Practical Tips Fes
Getting Around
In the Medina: Exclusively on foot. No car, no motorcycle (officially), no bicycle fits through the alleys. Watch out for donkeys and handcarts — the shout "Balak!" (Make way!) means: Press against the wall immediately. In Fes, the donkey always has the right of way.
Petit Taxi: The red taxis operate within the city (mostly Ville Nouvelle ↔ Medina gates). Insist on the taximeter — without a meter, 15–25 MAD within the city. At night, a 50% surcharge applies.
Train: Fes has a modern train station (Gare de Fès) with good connections to Marrakech (7 hours, from 195 MAD), Rabat (2.5 hours, from 95 MAD), Meknès (45 min., from 25 MAD), and Tangier (4 hours, from 125 MAD). Tickets online via oncf.ma or at the counter.
Accommodation
- € Budget: Riad Verus (Derb Serraj, from 300 MAD/night) — simple, clean, great rooftop terrace, warm hosts. Dar Seffarine (at Place Seffarine, from 350 MAD) — right next to the coppersmiths, authentic and charmingly loud.
- €€ Mid-range: Riad Fes Maya (from 700 MAD) — stylish, quiet Riad with pool and excellent breakfast. Karawan Riad (from 800 MAD) — design Riad with modern aesthetics in a historic building.
- €€€ Luxury: Riad Fès (Derb Bin Lamdoune, from 2,500 MAD) — Morocco's most famous boutique hotel, member of Relais & Châteaux. Palais Faraj (from 2,000 MAD) — former palace with panoramic views, spa, and restaurant.
Safety
Fes is safer than Marrakech — less pickpocketing, less fraud. Nevertheless: Keep valuables close to your body, avoid the dark side alleys of the Medina at night, and firmly decline "Faux Guides." The biggest danger in the Medina is the donkeys, not the people.
Hammam
A visit to the Hammam (traditional steam bath) is a must in Fes. There are tourist hammams in Riads (comfortable, more expensive: 200–400 MAD with massage) and public neighborhood hammams (authentic, spartan: 15–20 MAD entry, scrub 50 MAD extra). For first-time visitors, a tourist hammam is recommended — the public ones have unwritten rules that can overwhelm newcomers.
