Fes el-Bali — the oldest Medina in the world★★★
Fes el-Bali (the old Fes) is the Medina of all Medinas — founded in 789 AD by Idris I and thus the oldest continuously inhabited medieval city in the world. The UNESCO World Heritage Site stretches over a basin between two hills and includes over 9,400 alleys and dead ends, 350 mosques, dozens of medersas, fondouks (caravanserais), and hammams.
The First Impression
Fes el-Bali is not Marrakech. While Marrakech has opened up to tourism, Fes' Medina is a functioning medieval urban system: Here, life is lived, not staged. Donkeys carry building materials through the alleys (shout "Balak! Balak!" = Make way!), craftsmen hammer, grind, and weave in the same workshops as their great-grandfathers, and the muezzin calls to prayer five times a day. It is overwhelming, chaotic, smelly (the tanneries!), loud — and absolutely fascinating.
The Main Axes
Two main alleys run through the Medina: The Talaa Kebira (the great slope) and the Talaa Seghira (the small slope), both starting at the Bab Bou Jeloud (the blue gate, the main entrance to the Medina) and winding down to the Qaraouiyine Mosque. Along these axes are the main souks, mosques, and medersas. Stick to these axes, and you'll always find your way back.
The Souks
Fes' souks are more authentic and less touristy than those in Marrakech. Prices are lower, quality is often higher, and the merchants are less aggressive. Particularly worth seeing:
- Souk el-Henna: A small square with henna, cosmetics, and herbs — the oldest marketplace in the city.
- Souk Nejjarine: The carpenter's souk around the beautiful Nejjarine Fountain (18th century) and the Fondouk Nejjarine (now a wood museum). Cedarwood crafts: boxes from 50 MAD, carved tables from 500 MAD.
- Souk el-Attarine: The spice souk, named after the nearby Medersa el-Attarine. Ras el-Hanout, rosebuds, lavender, dried figs.
Viewpoints
For an overview of the maze: The Borj Nord (an old fortress north of the Medina, now a weapons museum, 20 MAD) offers the best panoramic view. Alternatively, the Merinid Tombs on the hill above — at sunset, when the minarets glow golden and the call of the muezzin echoes over the city, this is one of the most magical moments in Morocco.
💡 Tipp
Fes el-Bali cannot be covered on foot in one day — plan at least 2 full days. On the first day, go down the Talaa Kebira (tannery, Qaraouiyine, medersas), on the second day the Talaa Seghira and the outskirts. An official guide (half day 350–500 MAD) is actually useful in Fes — the Medina is much more confusing than Marrakech.
Achtung
Even in Fes, there are "Faux Guides" who offer unsolicited help and drag you into carpet shops. They are less aggressive than in Marrakech but persistent. Clearly say "Non, merci" or "I already have a guide." Children who offer to guide you "for only 5 MAD" will reliably lead you to their uncle's shop.
