La Palma

The National Park Caldera de Taburiente is the geological heart of La Palma — a massive erosion crater about 8 km in diameter and up to 2,000 m deep, surrounded by an almost closed rock wall. Despite the name, it is not a volcanic caldera in the true sense, but a valley created over millions of years by water and erosion. The German geologist Leopold von Buch coined the term "Caldera" here in 1825, which has since been used worldwide for volcanic collapse craters.

Inside the caldera, streams flow year-round through dense pine forests. At the bottom, you encounter the Cascada de los Colores — a waterfall whose rocks shimmer in bright orange and green tones due to iron oxide and manganese. The play of colors is particularly spectacular after rainfall.

The main hike leads from the Mirador de los Brecitos (access by taxi from Los Llanos, approx. 18€ per trip) down to the campsite Zona de Acampada and further to the Cascada de los Colores. Walking time: approx. 5–6 hours for the round trip, 16 km, medium difficulty.

On the crater rim, the Mirador de la Cumbrecita (1,287 m) offers a breathtaking view into the caldera. Access is regulated — in summer, be sure to reserve online in advance (free) at reservasparquesnacionales.es.

The Roque de los Muchachos (2,426 m) is the highest point of La Palma and one of the best places in the northern hemisphere to observe stars. Up here, above the cloud cover, the air is so clear and light-free that the European Northern Observatory (ENO) has built its most important observatory — with the Gran Telescopio Canarias (GranTeCan), the largest single-aperture optical telescope in the world with a mirror diameter of 10.4 m.

La Palma was certified as the world's first Starlight Reserve in 2012. A special law ("Ley del Cielo") has protected the island's darkness since 1988: streetlights shine only downward, illuminated advertising is heavily restricted, and airplanes are not allowed to fly over the summit area at night.

The Observatorio del Roque de los Muchachos can be visited on guided tours. The tours take place during the day (reserve via visitlapalma.es) and last about 90 minutes. You see the GranTeCan from the outside and visit a smaller telescope from the inside. Cost: 9€ (adults), 5€ (children). Appointments are limited — often booked weeks in advance.

The drive to the summit is via the LP-4 — a spectacular but winding mountain road (approx. 45 min. from Santa Cruz). At the top, in clear weather, a 360° panorama awaits you over all the western Canary Islands: Tenerife with the Teide, La Gomera, El Hierro. Often you float above a dense sea of clouds — a surreal experience.

Santa Cruz de La Palma is the island's capital and one of the best-preserved colonial centers of the Canaries. The city (approx. 16,000 inhabitants) was one of the most important ports of the Spanish Empire in the 16th and 17th centuries, thanks to the sugar cane and silk trade — at times the third-largest port after Seville and Antwerp. Pirate attacks (including by Francis Drake) forced the construction of powerful fortifications.

The Calle Real (Calle O'Daly) is the main axis of the old town: a pedestrian promenade with Canarian colonial houses, whose intricately carved wooden balconies adorn the facades. At the end of the street lies the Plaza de España with the Renaissance church El Salvador (16th century) and the town hall with its arcades.

Particularly noteworthy are the Casas de los Balcones on Avenida Marítima — the famous balconies with their Moorish-inspired wooden railings, which have become a symbol of La Palma. Behind them stretches the waterfront promenade, where locals stroll in the evenings and eat tapas in the bars.

The Museo Insular in the former Franciscan monastery displays a curious mix of natural history, Guanche artifacts, and Canarian art. Admission: 3€. Right next door, the Museo Naval is worth a visit — a walk-in replica of Columbus's Santa María (2€).

Los Llanos de Aridane (approx. 20,000 inhabitants) is the unofficial capital of La Palma — larger than Santa Cruz, economically more significant, and the center of the west side. The city thrives on banana cultivation (the plantations stretch to the coast) and is the starting point for hikes into the Caldera de Taburiente.

The Plaza de España in Los Llanos is one of the most beautiful squares in the Canaries: surrounded by colonial houses, shaded by giant laurel trees (Ficus), and enlivened by street cafés. This is where everyday life takes place — retirees play dominoes, children romp, and in the evenings, the terraces fill up.

The associated coastal town Puerto de Tazacorte (10 minutes by car downhill) is the sunniest place in the Canaries — over 3,000 hours of sunshine per year. The black lava beach is about 600 m long and suitable for swimming (calm water, no strong surf like on the east coast). Along the beach promenade, fish restaurants line up with terraces for sunset views.

From Tazacorte, boat tours start for dolphin watching and to the sea caves on the steep coast (approx. 35€/person, 2 hours). With a bit of luck, you can see bottlenose dolphins, pilot whales, and occasionally even sperm whales.

On September 19, 2021, a new volcano erupted on the Cumbre Vieja in the west of La Palma — the Tajogaite (named after the old Guanche field name). It was the first volcanic eruption on La Palma since the Teneguía in 1971 and the longest eruption in the recorded history of the Canaries: 85 days, until December 13, 2021.

The lava flows destroyed over 2,900 buildings, buried around 1,200 hectares of land (including valuable banana plantations) under up to 70 m of lava, and created two new lava deltas in the sea, forever changing La Palma's coastline. Around 7,000 people had to be evacuated. Fortunately, there were no direct fatalities.

Today, the eruption area is a surreal lunar landscape — and at the same time, a place of deep concern for the island's inhabitants. The lava fields can now be visited in several places:

The Mirador del Time (594 m) on the LP-1 offers the best overview of the entire destruction area from above — the lava flow is clearly visible as a black band between the green banana plantations. From the LP-212 (road to Las Manchas), you can drive directly to the edge of the lava field. Guided tours (from about 25€) explain the volcanology and tell the stories of the affected families.

The Centro de Interpretación del Volcán in El Paso (opening 2024) documents the eruption with films, seismograms, and personal accounts.

La Palma is considered the best hiking island of the Canaries — and rightly so. Over 1,000 km of marked hiking trails crisscross the island, from leisurely coastal walks to challenging summit tours. The trail network is excellently maintained and signposted. Two long-distance trails form the backbone:

GR 130 — Camino Real de la Costa

The historic coastal path circles the entire island in 8–10 stages (approx. 120 km). It follows the old royal paths (Caminos Reales) that connected the villages before road construction. The GR 130 is not technically difficult, but due to constant ups and downs (a total of approx. 8,000 meters of elevation), it is physically demanding. Each stage ends in a village with accommodation.

Best sections for day hikers: Stage Barlovento–Los Sauces (through the laurel forest Los Tilos, 14 km, 5 hrs) and Stage Fuencaliente–Los Canarios (along the volcano route in the south, 10 km, 4 hrs).

GR 131 — Ruta de los Volcanes

The most spectacular hiking trail of the Canaries: a ridge hike over the volcanic peaks of the Cumbre Vieja from Refugio El Pilar (1,450 m) to Fuencaliente (lighthouse, sea level). The 17 km long route takes 6–7 hours past extinct craters, through pine forests, and over lava fields with views of Tenerife, La Gomera, and El Hierro. Since the eruption in 2021, the route has been partially rerouted but is fully accessible again.

Access: Bus Line 300 from Santa Cruz to Refugio El Pilar (few trips, check the schedule). Return from Fuencaliente by bus or pre-arranged taxi (approx. 45€ to Santa Cruz).

Other Top Tours

Bosque de Los Tilos (UNESCO Biosphere Reserve): 3 km easy circular hike through the primeval laurel forest. Shady path, ideal in the heat. Impressive ferns and moss-covered trees. Free of charge.

Marcos y Cordero: Legendary tunnel hike through 13 water channels ("Levadas") in the northeast. Flashlight needed, waterproof shoes recommended. Transfer from Los Sauces by 4x4 taxi (approx. 10€). Around 12 km, 5 hours.

Ruta de los Dragos: Short hike (3 km, 1.5 hrs) at Las Tricias to the oldest dragon trees on the island — some over 800 years old.

La Palma's cuisine is rustic Canarian traditional cuisine at a high level — honest, product-focused, and surprisingly independent. The island has a strong culinary identity that is distinctly different from Tenerife or Gran Canaria.

The Mojo Sauces

Canarian Mojos are found throughout the archipelago, but La Palma has perfected the art. Mojo rojo (red, made from dried peppers, cumin, garlic, olive oil, and vinegar) accompanies meat and papas arrugadas. Mojo verde (green, made from coriander or parsley) is served with fish. On La Palma, there is also the Mojo de almendra (almond sauce) — mild, creamy, delicious with grilled goat meat. Every family has its own recipe, and the debate over the best Mojo is a Canarian national sport.

Queso Palmero (D.O.P.)

La Palma's goat cheese bears the protected designation of origin Denominación de Origen Protegida and is a Canarian delicacy. Made from raw milk of the native Palmera goat, smoked over almond or prickly pear husks, with a distinctively aromatic, slightly smoky note. It is available young (tierno, creamy-mild, 1–2 months), semi-matured (semicurado, 2–6 months), and matured (curado, over 6 months, strong). Price on the island: from 8€/kg for tierno, up to 18€/kg for curado.

The best dairies: Quesos Artesanales Acosta (Puntallana) and Garafía Queso (northwest). Both offer tastings.

Wine from La Palma (D.O.)

La Palma has its own protected wine designation (D.O. La Palma) with three growing areas and ancient grape varieties that have long since disappeared elsewhere. Particularly noteworthy: the Malvasía from Fuencaliente — a golden, sweet wine from the grape of the same name, which grows on volcanic soils at an altitude of 300–500 m. Shakespeare mentioned the Malvasía of the Canaries as early as the 16th century.

Recommendation: Bodegas Teneguía (Fuencaliente), the most famous winery. Tasting with 4 wines for 8€. The dry Albillo is a secret tip.

Other Specialties

Papas arrugadas con mojo — wrinkled salt potatoes (cooked in seawater) with Mojo: the national dish of the Canaries, particularly good on La Palma. Gofio — roasted flour (corn or wheat), staple food of the Guanches, today served as a side dish, in stew, or as a dessert (Gofio amasado with honey, almonds, and raisins). Bienmesabe — sweet almond dessert with cinnamon and lemon.

Restaurant Recommendations

€ Tasca Catalina · Puerto de Tazacorte
The soul of Palmerian cuisine: tiny Tasca at the harbor, papas arrugadas perfect, plus fresh fish from the grill and homemade Mojo. No frills, honest prices.
Main courses 7–13€ · Wed–Mon 12–22 hrs

€€ Restaurante Chipi Chipi · Los Llanos
Upscale Canarian cuisine in a modern setting. Try the Queso Palmero a la plancha (grilled cheese) as a starter and the Cherne (wreckfish) as the main course.
Main courses 14–24€ · Tue–Sat 13–16 & 19–23 hrs

€€€ Restaurante San Borondón · Playa de Tazacorte
Fine dining on the beach with creative cuisine based on local products. Tasting menu (5 courses) for 45€ with wine pairing (25€ surcharge). Reservation highly recommended.
Tue–Sat from 19:30 hrs