North Coast: Alcúdia & Pollença
Discover the North Coast
The north coast of Mallorca is the most family-friendly region of the island — and at the same time one of the most scenically diverse. Here, the last foothills of the Serra de Tramuntana meet the wide, flat bay of Alcúdia, and the result is spectacular: In the west, the dramatic cliffs of Cap de Formentor, in the east, the gentle dunes of Platja de Muro, in between two of the most charming towns in Mallorca.
The Bay of Alcúdia hosts the longest sandy beach on the island — 14 kilometers of fine, golden sand that slopes so gently into the sea that toddlers can safely splash here. No wonder German and British families have been coming back for decades. But the north coast is much more than just a bathing destination.
Alcúdia enchants with a fully preserved medieval city wall, Roman ruins, and one of the best weekly markets on the island. Pollença attracts with the famous 365 Calvari steps, a lively Sunday market, and the prestigious music festival in summer. And then there is the Cap de Formentor — that wild peninsula that points like a finger into the Mediterranean and, with its serpentine road, steep cliffs, and solitary lighthouse, counts among the most exciting places in Mallorca.
Additionally, the Parc Natural de S'Albufera is the largest wetland in the Balearic Islands — a paradise for birdwatchers with over 300 recorded species. The north coast is the perfect region for families with children, but also for cyclists, hikers, and anyone who wants to discover Mallorca beyond the Ballermann cliché.
Plan at least 4–5 days for the north coast. With a rental car, you can reach everything in a short time: Alcúdia–Pollença is only 10 minutes, Alcúdia–Cap de Formentor about 40 minutes.
Tipp
The north coast is ideal as a base for a Mallorca vacation: From Port d'Alcúdia, you can reach Palma in 50 minutes, the east coast coves in 40 minutes, and the Tramuntana villages in 30 minutes. Many families book here for two weeks and take day trips in all directions.
Alcúdia★★
Alcúdia is one of the oldest settlements in Mallorca — the Romans founded the city of Pollentia here in 123 BC, whose ruins can still be visited today. The medieval old town, completely surrounded by an imposing city wall from the 14th century, is one of the best-preserved on the Balearic Islands.
The contrast could hardly be greater: within the walls, narrow alleys with sandstone palaces, Gothic churches, and hidden courtyards full of bougainvillea. Outside the gates, the tourist Port d'Alcúdia with hotels, restaurants, and the endless beach. Both worlds are only 2 kilometers apart and complement each other perfectly.
The market on Tuesday and Sunday is one of the largest and most authentic in Mallorca. Hundreds of stalls spread along the city wall: leather goods, ceramics, Sobrasada (the Mallorcan paprika sausage), Ensaimadas (yeast pastries), olives, almonds, fresh fruit. Many locals also come to the Sunday market — it's less touristy than the one on Tuesday.
The Roman city of Pollentia is located directly on the road between Alcúdia and the port. Remains of the forum, a theater (the only one in the Balearic Islands!), and a residential area have been excavated. The small but exquisite Museu Monogràfic de Pollentia in the old town displays the finds. Pollentia was once the capital of the Roman Balearic Islands — a fascinating piece of history that many tourists completely overlook.
For the sporty, the ascent to the Ermita de la Victòria (7 km east) is worthwhile: a pilgrimage church at 200 meters altitude with a panoramic view over the entire bay. Mountain bikers love the trails on the La Victòria peninsula.
Old Town & City Wall
The city wall of Alcúdia is the best-preserved medieval fortification in Mallorca. Built in the 14th century under King Jaume II, it encloses the entire old town over a length of 1.5 kilometers. In some places, you can walk along the wall and enjoy the view over the rooftops of the old town and the bay — free of charge and accessible at any time.
Enter the old town through the Porta del Moll (also Porta de Xara), the main gate with its two massive towers from the 14th century. Inside, you'll find winding alleys, the parish church Sant Jaume (14th century, neo-Gothic facade, rose window), and the tiny chapel Santa Anna from the 13th century — one of the oldest buildings in Mallorca.
The old town is most beautiful in the morning before 10 am, when the alleys are still quiet and the light glows golden through the sandstone facades. In the evening from 7 pm, the squares turn into open-air restaurants: The Plaça Constitució with its cafés is the perfect place for a sundowner.
Tip: The small tourist office on Carrer Major has free old town maps with a marked walking tour (about 45 min.).
Tipp
On market days (Tuesday and Sunday), the old town is particularly lively, but also crowded. Those seeking tranquility should come on Wednesdays or Thursdays — then you almost have the alleys to yourself.
Port d'Alcúdia
Port d'Alcúdia is the tourist heart of the north coast and at the same time its largest holiday resort. The long promenade (Passeig Marítim) runs along the harbor, lined with restaurants, ice cream parlors, and souvenir shops. At the harbor itself, fishing boats lie next to excursion boats — from here, boat tours to Cap de Formentor, Cala Sant Vicenç, and along the north coast start.
The place is clearly geared towards families and package tourists: dozens of hotels in all categories, mini-golf courses, water parks (Hidropark with slides and wave pool, entry about 17€ for adults, 12€ for children), go-kart tracks, and a marina. It's not the most authentic Mallorca, but for families with small children, Port d'Alcúdia offers perfect infrastructure.
The beach promenade is ideal for evening walks — especially the section from the harbor towards the south, where the hotels stop and the dunes of S'Albufera begin. Cyclists use the well-developed bike path that runs parallel to the beach to Can Picafort (about 12 km).
At the harbor, there is a small fish market (Lonja del Pescado), where the fresh catch is sold in the morning. Fresh fish for self-cooking — dorado, sea bass, shrimp, squid.
Tipp
Bicycle rentals are available everywhere in Port d'Alcúdia (from 8€/day). The flat bike path along the bay is perfect for families. For road cyclists, the region is a dream — professional teams train here in spring.
Platja d'Alcúdia & Platja de Muro★★★
The longest sandy beach in Mallorca stretches over 14 kilometers along the entire Bay of Alcúdia — from Port d'Alcúdia in the north to Can Picafort in the south. Fine, golden sand, crystal-clear, turquoise water, and a seabed that slopes so gently that you sometimes have to wade out 50 meters before it gets deeper. This makes this beach the best family beach in Mallorca — perhaps even in the entire western Mediterranean.
The beach is divided into several sections with different characters:
Platja d'Alcúdia (North) — The busiest section directly in front of Port d'Alcúdia. Sun umbrellas and loungers (from 8€/set), beach bars (Chiringuitos), water sports rentals, pedal boats, banana boats. Hotels and restaurants directly behind. It's busy in summer, but the infrastructure is perfect for families.
Platja de Muro / Sector 1 (Es Braç) — The famous section featured in travel guides: Caribbean-like water over white sand, dunes with beach grass, pine forest as a natural shade provider. Less built-up, quieter, more natural. Parking available (5€/day in summer). Here is also the popular Chiringuito Sa Caseta des Capellans — an institution for paella and fresh fish right on the beach.
Platja de Muro / Sector 2-3 (towards Can Picafort) — Even quieter, partly almost deserted outside the main season. Directly adjacent to the S'Albufera nature park. Perfect for long beach walks. Less infrastructure, but more nature.
Es Comú de Muro — The most natural section: protected dune area, no lounger rentals, no beach bars. Behind the dunes begins the S'Albufera nature park. Also a popular nudist section (at the southern end). For nature lovers, the most beautiful part of the entire beach.
The water throughout the bay is exceptionally clear and warms up to 24–27°C in summer. Jellyfish are rare, but possible in high summer — the community then hoists red flags.
Tipp
Platja de Muro Sector 1 is the dream beach — but come before 10 am in July/August, otherwise, the best spots under the pines are taken. Outside the high season (May, June, September, October), the beach is wonderfully empty and the water is still warm enough for swimming.
Pollença★★
Pollença is the cultural heart of the north coast — a Mallorcan country town that has retained its character despite tourism. There are no hotel complexes, no souvenir miles, just winding alleys of honey-colored sandstone, one of the most beautiful main squares on the island, and a vibrant cultural scene.
The absolute landmark is the 365 steps of Calvari (Puig del Calvari): a long stone staircase lined with cypress trees leads from the center up to a small chapel on the Calvary hill. The ascent takes about 15 minutes and is rewarded with a breathtaking panoramic view over the town, the Tramuntana mountains, and the bay of Pollença. Especially beautiful at sunset when the mountains glow golden. On Good Friday, the impressive Davallament procession takes place here — the descent from the cross is reenacted on the steps.
The Plaça Major is the living room of the town: a wide square with plane trees, cafés under arcades, and the parish church Nostra Senyora dels Àngels. Every Sunday, one of the most popular weekly markets in Mallorca takes place here — more local and authentic than the one in Alcúdia. Locals buy vegetables, cheese, Sobrasada, and herbs here, while tourists browse for ceramics, linen fabrics, and olive wood products.
In summer, Pollença transforms into a cultural capital: The Festival de Pollença (July/August) has been bringing classical music, jazz, and world music to the medieval cloister of Sant Domingo since 1962 — a concert experience of the highest class under the open starry sky. Tickets from about 25€.
Not far from the town lies the Monastery Santuari del Puig de Maria (333 m): A short, steep ascent (30 min. from the parking lot) leads to a 14th-century monastery with a simple hostel and one of the best viewpoints in the region. In the small refectory, there is Pa amb Oli (bread with olive oil and tomatoes) and Mallorcan herbal liqueurs.
Tipp
The Sunday market in Pollença starts at 8 am — come early (before 10 am) to find parking and enjoy the market at its best. On Sundays, there is also a flea market on the outskirts (towards Sa Pobla). Pollença is an ideal starting point for hikes in the Tramuntana.
Port de Pollença
Port de Pollença (Puerto Pollensa) is the quieter, more elegant cousin of Port d'Alcúdia. Instead of mass tourism, there is a relaxed, almost British-influenced atmosphere — the town has been popular with English artists and writers since the 1930s (Agatha Christie wrote parts of a novel here).
The centerpiece is the beach promenade — one of the most beautiful in Mallorca. A wide walkway runs along the sea, lined with restaurants, cafés, and low-rise hotels. No high-rise buildings disturb the view of the dramatic mountain backdrop of the Tramuntana. The town beach is narrow but pleasant: sand and pebbles, clear water, view of the Formentor peninsula. At the northern end, the beach becomes quieter and more natural.
The absolute highlight is the Passeig dels Pins (Pine Walk) — a legendary, 1 km long avenue of gnarled, over 100-year-old Aleppo pines right by the water. The trees bend picturesquely over the path, the light filters through the needles. This walk, especially in the golden light of the evening sun, is one of the most romantic experiences in Mallorca. At the end of the Pine Walk lies a small pebble beach (Platja de l'Illot) with a view of the offshore island Illa de Formentor.
Water sports play a major role in Port de Pollença: The bay is one of the best sailing areas in Mallorca, with constant wind (Embat) in the afternoon. Sailing schools (from about 40€/hour), kayak rentals (from 15€/hour), stand-up paddling (from 12€/hour), and windsurfing are available. The Club Nàutic organizes international regattas.
Boat trips to the Cap de Formentor and Platja de Formentor start from the harbor — one of the best ways to experience the cliffs from the water and avoid beach traffic (from about 15€ return). Glass-bottom boats also travel along the coast.
In the evening, Port de Pollença is pleasantly lively without being hectic. The promenade fills with walkers, fresh fish is served in the restaurants, and anglers sit on the pier next to romantic couples. No Ballermann, just pure Mediterranean idyll.
Tipp
The Pine Walk is most beautiful at sunset — plan the walk for about 1 hour before sunset. Then have dinner at the harbor. In spring and autumn, Port de Pollença is particularly quiet and mild — perfect for road cyclists and hikers.
Cap de Formentor★★★
The Cap de Formentor is Mallorca's most dramatic location — a 20-kilometer-long, narrow peninsula that juts into the Mediterranean like a rugged finger. Steep cliffs drop 300 meters vertically into the deep blue sea, the serpentine road winds in hair-raising curves along precipices, and at the very end stands a solitary lighthouse at 210 meters high, as a guardian over the end of the world. This is undoubtedly one of the most spectacular places in the entire Mediterranean.
The journey begins in Port de Pollença and first leads to the Mirador de Mal Pas (also known as Mirador Es Colomer) — a viewpoint at 300 meters high, offering an unforgettable view: The jagged cliff El Colomer rises like a watchtower from the sea, the water shimmers in all shades of blue from turquoise to ink blue, and on clear days you can see as far as Menorca. There is a parking lot and a short walk to the viewpoint (5 min.).
Continue through dense pine forest and over hair-raising serpentine roads to the Platja de Formentor — one of the most beautiful beaches on the island. Fine, white sand, framed by pines that reach down to the water, and crystal-clear water in unreal turquoise tones. The legendary Hotel Formentor (opened in 1929, guests like Winston Churchill, Grace Kelly, Charlie Chaplin) towers over the beach and gives the place a touch of glamour from times past.
The last section to the lighthouse (Far de Formentor) is the wildest: The road winds through barren, wind-swept landscapes to the farthest point of the peninsula. The lighthouse (built in 1863) stands on a cliff 210 meters above the sea. The view at sunset — when the cliffs glow golden, the sea glows, and the sun slowly sinks into the water — is the best sunset spot on Mallorca. Plan enough time for the return trip in the dark after sunset (serpentines without street lighting!).
The lighthouse itself is not accessible, but the area around it is freely accessible. There is a small bar with drinks and snacks (season-dependent). The rocky coast around the lighthouse is wild and photogenic — but be careful at the unfenced edges!
Tipp
The best time of day for Cap de Formentor: Morning (8–10 am) for the Mirador and the beach when it's still empty. Come to the lighthouse for sunset. In the off-season (October–May), you can drive the entire route yourself — it's magically quiet then. Cyclists love the route in spring (note: very steep, road bike level!).
Achtung
In summer (June 15 – September 15), access to the lighthouse is CLOSED to private vehicles from the Platja de Formentor junction. You must take the shuttle bus from Port de Pollença (about 3€, regularly). You can still drive to the beach and the Mirador yourself. Outside the closure period, the road becomes very narrow — oncoming traffic with tour buses requires nerves. Never drive too fast, there are tight curves without guardrails!
S'Albufera Nature Park
The Parc Natural de S'Albufera is the largest wetland in the Balearic Islands — and one of the most important bird sanctuaries in the western Mediterranean. Over 1,700 hectares of marshes, lagoons, reed beds, canals, and wet meadows stretch between Platja de Muro and Sa Pobla. A quiet, green counterpoint to the beach hustle and bustle just a few hundred meters away.
Over 300 bird species have been recorded here — from the rare marbled teal to flamingos, little egrets, and ospreys, to thousands of migratory birds that rest here in spring and autumn. Four marked hiking trails (1.5–11 km) lead through the park, past observation hides from which you can watch the birds undisturbed. The shortest trail (Itinerari 1, about 1.5 km) is also suitable for strollers.
Entry is free, but you must register at the reception center (Centre de Recepció, at the Sa Roca bridge) and receive a free parking permit. The reception center offers a small exhibition about the ecosystem, binocular rentals, and current information on bird sightings.
Besides birds, S'Albufera also hosts a rich flora: orchids (over 30 species in spring!), endemic plants, and dense reed forests. Turtles (the European pond turtle) and various dragonfly species also live here.
The park is particularly beautiful in spring (March–May) when migratory birds pass through, orchids bloom, and the light is soft. In high summer, it can be hot and mosquito-rich — be sure to bring mosquito repellent! In autumn (September–November), migratory birds return, and flamingos are particularly common then.
Cyclists love the park: A flat bike path runs from Platja de Muro along the park's edge to Sa Pobla (about 8 km). The combination of a beach day and a nature park bike tour is a perfect family day.
Tipp
Come early in the morning (park opens at 9 am, April–September; 9 am, October–March) — that's when the birds are most active and the light is the most beautiful. Bring binoculars and sun protection. The park closes at 6 pm (summer) or 5 pm (winter). Dogs are not allowed.
Dining on the North Coast
The north coast offers a surprisingly good restaurant scene — from down-to-earth fish restaurants at the harbor to authentic Mallorcan inns to upscale kitchens with sea views. The region is less experimental than Palma, but more honest and family-friendly.
€ Budget (Main course under 14€)
Ca'n Costa · Carrer d'en Serra 58, Pollença
Honest Mallorcan cuisine for generations. Tumbet (vegetable casserole), Frit Mallorquí (fried offal with vegetables — sounds strange, tastes fantastic), oven-baked lamb shoulder. Tiny family business, only a few tables.
8–14€ · Tue–Sat 12–3 & 7–10 pm
Bodega d'es Port · Passeig Saralegui 2, Port de Pollença
Popular tapas bar on the promenade. Patatas Bravas, Pimientos de Padrón, grilled squid, local wines. Ideal for a quick, cheap snack before the beach walk.
6–12€ · Daily 11 am–11 pm
Sa Caseta des Capellans · Platja de Muro (right on the beach)
Legendary chiringuito right in the sand. Paella (from 14€ p.p., order for 2 people!), grilled sardines, fresh salads, Sangría. Feet in the sand, sea view — a beach day doesn't get any better. Cash only!
10–18€ · Daily 10 am–6 pm (only summer season April–October)
€€ Mid-range (Main course 14–25€)
Stay Restaurant · Moll Vell s/n, Port de Pollença
Modern restaurant right at the harbor with creative Mediterranean cuisine. Fresh fish of the day, seafood risotto, excellent desserts. Terrace with views of the boats and mountains.
14–26€ · Daily 12–11 pm · ★★
Restaurant Alcúdia · Carrer des Moll 2, Alcúdia Old Town
In a historic townhouse with a courtyard. Mallorcan classics at a high level: suckling pig (Lechona), lamb shank, Arròs Brut (Mallorcan rice soup). Good local wine list.
16–24€ · Wed–Mon 12:30–3 & 7–10:30 pm · ★★
Laguna Restaurant · Passeig de la Platja, Port d'Alcúdia
Family-friendly restaurant on the beach with international and Mallorcan cuisine. Large portions, children's menu, high chairs. Especially good: the fish platter for two (about 38€) and the paella.
12–22€ · Daily 10 am–11 pm
€€€ High-end (Main course 25€+)
Argos Restaurant · Carretera Formentor km 3.5, Port de Pollença
Elegant restaurant with a panoramic terrace and views over the bay. Mediterranean fusion cuisine at a high level: tuna tataki, lamb loin with herb crust, lemon sorbet with Hierbas. Perfect for a special evening.
28–42€ · Tue–Sat 7–11 pm · ★★★ · Reservation recommended
Restaurant 365 · Hotel & Spa Son Brull, Ctra. Pollença-Lluc km 49.8
In the elegant country hotel Son Brull (former monastery). Tasting menu with Mallorcan products at fine dining level: black pork, Camaiot sausage, Tramuntana lamb, citrus fruits from the hotel's own garden. Michelin recommendation.
45–75€ (menu) · Wed–Sun 7:30–10 pm · ★★★ · Reservation required
Cafés & Ice Cream
Café Espanyol · Plaça Major, Pollença — Coffee and Ensaimada on Pollença's most beautiful square. A must on Sundays for the market. Café con Leche 2.20€.
Gelateria Art · Carrer Major, Alcúdia — Artisan ice cream with Mallorcan flavors: almond ice cream, Hierbas, lemon. Scoop 2.50€.
Cappuccino Grand Café · Passeig Marítim, Port de Pollença — Part of the well-known Mallorcan chain. Good coffee, cakes, breakfast. Sea view terrace.
Tipp
For paella on the north coast: Always order for at least 2 people (this is customary in Mallorca) and plan for a 20–30 minute wait — freshly prepared, not reheated! The best paella in the region is on the beach (Sa Caseta des Capellans) or at the Stay Restaurant at the harbor.
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