Karangasem (Amlapura)

Karangasem (the city is officially called Amlapura) was once the center of the most powerful kingdom in Bali. Today it is a sleepy, authentic small town that hardly any tourist visits—and that is exactly what makes it so appealing. The remnants of the royal past are visible everywhere.

The Puri Agung Karangasem (Royal Palace) in the city center is a fascinating ensemble of Balinese, Chinese, and European architecture—the last Raja was a well-traveled cosmopolitan who integrated elements from London, Amsterdam, and Shanghai into his palace. The Bale Kambang (floating pavilion) in the lotus pond and the Maskerdam pavilion (named after Amsterdam!) are the highlights.

Amlapura is a quiet base for exploring East Bali: Tirta Gangga (15 min), Besakih (1 hr), Amed (45 min), and Padangbai (45 min) are easily accessible from here. Amlapura's morning market (daily from 5 am) is a lively spectacle with fruits, vegetables, spices, and flowers for temple offerings.