Art & Architecture

César Manrique (1919–1992) is more than an artist — he is the patron saint of Lanzarote, the visionary who saved his island from the fate of concrete tourism that befell Tenerife's south and Gran Canaria's coast.

Born in Arrecife, Manrique studied art in Madrid, lived for four years in New York (1964–1968), where he mingled with Andy Warhol and the pop art scene, and then returned to his island — with a radical vision: art and nature as one, tourism in harmony with the landscape, no high-rises, no billboards, no destruction.

His works on Lanzarote are not museums in the conventional sense — they are inhabitable sculptures that blend into the volcanic landscape as if they were part of it:

• Jameos del Agua: A volcanic cave that Manrique transformed into a surreal cultural center — with an underground lake, tropical garden, concert hall, and the tiny endemic albino crab (Jameito) that lives only here
• Mirador del Río: A viewpoint over the strait between Lanzarote and La Graciosa, built into the rock and almost invisible from the outside — the view is breathtaking
• Fundación César Manrique: Manrique's former residence, built in and over five volcanic bubbles — architecture couldn't be more organic. Now a museum and foundation
• Jardín de Cactus: A cactus garden in a former quarry with over 1,100 cactus species from around the world — his last major work
• César Manrique's Influence on Building Regulations: Thanks to his commitment, strict building regulations still apply on Lanzarote: no buildings over three stories, white houses with green (coast) or brown (inland) window frames, no billboards on roads. Lanzarote is therefore the most architecturally coherent Canary Island

Manrique died in 1992 in a car accident — ironically at an intersection where he had been demanding a traffic light for years. His legacy lives on: The Fundación César Manrique oversees his estate and fights (with diminishing success) against the creeping development of the island.

The historic city centers of the Canaries preserve an architectural heritage that is unparalleled in its completeness and beauty in Spain. Three cities stand out in particular:

San Cristóbal de La Laguna (Tenerife) — UNESCO World Heritage

The former capital of Tenerife (founded in 1496) was built without a city wall — the first non-fortified colonial city in Spain. Its street grid served as a model for city foundations in Latin America (Havana, Lima, Cartagena). The old town is a collection of palaces, churches, and monasteries from the 15th to 18th centuries with colorful facades, courtyards, and the characteristic Canarian balconies. UNESCO World Heritage since 1999.

Vegueta — Old Town of Las Palmas de Gran Canaria

The historic district Vegueta is the founding center of Las Palmas (1478). Around the Cathedral of Santa Ana — a unique mix of Gothic, Renaissance, and Neoclassicism, built over 400 years — are colonial palaces, the Casa de Colón (Columbus Museum, as Columbus stopped here), and winding cobblestone streets. The neighboring district Triana showcases Art Nouveau architecture at its finest.

Santa Cruz de La Palma

The capital of La Palma boasts one of the best-preserved colonial architectures in the entire Canaries. The Avenida Marítima with its continuously glazed wooden balconies and the Plaza de España with the Renaissance church El Salvador are architectural jewels. Particularly charming: The houses on Calle Real with their colorful facades and carved balconies.

Other Architectural Highlights

• Betancuria (Fuerteventura): The first capital of the Canaries (founded in 1404) — a sleepy village with a church, monastery, and stone architecture in the island's interior
• Teguise (Lanzarote): Former capital with the most elegant colonial ensemble of Lanzarote — especially beautiful on Sunday mornings during the market
• Teror (Gran Canaria): Pilgrimage site with perfectly preserved Canarian architecture and the most beautiful balconies on the island

The Balcón canario is the architectural hallmark of the archipelago — and much more than a decorative element. These intricately carved, glazed wooden balconies are a unique heritage that exists nowhere else in Spain or Europe in this form.

The balconies are made from Canarian pine wood (Pino canario — tea), which is particularly resistant to moisture and pests. The construction follows strict rules:

• Closed Glazing: Small glass panes in wooden frames protect against wind and rain but let in light — a winter garden avant la lettre
• Carved Railings: Turned wooden balusters (Balaustres) in geometric patterns — each house has its own design
• Functional Purpose: The glazed balconies serve as additional living space, a greenhouse for plants, and a drying place for laundry
• Social Function: Women could observe street life from here without being seen themselves — a Moorish influence

The most beautiful examples of Canarian balconies can be found:

• La Orotava (Tenerife): The Casa de los Balcones (17th century) is the most famous example — an entire house full of magnificent wooden balconies, now a museum and craft shop
• Santa Cruz de La Palma: The Avenida Marítima showcases the most beautiful continuous row of balconies in the Canaries
• Teror (Gran Canaria): Around the basilica are perfectly preserved houses with colorful balconies
• La Laguna (Tenerife): Throughout the old town — UNESCO-protected

The Lucha Canaria (Canarian wrestling) is the oldest sport in the Canaries and traces directly back to the Guanches. It is not a tourist folklore spectacle but a living, passionately practiced competitive sport with its own league, clubs, and loyal fan base.

The rules:

• Two fighters (Luchadores) face each other in a sand ring (Terrero)
• The goal is to throw the opponent so that he touches the ground with any body part other than his feet
• Punching, kicking, and choking are prohibited — it's about technique, balance, and strength
• A match (Brega) lasts a maximum of three rounds. Teams compete with 12 fighters against each other
• There are over 40 different grip techniques (Mañas) — from the "Pardelera" (leg sweep) to the "Burra" (shoulder grip)

Lucha Canaria is a team sport: Each island has its own league, and the rivalries between the clubs are intense. The season runs from September to May, and the matches take place in the Terreros (fighting arenas) — often covered, with stands and an atmosphere reminiscent of boxing matches.

Especially recommended for visitors: The matches in the Liga Cabildo on Tenerife and Gran Canaria — genuine Canarian sports culture away from the tourist paths. Admission is usually free or very cheap.

The Timple is the national instrument of the Canary Islands — a small, five-string guitar with a distinctive, bright, percussive sound that instantly conjures images of fiestas, romerías, and beach evenings.

The instrument resembles a ukulele but has a rounded back (like a lute) and a shorter neck. Traditionally built from mulberry wood, with a top made of Canarian pine. The Timple has five strings, traditionally all tuned to the same octave — creating the characteristic "twinkling" sound.

The role of the Timple in Canarian culture:

• Folklore: The Timple accompanies traditional songs (Folías, Isas, Malagueñas) and dances at every romería and fiesta
• Parrandas: Spontaneous street music groups that move from bar to bar with Timple, Bandurria (mandolin), and guitar — especially at Christmas and Carnival
• Modern Interpretation: Musicians like Benito Cabrera and Germán López have introduced the Timple into jazz, classical, and world music. Cabrera's album "Mestisay" is a milestone in Canarian music
• Grupo Taburiente: The legendary band from La Palma combines Timple with political lyrics — the "Canarian bards," comparable to the Catalan Nova Cançó artists

If you want to buy a Timple: The Timple workshops in Teguise (Lanzarote) are the most renowned. Antonio Lemes Hernández and his family have been crafting handmade instruments for generations. A good Timple costs between 200 and 800 €. At the Casa-Museo del Timple in Teguise (Lanzarote), you can experience the history of the instrument and see and hear various models.

Silbo Gomero — The Whistling Language

Not a musical instrument, but an acoustic world wonder: The Silbo Gomero is a complete whistling language that allows the inhabitants of La Gomera to communicate across deep ravines — over distances of up to 5 kilometers. The language was developed by the Guanches and transferred to Castilian after the Spanish conquest. Since 2009, Silbo Gomero has been a UNESCO World Heritage and is taught in schools on La Gomera. Some restaurants on La Gomera offer demonstrations — an absolutely unique experience.