Split & Central Dalmatia
Split
Croatia's second-largest city (178,000 inhabitants) is not a museum — it is a vibrant metropolis within an ancient imperial palace. The Diocletian's Palace (UNESCO since 1979) was built in 305 AD as a retirement residence for the Roman Emperor Diocletian. Today, people live, work, eat, and celebrate within its 1,700-year-old walls. Nowhere else in the world is this possible.
Split is also the most important ferry and transport hub on the Dalmatian coast. Almost all ferries to the islands depart from here. Most travelers pass through Split — and many stay longer than planned.
Plan for at least 2–3 full days. The city deserves it.
Orientation
Split is compact and pedestrian-friendly. The main areas:
- Diocletian's Palace (Old Town): The heart. Within the palace walls are most of the attractions, restaurants, and bars. Completely car-free.
- Riva: The 250m long waterfront promenade directly south of the palace. Split's living room — the whole city meets here.
- Veli Varoš: The old fishing quarter west of the palace, on the slopes of Marjan Hill. Winding alleys, fewer tourists, cheaper restaurants.
- Manuš & Lučac: East of the palace. Up-and-coming neighborhoods with craft bars and street art.
- Bačvice: Split's home beach, 10 minutes southeast of the palace. Sandy beach (rare in Croatia!), bars, Picigin players.
- Marjan: Wooded peninsula west of the city. Hiking trails, viewpoints, hidden bays. Split's green lung.
- Harbor & Ferry Terminal: Directly east of the Riva. All island ferries depart here.
Attractions
★★★ Diocletian's Palace
The entire palace measures 215 × 180 meters and was the largest Roman residence ever built. The outer walls (up to 26m high) are almost completely preserved. Inside: a labyrinth of alleys, squares, churches, residential buildings, restaurants, and boutiques — all on ancient foundations.
Free access, 24/7. The individual attractions within the palace have separate entrance fees.
★★★ Peristyle
The heart of the palace — an open colonnaded courtyard that once served as a ceremonial place. Today an open-air stage: In summer, operas and theater performances take place here. The pink granite columns come from Egypt. Sit on the steps, order a coffee at one of the bars, and soak in the atmosphere.
Free access.
★★★ Cathedral of St. Domnius (Sv. Duje)
Originally the mausoleum of Emperor Diocletian — the most anti-Christian of all Roman emperors — it was converted into a cathedral in the 7th century. It is the oldest continuously used cathedral in the world. The bell tower (57m) offers the best panoramic view over Split.
Cathedral: 5€, Bell tower: 7€, Combo ticket: 10€. Daily 8 AM–7 PM (summer), shorter in winter. Bell tower: 176 narrow steps, not for the claustrophobic.
★★ Cellars of Diocletian's Palace (Podrum)
The underground vaults are astonishingly well-preserved and show the dimensions of the ancient palace. Game of Thrones fans know them as Daenerys' dragon dungeons. Occasionally exhibitions and events.
8€. April–October: 8:30 AM–9 PM, November–March: 9 AM–5 PM.
★★ Vestibule
Round, open antechamber to the imperial apartments. The dome (once decorated with mosaics) has a hole at the top — great for photos. Street musicians use the acoustics, and the a cappella singing here is magical.
Free access.
★★ Temple of Jupiter (Baptistery of St. John)
The tiny ancient temple was converted into a Christian baptistery. The Egyptian sphinx (3,500 years old!) at the entrance is one of the original 12 specimens — the other preserved one stands at the Peristyle.
3€, included in the combo ticket with the cathedral.
★★ Riva (Waterfront Promenade)
The promenade, completely redesigned in 2007, is Split's social hub. Palms, cafés, views of the sea and ferries. Joggers in the morning, tourists at noon, all of Split in the evening. A must: a coffee on the Riva.
★★ Green Market (Pazar)
Right by the eastern palace wall: Split's lively fruit and vegetable market. Fresh fruit, lavender sachets, honey, dried figs, pršut. Perfect for breakfast or as a picnic purchase.
Daily 6 AM–2 PM, smaller on Sundays.
★★ Fish Market (Peškarija)
Covered market west of the palace. Fresh fish directly from the boat. The selection is best in the morning. Even if you don't buy anything — the atmosphere is unique.
Daily 6 AM–1 PM.
★★ Marjan Peninsula
178m high wooded hill, only 15 minutes on foot from the old town. Running and cycling paths, the Vidilica viewing platform with 360° panorama, the chapel of St. Jure at the summit, and hidden pebble bays (Kašjuni, Bene) on the south side for swimming.
Free access, 24/7. Ascent to Vidilica: 20 min from Veli Varoš.
★ Ivan Meštrović Gallery
Villa and studio of Croatia's most important sculptor (1883–1962). Impressive sculptures in and around an elegant Secession villa, located directly by the sea.
10€. Tue–Sun 9 AM–7 PM (summer), 9 AM–4 PM (winter). Closed on Mondays.
★ Museum of the City of Split
In the Gothic Papalić Palace within Diocletian's Palace. History of Split from antiquity to today, with an impressive model of the palace in its original state.
5€. Tue–Sun 9 AM–9 PM (summer), 9 AM–5 PM (winter).
★ Diocletian's Aqueduct
2 km east of the old town: 9 km long Roman aqueduct (partially preserved) that once brought water from the Jadro River to the palace. Best seen on a walk towards Solin/Salona.
★ Salona (Solin)
5 km north of Split: the ruins of the former capital of the Roman province of Dalmatia (60,000 inhabitants in the 3rd century!). Amphitheater, city walls, early Christian basilicas. Little visited, lots of atmosphere.
4€. Daily 9 AM–7 PM (summer). Bus 37 from Split.
City Tour: Old Town & Diocletian's Palace
Duration: 2–3 hours | Distance: approx. 2.5 km | Best Time: Mornings from 8 AM (fewer tourists)
1. Riva (Start)
Start at the waterfront promenade. Coffee on the Riva to wake up, view of the harbor and the islands.
2. Bronze Gate (Mjedena Vrata)
The inconspicuous south gate of the palace, directly on the Riva. Through the cellar-like passage, you enter the cellars of the palace.
3. Cellars of Diocletian's Palace
Wander through the vaults, GoT feeling included. At the end, go up the stairs to the Peristyle.
4. Peristyle
Sit on the steps, enjoy the atmosphere. Look up: the Egyptian sphinx on the left has been guarding the entrance for 3,500 years.
5. Cathedral of St. Domnius + Bell Tower
First the cathedral (Diocletian's mausoleum!), then up the 176 steps. The view is worth the sweat.
6. Vestibule
Right next to the Peristyle: round open room with a dome. If a Klapa singer is singing — stay and listen.
7. Temple of Jupiter
Through a narrow alley to the former temple. The sphinx in front is the second preserved specimen.
8. Golden Gate (Zlatna Vrata) & Grgur Ninski Statue
The monumental north gate of the palace. Outside: the huge bronze statue of Bishop Grgur Ninski (Ivan Meštrović). Touching his big toe brings luck — you'll recognize it by the shiny polished toe.
9. Green Market (Pazar)
East side: Buy fresh fruit as a snack, lavender, and honey as a souvenir.
10. Veli Varoš
Through the Iron Gate (Željezna Vrata) westward into the old fishing quarter. Winding stone stairs, laundry on the line, cats everywhere.
11. Vidilica (Marjan Viewpoint)
From Veli Varoš, about 20 minutes ascent to the viewing platform. Panoramic view over Split, the palace, the harbor, and the islands. Perfect for photos.
12. Kašjuni Beach or back via Riva (End)
Either continue to the hidden Kašjuni Beach (15 min) or back via the Riva for a well-deserved sundowner.
Tipp
The tour works best in the morning (8–11 AM). In the afternoon, the palace is crowded, and the bell tower has long lines. Buy a combo ticket in the morning!
Dining & Drinking in Split
€ Budget (main course under 12€)
Kantun Paulina · Matošića 4
Tiny stand in a side alley with the best street food in town. Squid burger, tuna sandwich, local specialties. A queue is normal and worth it.
8–15€ · Daily 10 AM–11 PM
Fešta · Ul. Ivana pl. Zajca 3
No-frills konoba with honest food: grilled fish, Ćevapi, black risotto. Local atmosphere, fair prices.
7–14€ · Mon–Sat 9 AM–11 PM
Luka Ice Cream & Cakes · Svačićeva 2
Best ice cream parlor in Split — artisanal flavors, all homemade. Lavender ice cream is the recommendation.
Scoop 2€ · Daily 9 AM–11 PM
€€ Mid-range (main course 12–25€)
Konoba Matejuška · Ul. Tome Stržića 3
Right at the small fishing harbor Matejuška, away from the tourist paths. Fresh fish, seafood risotto, local wines. Reservation recommended!
12–22€ · Daily 12–11 PM · ★★
Uje Oil Bar · Domaldova 3
Creative Dalmatian cuisine focusing on Croatian olive oil. Tuna tartare, octopus under the bell, excellent wine selection.
14–25€ · Daily 11 AM–12 AM · ★★
Konoba Hvaranin · Ban Mladenova 9
Hidden in Veli Varoš. Family-run, only a few tables. The Peka (pre-order!) is legendary. Daily catch from the house's son.
10–20€ · Tue–Sun 12–10 PM · ★★
Bokeria Kitchen & Wine Bar · Domaldova 8
Modern-Dalmatian in a stylish setting. Great tapas selection, craft cocktails, local wines by the glass. Popular with younger locals.
12–22€ · Daily 10 AM–12 AM
€€€ Upscale (main course 25€+)
Dvor · Put Firula 14
In an old mill right by the sea, 2 km east of the old town. Finest seafood, perfect sunset. One of the most romantic locations in Split.
25–45€ · Daily 12–12 AM · ★★★ · Reservation!
Zrno Soli · Uvala Baluni bb
Fine dining at the ACI marina. Modern Croatian cuisine at the highest level, tasting menu with wine pairing. For special occasions.
35–60€ · Tue–Sat 12–11 PM · ★★★ · Reservation required
Cafés & Bars
D16 Coffee · Domaldova 16 · Specialty Coffee, Flat White 2.50€. Split's No. 1 hipster café.
Lvxor · At the Peristyle · Coffee at the Peristyle, literally on the steps of the imperial palace. More expensive than elsewhere, but where else can you sit like this?
Marvlvs Library Jazz Bar · Papalićeva 4 · Jazz bar in a converted library in the palace. Live music in the evenings.
Paradox Wine & Cheese Bar · Ilićev prolaz 2 · Croatian wines and cheese, cozy cellar atmosphere.
Central · At Pjaca (Narodni Trg) · Classic café on the busiest square. The whole of Split sits here.
Accommodation in Split
€ Budget (under 40€/night)
Split Boutique Hostel · Ul. Hrvoja Vukčića Hrvatinića 4
Best hostel in town: clean, central, great atmosphere. Dorms from 18€, private rooms from 50€. Rooftop terrace with palace view.
Tchaikovsky Hostel · Krešimirova 1
Small, personal, 5 min from the palace. Dorm 15€, double room 45€.
€€ Mid-range (40–120€/night)
Heritage Hotel Antique Split · Ul. Kraj Sv. Marije 1
Charming hotel in the heart of the old town, in a restored stone building. Double rooms from 80€. Breakfast on the rooftop terrace with views over the rooftops.
Apartment Splits Finest · Various locations
Excellently furnished apartments in the old town and surroundings. 2-room apartment from 70€/night. Ideal for families and longer stays.
Divota Apartment Hotel · Bačvice
Modern, right by Bačvice Beach. Studio from 65€, apartment from 90€. Rooftop pool!
€€€ Upscale (120€+/night)
Judita Palace Heritage Hotel · Narodni Trg 4
Directly on Pjaca (People's Square), in a Renaissance palace. Luxurious rooms with historical details. From 150€. Breakfast in the courtyard.
Hotel Vestibul Palace · Iza Vestibula 4a
The only hotel within Diocletian's Palace. Boutique luxury in ancient walls. From 200€. A unique experience.
Radisson Blu Resort Split · Put Trstenika 19
Modern resort 3 km south of the old town. Pool, spa, private beach. From 160€. Shuttle to the city.
Tipp
Split's old town apartments offer unbeatable value for money: 60–90€ for 2 people with a kitchen, right in the action. Book with private landlords (Booking.com or directly) instead of large chains.
Practical Information Split
Arrival and Further Travel
- Split Airport (SPU): 25 km west. Bus 37 (5€, 30 min), Taxi 35€.
- Bus Station: Right at the harbor, 5 min walk to the old town. Zagreb 5–6h (15–25€), Dubrovnik 4h (12–20€), Zadar 3h (10–15€).
- Ferry Terminal: At the eastern end of the harbor. Jadrolinija + Krilo to Brač, Hvar, Vis, Korčula, Lastovo.
- Train: Station next to the bus station. Zagreb 6h (15–25€), scenic route.
Within the City
- The old town is completely walkable.
- City Buses: Promet Split, single ticket 1.80€ (at the kiosk) or 2.50€ (on the bus).
- Uber/Bolt: Works well, cheaper than taxis.
- Parking: Old town car-free. Nearest parking garages: Konzum Garage (Hrvojeva), Spinčićeva. 1.50–3€/h.
Useful Addresses
- Tourist Office: Peristyle 1, daily 8 AM–9 PM (summer)
- Hospital: KBC Split, Spinčićeva 1 (Emergency 24/7)
- Police: Trg Hrvatske bratske zajednice 9
- Post Office: Ul. Kralja Tomislava 9, Mon–Fri 7 AM–8 PM
- ATMs: Everywhere in the old town, also at the Riva and bus station
Trogir★★
The entire old town of Trogir is a UNESCO World Heritage Site — and rightly so. The medieval town is located on a small island, connected by bridges to the mainland and the island of Čiovo. Just 30 minutes from Split Airport, Trogir is a quieter and cheaper alternative to Split itself.
★★★ Cathedral of St. Lawrence (Sv. Lovro)
The Romanesque Portal by Master Radovan (1240) is the most important work of Romanesque sculpture in all of Croatia. The bell tower (47m) offers the best view over the city. The interior: Chapel of St. John (Renaissance), impressive wooden choir stalls.
Church + bell tower: 5€. April–Oct: 8 AM–8 PM.
★★ Kamerlengo Fortress
Venetian fortress at the western end of the island with views over the canal and the islands. In summer, open-air cinema and concerts on the walls.
4€. April–Oct: 9 AM–9 PM.
Dining in Trogir
Konoba Trs · Budislavićeva 3 — Romantic courtyard with excellent seafood. Reserve! €€
Pizzeria Mirkec · Budislavićeva — Best pizza in town, affordable and popular with locals. €
Arrival and Further Travel
Bus 37 from Split Airport (15 min, 2€). Bus to Split center (30 min, 3€). Parking on the mainland before the bridge (1€/h).
Tipp
Trogir is the perfect stopover right after landing at Split Airport (15 min away). Spend one night here, then continue to Split or the islands.
Island Brač★★
The largest Dalmatian island (394 km²) is known for Croatia's most famous beach — Zlatni Rat — and the white limestone from which the Diocletian's Palace and even the White House in Washington were built.
★★★ Zlatni Rat (Golden Horn), Bol
THE beach of Croatia: a 500m long pebble spit that changes shape depending on wind and current. Turquoise water, pine-shaded shores, with the Vidova Gora mountains behind. West side: windsurfing and kitesurfing (Maestral wind from noon). East side: calmer, better for swimming.
Free access. Sunbed + umbrella: 15–20€/day. Sunset towards Hvar is spectacular.
★★ Vidova Gora
At 778m, the highest point of all Croatian islands. Road or hiking trail (1.5h from Bol). View of Zlatni Rat from above, Hvar, and on clear days, all the way to Italy. Magnificent sunset.
Free. By car or hike. No public transport.
★ Supetar
Ferry port and largest town on the island. Pretty promenade, small sandy beach, good restaurants. More of a transit point than a destination.
★ Pučišća
Picturesque town in a fjord. This is where the famous white Brač stone is quarried and worked. You can watch the work at the stonemasonry school.
Dining on Brač
Konoba Dalmatino · Bol, Frana Radića — Authentic konoba on the harbor square. Pre-order Peka! €€
Ranč · Bol, Podborje — Grilled lamb, octopus salad, island wines. Great terrace. €€
Arrival and Further Travel
Car ferry Split → Supetar (50 min, person 5€, car 35€, hourly). Catamaran Split → Bol (55 min, 12€, 2× daily). Bus Supetar → Bol (1h, 5€).
Tipp
Arrive at Zlatni Rat after 5 PM: less crowded, best light for photos, and the sunset towards Hvar is priceless.
Island Hvar
Hvar is Croatia's most glamorous island — yachts, beach bars, lavender fields. But away from Hvar Town, the island also has a quiet, authentic side. With 2,726 hours of sunshine per year, it is Croatia's sunniest island.
Hvar Town★★★
The star of the island: a Venetian dream harbor with the Španjola Fortress high above, yachts in the harbor, palm trees on the main square, and nightlife that easily outshines Split's.
★★★ Španjola Fortress (Fortica)
Venetian fortress from 1551 on the hill above the town. The climb (15 min) is worth it for the breathtaking 360° view over Hvar Town, the Pakleni Islands, and the open sea. Bring a bottle of wine for the sunset!
8€. April–Oct: 8 AM–10 PM.
★★ Main Square (Trg Sv. Stjepana)
Allegedly the largest square in Dalmatia. Arsenal (oldest public theater in Europe, 1612), cathedral with Renaissance bell tower, open-air cafés.
★★ Pakleni Islands (Paklinski Otoci)
Offshore island group, reachable by taxi boat (10 min, 5–10€). Several islands with beach bars and restaurants:
- Palmižana (Sv. Klement): Pine forest, restaurant with garden, gallery, boutique atmosphere. The most beautiful island.
- Jerolim: Official nudist beach. Quiet, unspoiled.
- Marinkovac: Carpe Diem Beach Club — day party with DJs and cocktails.
Nightlife
Hula Hula Beach Bar — Sundowner institution. Cocktails, DJs, dancing on the rocks. Daily sunset party from 5 PM.
Carpe Diem — The legendary bar at the harbor. Cocktails, lounge music, clubbing at night.
Kiva Bar — For those who prefer it less chic. Good drinks, rock music, locals.
Dining
Konoba Menego · Groda — Above the town, honest konoba with Peka and grilled fish. Perfect terrace. €€
Giaxa · Petra Hektorovića — Upscale Dalmatian cuisine with a modern twist. Tasting menu. €€€
Fig Café Bar · Fabrika bb — Creative breakfast and brunch. Avocado toast, smoothies, specialty coffee. €
Stari Grad★★
The oldest town on the island — and one of the oldest in all of Europe (founded in 384 BC as the Greek colony of Pharos). Much quieter than Hvar Town, with the Stari Grad Plain (UNESCO) in the hinterland: a 2,400-year-old land division system still in use today by Greek colonists.
★★ Tvrdalj
Fortified summer house of the Renaissance poet Petar Hektorović (16th century). Beautiful fish pond in the courtyard, inscriptions on the walls.
4€. May–Oct: 10 AM–1 PM & 5–8 PM.
Hiking Tip: Stari Grad → Hvar Town
Across the island through lavender fields and olive groves. 12 km, approx. 3.5h. Views of both coasts. Unforgettable in June when the lavender blooms.
Lavender Fields & Island Interior
Hvar's interior is a sea of lavender (bloom: mid-June to mid-July), rosemary, and olive groves. The villages of Velo Grablje and Zastražišće are abandoned or barely inhabited — perfect photo opportunities and hiking destinations.
Farmers sell lavender sachets (2€), lavender oil (5–10€), and honey by the roadside. Especially beautiful: the Lavender Fields near Velo Grablje (8 km from Hvar Town, hike or quad tour).
Arrival and Further Travel Hvar
- Catamaran Split → Hvar Town: 1h, 12€ (Krilo, 2–3× daily). Fastest option directly to the center.
- Car ferry Split → Stari Grad: 2h, person 7€, car 42€ (Jadrolinija, 5–7× daily). Stari Grad is 20 km from Hvar Town (bus 5€, 30 min).
- Car ferry Drvenik → Sučuraj: 35 min. East Hvar. Cheap, but Sučuraj is 80 km from Hvar Town.
- Catamaran Hvar → Korčula: 1h, 12€ (Krilo). Ideal for island hopping southwards.
- Catamaran Hvar → Dubrovnik: Direct connection via Korčula (Krilo).
On the island: Bus Hvar–Stari Grad (6× daily), Hvar–Jelsa (4× daily). Scooter rental from 30€/day (perfect for the island!). Taxi boat to the Pakleni Islands: 5–10€.
Island Vis★★
The farthest inhabited Dalmatian island from the mainland was a military area until 1989 — tourism was not allowed here. The result: Vis is the most authentic and unspoiled of all Croatian islands. No hotel chains, no mass tourism, but first-class konobas, hidden beaches, and an atmosphere that no longer exists anywhere else.
★★★ Stiniva Beach
Voted Europe's most beautiful beach in 2016 by European Best Destinations. Hidden between 50m high cliffs, accessible only via a steep path (30 min) or by boat. The narrow opening to the sea almost makes the bay a closed lagoon.
Free. No service, no shade — bring water and sunscreen. Taxi boat from Komiža approx. 25€ return.
★★★ Blue Cave (Modra Špilja), Biševo
On the tiny neighboring island of Biševo: a sea cave where sunlight enters through an underwater opening, making the water glow in a surreal electric blue. The effect is strongest between 11 AM and 1 PM.
Day tours from Komiža: 35–50€ (boat + entrance). Closed in rough seas.
★★ Vis Town
Elegant harbor town on the northeast coast. Venetian and British architecture, excellent restaurants by the harbor, the Archaeological Museum with Greek and Roman finds.
★★ Komiža
Fishing village on the west coast, more charming and less chic than Vis Town. Starting point for the Blue Cave and Stiniva. The konobas here serve the best fish in the Adriatic — it doesn't get fresher.
Dining on Vis
Konoba Roki's · Plisko Polje — The legend. On a vineyard in the island's interior, only by reservation. Peka from their own wood oven, wine from their own production. One of the best restaurants in Croatia. €€ · ★★★
Konoba Bako · Komiža — Right by the harbor, fresh fish, local specialties. €€
Pojoda · Vis Town — Upscale Dalmatian cuisine in a 400-year-old garden. €€€
Arrival and Further Travel
Car ferry Split → Vis: 2h 20min (8€ per person, 45€ per car, Jadrolinija, 2× daily). Catamaran Split → Vis: 1h 25min (12€, Krilo). On the island: Bus Vis–Komiža (5× daily, 4€). Scooter rental from 25€/day.
Tipp
Vis is the perfect island for 3–4 nights. Be sure to reserve at Konoba Roki's on the first day (phone!). And take the scooter — the coastal road to Komiža is breathtaking.
Makarska Riviera
60 km of pebble beach at the foot of the Biokovo Mountains (1,762m) — one of Croatia's most spectacular coastal landscapes. The combination of mountains and sea in such a small space is unique. Popular with families and package tourists, accordingly crowded in high season.
★★ Brela
Award-winning pebble beach Punta Rata, regularly in the top 10 in Europe: pines, crystal-clear water, the iconic rock in the sea. Smaller and quieter than Makarska.
★ Makarska
Main town of the Riviera with a long promenade, old town, and nightlife. Shell museum (surprisingly good!), Franciscan monastery. Good infrastructure, many hotels and restaurants.
★★ Biokovo Skywalk
Since 2020: a horseshoe-shaped viewing platform at 1,228m altitude with a glass floor. View over the islands of Hvar and Brač. Only accessible with a ticket (access in Biokovo Nature Park).
Nature park entry: 8€, Skywalk: 12€. Access from 6 AM, often closed in the afternoon due to overcrowding.
Omiš
At the eastern end, where the Cetina Gorge meets the sea. Once a pirate stronghold with fortresses on the cliffs. Today a mecca for adventurers: canyoning (40€), rafting (30€), zipline (25€), climbing.
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