Tenerife

The Parque Nacional del Teide is the heart of Tenerife and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2007. The numbers are impressive: 18,990 hectares of area, over 4 million visitors per year (most visited national park in Europe), and in the middle the Pico del Teide — at 3,718 meters not only Spain's highest mountain but also the third-highest island volcano in the world.

The landscape is simply otherworldly. The vast caldera Las Cañadas (17 km in diameter) stretches at around 2,000 meters altitude and looks like a film set for a Mars movie — indeed, "Clash of the Titans" and "Fast & Furious 6" were filmed here. Solidified lava flows in black, red, and ocher alternate with bizarre rock formations like the Roques de García (the motif on the old 1,000 peseta note) and the Los Azulejos (greenish shimmering rocks due to iron oxide weathering).

To the summit: The cable car Teleférico del Teide takes you from 2,356 m to 3,555 m in just 8 minutes. From the mountain station to the summit (3,718 m) it is then about 40 minutes on foot — but beware: For the last 163 meters to the crater rim, you need a free permit, which must be applied for via the national park's website. The contingents are limited to 200 people per day and are often booked weeks in advance. Alternatively: Without a permit, you can hike on the Telesforo Bravo trail to the La Fortaleza viewpoint (3,555 m) — the view from there is also overwhelming.

Starry sky: The Teide is one of the best places in the world for stargazing. The national park carries the Starlight Tourist Destination certificate, and the low light pollution makes the night sky here an experience. Guided night tours with telescopes cost from 50 € and are worth every cent.

Puerto de la Cruz was Tenerife's first tourist center — long before the south was developed. The city on the north coast has retained its authentic Canarian character: a colonial old town with brightly painted balconies, the bustling Plaza del Charco as its heart, shady squares under laurel trees, and fishing boats in the old harbor. Traditionally, many Germans vacation here — the menus are often trilingual.

The city's landmark is the seawater pools Lago Martiánez, designed by the exceptional Canarian artist César Manrique. The extensive complex from the 1970s with its saltwater pools, volcanic stone sculptures, and subtropical gardens blends organically into the coastal landscape — typical Manrique, who always merged architecture and nature. Admission: 5.50 €, sunbed 3 €.

Loro Parque: The famous animal and adventure park in the west of the city is Tenerife's most visited attraction. What began in 1972 as a small parrot park is now a huge zoo with the world's largest parrot collection (over 350 species), orcas, dolphins, penguins, gorillas, jaguars, and an impressive aquarium tunnel. The shows are spectacular, but the orca captivity is controversial — inform yourself in advance and form your own opinion. For families with children, Loro Parque remains an unforgettable experience.

Botanical Garden: The Jardín de Aclimatación (founded in 1788 by King Carlos III) is one of the oldest botanical gardens in Spain. On a modest area, over 3,000 tropical and subtropical plants grow here — including a gigantic fig tree (Ficus macrophylla) from Australia, whose aerial roots could occupy an entire building. Admission only 3 €, a bargain.

Santa Cruz de Tenerife, the island's capital, is often overlooked by tourists — a mistake. The bustling port city has a surprisingly vibrant cultural scene, the spectacular Auditorio de Tenerife (designed by Santiago Calatrava, the "Sydney Opera House of the Atlantic"), excellent shopping on the Calle Castillo, and one of the craziest carnivals in the world — the Santa Cruz Carnival is considered the second largest worldwide after Rio.

The Mercado de Nuestra Señora de África is a must: In the 1940s halls with their colonial-style patio, tropical fruits, Canarian cheeses, spices, and fresh fish pile up. The atmosphere is authentic, the prices fair, and the small bars in the market serve fresh fish from 8 €.

San Cristóbal de La Laguna — briefly La Laguna — is located only 9 km north of Santa Cruz and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999. The former capital of Tenerife (founded in 1496) was the first unfortified colonial city in Spain, and its street grid served as a blueprint for urban planning in Latin America — from Lima to Havana to Cartagena. The old town is a cohesive ensemble of over 600 historic buildings: magnificent city palaces with wooden balconies, baroque churches, quiet monasteries, and the oldest university in the Canary Islands (founded in 1792).

The Calle San Agustín and the Calle Obispo Rey Redondo (the "Cathedral Street") are the architectural showpieces. Particularly worth seeing: the Casa de los Capitanes Generales (17th century), the Catedral de La Laguna with its neoclassical facade, and the Palacio de Nava — a city palace that combines all stylistic epochs from Mannerism to Baroque to Neoclassicism. La Laguna is also a university town with 25,000 students, which ensures lively cafés, affordable tapas bars, and a youthful atmosphere.

The tourist south of Tenerife — sunshine on 350 days a year, even when the north is shrouded in clouds. Los Cristianos was once a sleepy fishing village and has retained a touch of authenticity despite mass tourism: The old port is still active (ferries to La Gomera), the old town behind the promenade has charming corners, and at Playa de los Cristianos the local population mingles with vacationers.

Playa de las Américas, on the other hand, is pure tourism: Planned on the drawing board in the 1970s, hotels, shopping centers, bars, and restaurants line the coast. There is no historical substance, but it has the best nightlife on the island: The Avenida de las Américas and the Veronicas district are lively until the early hours. For party vacations, Playa de las Américas is the first choice.

Beaches in the south:

• Playa de las Vistas — 850 m of golden sand, calm water, ideal for families. Sunbed + umbrella: 6 €.
• Playa del Camisón — Small, sheltered beach between Los Cristianos and Las Américas.
• Playa de Troya — Lively beach right on the promenade, good for water sports.

Siam Park: The huge Thai-style water park has been repeatedly voted the best water park in the world. The Tower of Power slide (28 m free fall through a shark tank) is not for the faint-hearted. Tickets cost 42 € for adults, but the fun factor is worth the price — expect 4–6 hours.

Costa Adeje is the upscale counterpart to Playa de las Américas — just a few kilometers further west, but a different world. Here you'll find five-star resorts, boutique hotels, and luxurious apartment complexes, the restaurants have wine lists instead of beer signs, and the beaches are more groomed and quieter.

The best beaches:

• Playa del Duque — Tenerife's most elegant beach: fine light sand, crystal-clear water, surrounded by upscale beach clubs and restaurants. Sunbed + umbrella: €8. It almost feels like the Côte d'Azur here.
• Playa de Fañabé — A wider family beach with water sports offerings, slightly livelier than El Duque.
• Playa de Torviscas — Easily accessible, touristy, but with decent infrastructure.

Barranco del Infierno: The "Hell's Gorge" is a spectacular hike right on the edge of Adeje — a deep canyon with endemic plants, ending at a waterfall. The 6.5 km route (round trip) takes about 3 hours and is moderately challenging. Important: Only 300 people are allowed per day, reservation via the website is mandatory. Entry €8.50.

Golf: Costa Adeje is Tenerife's golf mecca. The Golf Costa Adeje (27-hole, design: Pepe Gancedo) and the Abama Golf (18-hole, Dave Thomas design) offer perfect conditions year-round. Green fees: €80–180 depending on the season and course.

The Anaga Mountains in the far northeast of Tenerife are the green counterbalance to the volcanic desert of Teide — and for many hikers, the most beautiful part of the island. Since 2015, the area is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. The densely forested ridges (up to 1,024 m) capture the moist trade winds and create a mystical laurel forest (Laurisilva) that seems straight out of a Tolkien novel: moss-covered, gnarled trees, ferns as large as umbrellas, and mist wafting through the ravines.

The Anaga Mountains are sparsely populated — only a few hundred people live in the scattered hamlets, some of which were only accessible on foot until the 1960s. This isolation has preserved a unique flora: over 120 endemic plant species grow here, found nowhere else in the world.

The best hikes:

• Sendero de los Sentidos (Path of the Senses) — 1.5 km loop through the laurel forest, barrier-free, perfect for families. Start at the Cruz del Carmen visitor center.
• Punta de Hidalgo to Chinamada — 8 km, 4 hours, challenging. Through deep barrancos to a village with cave dwellings, some of which are still inhabited.
• Chamorga to Roque Bermejo — 12 km, 5 hours. The royal hike through the most remote valley of Tenerife to the abandoned lighthouse at the northern tip.
• Cruz del Carmen to Punta del Hidalgo — 10 km, 4.5 hours, mostly downhill. From the misty forest down to the sea — spectacular views guaranteed.

Taganana: The most picturesque village of the Anaga Mountains clings to a steep mountainside high above the sea. The narrow access road with its hairpin bends is an adventure in itself. Down at the beach Playa de Benijo, the Atlantic waves break dramatically on the offshore rocks — one of the most photogenic places in Tenerife. In the small restaurants on the beach, there is fresh fish (Vieja, Cherne) from €12.

The Masca Gorge (Barranco de Masca) in the Teno Mountains is Tenerife's legendary hike — a narrow, deep canyon that stretches from the mountain village of Masca (600 m) down to the sea. The 4.5 km route leads through breathtaking scenery of steep rock walls, lush vegetation, and a riverbed that is dry or water-filled depending on the season.

The village of Masca alone is worth a visit. The tiny mountain village (about 90 inhabitants) is spectacularly nestled between the rocky peaks of the Teno Mountains and was only accessible via a mule track until 1991. The drive over the winding mountain road from Santiago del Teide offers views that take your breath away — and often the passenger's as well.

The hike: The descent from Masca to the beach takes about 3 hours. Since reopening in 2021 (after being closed for several years due to rockfall danger), the gorge is only accessible with advance booking and accompanied by an authorized guide. The return from the beach is by boat to Los Gigantes (about 10 €, 20 minutes) — or you can hike back the same way (much more strenuous, 4 hours uphill).

Difficulty: Moderate to challenging. The route requires surefootedness, good footwear, and a head for heights. In some places, you have to climb over rocks, and the path is slippery when wet. Children under 8 years and people with limited mobility should not undertake this hike.

The Acantilados de los Gigantes — the "Cliffs of the Giants" — are one of the most spectacular coastal formations in the Canaries: vertical basalt cliffs rising up to 600 meters from the Atlantic. The indigenous people (Guanches) called the cliffs Tenegüide — "Devil's Wall." They are most impressively experienced from the water, on a boat tour.

Whale and dolphin watching: The waters between Tenerife and La Gomera are home to a resident population of about 500 short-finned pilot whales and numerous bottlenose dolphins. The animals live here year-round in sea depths of up to 2,000 meters — the sighting rate is over 90%. With a bit of luck, you might also see sperm whales, Blainville's beaked whales, or even blue whales (rare, most likely in spring).

Tours: Whale-watching boats depart from Puerto Colón (Costa Adeje) and Los Gigantes. There are three categories:

• Catamarans (2–3 hours) — From 25 €, large groups (up to 60 people), good for families. Often with swimming stop and drinks.
• Sailboats (3–4 hours) — From 45 €, smaller groups (10–15 people), quieter experience, often with lunch.
• Zodiac boats (2 hours) — From 35 €, small groups (8–10), closest to the animals, action-packed.

The town of Los Gigantes itself is a quiet, somewhat aged resort with a small marina, a black volcanic beach (Playa de los Guíos, right at the foot of the cliffs — fantastic backdrop!), and several good fish restaurants. The natural swimming pool Piscinas Naturales El Caletón in the neighboring community of Garachico is also worth a visit: natural, sea-fed lava pools, free entry.

The Canarian cuisine is honest, hearty, and surprisingly diverse — a mix of Spanish, Latin American, and African influences. In Tenerife, a unique culinary tradition has also been preserved: the Guachinches.

What is a Guachinche? Guachinches are makeshift taverns run by winemaking families in garages, backyards, or outbuildings. The idea: The winemaker serves his own wine and offers simple, homemade food — often just 3–4 dishes per day, prepared by the grandmother. The setting is spartan (plastic chairs, paper tablecloths), but the food is authentic and dirt cheap: A complete lunch with wine costs 8–12 € per person.

Guachinches have no fixed opening hours and no websites — they open when the new wine is ready (usually October to May) and close when it's drunk. They are mainly found in the wine-growing areas of the north: La Orotava, Tacoronte, El Sauzal, La Matanza. Finding them is part of the adventure — ask locals or look for handwritten signs by the roadside.

What you must try:

• Papas arrugadas con mojo — "Wrinkled potatoes": Small potatoes cooked in saltwater until the skin shrivels and forms a salt crust. Served with two Mojos: Mojo rojo (red, paprika-chili) and Mojo verde (green, coriander or parsley). The national dish of the Canaries, simple and divine.
• Gofio — Roasted corn or wheat flour, the staple food of the Guanches. Served as a side dish, in soups, or as a dessert (Gofio amasado with almonds and honey).
• Queso asado con mojo — Grilled Canarian goat cheese, often with Mojo and palm syrup.
• Conejo en salmorejo — Rabbit in spicy marinade, slowly braised. A classic in the Guachinches.
• Ropa vieja — "Old clothes": Chickpea stew with beef, chicken, and vegetables — Canarian soul food.
• Vieja a la espalda — Parrotfish, baked in the oven. The most popular fresh fish of the Canaries.
• Bienmesabe — Dessert made from almonds, honey, egg yolk, and lemon. Sweet and sticky, a Canarian specialty.

Wines: Tenerife has five Denominaciones de Origen (designations of origin) — more than any other Canary Island. The vines often grow on volcanic soil at altitudes of 400–1,500 meters. Especially the Listán Negro red wines (light, fruity) and the Malvasía white wines (aromatic, floral) are excellent. In a Guachinche, a bottle of house wine costs 3–5 €.

Restaurant tips beyond the Guachinches:

• El Rincón de Juan Carlos (Los Gigantes) — Michelin star, creative Canarian cuisine. Menu from 95 €.
• Tasca el Olivo (La Orotava) — Traditional tapas, local wine, warm atmosphere. Tapas from 4 €.
• Cofradía de Pescadores (Puerto de la Cruz) — Fishermen's cooperative with a restaurant right at the harbor. Fresh fish from 10 €.
• La Hierbita (Santa Cruz) — Since 1893, the oldest restaurant in the capital. Canarian classics in a historic setting. Main courses from 12 €.

Garachico was once the most important port of Tenerife — until 1706, when an eruption of the Trevejo volcano buried the town under lava and destroyed the port. Today, Garachico is a sleepy town with a melancholic beauty: magnificent Renaissance palaces remind of its former prosperity, and the natural sea pools (El Caletón) formed by the lava flow are one of the great attractions of the north coast — free swimming in crystal-clear seawater amidst black lava formations.

The Plaza de la Libertad with its old laurel trees, the Castillo de San Miguel (16th century, now a small museum, 2 €), and the Iglesia de Santa Ana form a harmonious ensemble. Garachico is the perfect place for half a day — strolling, swimming, sitting in a bar on the square, and enjoying the tranquility.

Icod de los Vinos is located 15 minutes east and is famous for the Drago Milenario — the "Thousand-Year-Old Dragon Tree." The gnarled tree (actually probably 600–800 years old, not 1,000) is the most photographed plant monument in the Canary Islands: 16 meters high, trunk circumference of 6 meters, and the crown extends over 50 m². You can see it for free from the Plaza Andrés de Lorenzo Cáceres, but the entrance to the surrounding Parque del Drago (5 €) is worth it for close-ups and the beautiful botanical garden.

Wine lovers take note: The Cueva del Viento near Icod is the longest lava cave in Europe and one of the longest in the world (18 km of passages, 200 m accessible). The guided tour through the volcanic tunnels lasts 2 hours and costs 20 €. Advance booking required.