🇪🇸
Verstehen · Kapitel 12

Nature & Volcanism

Canary Islands Reiseführer

Übersicht|
VerstehenKapitel 12: Nature & Volcanism
Verstehen · Kapitel 12

Nature & Volcanism

The Canary Islands are a geological marvel — volcanic peaks over 3,700 meters, ancient laurel forests from the Tertiary period, lunar landscapes of cooled lava, and a biodiversity that would have inspired Darwin. Welcome to Europe's most fascinating natural archipelago.

Volcanic Formation — Hotspot in the Atlantic

The Canary Islands owe their existence to a hotspot — an upwelling of hot mantle material from the depths of the Earth, melting through the African plate and pushing volcanoes to the surface. The islands formed over a period of over 20 million years, with the eastern islands being the oldest and the western ones the youngest:

  • Fuerteventura & Lanzarote: ~20 million years old — heavily eroded, flat, desert-like
  • Gran Canaria: ~15 million years — a miniature continent with extreme landscape diversity
  • Tenerife & La Gomera: ~12–8 million years — Tenerife with the highest peak, La Gomera deeply rugged
  • La Palma: ~4 million years — geologically young and very volcanically active
  • El Hierro: ~1.2 million years — the youngest and smallest of the main islands

The Canaries are volcanically active — and this is not a theoretical risk. The last major eruption on mainland Europe occurred here:

  • 1730–1736: On Lanzarote, dozens of volcanoes erupted over six years, burying a third of the island under lava — the Fire Mountains (Montañas del Fuego) in Timanfaya National Park
  • 1971: Teneguía on La Palma — the last "peaceful" eruption, where spectators could watch
  • 2021: The Cumbre Vieja on La Palma erupted on September 19 and spewed lava for 85 days, burying 3,000 buildings and thousands of hectares of banana plantations. The lava flows reached the sea, creating new landmasses. The scars are still clearly visible
  • 2011–2012: A submarine volcanic eruption off El Hierro (Tagoro) made the sea bubble and change color

The volcanic soils are the reason for the extraordinary fertility (bananas, wine, tomatoes) and the spectacular landscapes — from the black sand beaches to the lunar landscape of Teide National Park to the lava caves (Cueva de los Verdes on Lanzarote).

Achtung

The Teide (3,718 m) is an active volcano. The last eruption was in 1909 (Chinyero eruption at the foot). The volcanic monitoring is excellent, but it is an active volcanic system. Respect all barriers and smoke zones in the national park.

Climate Zones & Trade Wind Clouds — Microcontinents

Each of the major Canary Islands is a microcontinent with a range of climate zones that elsewhere are thousands of kilometers apart. The key to this is the trade winds, which push moist air from the northeast against the mountains.

The principle is simple yet spectacular: The moist trade winds from the North Atlantic hit the islands' mountains and are forced to rise. As they rise, the moisture condenses and forms the famous trade wind cloud layer (Mar de Nubes — "Sea of Clouds"), which lies like a lid on the north sides of the high islands at an altitude of 600–1,500 m. The result:

  • North side (windward): Humid, green, cloudy — laurel forests and lush vegetation grow here. Cooler temperatures, more rain
  • South side (leeward): Dry, sunny, desert-like — the tourist centers are located here. Less than 200 mm of rain per year
  • Coast: Subtropical, 18–25 °C year-round, hardly any temperature fluctuation
  • High altitudes (over 2,000 m): On Tenerife (Teide) and La Palma alpine climate — snow can fall in winter

The consequence for travelers: You can lie on the beach in the south at 28 °C, hike through the mystical fog forest in the north, and stand in the snow at 5 °C on Teide on the same day. Layered clothing is a must!

The flat eastern islands (Lanzarote, Fuerteventura) have no mountains to catch the trade wind clouds — hence they are consistently dry, sunny, and windy. Ideal for beach and water sports, less so for hikers.

Tipp

On Tenerife, Gran Canaria, and La Palma, you can experience the sea of clouds from above — the trade wind clouds hang at about 1,000 m altitude, forming an endless white sea beneath you. The best viewpoints: Pico del Inglés (Anaga, Tenerife), Roque Nublo (Gran Canaria), and Mirador de la Cumbrecita (La Palma).

Endemic Flora — Dragon Tree, Canary Pine & Laurel Forest

The plant world of the Canaries is a botanical wonder of the world. Due to isolation in the Atlantic and extreme altitude differences, hundreds of endemic species have developed over millions of years, found nowhere else on Earth.

The Dragon Tree (Drago)

The emblem of the Canaries — a primeval-looking tree with a thick trunk, umbrella-shaped crown, and red resin (the legendary "dragon's blood"), traded since antiquity as a remedy and dye. The Guanches revered the Drago as sacred. The most famous specimen is the Drago Milenario in Icod de los Vinos (Tenerife) — its estimated age varies between 500 and 1,000 years depending on the source. Other impressive dragon trees stand in the Jardín Botánico in Puerto de la Cruz and on La Palma.

The Canary Pine (Pinus canariensis)

A survival artist like no other: The Canary Pine grows on lava soils and at altitudes up to 2,500 m and has a unique ability — it can sprout anew from charred trunks after a forest fire. After the devastating forest fire on Tenerife in 2023, green shoots appeared on blackened trees just months later. Its extremely long needles (up to 30 cm) also comb moisture from the trade wind clouds — so-called "horizontal rain", which soaks the ground under the trees.

The Laurel Forest (Laurisilva)

The most valuable botanical heritage of Europe: The laurel forests (Laurisilva) on La Gomera, Tenerife (Anaga), La Palma, and El Hierro are relics of the subtropical forests that covered all of Southern Europe before the Ice Age. They died out in continental Europe — only in the Canaries (and Madeira and the Azores) did they survive thanks to the even climate. The Garajonay National Park on La Gomera is the largest contiguous laurel forest in the world — UNESCO World Heritage since 1986. Hiking through these moss-covered, mist-shrouded forests feels like a time travel to an era before humans.

Other Botanical Highlights

  • Canary Spurge (Euphorbia canariensis): Cactus-like succulent that grows everywhere in the arid areas
  • Tajinaste (Echium wildpretii): A bright red flower tower up to 3 meters high, growing only on Teide in Tenerife and on La Palma — a breathtaking sight in May/June
  • Siempreviva (Limonium): The "Everlasting" — grows on barren cliffs and symbolizes the resilience of Canarian nature

Tipp

The Jardín Botánico in Puerto de la Cruz (Tenerife), founded in 1788, showcases the entire Canarian and tropical plant world in a small space. For the laurel forest of La Gomera, choose the route through the Garajonay National Park from Alto de Garajonay — here the forest is densest and most magical.

Marine Biology — Whales, Dolphins & Turtles

The waters of the Canaries are among the most species-rich in the North Atlantic. The combination of the cold Canary current, nutrient-rich upwelling areas, and warm ocean water creates a marine ecosystem that is unparalleled worldwide.

Whales & Dolphins

Between Tenerife and La Gomera is one of Europe's most significant whale habitats. Here live year-round:

  • Pilot Whales (Short-finned Pilot Whales): A resident population of over 400 animals permanently inhabits the deep waters between the islands. Sighting rate on boat tours: nearly 100%
  • Bottlenose Dolphins: Regularly play in the bow waves of boats
  • Rough-toothed Dolphins, Spotted Dolphins, Striped Dolphins: Various species depending on the season
  • Sperm Whales: Mainly sighted off La Palma and El Hierro
  • Blue Whales and Fin Whales: Migrants in spring and autumn — rarer, but possible

The Canaries are the only area in Europe where you can observe resident whales year-round. Whale-watching tours start from Los Gigantes, Puerto de Santiago, and Los Cristianos (Tenerife) as well as from Valle Gran Rey (La Gomera).

Sea Turtles

In Canarian waters, mainly Loggerhead Turtles (Caretta caretta) and occasionally Green Sea Turtles are found. The turtle rescue center in Cofete (Fuerteventura) and the breeding station in Mogán (Gran Canaria) care for injured animals and release young ones.

Underwater World

The Canaries are a top diving and snorkeling destination:

  • El Hierro: The marine reserve Mar de las Calmas is the best dive spot in the Canaries — crystal-clear water, rays, barracudas, groupers, and angel sharks
  • Lanzarote: The Museo Atlántico — an underwater museum with over 300 life-sized sculptures by Jason deCaires Taylor at a depth of 12-15 m
  • La Graciosa: Crystal-clear water and untouched dive sites
  • Tenerife: Rays and turtles at Las Galletas, wreck diving at Puerto de la Cruz

Achtung

Choose only certified whale-watching providers with the "Barco Azul" (Blue Boat) certificate from the Canary government. These maintain prescribed minimum distances and limit observation time. Cheap providers disturb the animals massively.

National Parks & Protected Areas

The Canaries have four national parks — more than any other autonomous community in Spain — and almost half of the total area is under some form of nature protection.

Parque Nacional del Teide (Tenerife)

The most visited national park in Europe — and rightly so. The Teide (3,718 m) is not only the highest mountain in Spain but, measured from the sea floor (over 7,500 m), one of the largest volcanoes on Earth. The Caldera de las Cañadas — a gigantic volcanic crater 17 km in diameter — offers an unreal lunar landscape of bizarre rock formations, cooled lava flows, and in spring, the bright red Tajinaste flower towers. UNESCO World Heritage since 2007.

Parque Nacional de Timanfaya (Lanzarote)

The Fire Mountains — a surreal lava landscape, formed during the eruptions of 1730–1736, which buried a third of the island. Just a few centimeters below the surface, temperatures still exceed 400 °C — in the restaurant kitchen of "El Diablo," food is grilled with volcanic geothermal heat. The park is accessible only by bus on the "Ruta de los Volcanes" — a decision that preserves its unique character.

Parque Nacional de Garajonay (La Gomera)

The Laurel Forest National Park — UNESCO World Heritage and one of the most important relics of Europe's Tertiary flora. Moss-covered trees, mystical fog, absolute silence. Here grows what covered all of Southern Europe before the Ice Age.

Parque Nacional de la Caldera de Taburiente (La Palma)

A vast erosion crater (not a volcanic crater, as long assumed) 10 km in diameter and up to 2,000 m deep. Pine forests, waterfalls, hiking trails through one of the most spectacular landscapes of the Canaries. The night sky over La Palma is protected by law — the Observatorio del Roque de los Muchachos on the crater rim is one of the most important observatories in the world.

Other Protected Areas

  • Biosphere Reserves: La Palma, Lanzarote, El Hierro, Fuerteventura, and Gran Canaria are (partially or entirely) UNESCO Biosphere Reserves
  • Anaga Mountains (Tenerife): Biosphere Reserve with ancient laurel forest and the most remote villages of the island
  • Dunes of Maspalomas (Gran Canaria): Nature reserve — a 400-hectare dune field that looks like a piece of the Sahara

Environmental Protection & Sustainability

The Canaries face a paradox: Their spectacular nature is the main reason why 16 million tourists come annually — and this very tourism threatens the delicate ecosystem.

Water Scarcity

Water is the most precious resource of the Canaries. The eastern islands (Lanzarote, Fuerteventura) are extremely dry — almost all drinking water here comes from seawater desalination plants. Massive desalination also occurs on Tenerife and Gran Canaria. The energy expenditure for this is enormous. Every hotel pool, every irrigated golf course exacerbates the problem.

El Hierro — A Model for the World

The smallest Canary Island takes a different path: With the wind-hydro hybrid "Gorona del Viento", El Hierro temporarily produces 100% of its electricity from renewable sources — a model studied worldwide. The island was declared a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 2000 and consistently focuses on gentle tourism.

What You Can Do as a Traveler

  • Save water: Take short showers, reuse towels — it sounds trivial, but it makes a real difference in the Canaries
  • Respect hiking trails: Do not go cross-country — the volcanic vegetation takes decades to regenerate. A single step can destroy a lichen that took 50 years to grow
  • Leave no litter: Especially on beaches and in the mountains. Cigarette butts are a massive problem
  • Buy local products: Canarian bananas instead of imported ones, local cheese and wine instead of supermarket goods — this strengthens sustainable agriculture
  • Sunscreen: Use reef-friendly sunscreen — conventional creams harm the underwater world

Tipp

El Hierro is the perfect destination for ecotourism: 100% renewable energy, excellent diving, solitary hiking trails, and an atmosphere reminiscent of the larger islands 50 years ago. Arrival by ferry from Tenerife (2.5 hours) or Binter flight.

War dieses Kapitel hilfreich?