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Regionen · Kapitel 3

Palma de Mallorca

Mallorca Reiseführer

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RegionenKapitel 3: Palma de Mallorca
Regionen · Kapitel 3

Palma de Mallorca

Palma deserves at least 2–3 full days. The capital of the Balearic Islands is much more than a stopover for cruise ships: a vibrant Mediterranean metropolis that combines Gothic architecture with trendy neighborhoods, blends Arab heritage with contemporary art, and has long played in the culinary Champions League. Those who use Palma only as a transit station to the beach hotel miss the best of Mallorca.

Discovering Palma

Palma is a city of districts — each with its own character. The compact size (around 420,000 inhabitants) makes it wonderfully walkable: from hip Santa Catalina to medieval Casco Antiguo takes less than 15 minutes. Here's an overview of the main districts to help you find your way quickly.

Old Town (Casco Antiguo)

The historic heart of Palma is a labyrinth of narrow streets, Gothic churches, and stately city palaces (Palacios). At every turn, you encounter the famous patios — the courtyards of the noble houses with their sweeping staircases, columns, and fountains. Many are open to the public during the day (just peek through the open arches). The old town stretches from Paseo del Borne in the west to Plaça de la Porta del Camp in the east, bounded in the south by the cathedral and Parc de la Mar.

Highlight streets: Carrer de Sant Miquel (main shopping street), Carrer del Sindicat (lively, young scene), Carrer de Can Morey (most beautiful patios). The old town is car-free and most beautiful in the early morning when the streets are in the shade and the cafés set out their chairs.

Santa Catalina

The hippest district in Palma — a former fishing district, now a hotspot for foodies, creatives, and expats. Around the Mercat de Santa Catalina (market hall), tapas bars, concept stores, and wine bars line up. The low, brightly painted houses give the district an almost village-like charm, and the atmosphere is noticeably more relaxed and younger than in the old town.

In the evening, Santa Catalina becomes the nightlife district: The Carrer de Fàbrica and Carrer de Sant Magí are lined with restaurants and cocktail bars. This is where cosmopolitan Palma meets — Mallorcans next to Scandinavian residents, German long-term vacationers next to British foodies.

La Lonja

The area around the Gothic sea trade exchange La Llotja (15th century) is Palma's nightlife center. Tranquil during the day with galleries and antique shops, La Lonja transforms into a lively bar scene in the evening. The Carrer d'Apuntadors is the ultimate nightlife street — cocktail bars, gin-tonics, and live music until the early morning hours. Tip: The Gothic Llotja itself is accessible during free exhibitions and is an architectural masterpiece.

Paseo Marítimo

The waterfront promenade stretches over 4.5 km from the harbor to the Portixol district. Palma shows its maritime side here: marina, luxury hotels, restaurants with sea views. The Paseo Marítimo is perfect for jogging, cycling, or strolling — especially at sunset, when the cathedral glows in golden light. In recent years, the section by the harbor has been redesigned: wider walkways, more greenery, less car noise.

Es Molinar & Portixol

East of the city center lie the former fishing villages of Es Molinar and Portixol, which have become Palma's up-and-coming neighborhoods. Colorful boathouses, small waterfront cafés, and a growing restaurant scene make the area a hidden gem for those seeking the "real" Palma. Especially the Portixol harbor promenade with its fish restaurants is a dream — much quieter and cheaper than the old town.

Son Espanyolet

A quiet residential area north of the center, slowly developing into the new trendy district. Mainly locals live here, rents are (still) affordable, and there are more and more independent cafés, bakeries, and small galleries. The Plaça del Pont is the unofficial meeting point. Son Espanyolet is ideal for those looking for a vacation rental in an authentic setting — central, but without tourist crowds.

Cathedral La Seu★★★

Plaça de la Seu, s/n, 07001 Palma
Mo–Fr 10–17:15 Uhr (April–Okt.), Mo–Fr 10–15:15 Uhr (Nov.–März), Sa 10–14:15 Uhr. So nur Gottesdienst.
Erwachsene 9 €, Kinder (8–14) 4 €, unter 8 frei. Terrassentour ab 12 €.

The Cathedral of Palma — La Seu — is one of the most impressive Gothic structures in the entire Mediterranean and Mallorca's undisputed landmark. It towers over a former Moorish fortress directly above the sea, and the first sight — whether from the plane, the harbor, or Parc de la Mar — is simply overwhelming.

Construction began in 1229 under King Jaume I after the reconquest of Mallorca from the Moors and lasted almost 400 years. The result: a 121-meter-long, 55-meter-wide church with one of the largest Gothic rose windows in the world (diameter: 13.8 m, 1,236 colored glass pieces). The window is called "the eye of the Gothic" (L'Ull del Gòtic).

Gaudí's Touch: At the beginning of the 20th century, none other than Antoni Gaudí was commissioned to redesign the interior. He worked in the cathedral from 1904 to 1914 and left his unmistakable mark: the wrought-iron canopy over the main altar with chandelier (35 lamps, surrounded by ears of wheat and grapes), the redesign of the choir stalls, and an innovative use of light. Gaudí relocated the choir, which blocked the view of the altar, creating the current open space impression.

Miquel Barceló's Chapel: In 2007, the Mallorcan artist Miquel Barceló designed the Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament — a modern ceramic work depicting the miracle of the loaves and fishes. Controversial but fascinating: the entire wall seems to live organically.

Rooftop Terrace: An absolute insider tip is the terrace tour (Visita a les Terrasses). In a guided tour, you climb to the roof of the cathedral and have a 360° panoramic view over Palma, the harbor, and the sea. The tour must be booked separately (from 12 €, book online in advance!) and is limited to a few participants.

Tipp

At 8 a.m., shortly after opening, the cathedral is almost empty. In February and November, the so-called "Festival of Light" (Festa de la Llum) takes place: The rising sun shines exactly through the large rose window and projects a second rose of light on the opposite wall — a magical moment.

Almudaina Palace★★

Carrer del Palau Reial, s/n, 07001 Palma
Di–So 10–18 Uhr (April–Sept.), Di–So 10–17 Uhr (Okt.–März). Montag geschlossen.
Erwachsene 7 €, ermäßigt 4 €. Mi + So nachmittags frei für EU-Bürger.

Right next to the cathedral stands the Palau Reial de l'Almudaina — a royal palace with over 1,000 years of history. It was built in the 10th century as a Moorish fortress (Alcázar) and converted into the royal palace of the Mallorcan crown after the Christian reconquest in 1229. Today, it serves as the official summer residence of the Spanish royal family — King Felipe VI welcomes dignitaries here in August.

The visit is worthwhile mainly because of the Gothic hall (Saló del Tinell) with its pointed arches, the royal apartments with furniture from the 17th–19th centuries, the small Capella de Santa Anna (Romanesque-Gothic style mix), and the magnificent view from the windows of Parc de la Mar and the cathedral.

The S'Hort del Rei gardens below the palace are freely accessible and a shady oasis with Arabic water basins, sculptures (including a bronze egg by Joan Miró), and palm trees. Ideal for a short break after visiting the cathedral and palace.

Honestly: Compared to Spain's great palaces (Alhambra, Alcázar of Seville), the Almudaina is modest. But in combination with the cathedral and only 10 minutes walking distance from each other, the detour is worth it — especially since the view alone is worth the entrance fee.

Tipp

Wednesday and Sunday afternoons (Oct.–March) admission is free for EU citizens. Just bring your ID!

Old Town Walking Tour

Palma's old town is one of the largest contiguous historic city centers in Europe — over 1 km² of area, crisscrossed by medieval alleys that are a challenge even for Google Maps. The best way to explore the district is on foot and without a strict plan, but the following stops should not be missed.

Duration: 3–4 hours leisurely, with café stops more like half a day.
Best time: Morning (9–12 am), when the patios are open and it's not too hot yet.
Start: Plaça Major | End: Parc de la Mar (by the cathedral)

1. Plaça Major
The large rectangular square with its arcades is Palma's living room. Under the square: a shopping center (not very interesting). On the square: street musicians, flower market (Saturdays), cafés to arrive at. The yellow-ochre facades with green shutters are a classic Palma photo motif.

2. Can Forteza Rey
Just a few steps from Plaça Major stands this Art Nouveau jewel (1909) at the corner of Plaça del Marquès del Palmer. The facade with its floral ceramics, wrought-iron balcony, and glazed bay window strongly resembles Gaudí's Barcelona. In fact, it was designed by architect Lluís Forteza-Rey in the Catalan Modernisme style.

3. Arab Baths (Banys Àrabs)
A small but atmospheric remnant of Moorish rule (10th century). Two rooms with horseshoe arches resting on ancient columns (each column different — recycled from Roman and Byzantine buildings). The adjacent garden with orange trees is a quiet retreat. Entrance: 3 €. Daily 9:30 am–7 pm (summer), 9:30 am–6 pm (winter).

4. Basilica de Sant Francesc
The largest Gothic church after the cathedral, with a magnificent Baroque facade and a beautiful cloister (14th century) with slender columns. Inside: the tomb of Ramon Llull, Mallorca's most important medieval scholar. The cloister is the real highlight — shady, quiet, photogenic. Entrance: 5 €.

5. Patios of the Old Town (Courtyards)
Palma has over 80 historic courtyards proposed for World Heritage status. The most beautiful: Can Marquès (Carrer de Can Zanglada 2a, museum, 5 €), Can Olesa (Carrer del Morey 9, imposing staircase), Can Vivot (Carrer de Can Savellà 4, one of the most splendid). Many patios are freely accessible during the day — just look through the open arches!

6. Plaça de Cort & Olive Tree
Palma's town hall (Ajuntament) stands on Plaça de Cort. In front of the building grows a more than 800-year-old olive tree — Palma's most photographed non-building. The covered bench beneath it is a popular meeting point.

7. Paseo del Borne & Parc de la Mar
The elegant promenade avenue Paseo del Borne with plane trees, luxury boutiques (Louis Vuitton, Loewe), and grand dame cafés leads down to Parc de la Mar — the park below the cathedral with an artificial lake reflecting La Seu. Best photo spot, especially at sunset.

Tipp

The best patio route: Carrer del Morey → Carrer de Can Savellà → Carrer de la Portella. On this short section (500 m) are over a dozen historic courtyards, many of them open during the day.

Santa Catalina & Market Hall€€

Plaça de la Navegació, 29, 07013 Palma
Mo–Sa 7–17 Uhr (Markt), Gastro-Stände teilweise bis 21 Uhr

Santa Catalina is Palma's culinary epicenter. The former fishing district west of the old town has developed into the trendiest neighborhood in the last ten years — without losing its charm. Here, people meet for brunch, aperitivo, and late dinners, and the atmosphere is relaxed, international, and informal.

★★★ Mercat de Santa Catalina

The oldest market hall in Palma (since 1920) is the heart of the district. Unlike the touristy Mercat de l'Olivar, Santa Catalina is still a real neighborhood market: locals buy fish, fruits, vegetables, and flowers here. In between, there are more and more tapas stands and small bars where you can enjoy fresh oysters, Ibérico ham, Mallorcan sobrassada, or a glass of cava.

Opening hours: Mon–Sat 7 am–5 pm. The tapas bars often stay open until 8–9 pm.

Around the Market

The streets around the market hall are dotted with excellent restaurants, cafés, and shops:

  • Carrer de Fàbrica: The main artery — restaurants, wine bars, vegetarian cuisine
  • Carrer de Sant Magí: Cocktail bars, international cuisine, nightlife
  • Carrer de Cotoner: Concept stores, vintage, local design

Santa Catalina on a Budget

Despite gentrification, there are still affordable options:

  • Menú del día in more traditional bars: 12–15 € for starter + main course + drink
  • Tapas at the market: Individual portions from 3–5 €, ideal for mixing and matching
  • Vermouth hour: Many bars offer vermouth + olive before dinner (12–2 pm) for 3–4 €

Tipp

Saturday morning is the best time for the Mercat de Santa Catalina: full stalls, lively atmosphere, and you can sample from stand to stand. During the week, it's quieter — better for a relaxed tapas lunch.

Museums & Culture

Palma has a surprisingly rich museum landscape — from contemporary art to Joan Miró to Arab history. Three houses stand out in particular.

Es Baluard — Museum of Contemporary Art★★

Plaça de la Porta de Santa Catalina, 10, 07012 Palma
Di–Sa 10–20 Uhr, So 10–15 Uhr. Montag geschlossen.
Erwachsene 6 €, ermäßigt 4,50 €. Freitags ab 17 Uhr frei.

Housed in a converted Renaissance fortress (Bastió de Sant Pere, 16th century) right by the harbor, Es Baluard is one of the most important museums for contemporary art in Spain. The collection includes works by Picasso, Miró, Barceló, Tàpies, and many international artists. Particularly impressive: the museum's architecture itself — the old fortress walls were integrated into the modern building, and from the terrace on the roof, there is a fantastic panoramic view over the harbor and the old town.

Temporary exhibitions are often bold and provocative. The terrace and architecture alone make the visit worthwhile, even if contemporary art is not your thing.

Fundació Pilar i Joan Miró★★

Carrer de Saridakis, 29, 07015 Palma
Di–Sa 10–18 Uhr (bis 19 Uhr im Sommer), So 10–15 Uhr. Montag geschlossen.
Erwachsene 9 €, ermäßigt 6 €. Samstags frei.

Joan Miró lived and worked the last 30 years of his life in Mallorca (1956–1983). His wife Pilar was from the island, and Miró felt deeply rooted here. The foundation in Cala Major, about 4 km west of the center, includes his studio (which can be visited almost unchanged, with paint pots, brushes, and unfinished works), a collection of over 6,000 works (paintings, sculptures, graphics), and changing exhibitions.

The main building, designed by Rafael Moneo, is itself an architectural highlight. The sculpture garden with a view of the sea completes the experience. Plan at least 1.5–2 hours.

Tipp

Admission is free on Saturdays! Bus No. 3, 20, or 46 from Plaça d'Espanya to the "Joan Miró" stop.

Museu de Mallorca

Carrer de la Portella, 5, 07001 Palma
Di–Sa 10–18 Uhr, So 10–14 Uhr. Montag geschlossen.
Eintritt frei.

In the Palau Ayamans, a stately city palace from the 17th century, the Museu de Mallorca tells the story of the island from the Talayotic culture (2000 BC) through the Arab rule to modern times. The collection includes archaeology, ceramics, religious art, and ethnographic objects. Reopened after several years of renovation, the museum is a good introduction to understanding Mallorca's complex history.

The museum is small enough for a one-hour visit and is located in the middle of the old town — perfect as a stopover during a walking tour.

Beaches in Palma

Let's be honest: Palma is a city trip destination, not a beach destination. The beaches directly in the city are decent, but not the reason to fly to Mallorca. Still, there are options for a quick cool-off between sightseeing — and within a 15–20 minute drive, you can reach truly beautiful coves.

Platja de Palma (★★)

The 6 km long sandy beach east of the center is Mallorca's most famous — and notorious — beach. The section around Balneario 6 (Ballermann) is what you imagine: mass tourism, sangria buckets, German Schlager music. BUT: The sections further east (towards Can Pastilla) and west (towards S'Arenal) are much quieter and more family-friendly. The beach itself is actually beautiful: fine sand, shallow water, good infrastructure.

Accessible: Bus 25 from Plaça d'Espanya (20 min.).

Can Pere Antoni (★)

The closest beach to the city, directly below the cathedral on Paseo Marítimo. Narrow, rocky-sandy, moderate water quality. But: swimming with a view of La Seu is quite spectacular. More for sunbathing than swimming — acceptable for a quick dip after sightseeing.

Cala Major (★★)

About 4 km west of the center, a medium-sized city beach with fine sand and clearer water than Can Pere Antoni. Near the Miró Foundation, so it's combinable. Crowded in summer, but more pleasant than Platja de Palma.

Bus 3 or 46 from Plaça d'Espanya (15 min.).

Illetes / Platja de Illetes (★★★)

Only 8 km southwest of Palma, but feels like a different world: turquoise water, rocky coves, pine forests reaching the shore. Illetes is the most beautiful easily accessible beach from Palma — Caribbean feeling, just a 20-minute drive. There are several small coves, some with beach clubs (Purobeach, Balneario Illetas), others untouched.

Bus 3 from Plaça d'Espanya (25 min.) or 15 min. by car/taxi (approx. 12–15 €).

Tipp

For truly spectacular beaches, you should leave Palma: Cala Mondragó (southeast, 1h), Es Trenc (south, 50 min.), or the bays of the east coast are all doable as day trips.

Dining & Nightlife in Palma

In recent years, Palma has evolved into the culinary capital of the Balearic Islands — boasting several Michelin stars, a thriving tapas scene, and an increasing number of restaurants that blend Mallorcan traditions with modern techniques. From the 3-euro ensaimada at the bakery to the 200-euro tasting menu, everything is possible.

€ Budget — Tapas & Snacks

Bar España · Carrer de Sant Miquel, 2 — An institution since 1935. Standing bar, showcase full of tapas, locals crowd the counter. Tortilla, Pimientos de Padrón, Croquetas. 2–5 € per tapa.

La Rosa Vermutería · Carrer de la Rosa, 5 — Hipster vermouth bar in the old town. House-made vermouth, along with conservas (canned fish, deliberately retro), olives, anchovies. Perfect before dinner. 3–8 €.

Fornet de la Soca · Carrer dels Paraires, 9 — Artisan bakery reviving old Mallorcan recipes. The ensaimada (Mallorca's national pastry, a spiral-shaped yeast pastry with lard) is the best in town here. From 3 €.

€€ Mid-range — Mallorcan & Modern

Celler Sa Premsa · Plaça del Bisbe Berenguer de Palou, 8 — The classic for Mallorcan home cooking. Huge portions of Tumbet (vegetable casserole), Frito Mallorquín (offal with vegetables, better than it sounds), Lomo con Col (pork with cabbage). In an old wine cellar with oak barrels on the walls. 12–20 € main course.

Mercat 1930 · Carrer de la Missió, 15a — Food market concept with various stalls: sushi, tacos, pasta, Mallorcan tapas. Modern, lively, ideal for groups with different tastes. 10–18 €.

Ca'n Eduardo · Contramuelle Mollet, 3 (3rd floor) — Legendary fish restaurant right in the harbor, since 1943. Fresh fish according to the daily offer, paella for two, sea view from the balcony. 20–35 €.

€€€ High-end — Fine Dining

DINS Santi Taura · Carrer d'en Morey, 7 — 1 Michelin star. Santi Taura is Mallorca's most famous chef, interpreting traditional island recipes at the highest level. Tasting menu from 95 €. Evenings only, reservation weeks in advance.

Adrián Quetglas · Paseo Mallorca, 20 — The Moldovan-Mallorcan chef offers a sensational Menú del día for 25 € (including wine!) at lunchtime. Evenings à la carte 30–50 €. One of the best value-for-money in this category.

Marc Fosh · Carrer de la Missió, 7a (Hotel Convent de la Missió) — British chef, Mallorca veteran, Michelin-experienced. Mediterranean cuisine with seasonal ingredients. Menu from 85 €.

Nightlife

Palma's nightlife is concentrated in three zones:

  • La Lonja: Cocktail bars and gin-tonics along Carrer d'Apuntadors. Stylish, 25–35 age group. Barón Rampante, Café Atlantico, Ginbo.
  • Santa Catalina: More wine bars and relaxed drinks. Bodega La Rambla, Wineing, Vandal.
  • Paseo Marítimo / Harbor: Clubs and large discos. Tito's (an institution since 1923), Pacha, Social Club.

In summer, nightlife also shifts to the beach clubs: Purobeach (Cala Estancia), Anima Beach (right on Paseo Marítimo), Zhero Beach (Illetes).

Tipp

The Ensaimada belongs to Mallorca like the pretzel to Bavaria. For the best Ensaimada in the city: Fornet de la Soca (artisan, modern), Horno Santo Cristo (traditional, since 1910), or Can Joan de s'Aigo (Palma's oldest café, since 1700!).

Practical Tips Palma

Getting Around Palma

On foot: The best way to explore Palma. The old town, Santa Catalina, La Lonja, and Paseo Marítimo are easily walkable. From Plaça d'Espanya to the cathedral: 15 minutes.

Bus (EMT Palma): The bus network is well-developed and affordable. Single ride 2 €, day pass (Tarjeta Ciudadana) is worth it from 3 rides. Important lines:

  • Line 3: Center → Cala Major → Illetes (beach + Miró Foundation)
  • Line 25: Center → Platja de Palma
  • Line 1: Airport → Center (Plaça d'Espanya)
  • Line 46: Loop through the western suburbs

Bicycle / E-Scooter: Palma is flat and has a growing network of bike paths, especially along Paseo Marítimo. Rental bikes: Bicipalma (city bike rental system, app required, first 30 min. free), Donkey Republic (app-based, from 3 €/h). E-Scooter: Tier, Lime.

Parking in Palma

One word: difficult. In the old town and Santa Catalina, there are practically no parking spaces. Tips:

  • Parking garage Parc de la Mar: Directly under the park by the cathedral. Central, but expensive (2.50 €/h, max. 25 €/day).
  • Parking garage Plaça Major: Under the square, convenient for the old town. Similar prices.
  • Parking garage s'Escorxador: Slightly cheaper (1.80 €/h), 10 minutes walk to the old town.
  • Blue zones (ORA): Street parking with a ticket. Max. 2 hours, approx. 1 €/h.

Palma as a Day Trip Base

Palma is an excellent starting point for day trips in all directions:

  • Valldemossa: 30 min. (Bus 210 from the bus station)
  • Sóller: 1h by historic train (experience!), 30 min. by car
  • Es Trenc (beach): 50 min. by car
  • Cala Mondragó: 1h by car
  • Alcúdia/Pollença: 1h by car or bus (Bus 351)
  • Caves of Drach: 1h 10 min. by car

The bus station (Estació Intermodal) at Plaça d'Espanya is the hub for all TIB intercity buses. The train to Sóller and Inca also departs from here. Timetables: tib.caib.es

Airport Transfer

The Aeropuerto de Palma de Mallorca (PMI) is only 8 km east of the center.

  • Bus 1: Airport → Plaça d'Espanya (center). Every 15 min., 5 €, 20–25 min.
  • Taxi: 20–25 € to the center, fixed price (tariff zone).
  • Car rental: All major providers at the airport. TIP: Only book if you want to explore the island. For Palma alone, you don't need a car.

Achtung

Palma has strict tourist rental regulations: vacation rentals in multi-family houses have been banned since 2018. Only book through official platforms and check if the accommodation has a license number (ETV). Illegal rentals can result in high fines — even for guests.

Stadtrundgang

Altstadt-Rundgang: Vom Plaça Major zur Kathedrale

3–4 hours 3,5 km

The classic tour through Palma's historic heart — from medieval courtyards to Arab baths and the Gothic cathedral. Ideal in the morning when the patios are open.

1

Plaça Major

Start at Palma's large square with arcades and street musicians. Coffee in one of the terrace cafés to arrive.

15 min.
2

Can Forteza Rey

A few steps southwest: The Art Nouveau jewel at Plaça del Marquès del Palmer. Floral ceramics, wrought iron — Gaudí sends his regards.

10 min.
3

Banys Àrabs (Arab Baths)

Through the alleys south to the Moorish baths (10th century). Horseshoe arches on ancient columns, a tranquil orange tree garden. Admission 3 €.

20 min.
4

Basilica de Sant Francesc

Gothic church with the most beautiful cloister in Palma (14th century). Tomb of Ramon Llull. The courtyard alone is worth the detour. Admission 5 €.

25 min.
5

Patios of Carrer del Morey

The "Patio Mile" of Palma: Can Olesa (No. 9) with the famous staircase, Can Marquès, and other courtyards. Just look through the open archways.

20 min.
6

Plaça de Cort & the old olive tree

The town hall and in front of it the over 800-year-old olive tree — Palma's most photographed landmark after the cathedral.

10 min.
7

Paseo del Borne

The elegant avenue with plane trees and luxury boutiques. Stroll like the Palmesanos. A stop at Café Bosch is possible.

15 min.
8

Cathedral La Seu & Parc de la Mar

Finale: Admire the Gothic cathedral from outside and inside (9 € admission). Then enjoy the view of La Seu in Parc de la Mar, reflecting in the artificial lake.

60 min.

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