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Regionen · Kapitel 6

East Coast

Mallorca Reiseführer

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RegionenKapitel 6: East Coast
Regionen · Kapitel 6

East Coast

Hidden coves (Calas) with turquoise waters, spectacular stalactite caves, authentic harbor towns, and a landscape that has largely escaped mass tourism. The east coast of Mallorca is a mosaic of small paradises — each Cala has its own character, and behind the next cliff, another surprise awaits.

Discover the East Coast

The east coast of Mallorca is the counterpart to the tourist-developed southwest: Instead of long beaches and large hotel complexes, there are dozens of small, often hidden coves (Calas) here, cutting into the rocky coast like fjords. The water glows in unreal turquoise and emerald tones, the cliffs are covered with pines, and in many places, you feel like you're in a postcard from the 1960s.

The east coast stretches from Cala Ratjada in the north through Porto Cristo with the world-famous Dragon Caves down to Cala Mondragó and Cala Figuera in the south — a good 80 kilometers of coastline with more than 30 different Calas, each with its own character.

Behind the coast lies a rural, gently hilly landscape with almond trees, prickly pear cacti, and old fincas. The town of Artà with its mountain fortress is one of the most authentic places on the island. Felanitx and Manacor (the second-largest city in Mallorca, home of Rafael Nadal and the Majorica pearl factory) offer insights into everyday life beyond tourism.

The east coast is ideal for explorers and nature lovers: Those willing to hike a few kilometers or forego comfort will be rewarded with secluded dream beaches. But families also find much here — the resorts of Cala Millor and Sa Coma offer classic beach holidays with good infrastructure.

Plan at least 5–7 days for the east coast. A rental car is indispensable here — many of the most beautiful Calas are off the main roads and not accessible without a car.

Tipp

The most beautiful Calas on the east coast are accessible by car, but parking spaces fill up quickly in summer (often by 10 am). Come early or use lunchtime when many return for meals. For some Calas (e.g., Cala Varques), you have to walk 20–30 minutes — don't forget sturdy shoes and water!

Cala Ratjada & Capdepera★★

Cala Ratjada (Cala Rajada) is the northernmost holiday resort on the east coast — a former fishing village that has developed into a lively but not overcrowded vacation spot. The mix of harbor atmosphere, good nightlife, and one of the best beaches in Mallorca nearby makes Cala Ratjada particularly popular with younger vacationers and families.

The harbor is the heart of the place: fishing boats next to yachts, restaurants along the pier, and in summer ferry connections to Menorca (Illes Balears). From the harbor, a beautiful coastal path (about 20 min) leads to Cala Agulla — one of the most beautiful beaches on the island.

The Cala Agulla is a dream: 500 meters of fine, light sand, framed by wooded hills and fragrant pines, crystal-clear water in all shades of blue. The beach is located in a nature reserve (Àrea Natural d'Especial Interès), so there are no hotel buildings directly on the beach — just natural beauty. Sunshades and loungers can be rented (about 8€/set), there is a beach bar and lifeguards in summer. Perfect for families: gently sloping, clean water, Blue Flag.

Next door is the smaller Cala Mesquida — wilder, with dunes and less developed. Also a nature reserve, partly military area. The beach is wider and windier than Cala Agulla, but often emptier.

Just 3 kilometers inland, the castle of Capdepera (Castell de Capdepera) towers — the best-preserved fortress in Mallorca. The massive complex from the 14th century crowns a hill above the town of the same name and offers a 360-degree panoramic view over the east coast, the sea to Menorca, and the Tramuntana mountains. The castle is walkable, you can walk along the battlements and climb the watchtower. Inside is the Gothic chapel Nostra Senyora de l'Esperança.

Capdepera itself is a charming town with a Wednesday market, small cafes, and a tradition of basket weaving (Llatra) — a Mallorcan craft that has been practiced here for centuries. On the market and in small shops, you can find hand-woven baskets, hats, and bags made from palm leaves.

Tipp

The castle of Capdepera is open daily in summer from 9 am to 8 pm (winter until 5 pm), entry 3€. Come at sunset — then the castle glows golden and the view of the sea is magical. For Cala Agulla in summer: Parking costs 5€/day, arrive before 10 am for a good spot.

Artà★★

Artà is one of the most authentic towns in Mallorca — a place barely touched by tourism, preserving its rural, Mallorcan character completely. The town of 7,500 inhabitants is situated on a hill in the northeast of the island, crowned by the fortified Santuari de Sant Salvador, a pilgrimage church and fortress from the 14th century, accessible from the center via a monumental staircase (180 steps).

The climb to the Santuari is a must: The wide, cypress-lined staircase passes by the parish church Transfiguració del Senyor and leads up to the fortress. Once at the top, a panorama over the rooftops of the old town, the hills of the hinterland, and on clear days, the north coast unfolds. The pilgrimage church itself (originating from the 13th century, expanded several times) houses a revered statue of Mary and an atmospheric cloister.

In the old town, there are winding alleys, traditional craft businesses (ceramics, basket weaving, leather goods), and some of the best small restaurants in the region. The Tuesday market on the Plaça del Conqueridor is small but fine — locals shop here, not tourists.

Just 2 kilometers outside the town lies the settlement of Ses Païsses — a prehistoric Talaiot settlement from the Bronze Age (around 1000 BC), one of Mallorca's most important archaeological sites. The massive Cyclopean wall (up to 3.5 m high, built from huge stone blocks without mortar) encloses a village with a central watchtower (Talaiot), dwellings, and a meeting room. The place is atmospheric — ancient holm oaks overgrow the ruins, and you are often completely alone here.

Ses Païsses: Entry 4€, Mon–Sat 10 am–5 pm (summer until 6 pm). Well signposted from Artà towards Cala Torta.

Artà is also an excellent starting point for hikes: The Llevant Peninsula (Parc Natural de la Península de Llevant) offers marked hiking trails through untouched coastal landscapes with secluded coves only accessible on foot — such as the wild Cala Torta or the remote S'Arenalet des Verger.

Tipp

Artà is the perfect half-day trip: Visit the market in the morning (Tuesdays), have coffee on the Plaça, climb to the Santuari, then Ses Païsses. In the afternoon, head to Cala Torta for a swim (20 min drive, unpaved road, no sunbed rental — but wild and beautiful).

Coves del Drac (Dragon Caves)★★★

Ctra. Coves s/n, 07680 Porto Cristo
Täglich ab 10 Uhr, letzte Führung 17 Uhr. Nov–März: eingeschränkte Zeiten, nur 10:30, 12, 14, 15:30 Uhr
17€ (Erwachsene), 10€ (Kinder 3–12), unter 3 frei. Online-Tickets empfohlen.

The Coves del Drac (Dragon Caves) near Porto Cristo are Mallorca's most visited attraction — and one of the most spectacular stalactite caves in Europe. Stretching over 1,200 meters, it is an underground labyrinth of vast chambers, bizarre stalactites and stalagmites, and the highlight: the Llac Martel (Martel Lake), one of the largest underground lakes in the world (177 m long, 40 m wide, up to 12 m deep).

The guided tour (about 50 minutes) leads through four interconnected chambers: the Sala Negra (Black Hall), the Sala Blanca (White Hall), the Sala Lluís Salvador (named after the Austrian archduke who made Mallorca famous), and the large Sala dels Francesos. The lighting is dramatically staged — colored spots highlight the bizarre limestone formations, some resembling organ pipes, curtains, towers, or fantasy creatures.

The absolute highlight comes at the end: On the shore of the Llac Martel, visitors take a seat on a stone tribune, the lights go out, and from the darkness of the lake, illuminated rowing boats glide in, on which musicians play a short classical concert — Chopin, Albéniz, Barcarole. The acoustics are surreal, the play of light on the mirror-smooth water magical. This concert has been held since 1935 and remains an unforgettable experience, even though the performance lasts only about 10 minutes.

After the concert, you can optionally take a short boat ride across the lake (included in the entrance fee). The exit leads through another spectacular chamber with a view of the lake from above.

Near the Dragon Caves are also the Coves dels Hams (Hook Caves) — smaller, less visited, and with their own underground lake. The geological formations here are delicate and colorful (the name comes from hook-shaped stalactites). A good alternative or addition, especially if the Dragon Caves are crowded. Entry about 21€, similar concept with a light show.

Tipp

Combine a visit to the Dragon Caves with Porto Cristo: Visit the cave in the morning (first tour at 10 am), then have lunch at the harbor of Porto Cristo and visit the Cala Mandia or Cala Anguila beach in the afternoon. This makes for a perfect day trip.

Achtung

The Dragon Caves are extremely popular — in the peak summer months (July/August), queues of 1–2 hours form! Be sure to buy tickets online in advance at cuevasdeldrach.com (same price, but guaranteed time slot). Come for the first tour (10 am) or the last (5 pm) — it's busiest at midday. The cave maintains a constant 18°C — bring a light jacket!

The Most Beautiful Calas

The Calas of the east coast are what Mallorca should actually be famous for: small, fjord-like coves that cut deep into the rocky coast, framed by pines and cliffs, with water in surreal beautiful turquoise and emerald tones. Each Cala has its own character — from the developed family bay to the wild, only accessible by foot secret cove. Here are the highlights:

Cala Mondragó (Parc Natural)★★★

The Cala Mondragó is perhaps the most perfect bay in Mallorca — and has been protected as a nature park since 1992 (Parc Natural de Mondragó, 785 hectares). Actually, there are two beaches: the larger S'Amarador and the smaller, more intimate Ses Fonts de n'Alis, connected by a short cliff path.

S'Amarador is a wide sandy beach in a deep, pine-forested bay. The water is so clear that you can see the fish on the bottom from the cliff edge. Behind it stretch dunes and a wetland with birds. Ses Fonts de n'Alis is smaller and more sheltered — perfect for families with small children.

The nature park offers several marked hiking trails (1–5 km) through pine forest, scrubland, and along the cliffs. Bird watchers will find ospreys, Eleonora's falcons, and cormorants here. Despite the nature park, there are sunbed rentals (about 8€), a small bar, and toilets on the beach.

Parking: 5€/day (quickly full in summer, from 10 am). 6 km from Santanyí. The park is freely accessible.

Cala Varques

Cala Varques is Mallorca's most famous "secret beach" — a stunningly beautiful bay only accessible on foot. From the parking lot (on an unpaved country road between Porto Cristo and Cales de Mallorca), it takes about 20–25 minutes to walk over a rocky path through scrubland and pine forest before the bay suddenly opens up: a crescent-shaped bay with fine sand, turquoise water, and rocky cliffs inviting cliff jumping.

Cala Varques feels like a pirate bay: no loungers, no bar, no infrastructure — just pure nature. In the cliffs, there are several caves (some with freshwater lakes inside!) that attract climbers and adventurers. The atmosphere is relaxed to alternative — you are more likely to meet backpackers and locals than package tourists here.

Be sure to bring enough water, sun protection, and food — there is nothing to buy on site! Also, sturdy footwear for the path is important (no flip-flops). The beach has no lifeguard.

Parking: On the roadside (free, but limited). In summer, often no space after 11 am. Parking coordinates: approx. 39.5109, 3.3529.

Tipp

Come during the week and before 10 am — then Cala Varques is almost deserted. On weekends in high summer, it can become surprisingly crowded. The caves to the left of the bay are fascinating but only accessible with a flashlight and at your own risk.

Cala Llombards

Cala Llombards is a small, idyllic bay south of Santanyí — less known than its famous neighbors, but no less beautiful. The bay cuts like a narrow fjord deep into the sandstone cliffs, the water shimmers turquoise-emerald, and the atmosphere is calm and relaxed.

The beach is small (about 50 m wide), with fine sand and some rocks at the edge, inviting snorkeling. The cliffs offer natural shade in the afternoon (left side). There is a small kiosk with drinks and ice cream, but no loungers — lay a towel on the sand and enjoy.

Above the bay lies the village of Es Llombards with a tiny village center and a restaurant. Just 2 km further is the famous rock arch Es Pontàs — a natural stone arch in the sea, one of the most photographed spots in Mallorca and world-famous among deep-water solo climbers.

Parking: directly above the bay, free. Come early in summer! 5 km from Santanyí.

Cala Figuera

Cala Figuera is not a beach, but a fishing village — and one of the most photogenic in all of Mallorca. The bay cuts like a Y deep into the land, with white houses with green shutters climbing the cliffs on both sides, and the colorful Llaüts (Mallorcan fishing boats) moored at the boat houses on the water.

There is no beach and no hotels here — Cala Figuera still lives from fishing. In the morning around 5–6 am, the fishermen go out, returning around 5 pm. Then is the best time to stand on the quay and watch as the catch is sorted — a spectacle that has been the same for generations.

Along the bay, there are some excellent fish restaurants that buy directly from the boat: fresh fish, seafood, paella. Accompanied by a glass of white wine with a view of the boats — this is Mallorca at its best.

At the entrance to the village, a coastal hiking trail begins (about 3 km, easy) towards Cala Santanyí — along the cliffs with spectacular views of the open sea.

Tipp

Cala Figuera is not a bathing resort — those who want to swim should head to the nearby Cala Santanyí (3 km) or Cala Llombards (8 km). But for a lunch with fresh fish, Cala Figuera is unbeatable. Restaurant tip: Bon Bar at the harbor (grilled squid, about 14€).

Cala s'Amarador

Cala s'Amarador is part of the Mondragó nature park and is the larger of the two beaches in the park. A wide, white sandy beach in a deep bay, surrounded by low cliffs and pine forests. The water is Caribbean clear — snorkeling at the edge of the bay is excellent (seagrass meadows with fish, starfish, sometimes octopuses).

The bay is open to the south, which means: sun all day, but also waves with a south wind. Behind the beach stretches a small wetland (Ses Fonts de n'Alis), which can be crossed via a wooden walkway — a mini-adventure for children. Sunbed rental (about 8€/day) and a small beach bar are available in summer.

From the beach, a beautiful cliff path (about 15 min) leads to the neighboring bay Ses Fonts de n'Alis and further to the viewpoint Sa Font de n'Alis, overlooking the entire Mondragó valley. This walk is also easily doable with children.

Access: via the Mondragó parking lot (5€/day) or on foot from Cala d'Or (about 30 min coastal path). Nature park freely accessible.

Porto Cristo & Porto Colom

The two Portos of the east coast are authentic harbor towns that have preserved their Mallorcan soul — quiet alternatives to the resorts, with real village life, fishing boats, and restaurants where locals sit alongside tourists.

Porto Cristo

Porto Cristo is known to most as the access point to the Dragon Caves — but the town deserves more than a quick drive-through stop. The natural harbor is one of the most beautiful on the east coast: a deep, sheltered bay lined with restaurants, cafes, and small shops. At the harbor, there is a small sandy beach (Platja de Porto Cristo) — not the most beautiful on the island, but practical and family-friendly.

Above the harbor stretches the town with its tranquil center: parish church, weekly market (Sundays), a few good restaurants. The Passeig de la Sirena (promenade) with the mermaid statue is the meeting point in the evening. For children, the Aquarium de Mallorca (entry about 14€, sharks, rays, sea turtles) right next to the Dragon Caves is worth a visit.

Porto Cristo is also the hometown of Rafael Nadal — his tennis center Rafa Nadal Academy is located on the outskirts (visits possible, sports-interested families can also book tennis courses there).

Porto Colom

Porto Colom (Portocolom) is located 15 km south and is the quietest and most authentic harbor town on the east coast. Legend has it that Christopher Columbus was born here — historically unproven, but the name Porto Colom suggests it. The natural harbor is deep and sheltered, surrounded by pastel-colored fishermen's houses and the colorful boat houses (Escars) on the southwest shore.

There is no notable beach in the town itself, but the beautiful Cala Marçal (10 min walk) — a wide sandy beach with shallow water, sunbed rental, and restaurants. Ideal for families.

What makes Porto Colom special is the atmosphere: Here, locals sit on the pier in the evening, children play on the harbor promenade, fishermen mend their nets, and in the restaurants, what was caught in the morning is served. No hustle and bustle, no tourist shops — just Mallorca as it once was.

The old lighthouse (Faro de Portocolom, 1861) at the harbor entrance is a nice walk (about 20 min from the harbor) with views over the entire bay and the coast.

Tipp

Porto Colom is the perfect place for a quiet evening: Evening sun at the harbor (west side, sunset!), then fresh fish at the HPC restaurant (at the harbor, main course 16–28€). On Sundays, Porto Colom has a small market with local products.

Cala Millor & Sa Coma

Cala Millor and the neighboring Sa Coma are the classic holiday resorts of the east coast — here large hotels, apartment complexes, restaurants with German menus, and perfect tourist infrastructure dominate. Not the most authentic Mallorca, but a solid choice for families and beach lovers who appreciate comfort and convenience.

The beach of Cala Millor is impressive: almost 2 kilometers of fine, white sand, lined with a wide beach promenade. Sunshades and loungers (about 8–10€/set), lifeguards, beach bars, pedal boats, banana boats — everything is available. The water is clear but drops off faster than in the Bay of Alcúdia, making it more pleasant for older children and adults. The promenade seamlessly transitions into the neighboring Cala Bona — a former fishing village with a small harbor and a more relaxed atmosphere.

Sa Coma lies south of Cala Millor and offers its own 800 m long sandy beach in a wide bay. Behind it stretches the Punta de n'Amer — an undeveloped headland with an old watchtower (17th century) and hiking trails through pine forest and scrubland. A surprisingly wild natural spot right next to the tourist area. On the Punta de n'Amer, there is a small nature park with donkeys, goats, and peacocks — children love it.

The highlight of the region for families is the Safari Zoo Mallorca (officially: Safari Zoo, near Sa Coma): A safari park that you can drive through with your own car or a train. Giraffes, rhinos, zebras, antelopes, monkeys, and more in spacious enclosures. Plus a pedestrian area with a reptile house, parrot show, and mini zoo. Children between 3 and 10 years are thrilled.

Safari Zoo: Entry about 22€ (adults), 14€ (children 3–12), under 3 free. Daily 9:30 am–5 pm (summer until 6 pm). Safari tour with own car or train included. On the Carretera Ma-4023 between Sa Coma and Porto Cristo.

In the evening, Cala Millor and Sa Coma offer a lively infrastructure: The beach promenade in Cala Millor is ideal for an evening stroll (ice cream parlors, souvenir shops, street performers), and there are numerous bars and clubs for nightlife. More family-friendly is the promenade of Cala Bona — quieter, with restaurants at the small harbor.

Tipp

The Punta de n'Amer between Cala Millor and Sa Coma is a rewarding walk (about 45 min round trip to the tower). Best in the morning or evening. The tower can be climbed (2€) and offers a fantastic panoramic view. For the Safari Zoo: Come in the morning when the animals are more active, and bring enough water.

Dining on the East Coast

The east coast offers honest, down-to-earth cuisine — less trendy than Palma, but more authentic. Fish restaurants in harbor towns, traditional Cellers (wine cellar restaurants) inland, and surprisingly good eateries in unassuming villages. Here, you still eat what was caught in the morning or harvested from the field.

€ Budget (Main course under 14€)

Ses Rotges · Carrer Rafael Blanes 21, Cala Ratjada
Popular spot with Mallorcan classics. Pa amb Oli in many variations (the Mallorcan national dish: rustic bread with olive oil, tomato, Serrano or cheese), Tumbet, Tapas. Nice courtyard.
7–14€ · Wed–Mon 12–10 pm

Bar Es Tamarells · Plaça del Conqueridor, Artà
Simple village bar on the main square. Daily menu (Menú del Día) for 12–14€ including water and bread: soup or salad, main course (often lamb, fish, or Tumbet), dessert. This is how the locals eat.
8–14€ · Mon–Sat 8 am–10 pm

Chiringuito Cala Mondragó · On the beach Ses Fonts de n'Alis
Simple beach bar in the Mondragó nature park. Bocadillos, Empanadas, Ensaimadas, fresh juices. Affordable for a beach day. Cash only!
5–10€ · Daily 10 am–6 pm (only season April–October)

€€ Mid-range (Main course 14–25€)

Es Celler · Carrer de l'Hospital 46, Petra (30 min from the east coast)
Traditional Celler (wine cellar restaurant) in a vaulted cellar from the 17th century. Mallorcan home cooking at its best: Lechona (suckling pig), Frit Mallorquí, Arròs Brut. Huge portions, fair prices. An institution.
12–20€ · Tue–Sun 12–3:30 pm & 7–10:30 pm · ★★

Sa Llotja · Carrer del Navegants 15, Cala Figuera
One of the best fish restaurants on the east coast, right at the harbor of the fishing village. The fish comes from the boats you can see from the table. Grilled dorado, Bullit de Peix (Mallorcan fish stew), Caldereta de Langosta (lobster stew — specialty, about 35€ p.p., order 24h in advance!).
16–28€ · Tue–Sun 12:30–3:30 pm & 7–10:30 pm · ★★★ · Reservation!

Roland · Carrer Rafal del Pont 4, Porto Cristo
A decades-old institution at the harbor of Porto Cristo. Fresh fish, paella, seafood platter for two (about 45€). Terrace with harbor view. Classic, reliable, good.
14–26€ · Daily 12–11 pm · ★★

€€€ High-end (Main course 25€+)

Es Racó d'es Teix · Carrer Vinya Vella 6, Artà
High-end Mallorcan cuisine in a restored townhouse. Seasonal menus with local products: lamb from the Tramuntana, fish from Porto Cristo, vegetables from surrounding fincas. Elegant courtyard, excellent wine list with Mallorcan wines.
30–50€ · Wed–Mon 7:30–10:30 pm · ★★★ · Reservation recommended

Cafés & Sweets

Café Parisien · Carrer Ciutat 18, Artà — Charming café in an old townhouse. Coffee, homemade cakes, breakfast. Quiet terrace in the backyard. Café con Leche 2.30€.

Pastelería Maicas · Carrer Major, Manacor — The best bakery in the region since 1940. Ensaimadas, Cocarrois (pastries with vegetables), Robiols (apricot pastries). A must-try!

Gelateria Porto Cristo · Passeig de la Sirena, Porto Cristo — Artisan ice cream right at the harbor. Almond and lemon are the hits. Scoop 2.50€.

Tipp

For the best fresh fish, head to Cala Figuera: Here, restaurants buy directly from the boat. Always reserve in advance in summer — especially Sa Llotja and the harbor restaurants are full in the evenings. If you want to try authentic Mallorcan cuisine, look for a Celler: These traditional wine cellar restaurants (Es Celler in Petra is legendary) serve hearty home-cooked meals in atmospheric vaults.

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