Meknès — the forgotten imperial city

Meknès is the most underrated of Morocco's four imperial cities — and that's exactly what makes it so appealing. While Marrakech and Fes are overrun by tourists, Meknès has preserved its authentic character. The city owes its imperial splendor to Sultan Moulay Ismail (1672–1727), the "Sun King of Morocco," who made it the capital of the Alaouite Empire and built a palace complex to rival Versailles.

Bab Mansour — the most beautiful gate in Morocco

The Bab Mansour el-Aleuj (completed in 1732) is the most monumental and richly decorated city gate in Morocco — and probably in the entire Islamic world. The facade with its Corinthian marble columns (looted from the Roman ruins of Volubilis), green Zellij mosaics, and stucco decoration on the yellow sandstone is of overwhelming beauty. Behind it lies the Place el-Hedim, Meknès' version of the Djemaa el-Fna — much smaller and quieter, but with food stalls, musicians, and storytellers in the evening.

Moulay Ismail Mausoleum

The Mausoleum of Sultan Moulay Ismail is one of the few religious sites in Morocco that non-Muslims are allowed to enter. The tomb is a masterpiece of stucco, mosaics, and marble — serene, dignified, and imbued with an atmosphere of reverence. Moulay Ismail is revered as one of Morocco's greatest rulers (although legend has it he fathered over 800 children and kept thousands of slaves).

Heri es-Souani — the royal stables

The Heri es-Souani are the famous granaries and stables of Moulay Ismail — a vast complex of stone arches that once housed 12,000 horses. The architecture is impressive: thick walls and a sophisticated ventilation system kept temperatures low even in the height of summer. Part of the vaults has collapsed, giving the place a romantically ruinous atmosphere. At the rear end lies the Agdal Lake (Bassin de l'Agdal), an artificial lake that served as a water reservoir and recreational area.

Medina & Souks

Meknès' Medina is more compact and less confusing than that of Fes — in 2–3 hours you get a good overview. The souks are authentic and affordable: Here, Moroccans shop, not tourists. Particularly noteworthy are the Olive Souk (hundreds of varieties of Moroccan olives) and the Textile Souk (Djellabas from 100 MAD).