — no tourist markups, no bargaining games. Most lively in the mornings between 6 and 9 am.

Dining in Singaraja

Singaraja has its own culinary tradition, distinct from South Bali:

• Siobak — Chinese-Balinese pork, crispy fried and served with sweet-spicy sauce. Best at "Warung Siobak Candra" (Jl. Erlangga, 25,000 IDR)
• Nasi Jinggo — Tiny rice portions in banana leaves, the "fast food" of North Bali (5,000 IDR / ~0.30€ each!). Available at street stalls everywhere in the evening
• Tipat Cantok — Rice cakes with peanut sauce and vegetables, a regional specialty (15,000 IDR)

From South Bali to the North

The drive from South Bali (Kuta, Seminyak, Ubud) to North Bali takes 2.5–4 hours, depending on the route and traffic. There are three main routes, each with its own character:

• Central Route (via Bedugul/Kintamani) — The most popular: From Ubud via Kintamani (volcano view), Bedugul (Ulun-Danu Temple) to Lovina. 3–3.5 hours. Winding, but scenically magnificent. Stops at rice terraces and spice markets along the way
• Western Route (via Pupuan/Munduk) — The most beautiful: From Tabanan via the Jatiluwih rice terraces and Munduk to Lovina. 3.5–4 hours. Less traffic, breathtaking mountain roads, coffee plantations
• Eastern Route (via Karangasem) — The quietest: Coastal road via Amed and Tejakula. 4+ hours. Interesting for divers (Amed, Tulamben), otherwise the detour

Transport Options

• Private Driver (recommended): 500,000–800,000 IDR (~30–48€) for the route, with stops along the way. The driver waits and drives back or stays overnight. The most comfortable option for families and couples
• Perama Shuttle: Cheaper tourist bus Ubud → Lovina: about 125,000 IDR (~7.50€). Runs 1–2× daily, duration: 3.5 hours. Not very flexible, but inexpensive
• Scooter: Only for experienced drivers — the mountain roads are steep, winding, and dangerous in the rain. But maximum freedom and the most beautiful way to experience Bali

Recommended Routes

2-Day Tour "Best of North Bali":

Day 1: Ubud → Jatiluwih Rice Terraces → Munduk (waterfalls, coffee plantation) → Overnight in Munduk or Lovina

Day 2: Dolphin boat tour at sunrise → Banjar Hot Springs → Sekumpul Waterfall → Return via Ulun Danu Bratan → Ubud

3-Day Tour "North Bali Intensive":

Day 1: Arrival via Bedugul, stop at Ulun Danu Bratan, continue to Munduk. Afternoon: explore waterfalls. Overnight Munduk

Day 2: Morning jungle hike → Drive to Lovina → Banjar Hot Springs → Singaraja old town → Dinner on the beach. Overnight Lovina

Day 3: Dolphin tour at sunrise → Sekumpul Waterfall → Gitgit Waterfall → Return to the south

Accommodations North Bali

North Bali is significantly cheaper than the south — often by 50–70%:

• Lovina Budget: Guesthouse with AC from 150,000 IDR (~9€). Recommendation: "Rambutan Hotel" (pool, breakfast, from 250,000 IDR)
• Munduk Mid-range: Boutique lodge with mountain view from 400,000 IDR (~24€). Recommendation: "Puri Lumbung Cottages" (traditional rice barn architecture, infinity pool, from 600,000 IDR)
• Lovina Luxury: "The Damai" — one of Bali's best boutique hotels, on a hill with panoramic views: from 2,500,000 IDR (~150€). Excellent restaurant, spa, total tranquility