Eating & Drinking in Rome

Rome's cuisine is uncompromisingly traditional. The four sacred pasta dishes — Carbonara, Cacio e Pepe, Amatriciana, and Gricia — are prepared here as they have been for generations. No cream in Carbonara (never!), no Parmesan on fish dishes, no cappuccino after meals. Those who adhere to Roman rules will be rewarded with some of the best meals of their lives.

The Four Roman Pasta Classics

• Cacio e Pepe — Pecorino Romano + black pepper + pasta (Tonnarelli or Spaghetti). Only three ingredients, but achieving the perfect texture is an art.
• Carbonara — Guanciale (pork cheek, NOT bacon!), egg yolk, Pecorino Romano, black pepper. Creamy from the egg, NO cream.
• Amatriciana — Guanciale, tomato sauce, Pecorino Romano, peperoncino. Hearty and tomatoey.
• Gricia — Guanciale + Pecorino. The "white Amatriciana" — the oldest of the four.

Recommendations

€ Budget:

• Supplizio · Via dei Banchi Vecchi 143 — Gourmet supplì (fried rice balls with mozzarella), Rome's best street food stand. From €3.
• Trapizzino · Testaccio + multiple locations — Triangular pizza pockets filled with Roman classics (Polpette al Sugo, Pollo alla Cacciatora). €3.50–5.
• Pizzarium Bonci · Via della Meloria 43 — Pizza al taglio (by the slice) at world-class level. Gabriele Bonci is the "Michelangelo of pizza." From €5 for a filling portion.

€€ Mid-range:

• Da Enzo al 29 · Via dei Vascellari 29, Trastevere — Authentic Roman trattoria. Perfect Cacio e Pepe, Carbonara, Amatriciana. No reservation, queue from 7 PM. €10–15 main course.
• Felice a Testaccio · Via Mastro Giorgio 29 — The legendary Cacio e Pepe is tossed at the table in a Parmesan wheel. Reservation needed. €12–18.
• Armando al Pantheon · Salita dei Crescenzi 31 — Family trattoria right by the Pantheon, still authentic and fairly priced. Since 1961. Reservation mandatory.

€€€ High-end:

• Roscioli · Via dei Giubbonari 21 — Delicatessen, bakery, and restaurant in one. Legendary Carbonara, excellent wine. €20–35 main course.
• La Pergola · Rome Cavalieri Hotel — 3 Michelin stars, Heinz Beck. The best restaurant in Rome with a panoramic view. Tasting menu from €220.

Gelato

Rome's best gelaterias: Fatamorgana (creative flavors, vegan-friendly), Giolitti (since 1890, an institution), Il Gelato di Claudio Torcè (purist favorite, only natural ingredients), Gelateria del Teatro (artisan, changing flavors). 2 scoops: €2.50–4.