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Verstehen · Kapitel 10

Society & Identity

Canary Islands Reiseführer

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VerstehenKapitel 10: Society & Identity
Verstehen · Kapitel 10

Society & Identity

The Canary Islanders are not typical Spaniards — and they take pride in that. An archipelago between Europe, Africa, and Latin America, shaped by insularity, emigration, and one of the largest expatriate communities in Europe.

Canarian vs. Spanish — A Unique Identity

Never call a Canary Islander a “mainland Spaniard" — the term “Peninsular" (mainland Spaniard) is clearly distinguished from “Canario", and most Canary Islanders define themselves primarily by their island affiliation. One is Tinerfeño (Tenerife), Grancanario (Gran Canaria), Conejero (Lanzarote — literally “rabbit breeder") or Majorero (Fuerteventura) — and only then Canario and Spaniard.

The Canarian identity is drawn from several sources:

  • Geographical Isolation: Over 1,000 km from the Spanish mainland, only 100 km off the African coast — the Canary Islands are Europe's most remote region
  • Guanche Heritage: A growing pride in pre-Hispanic roots. Guanche names (Tanausú, Gara, Acerina, Beneharo) are popular as first names, and archaeological sites are increasingly celebrated as identity anchors
  • Latin American Connection: Through centuries of emigration to Cuba, Venezuela, and Uruguay, many Canary Islanders feel closer to Latin America than to Madrid. The Canarian accent sounds “South American" to mainland Spaniards
  • African Proximity: The geographical location and Guanche origins from North Africa create an awareness of living on the edge of two continents

The rivalry between Tenerife and Gran Canaria (Pleito Insular) is legendary and permeates everything: politics, football, infrastructure. Both islands claim leadership in the archipelago, and the solution of two capitals shows how seriously this rivalry is taken.

Expat Communities — The Germans in the Canary Islands

The Canary Islands are Europe's most popular destination for German-speaking expatriates. An estimated 30,000–50,000 Germans live permanently or semi-permanently on the islands, along with thousands of Austrians and Swiss. The largest communities are found in:

  • South Tenerife: Los Cristianos, Playa de las Américas, Costa Adeje — entire streets here have German bakeries, butcher shops, pharmacies, and real estate agents. The area around Pueblo Canario in Playa de las Américas is practically a German village in the sun
  • South Gran Canaria: Maspalomas, Playa del Inglés, San Agustín — similar to Tenerife, with its own doctors, lawyers, and clubs
  • Fuerteventura: Corralejo and Costa Calma have growing German communities, often with a focus on surfing and outdoor activities
  • Lanzarote: Smaller but established German community, especially in Playa Blanca and Costa Teguise

Integration varies greatly: Some expatriates have lived on the islands for decades, speak fluent Spanish, and are deeply integrated into local society. Others move exclusively within the German bubble — reading the “Wochenblatt" newspaper, going to the German doctor, and meeting at the German regulars' table. For tourists, the German infrastructure is convenient (German-speaking doctors in emergencies!), but one should be aware that this parallel world does not reflect the “real" Canarian life.

Besides the Germans, there are also large communities of Britons (especially in South Tenerife and Lanzarote), Scandinavians (Gran Canaria), and increasingly digital nomads from around the world (coworking spaces in Santa Cruz, Las Palmas, and Puerto de la Cruz are booming).

Tipp

The Clinica Tamaragua in Playa de las Américas and the Clinica Germano-Canaria in Las Palmas have German-speaking doctors. No language barrier in emergencies — but fully billable through the European Health Insurance Card.

Island Life — Mentality & Daily Life

Life in the Canary Islands follows its own rhythm, fundamentally different from the hectic mainland Spain. The Canary Islanders have a word for it: “Tranquilidad" — a deeply relaxed calmness that initially drives newcomers crazy and then completely takes over after a few weeks.

Some observations on Canarian daily life:

  • Time is relative: Appointments are generously interpreted. “Mañana" does not mean “tomorrow," but “not now." The handyman who says he will come “at 10 o'clock" means the morning — or the afternoon. Or next week. No offense intended
  • Living outdoors: The climate allows for year-round outdoor living. Social life takes place on plazas, in street cafés, and on the beaches. The apartment is for sleeping
  • Family culture: The family is the center of life. Sunday meals with the extended family are sacred, and children are naturally part of the evening program — a restaurant at 10 p.m. without children would be unthinkable
  • Late life: Dinner from 9 p.m., going out from 11 p.m., the bar closes when the last guest leaves. Sunday afternoon is Paseo time (strolling)

The insularity shapes the psyche: Everyone knows everyone (especially on the small islands of La Gomera, El Hierro, and La Graciosa), rumors spread at lightning speed, and privacy is a theoretical concept. At the same time, there is remarkable hospitality: A stranger entering a small village bar is offered a drink before they can order it.

Festivals & Traditions — Carnival and More

The Canary Islands are Spain's Fiesta Champions. Hardly a week goes by without a village festival, a procession, or a festival. The major events:

Carnival (February/March)

The Carnival of Santa Cruz de Tenerife is the second-largest carnival in the world after Rio de Janeiro — and it is absolutely spectacular. For over two weeks, the capital transforms into a state of emergency: The Carnival Queen Gala is a mega-production with costumes weighing up to 200 kg and several meters high. The parades (Cabalgatas) draw hundreds of thousands to the streets, and at the “Entierro de la Sardina" (Burial of the Sardine) on the last day, a giant papier-mâché sardine is burned — a surreal spectacle with weeping widows (men in mourning attire).

Las Palmas de Gran Canaria also celebrates a massive carnival, which is among the largest in Europe. Here, the Drag Queen Gala is the highlight — an extravagant show that garners international attention.

Other Important Festivals

  • Bajada de la Virgen (La Palma): Every five years (next: 2030) — one of Spain's most extraordinary folk festivals, featuring the “Danza de los Enanos" (Dance of the Dwarfs), where dancers perform in giant costumes
  • Corpus Christi (La Orotava, Tenerife): The streets are covered with spectacular flower carpets and sand pictures — one of the most beautiful Corpus Christi celebrations in the world
  • Fiesta del Charco (La Aldea, Gran Canaria): In September, locals jump into a natural pool to catch fish with their hands — a Guanche tradition that has survived for centuries
  • Noche de San Juan (June 23): Midsummer night is celebrated on all beaches with bonfires, jumping over the flames, and midnight swimming
  • Romería del Pino (Teror, Gran Canaria): On September 8 — the most important pilgrimage of Gran Canaria to the Virgen del Pino, with traditional costumes, ox carts, and Canarian music

Tipp

For the Carnival of Santa Cruz de Tenerife, be sure to book accommodations months in advance! The Carnival Queen Gala (usually on Wednesday evening) and the grand Cabalgata (Tuesday) are the highlights.

LGBTQ+ in the Canary Islands

The Canary Islands are one of Europe's most LGBTQ+-friendly destinations — and not just recently. Spain legalized same-sex marriage back in 2005, and the Canarian society is generally very open and tolerant.

The center of the LGBTQ+ scene is clearly Maspalomas/Playa del Inglés on Gran Canaria. The Yumbo Centrum — a large shopping and entertainment center — becomes a major gay hotspot in the evenings with dozens of bars, clubs, and restaurants. The beach of Kiosko 7 (between Playa del Inglés and the dunes) is the most famous gay beach in the Canary Islands.

Maspalomas Gay Pride

The Maspalomas Gay Pride (May/June) is one of the largest Pride events in Europe with over 300,000 visitors — and a week-long party with a parade, open-air concerts, pool parties, and cultural programs. The atmosphere is both relaxed and festive, and the local population supports the event enthusiastically.

Other LGBTQ+-friendly places:

  • Las Palmas de Gran Canaria: The old town of Vegueta and the Santa Catalina district have a lively scene
  • Santa Cruz de Tenerife: Especially during the carnival (the drag gala is legendary)
  • Puerto de la Cruz (Tenerife): Small but active community

On the smaller islands (La Gomera, El Hierro, La Graciosa), the scene is naturally smaller, but open hostility is extremely rare. Overall, the Canary Islands are a place where LGBTQ+ travelers can feel safe and welcome.

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