Chouara Tannery

The Chouara Tannery is the oldest and largest of the three tanneries in Fes — and one of the most iconic images of Morocco. Since the 11th century, animal hides have been processed here using the same methods as in the Middle Ages: In dozens of round stone vats that look like a giant palette, the hides are soaked in solutions of pigeon droppings (for tanning), lime (for depilation), saffron, poppy, indigo, mint, and cedarwood (for dyeing).

The Smell

Warning: The stench is beastly. The combination of pigeon droppings, lime, animal hides, and chemicals hits you like a wall. Mint leaves are offered at the entrances to hold against your nose — take them! After 10 minutes, the nose somewhat adjusts, but sensitive stomachs should be prepared.

The Visit

The tannery itself cannot be entered — access is through the leather shops on the surrounding terraces, which grant you free entry (and of course hope you will buy something afterward). You will be led by an employee to the terrace, from where you have an overview of the entire vat field. The best light for photos is in the morning (10:00–12:00 am), when the sun shines directly on the colorful vats.

The work of the tanners is brutal and hazardous to health — they stand for hours in the caustic solutions, often barefoot. It is a dying profession: Many young Fassis no longer want to do this work. The color palette is seasonal: In summer, yellow and orange (saffron, henna) dominate, in winter more brown and red.

Buying Leather?

The shops around the tannery sell leather goods — bags, jackets, shoes, poufs. The quality varies greatly. Good goat leather is recognized by its softness and lack of chemical smell (cheap leather is tanned with chrome instead of traditionally). Prices: Leather bag 200–800 MAD, babouches 60–200 MAD, leather pouf 200–500 MAD. Bargain hard — the initial prices here are often 3–4 times inflated due to the tourist surcharge.